If I removed one or both half shafts and tried to drive with RWD only, would a 1st gen 4x4 be a safe configuration?
If not, is it safe to remove the front drive shaft?
Why, because I want the front suspension of a 4x4 with the drivetrain of a RWD. Don't ask, it's complicated...
If I"m not mistaken the half shafts just slide through the hub. If so then you can remove them with no consequences. Most newer trucks use the same 2wd and 4wd front hubs one just has a half shaft through it. The diff and prop shaft can then be removed and if you're going that far swap to a 2wd tail shaft and driveshaft can be swapped.
I think the gear ratios in the differential might be different between 2wd and 4wd also.
It depends on the year and tranny if they are different axle ratios. But if you are using the same tranny and just swapping tailshaft for the transfer case, then it doesn't matter as the speedo gear still matches the rear axle ratio. If you are trying to get more lift on the front end by cranking up the torsions and pulling the front diff and axles to cut weight for a prerunner look, it won't be enough of a difference for the work involved.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Not interested in "looks". Need a strong front suspension that can survive brutal daily dirt road abuse and not fall apart every 6 months like the 2wd front suspension does. I'd go straight axle front if I could find any toyo axles but they're unobtainium as well.
If you pull the half shafts nothing should happen. All the bearings and other parts are held in place by the retaining nut on the out side. Now if the inside hubs will fall out of the dif, I don't know.
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I know it's been a while since anyone posted in the forum, but I just wanted to get clarification because I was thinking about doing something similar with my truck.
Can I remove the front driveshaft, differential, and half shafts with no issues?
I ask because to do the engine swap I want to do I would have to go to a car transmission and a divorced transfer case to keep 4wd and if I just make it 2wd instead it's cheaper, easier, and one less thing to break.
What kind of swap are looking at doing a SAS.
I don't want SAS because I prefer high speed desert and sand for my off roading where IFS is better, I'm going to be doing a 440 swap and to do that with these trucks you need the car transmission and a t-case to keep 4wd, I'm just going to give up 4whd because it's not as important with what I want to do.
You looking at just keeping the t-case around to get say a 2 low, are you going to keep stock rear end, if not you could portal box it and or under drive it dump the t-case.
Last edited by mopar_ja; 07-02-2013 at 07:01 PM.
I'm looking at no t-case and stock rear end depending on how much power it can handle, like I said I'm more interested in the high speed stuff and I'll have a 440 big block in a 3000 pound truck, so low range won't be needed
hmm 440 and a Mitsubishi rearend? something sounds out of balance. I like the 440 idea a lot better then a stock rearend. You'll probably get away with it for a while. I saw a video with a V8 in a truck with a stock rearend and he was ripping the tires pretty good on the video. Though I don't think he had a 440 sitting in it. Make sure you secure the rearend from twisting though or put some skinny tires on the truck so it doesn't get great traction to break parts quickly.
I'm planning on an upgrade, but if I can get away with the stock rear end for a while I won't have to be in as much of a hurry to figure out a new rear end. I want to put some meaty tires on the back because with all that extra weight up front I think it would make the truck tail happy especially in the rain and wider tires would help that a bit. Any thoughts?
Mods to a 4wd Mitsu needed for 2wd conversion would include removing the front axle and drive assemblies, fabbing a SYE kit for the front output on the t-case unless you use a 2wd transmission, using later model Montero drive flanges to replace the 4wd hubs, and fitting something like a freeze plug on the rear side of the steering knuckle to seal it. There are no long travel pieces off the shelf for Mitsus.
Have you considered off-to-the-wrecking yard to get some full-size Bronco or F150 TTB stuff and using a driver side drop NP t-case? Also, Fab-Tech sells equal length TTB stuff for the 2wd trucks. All of this would not be out of line with a 440 Chrysler conversion. What rear axle are you considering?
I was going to go with a Dana 60 in the rear because of the power of the 440 and the Dana 60 is pretty much bullet proof. I will be using a 2wd tranny so no worries on the t-case.
So what I'm getting from your post is I need to take out all front drive parts, replace the front hubs and seal the steering knuckle? If that's all I would have to do I think converting to 2wd would be easier and significantly cheaper than keeping 4wd with the swap because I won't need to find a t-case or upgrade the front diff to handle the power as well as only needing one custom driveshaft instead of two.
Correct, on front suspension. Now for fun part if you plan on keeping front end stock the shear weight of 440 will collapse the puny torsion bars to point where you will have little to no travel, that is if you put it in the engine bay, now if you go say mid engine or even backwards and run a V-drive that would be cool.
I would consider the mid engine idea and the v-drive sounds pretty cool and unique, but I want to keep some practicality and to do either of those I would need to get rid of the bed. What I want to try to do is figure out a way to convert the front suspension from the torsion bars to coil springs and get some stiffer springs to get some of the front end height back. Another option to try to even the weight out a bit and offset that giant block of metal I'll be putting in the front that I'm considering is doing a rear transaxle like the Porsche 944. The only problem I see with that is finding one that will hold the power and finding a way to make it fit.
Mustang II IFS weld in kit. then you can get the spring rate you want. If I works in a Model A with a Blown 392 Hemi it should work for you.
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