Could be the diaphragm is stretched. Also the FPR's can be a bit 'iffy' when it comes to actually doing it's job. I've heard of a few of them having problems with the spring in them (?)Originally Posted by maxdsm
Try changing it back to the factory setting - setting the timing with the Weber is trial and error. It'll pull more vacuum than the Mikuni and as a consequence will try to over advance timing.
I took it apart and that's exactly what happen to the diaphragm . Thanks geezer. Will be ordering a new one.
#31. Maybe I shouldn't stomp the crap Out the gas peddle and that might not happen.unless I had it set up for to much fuel and that did it before I made adjustments
The mechanical fuel pump + Holley FPR will cause you grief. It's inevitable. Change to an electric pump and it will go a long way to sorting your Weber install out. Been giving this a bit of thought and was wondering if installing a one way check valve in the fuel line post pump would be beneficial? I may need this if I go ahead with my loopy twin fuel tank set up...
I had a facet electric pump that had a built in check valve on the outlet of the pump years ago. The issue is, the check valve requires pressure to open it, so it will drop the pressure slightly, depending on the pressure rating of the check. A 1/2 lb check would be the one to use, if you can find one.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Thanks pennymanso...if I put the check valve before the pump, could it cause potential issues with fuel pick up? I want to make the twin tank delivery system as simple as possible - no solenoids, 2 separate pumps with check valves and a joiner to bridge them into a single line for the carb. Yes, there will be a manual control switch to flip between tanks (before anyone asks lol)
has to be after the pump - the pump does not have enough suction to open the check. The external electric pumps are gravity feed.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Webern are know for the dieselling. You can buy an idle cut off which will deal with this issue.
Webers are known for the dieselling. You can buy an idle cut off which will deal with this issue.
only for some of the webers they don't make one for mine 32/36 dgev
.
Picked up a used wideband LC-1 to help tune the Weber . Within the factory settings at idle it's in the high 15's. Stepping up to larger jets.
I believe this is gonna be my next step.
Any suggestions on where to order weber part? I've used allstate a couple time so far. I've seen LCE performance and I think carburetation.com just wondering if there are any more?
A list of genuine Weber retailers and suppliers - note the webercarbsdirect in the middle of it as being the crap copy seller to avoid.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post27961
the idle cutoff solenoid is only for the DFAV webers.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
your 1000% right i found out the hard way
This is my first post and I am having trouble. The truck just cranks but won't start after installing the weber carb.
Background:
Removed engine and trans to replace rear main seal. When I placed the motor back in I replace the alternator, water pump, radiator, spark plug wires, rotor and rotor cap.
Upgrades:
Pace setter headers
Weber carb
After hooking everything up and refilling all fluids, I turned the key and it was going to start. I waited for about 5 min and now it just cranks but wont start. Carb is getting fuel, tested the spark with a screwdriver, tested secondary for the coil. Vacuum system has been removed except the line for vac advance from the distributor. I am all out of ideas and could use some help. I attached pictures if that helps. This is my first time doing this so maybe there is something I am missing or not seeing.
20181230_170448.jpg20181230_170459.jpg20181230_170505.jpg
If you didn't put a fuel pressure regulator in and you are using the OEM fuel pump it might be possible that you are flooding the motor. I think the OEM pump puts out around 8 psi and the Weber only wants 3. It may be overpowering the float and pouring fuel into the throttle body. Try holding the choke plate open with a screwdriver and depress the pedal some then try starting it again. If you have to keep your foot on the accelerator to keep it running chances are it's too rich and you will need a fuel pressure regulator.
You may have a bigger problem - is it a legit Weber carb? If it's a 'licensed copy' (read as 'bad knock-off) you will never get this thing to run right. Tips on installing a Weber carb - used a high volume, low pressure electric pump (don't try to regulate the mechanical factory pump as it will eventually kill it) and ensure it's a genuine unit. Plug the coolant port under the carb to eliminate possible coolant bypass issues as well.
pacheco2189,
Have you tried starting it after a shot of starting fluid down the carb throat? If it starts and runs for a moment, that reduces the chance the problem is electrical. There may be air in the fuel lines that the fuel pump can't overcome at cranking speed. A couple of starting fluid starts might be enough to get fuel flowing properly if that's the problem. I used to have a Weber and I had to use starting fluid to get the truck running if it sat for more than 3-4 days.
When I got it all together, I sprayed carb cleaner in the carb and that is when and only when it wanted to start. I will try the fuel pressure idea and let you guys know the outcome. I also need to plug the coolant as well. Thank you
So I tried keeping the choke plate open and it still cranks but does not start. I know I still need to fix the psi problem but does that mean the floating is not the problem? Could it be electrical and if so.. what?
Carb cleaner is flammable but it still might be too wet. Get a starting fluid which is extremely combustible (ethyl-ether). Spray a shot of it into the carb and see if it starts and runs 2-3 seconds. If it still won’t start, remove the plugs. Note if the plugs are very wet or fouled. Dry, clean and gap each plug. Check that each plug is getting current and fires with a bright arc. If the plugs spark as expected, install the plugs and wires. Double check the plug wires at the cap to be sure the firing order is correct. If you didn’t remove or move the distributor earlier and everything checks out fine to this point, try another shot of starting fluid. Then crank it over with the throttle open slightly. It should start and run for a few seconds.
...and you may need to trial and error your distributor timing. The Weber is a vacuum beast and may be trying to over advance your timing. A DIY tip for one man ignition timing. Get a length of wire long enough to reach from your starter solenoid to your battery without risk of it getting caught up in any moving parts, crimp a female spade connector onto one end, unplug the starter wire and connect your bypass wire to the starter solenoid. There - you have a remote starter lead! With the ignition in the on position, all you need to do to start the engine is touch the other end of your wire to the positive terminal and it'll kick over. You'll be able to adjust the distributor until you get it to fire and to kill the engine, just pull the main plug lead from the coil.
So I tried the starter fluid and the timing. Still the same. I was doing some other testing and noticed the spark seems weak. Could that be a problem and if so, what could cause it? Also, I know the vacuum system is obsolete but from looking at wiring diagrams the gray control box on the drivers side has like 2 ignition wires that hook into it. Do I need to have that hooked up?
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks