I got pretty much the same malarky from the place on eBay where I got mine also.
I got pretty much the same malarky from the place on eBay where I got mine also.
Take a look at this kit - its an old linkage adaptor set on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weber-carbur...9ea959&vxp=mtr or this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Redline-Webe...5d2357&vxp=mtr
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
I am surprised redline didn't have a better answer for this problem. Sometimes creating your own piece to fit the carb for the kick down could work or modify the old carb's piece to fit the weber if it's available. Seems frustrating when the manufacturer is sort of brushing you off. Keep us posted.
The linkage I made works perfectly. The pics are on page 4 of this thread. All you need is a bit of 12 gauge mild steel and a few tools. I made the tricky piece out of cereal box cardboard first using the Weber linkage to hold it against to figure out where to bend it.Then I used the Mikuni linkage as a reference for the throttle shaft hole and cable hole positions. This is necessary to keep the relationship between the accelerator and the shift cable the same. If the correct distance between these holes is not maintained the tranny will not shift or kick down properly. I made a few cardboard pieces before getting one that I liked. From start to finish I think it took me about 4 hours. I had to keep walking back and forth from the truck to the vise when filing out the hole for the throttle shaft.
Not everyone has your skills or the tools to do what you did, it is a fine piece of work. I understand that it is also not something you can do and make a lot of money at it. We just need someone with a 3d printer to scan it and then it could be printed out whenever one is needed. Not likely in this economy though...
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
I think that anyone who can do this carb swap would understand the principle. You are probably right in that not everyone would have the tools to make those two pieces. Perhaps, if one were to take a cardboard model of the pieces to a high school metalworking shop, someone there would be willing to help. I would think they are always looking for something new and challenging to do. The cost would probably be minimal as well.
Do you still have the cardboard template and indications where to bend the metal?
I believe it is in my toolbox at work. I could trace it, dimension it, scan it, and post it here if you think it will help.
that would be great if you could do that - it will help anyone doing a weber on an auto tranny truck.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Here is the tricky piece.
IMG.jpg
For the straight piece, I just measured from the cable hole to the hole in tricky piece, and added about 1/2". So long as it's not too short there is lots of adjustment in the adjuster on the manifold. There is on my '88 that is. I used a #10 machine screw with jam nuts to join the two pieces.
Nice work Andy, I may make a request for a kick down on my Tbird, lol. Glad to see it posted here, definitely should help someone. Keep it in your Gallery for quick locating.
I do like the pictures for the DIY kickdown linkage... I personally have no issues building one. I see his carb has the throttle fitting on the firewall side of the carb... Mine is on the radiator side of the carb. I think ill need to fab some sort of bell crank. Just not sure how much movement is needed as I never had the factory set up in place.
Sounds like you have the carb made for the manual tranny. Being as the cable is connected to the throttle shaft you will need to be able to pull the cable from any throttle position to cause the tranny to kick down at any speed. The tension setting at zero throttle determines when the tranny will shift under normal acceleration. Too tight and the tranny shifts gears at higher speeds and vise versa.
Here's a page from my Haynes manual.
IMG.jpg
I just got a 32/36 DFEV carb kit #K-614 used and I need to find the installation instructions for it. Also need to find a fuel pump block-off plate.
Mr. Gasket 1516 works for a fuel pump block off plate drilling out the holes slightly.
This might help you...http://nebula.wsimg.com/a04c1c5ad703...&alloworigin=1
As for a block off plate,if you want to make your own, you can use the plastic spacer for the fuel pump as a template, and cut a piece of metal the same shape with the same holes. I used 304 stainless steel about 1/8" thick.
I made a block-off plate for the fuel pump. It was not to hard. Used the plastic spacer as Andy 2 said and done.
Thanks for the guide. It was what I was looking for to make sure that I did not miss anything. I am going to have to make a mod to hookup the kick down cable for my automatic transmission also, wish me luck.
Ram50Man wrote..."i found a guy that is willing to swap carb for carb plus $50. Not sure what kinda weber it is though, my thought is any weber has to be better than the factory Mikuni garbage though, right?"
I found 2 Weber conversion kits that come with 32/36 carbs for our trucks. The K614 carb is a DFEV and its throttle rotates clockwise. It is most like the Mikuni when mounted with the throttle control toward the firewall. It is said to be for the auto trans trucks and the throttle cable lines up above the kickdown cable. There is, however, no linkage piece to connect the kickdown cable which seems silly. I know this kit will work on 2nd gen. trucks with manual trans as well with no linkage issues.
The K610 carb is somewhat the reverse of the K614. It is a DGEV carb and its throttle rotates counter clockwise. If this carb was mounted with the throttle toward the firewall, the throttle cable would have to pull away from the engine, and the choke would be on the engine side of the carb. It mounts with the cable control toward the front of the truck. This kit does not come with the Mikuni style cable attachment piece (the 1/4 circle with the hole for the cable end). I got this one for the 4x4 which is a 5 speed and had to trim and weld my Mikuni cable attachment to the Webers. Both carbs are 32/36, and both have electric choke, but they are not the same carb. If you don't want to have issues with the cable attachment, I would try and get the right Weber.
For those people who were told an auto kickdown bracket doesn't exist - look above the exhaust plugs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chrysler-Maz...item5d4d4ceba5 . The kit is from Redline to boot!
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
That kit comes with a carb too!Originally Posted by pennyman1
But the adaptor for the kickdown does exist as a weber part.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
I'd like to know if anyone has gotten that kickdown linkage to work without needing extra parts.
Ok so i recently installed a weber on my truck i have two questions... i have two large bolts idk what they are for and my next question its running too rich ive adjusted the carb to run when i first turn on my truck but it makes it run rich i believe the idle should be higher while warming up but is not how do i fix this and how do i get my maintenance required light to turn off?
My kits came with two large "bolts" also. I believe they are plugs for the exhaust manifold where the reed valve pipe threads in. Those Weber kits come with parts for both 2.6L and 2.0L engines. If you take the reed valve off you will need one of them to screw back into the manifold.
If you look at the instructions that came with the kit, you will see a section called Carburetor Adjustments on page 5. If you don't have them any more look here...http://nebula.wsimg.com/a04c1c5ad703...&alloworigin=1
I didn't know there was a maintenance light on these carbureted trucks. lol . Its probably for the emissions system, EGR and O2 sensor service. You won't be using those now that you have installed the Weber. I would take the instrument panel out and remove the light bulb so you never have to see it again.
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