Weber 32/36

[crashman911]

What kind of HP improvement comes with the weber 32/36 on a stock 87 dodge ram 50 2.0

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[Uneek98]

Will the weber adapter plates from g63b work on a g52b?

[camoit]

Will the weber adapter plates from g63b work on a g52b?

I beleve they will. It uses the same carb it's just a 2.0 VS 2.6.

[Uneek98]

I beleve they will. It uses the same carb it's just a 2.0 VS 2.6.

Thanks

[pennyman1]

they will fit - the adaptor is made to cover any of the mitsu based motors

[Uneek98]

Awesome thanks.

[Law Dog]

What MPG are some of you guys getting? I'm getting a little over 13 MPG with my stock carb what can I expect from a Spanish Weber carb set-up? 2.6 5 speed in mine.

[pennyman1]

much better than 13 mpg - I get 25mpg with Geronimo running at 80 - 85, but I also have a header and a custom 2.25 inch flowmaster exhaust with the proper jetting

[Law Dog]

Heck if I got 18 I'd be thrilled 25MPG would be euphoric!

Thanks Jerry

[noahwins]

I'm a little confused about the return line on the 32/36. I don't see this green arrow connection on my Weber. I guess mine wasn't a "California" model. I see there are the two inlets at a 30* angle for fuel, so you can get fuel no matter how you orient the carb. My question is since I don't have this return line provision, could I use the 2nd, plugged up inlet as a return line? Or would that create a fuel "short circuit" and bleed off fuel meant for the bowl?

DGV-connections.jpg

I also see that the bowl vent is sealed off on mine. So I can drill and NPT tap this, attach a fitting and send the line to the charcoal canister?

I'm doing all of this because the Chinese fake Weber I bought perpetually stunk of gas, had random weeping gas leaks and I want to do it the right way this time. Also concerned about vapor lock and drivability issues. I just want this thing vented and sealed 100%.

BTW, this is a great, very thorough article on Weber 32/36 I found:

http://datsun1200.com/modules/mediaw.../36_Carburetorhttp://datsun1200.com/modules/mediaw.../36_Carburetor

[pennyman1]

Don't use the opposite fitting for the return, it will send all the fuel to the tank. Don't need the bowl vent either, unless you want the emissions look. Besides, if you look at the top of the carb, the bowl is vented to the air through the hole in front of the carb throat between the bores.

[noahwins]

I'm going off this guy, who runs a business modifying these carbs for crawler applications:

http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content/top...9de8#msg761158

On the DGV series Weber the vacuum advance port is the one nearest the float bowl, 3/16" diameter hose. On the Sami, you'll need a 3/16"x1/8" adapter so the line fits properly at the distributor . Keep the 3/16" section of hose fairly short, this will keep the signal speed consistent .

If you have an emissions equipped Weber the EGR port will have a small screw plug in the end of the brass port . To use the EGR you will have to retain the oem EGR controller and wiring off the stock intake , just substitute the Weber in place of the Hitachi . Be aware that most of the EGR valves are not operational due to carbon buildup in the intake and head ports , they must be cleaned as well as the valve itself , not a fun job .

Electric pump installations work well with these carbs but pressure against the pump and excessive pressure at the carb is also a problem . If the carb has both inlet ports tapped it's pretty simple-

The stock lines on the frame rail are 8mm/ 5/16", put a good quality fuel filter (paper element only) a few inches away from the carb .

Remove the second inlet port plug on the carb and it's aluminum gasket washer . The hole is 1/8-28BSP but a 1/8" NPT fitting will work ok . Buy a 1/8"NPTx3/16" clamp style rigid male brass fitting at your local parts store , any store that supplies brass made by Edelmann will have them available . Route this 3/16" line back down to the frame rail to the return line , on most Sami's it's the middle one .

If the carb is not equipped with a second tapped inlet port then you must use the CJ/Fram filter with a built-in bypass .

Make sure to mount the fuel pump reasonably low in relation to the tank, this helps with priming and makes the pump last longer .

The use of a return line does two things-cool the pump and allow a much lower pressure at the carb .

The vapor return line from the canister plugs either into the port directly below the carb or one of the pair just ahead of the carb .

Here's a link to the brass fitting for return lines mounted directly on the carb-
http://www.plews-edelmann.com/brochu...cation_id=2516
Part #820230

Sarge

He says the smaller 3/8 outlet creates enough backpressure to keep it at about 3 psi.

For the charcoal canister, you can drill 4 small holes in the inlet directly over the bowl and attach a fitting and run it to the canister.

[noahwins]

Wouldn't venting to the atmosphere waste gas (and money), make the engine bay smell like fumes and be bad for the environment? I'd rather have a sealed system so the vapor can be re-used. Plus if there's no raw fuel smell, if you smelled raw fuel you'd know something was wrong, instead of it smelling like that all the time. There's no real performance loss on a truck like this by using a canister.

[Law Dog]

Just picked up a K610 32/36 it looks like it's between the K614 32/36 and the K610-38 performance wise?

[Uneek98]

What upgrades warrant a weber 38?

[Law Dog]

Got the carb on no problem just wondering what vacuum lines I can remove, is the computer mute now also? My vacuum advance comes off a tree on the exhaust manifold and there is a place on the carb base to hook that too so what place is better? So all the water sensors with vacuum lines can be discarded also as long as the source is capped off?
Looks like the distributor advance and the brake booster lines are the only vacuum lines that need to be hooked up then.

Let me know if this sounds right or not please.

[pennyman1]

those are the only 2 vacuum lines you need - the computer is no longer needed, and the egr will stay shut without the vacuum opening it when the motor is at operating temp. Use the vacuum line above the throttle plate - it is ported vacuum and is meant to operate the vac advance of the distributor.

[BradMph]

What upgrades warrant a weber 38?

The 38 is 2 mm bigger for more air and overall city driving would probably not be your normal driving routine. They have more torque with the sync linkage verses the progressive. Headers, no cat, shorter exhaust maybe a rebuild with oversized parts to move more air. If I had the choice, I would just get the newer Weber 40 downdraft instead of the 38 and get a couple more millimeters to play with.

[Law Dog]

Says I need a "keyed" power source for the choke, will the coil fuse link work? It is key powered and close to the carb.


Update: That porcelain fuselink next to coil worked sweet for the electric choke power source, I drove it and there was not much of a change until I adjusted the timing then she would scoot better.

Instructions need to be upgraded! IMO Just figured out where the vent elbow goes only because it was in an accessory photo! LOL

[RamRock50]

Hi everyone,

I recently got me one of these new weber carbs (from Spain - after I asked for a refund, but more on that later) and have finished cleaning up the intake manifold after taking off the old carb. However, there are two things about the manifold conversion kit that do concern me a bit:

1. From the manifold, there seems to be an area that has coolant running through it. With the conversion kit, there is no place for this coolant to run through - it will get completely cut off. Is that supposed to happen?
2. The first part of the manifold conversion kit does not have a big enough area in the middle for both intake manifold holes. A bit of both of them get covered up on the sides. I am wondering if the conversion kit I got is the correct one.

Pic for question 1:
Manifold coolant.jpg

Pic for question 2:
Manifold with adapter.jpg

[geezer101]

That coolant gallery in your first pic is the return port for the auto choke on a standard Mikuni carb and is not needed for the Weber conversion. And it is usually the case that the adapters overhang the ports on the manifold (grab yourself a die grind or hand file it and match up the adapter base to the ports as it will improve flow. Also make sure the walls of the inner plenum throat are sanded nice and smooth to finish it off) The adapters appear to have been designed for use on the older all alloy Mikuni/Solex carbies, and as such the ports are smaller on those manifolds.

[RamRock50]

Thank you for your help, geezer! I won't be able to open up the adapter's throat myself, but I know some people who might be able to take care of that for me.

[pennyman1]

If you are worried about the coolant port under the adaptor plate, tap the hole and screw in an allen setscrew coated with pipe dope to seal it. I did that to Geronimo 31 years ago, and he has never leaked a drop of antifreeze from that port.

[geezer101]

Thank you for your help, geezer! I won't be able to open up the adapter's throat myself, but I know some people who might be able to take care of that for me.

Yeah, you can handle that! Don't even need a die grinder tool - a carbide tip or a stone on a power drill will make short work of that adapter. The alloy is relatively soft and you are only taking off the thin trailing edge of the overhang leading into the plenum ports. Clean it up afterwards with some wet and dry and job's done! You could even go a little nuts on it and try polishing it up for good measure. And please - give that filthy inlet manifold of yours a good clean first with non-caustic oven cleaner and an old tooth brush, it will come up factory fresh.

[thehive]

i think he's talking about popping the space out between the two holes to open it up more.

like this