Weber 32/36

[Pooklord]

I got the carb installed with the throttle and choke working well. The Boomerang plate works just fine although it does stretch the throttle cable casing a bit.

I believe I just need to find the right hoses to hook up to the one fuel inlet on the back of the carb nearest the firewall to a inlet on the fuel pump.
There are two other connections on the fuel pump and I assume one must go back to the fuel tank, I don't know what the 3rd connection would be to.
There are plenty of pics of that model fuel pump on the web but none which show the hose connections!

If anyone has a link to such a pic, I would love to see it. Once I get everything up and running properly I will post pics of the connections.

[Andy 2]

If you check the Wiki tab at the top of this page then click on fuel management there is a diagram of a fuel pump with the connections labelled.

[Pooklord]

Thanks Andy--I got it running last night. MUCH smoother idle, even when cold! Very happy with results. I will take more pics and post them.

[bluebandit]

Finished installing my weber 32/36 last night. Set all Idle screws to baseline settings per Redline paperwork and fired it up. It started immediately but started ramping up the RPMs until it was almost max and I killed it. Checked throttle linkage, reset baseline screws, and fired up again and same thing shot straight up to max RPM. Any Ideas?

[Andy 2]

I would back the idle speed screw right off and then check the throttle cable to be sure it is allowing the throttle to close all the way. If the idle speed screw is set up without the throttle plates being completely closed to start with, the motor will rev too high as the choke opens. I would also check the fast idle screw adjustment.

[bluebandit]

Thanks Andy 2, I will adjust it out and update later

[jamesw]

does your have the elec choke?
is it stuck?
if you have the elec choke try unhooking the wire and see if that makes a difference.
if you can take a few pics of your install maybe someone will see whats (if any thing) is out of place.

[bluebandit]

Thanks for the input jamesw. I removed the throttle linkage completely and brought the fast idle screw out a bit. Started it back up and it seemed to be idling a smidge lower but it wasn't until I hit the throttle bracket that it settled down to a low/soft idle. Sounded smooth as butter and everything seems to be running fine, no leaks, etc. I let it run at idle for about 20min and everything stayed steady. Been reading up on this Fast Idle setting that happens when you hit the gas prior to cranking and it opens the flow so I can warm up faster. I think that's what happen the first time or two because I was used to giving it gas to start with the mikuni. Without pushing the gas it starts and idles fine. The throttle cable may have also been pulling on it to much so I need to adjust that out as well.

Edit: Pics of the whole install in my galleries if anyone gets curious.

[jamesw]

glad to hear you got it figured out i went out this morning fired mine up and suddenly i was hearing a high pitch whistle i,m like what the heck?
so i started doing the listen close thing pressing here pressing there and all of a sudden i found it grrrrrrrrrrrrrrr my carb was lose as a goose the set screws that hold the plate to the intake and backed off some how so after taking everything off and finding the screws lose i may have made a big boo boo hope not but i put some lock tight on the set screws and torched them down as for the second adapter plate i left them alone just tighten them down good and snug .
got the carb back on adjust the idle and the little ole girl is back up and going good again.
i was starting to think that after reading your post with your problems that maybe it migrated over to mine lmao
another thing while i was putting the carb back on was something i noticed the little rod that comes from the choke to the throttle was real close and hanging when ever you really got on the gas .
i took a pair of needle nose pliers and bent it over so that it has some clearance.
also notice mt fancy kick down link cable lol
hay it works great
hanging.jpg

[Kerrigan]

Did you use the existing mechanical pump off the head?

Just did a DGEV on my 2.6 5-speed... cant believe i waited so long... Its 99% better now than the "rebuilt" OEM pile... Now if i can just fix my "stuck" brakelights !

[Kerrigan]

What is the difference between the REDLINE and the Weber Direct carbs? I have one of the older ones, a Weber ... any problems with these on a 1980 2.6ltr?

I swear Weber had a 36/36 progressive that would fit on our trucks..now I can't find it. If you can, and want a bit more "oomph' without the gas-sucking of the 38/38 Synchro...buy one.

I know with both Redline and Weber Carbs Direct, if you specify your make/model, you will usually get the appropriate adapters as well as mounting plates (conversion kit).

[Kerrigan]

If the little rubber bumper is missing replace it otherwise the plunger will slip into the hole and the brake light then stays on all the time.

Its the brakelight switch at the top of the pedal - just unscrews and unplugs. About $20 - its used on many different cars and trucks of the era. Don't bother getting a used one; it is just as old and ready to fail.

[Jacepaul]

I'm still going through all the posts but just pulled my intake/carb off (87 2.0 auto)... dear lord that's a mess!!! researching all the info for the swap lol

[geezer101]

What is the difference between the REDLINE and the Weber Direct carbs? I have one of the older ones, a Weber ... any problems with these on a 1980 2.6ltr?

The Redline is a genuine Spanish made Weber carb - Weber Carbs Direct sells a chinese version that has an internal fuel metering system that can't be altered due to poor design and quality castings/machining. They are impossible to tune and cause the rich/lean fuel problems that can be tuned out of a genuine Weber. This has been extensively covered here on MightyRam due to the large number of people who have been burned by the copycat carbs sold by WCD - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...carb-Becareful!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Kerrigan]

Would a Weber made 10 years ago be the "good one" or the junk?

The Redline is a genuine Spanish made Weber carb - Weber Carbs Direct sells a chinese version that has an internal fuel metering system that can't be altered due to poor design and quality castings/machining. They are impossible to tune and cause the rich/lean fuel problems that can be tuned out of a genuine Weber. This has been extensively covered here on MightyRam due to the large number of people who have been burned by the copycat carbs sold by WCD - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...carb-Becareful!!!!!!!!!!!!

[geezer101]

If the body and diaphragm covers etc have the 'Weber' logo and name cast into the metal then you can be assured it'll be the genuine deal. The copies have stickers and dye printing on them.

[Kerrigan]

Has the white choke housing instead of the black, the white is supposed to only be on the good ones.

I'll look for stickers and dye-printing to be sure.

Just need block off plates now ... and it looks like those are not common.

If the body and diaphragm covers etc have the 'Weber' logo and name cast into the metal then you can be assured it'll be the genuine deal. The copies have stickers and dye printing on them.

[80d50]

I am not starting a new thread because I feel like the answers to this are relevant to the topic. I did not find my answer in the thread however(hope I didnt miss it)

So i installed the 32/36. I used the fender mounted original fuel filter with the 3 ports. I ran one to return and one to the carb. Started it up and it ran fine then i noticed a few drops of fuel coming from the stock pump but I had to pick up a dresser so i went anyways.

I had read prior to getting the weber (after i sent the fake back to webercarbsdirect) that you have to install an electric pump and regulator.
My questions are,
1. what is the stock fuel pump pressure supposed to be?

2. Do you have to install electric + regulator?

3. If i replace with manual pump will it mess up the carb over time?

I drove the truck with the slow drip about 20 miles round trip without issue. I realize I need to replace the leaking pump, but as I asked above, is it necessary to run an electric and regulator?

Thanks for your time.

[geezer101]

The Weber requires a lower fuel pressure than the Mikuni to operate. High fuel pressure will cause flooding and affect how the truck runs. If I recall correctly the mechanical pump runs 6-9 psi of fuel pressure and the max needed for the Weber is 3-5 psi. The fender mounted "fuel filter" is a recirculation cannister - you should notice an inline fuel filter before the mechanical fuel pump. Now the recirculation cannister may very well be enough to drop fuel supply to the carb to overcome the potential high pressure issue. If it's running right and the only problem you have is a leaking mechanical pump (which is a bad problem to start off with) I'd have a tendency to think you may not need to go electric with a regulator.

*side note - if your recirculation cannister is a metal one, be warned. They have the potential to rust out. There are plastic cased units but I think it's going to be a scrounge through a JY to find one...

[80d50]

The Weber requires a lower fuel pressure than the Mikuni to operate. High fuel pressure will cause flooding and affect how the truck runs. If I recall correctly the mechanical pump runs 6-9 psi of fuel pressure and the max needed for the Weber is 3-5 psi. The fender mounted "fuel filter" is a recirculation cannister - you should notice an inline fuel filter before the mechanical fuel pump. Now the recirculation cannister may very well be enough to drop fuel supply to the carb to overcome the potential high pressure issue. If it's running right and the only problem you have is a leaking mechanical pump (which is a bad problem to start off with) I'd have a tendency to think you may not need to go electric with a regulator.

*side note - if your recirculation cannister is a metal one, be warned. They have the potential to rust out. There are plastic cased units but I think it's going to be a scrounge through a JY to find one...

I thought it was an odd filter and it is in fact metal. I think the pump was leaking when I bought it since the area under it is free of oil =). It may just be leaking more now due to more back pressure with the weber.

I will probably go ahead and just get the electric pump and regulator. The truck will be used infrequently so I wanted to do as little as possible to make it run. paid 500 for it and the weber/tabs has already doubled that.

Thanks for the info.

[Andy 2]

I've been running a Weber with the mechanical pump for 2 years without issue. I made sure to run the third port on the pump to the to the fuel return line and I use a Mr. Gasket pressure regulator set at 2 1/2 lbs.

[Kerrigan]

I'm going to install a 2-3 psi electric pump by the tank and remove the mechanical one.

[pennyman1]

I have run Geronimo with an electric pump back by the tank for 32 years. I am running a holley 5 PSI pump with no reg, with 1 filter before the pump and one before the carb and have no issues. He is also an 1980 D-50 sport with 2.6 and a 5 spd manual. When getting a pump the higher the flow rate the better - weber carbs are more flow rate than pressure sensitive to a point.

[Kerrigan]

The electric one I installed gauges 6.4 psi at the carb inlet which I was told is too high for the Weber I have (Made in Spain)? Supposed to be 2-3 psi pump at the carb... no? Now I don't know ... lol!

I have run Geronimo with an electric pump back by the tank for 32 years. I am running a holley 5 PSI pump with no reg, with 1 filter before the pump and one before the carb and have no issues. He is also an 1980 D-50 sport with 2.6 and a 5 spd manual. When getting a pump the higher the flow rate the better - weber carbs are more flow rate than pressure sensitive to a point.

[pennyman1]

what pump did you use?