Should arrive tomorrow the 10th by FedEx. This one was got on Ebay, there is another one that is Plastic on Ebay, but the guy wanted too much for it. He got stuck with it in a sale and paid $90, I offered $45 because that's all it was worth for the plastic material used to make it. I wanted the glass anyway. I also like the centerline crease on it. Should match the trucks pretty good.Originally Posted by pennyman1
Well, the cowl arrived and I must say it is pretty nice. It is thick enough to be strong, yet flexible to fit the curve of the hood great. I think I am going to fit it to the hood permanently and mold it in for final outcome. Right now it's just too friggin cold out in the garage to do anything, so I probably will wait. I read about some 3M epoxy that is good for this application and last years. I definitely don't want any cracking since our weather is so extreme up here and the metal would expand at a different rate then the glass does.. I may go with heavy duty rivets so the molding is not such a pain. I'm going to go down to wrecking yard and grab a hood off one of the available trucks there and use that instead of molesting mine.
Anyway, I will add this to the list and soon as I can grab a space heater for the garage, updates will be slow for now. 15-20 degrees is just to chilly for my liking.
Cowl Hood
CowlHoodScoop.jpg
I am glad I went today to the wrecking yard. There was a 1986 Dodge truck there with engine and trany and with a very nice intact body and I got the hood from for only $34.00.
This will let me keep my hood on the truck until I mount and mold in the cowl scoop onto this hood. The wrecking yard hood is perfect with just a little surface rust around the first set of punched holes in the under hood support metal.
Here are a few images with the cowl scoop set on it for size. I like the proportions of the two and the matching crease of the hood that is continued on the cowl.
This extra hood will allow me to open an air inlet through the hood to the carb and still keep it from inhaling rain or other weathering.
Cowl1.jpgCowl2.jpg
Cowl3.jpg
Last edited by BradMph; 03-27-2019 at 08:06 PM.
Before I redid Geronimo, I had an A+A fiberglass ABS cowl induction scoop that was attached with rivets and had the scoop sandwiched between 2 layers of fiberglass and bonded to the hood. After a few years, it started to crack at the corners, and even redoing it with the woven cloth did not solve the cracking at the corners. That is why I now have a Bolton scoop - I used Ultrafast urethane windshield sealant to bond the scoop to the hood. Its the same sealant windshield installers used to glue in windshields before airbags - it allowed the windshield to be kicked out if necessary
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Pennyman does that sealant harden up? and is it paintable? I guarantee I will not fiberglass this on. I had a whaletail on Celica and it cracked at the corners also. It needs to flex and expand too much to use glass, for sure. There is some 3M product that I was reading on and it was said to have the best adhesive for this type of application. I still am searching around and seeing what others had done. I definitely don't want to redo after a couple years.
3m.jpg
This cowl is a RaceComposites
RC.jpg
example without the center rib
Last edited by BradMph; 12-14-2013 at 07:04 PM.
Looked around online for examples of cowl scoop installations and think I am going this route.
scoop.jpg
Going to use a windshield adhesive to hold the scoop down to the hood and then place stainless steel
acorn nuts about 2 inches apart or so. This will visually match-up with the snaps on the tonneu bed cover
to pull it together.
ZZ91113_A[1].jpg
That will work - since mine has the studs, I didn't need the exterior fasterers. There is also no lip to mount mine that way. It will get hard enough that it won't lose adhesion. Held up for 22 years and counting on Geronimo.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Got all that top layer paint off the new(old) hood last night. I went and got a 4 inch putty knife and the paint came off surprisingly easy. The entire hood allowed the paint to be pealed (popped) off with the putty knife in about 45 minutes. Whoever painted it with that top coat paint didn't bother sanding I guess. This saved me a ton of time, so now I'll need to run a sander on hood to smooth it out a little, mark my center and drill holes for the new cowl bolts and air-filter intake opening. Prime both hood and cowl and mate them together. I picked up the adhesive at O'Reilly's the other night. The guys there know me so well that they let me in after closing hours to get it and got a chance to chat with them too.
Later in the future I will be going to paint store to get the paint for hood, as well as the entire truck I think. It's getting harder to stay motivated as I get older, but I hope to paint the whole truck for it's first time since I have owned it. Of course I will stay with the red, but not the Mitsy stock red. Something a little more purty for her is in mind.
I thought I would do an update on the thread since it has been a while.
The hood is coming along well. I have both the hood and cowl primed and ready to start fitting to hood. Need to drill holes for cowl and then a large hole for induction into carb.
pre-design.jpg
This is the result I am trying to achieve in the end. I want to find a eye catching red for repainting the entire truck I hope next summer.
Oh, I also have some great news about a starting issue I had for a few years now. Apparently back in the day when I had to replace a starter, I was given a 2 wire starter during the purchase of a new one. I installed it and did not notice any problems. As time went on, I picked up a hard starting issue and if it didn't start in 2-3 trys it would flood and be a pain to start. Recently I replaced the starter when I rebuilt my engine. I installed another starter and it so happen to be a 3 wire starter. I then found out I taped the 3rd wire up that went to the original starter and forgot all about it, so I installed new starter and began to connect the 3rd wire. But, before I did I had to install a circuit between the 3rd wire connector of the starter to coil. The circuit reassured power flowed one way only and at a 12 volt range.
Well today, I decided I was going to connect the wire just for hopes to fix. I went to truck after connecting and turned the key... the truck started instantly, just like the good old days. In fact it did this everytime and no more flooding. So, my starter and electrical are for a 3 wire so 12 volts is pushed during the start-up. Feels like a new truck after years of cranking it over and over.
Last edited by BradMph; 06-24-2014 at 10:13 PM.
Almost done with the cowl hood stuff. I need to put another coat of paint on the items and cut openings in the hood for air flow under the cowl scoop. I went with a satin black for now until I can paint the entire truck a nice red. Shouldn't be much longer to finish and post some images.
I been sicker then a dog for the last 6 days and finally went to doctor on Monday for antibiotics. 1st time I had anything like this for at least 20 years. Feeling better now.
Going to put a bead of windshield glue around base of cowl and be sure to tape it off also. The glue has an annoyingly quick drying time so always try to protect those areas you don't contaminated. Anyway, I'll try to post the last one with it on the truck. I hope all this work pays off, at least I didn't molest the original hood as well.
hood1.jpg
Nothing is permanent except the small hole cut in hood for intake on the drivers side, other then that changes can still be made if needed if I change my mind.
UPDATE POST:
Installed hood March 7 2014 and I think I kind of like the look of the cowl scoop there. I'll try to get some real photos and post them maybe later today. I need to do some home repairs for a long term client at their million dollar property which is much more fun to snap photos at, then in town somewhere. Great family and lucky to be their little helper. lol
Last edited by BradMph; 03-08-2014 at 06:17 AM.
Ok, Here are some images of the hood thing I installed on my daily driver. I am procrastinating on the molding to the hood because of severe weather changes we have here. A flexible material is best, but it will still flex differently since one is fiberglass and the hood is metal. I painted hood black Rustoleum rust killer Semi Gloss for preventative protection and a single clear coat that needs the top of hood to be wet sanded and shot with the last can of clear. Spray can paint is starting to become sort of cool with the new tips they are using. The only problem is that some tips can vary from their sprays and you have to be careful if the tip gets loaded a bit and spits a drop out on your job. I hope to get entire truck painted red after weather gets warmer and I save some cash this year. The red is all original and showing wear after almost 30 years.
You can click on image to make them show a larger version.
NewHood1.jpgNewHood2.jpg
NewHood3.jpgNewHood4.jpg
The other night I lost oil pressure going about 20mph. Came up to next corner and temp was perfect, a little low and everything else seemed ok, but oil pressure was "0". The truck put out a little fan belt squeak and the idle dropped and almost stalled. I rolled a little farther and it stalled right in front of friends house. I pulled it to the curb and looked under hood and everything look ok. I had oil, water, no over heating. I knew oil pressure was null, so I checked to see if I could turn it over by hand and no go. Something froze up inside engine and by the looks and sound, it was a balance shaft problem. I knuckle heat checked the block by the balance shaft and sure enough it was warmer then the rest of the engine. So, I have a job to do and pulling the engine is a must. Without knowing 100% yet what happen, I am hoping that either a balance shaft decided to spin its bearing and get stuck locking up the balance shaft on the bearing or an oil drive belt broke which in turn would do the same thing to a balance shaft. It did not sound like a piston or crank lockup, but you never know. Whatever happened the damage should not be incredibly terrible because I wasn't even near an RPM that would cause catastrophic damage thank god. Crawling at 20mph and the engine just slowed and stalled. We will pull it in garage and see if we need a balance shaft kit installed which would be a easy fix, but this is usually a rare case. We'll keep you informed as soon as we find the reason for this problem.
I suggest Porche Guards red. Its very bright. I painted my Kawasaki kz550 that color and it looked awesome IMO
Thanks, I'll check that out. I don't like the stock California Red that it came with.
Pulled engine last night to check why it lost oil pressure and is locked. Pulled oil pan and both the balance shaft and oil gear shafts turn just fine. The oil pump belt was attached and in perfect condition. The head portion of the motor turns fine and I did a couple full rotations. There was no metal bits or anything obvious in the lower end that I can see causing the crank not to turn.
Again, this happened going about 20mph and came to a stop and it almost stalled. I noticed oil pressure was zero, so I idled to the next corner and it made metal screech sound or like a fan belt squeal and then wanted to die. It didn't lock up or make any hard knocks or bangs or anymore strange noises. Acted like I just turned the key off. It didn't overheat at all, no water in oil and when I took oil cap off to check inside there was wet oil there. The head looks fine, it's just the crankshaft not able to rotate. The wrist pins and rod bearings seam to have the same amount of movement on each and seems normal. I tapped on the rods with a dead blow hammer to see if that would free it up and also put a torque wrench on crank pulley bolt to try and rotate engine either way and no go.
No hits or scrapes inside lower end.
What is strange to me is that oil pressure dropped to zero, yet the drive belt and shaft are intact. No belt jump and shaft has no abnormal play or scored bearings.
I removed the oil filter and filter housing and there was oil in the filter.
The oil pickup tube screen was clear and tube was fine. I guess I will pull the front engine plate off tomorrow and look at the oil pump gears. Then pull the rear bearing seal and seal plate.
The truck was running perfect up to this moment.
Found the problem on the motor today.
I removed the front plate and shafts and it looks like the oil shaft spun the bearing and covered the oil hole. It looks like it shifted towards the front about a millimeter also.
OilPump_bearing.jpg
checking the rod bearing play, I noticed the #1 rod bearing had no play, so I removed the rod cap and the bearing was stuck on the crank. I tapped it loose and it is evident the bearing had spun because of lack of oil.
2_RodCap_Bearing.jpgRodCap_Bearing.jpg
Here is the crank shaft after removing the bearing.
1_crank.jpg2_crank.jpg
and this is the rod end.
Rod.jpg
The bearing heated and actually left a shaving of itself on the crank. I probably can just flake it off with a razor blade real careful and the crank will be just fine. The rod and cap are fine also. They had a good hold of the bearing so no markings on them as you can see. I'll contact my machine shop though and inform them and most likely have them repair it. This is because the bearing on the oil pump shaft spun and that is not an item I installed. It must of been just loose enough to turn a bit and then stop, clogging the oil pressure hole.
I'll give them a call on Monday and see what they want to do. Meanwhile I think I will get the parts ahead of time so either way I can be a little more ready to get it fixed.
polish the crank journal with some crocus cloth after you get the bearing slivers off of it. Hopefully it didn't scour the crank.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Since I have to pull the crank, I'm going to pull the one out of the spare engine I have from the 87 parts truck I had and have that done since it has way less miles. I will check the wear on it and make sure it is not in bad shape. Then put all new bearings on all the rods. I hope there are no more surprises when I pull the crank out. It doesn't look like the pistons or rings got hurt or wrist pins. I think after removing I will do that sanding on it on the bench. I need to check oilers inside the block as well because there definitely was some debris passed from this bearing.
I was planning to replace the rear main seal on the motor, but I am glad I just pulled motor and all out again. This time was easier since everything stayed attached and only took about 2 hours to remove. This other motor also has balance shafts, but I think it's time to remove them. I did some research about the circumstances if they are in or out and I think my decision is out. I just don't want to spin a bearing on one again like this which is easy to do. I am looking for an aluminum flywheel if I can find the right price. Maybe have the machine shop work my original flywheel to remove some weight since that will be much cheaper.
Well, I think I will get things rolling tomorrow and start this project.
Last edited by BradMph; 04-02-2014 at 01:18 AM.
yeah i had a very similar problem, however, mine was due to the bearing not having oil...i oopsed the check of the oil level one day and got the same results:
20140322_125324.jpg20140322_125331.jpg20140322_125344.jpg20140322_125351.jpg
Ouch Asmyser, though yours looks more serious I am looking deeper into why mine, doing what it did. I have removed the crank from my doner 87 G63B engine for my 86 2.0 and the balance shafts and crank look remarkable, almost perfect. I have some photos I will post later on before I sent the crank to the machine shop. I need to order balance shaft and rod bearings for when the crank gets finished. As well as the crank bearings depending on how worn or damaged they got in less then 3000 miles. The crank needs to be checked so I can order the right bearing sizes for it and rod ends.
I'm going to reopen the oil pump and check for failure here also. When I checked the balance shaft bearings on both sides I see the rebuilder just put a bearing with an oiler hole on the single bearing side shaft and It appeared to look like it had spun past the oil hole on the block, but the doner engine has no oiler hole(strange). I checked the double bearing shaft side and things look intact, though not very smooth and scratched. All will be replaced and changing my mind regularly...I will install these much better balance shafts. I was going to put a removal kit in, but I just am not ready to deal with a vibration I will not be happy having after finishing everything. I am going to also swap out the rear bearing oil seal and housing from the doner because it looks like someone put a brand new one in the doner engine.
This is the information on the bearings in the motor presently:
King Engine Bearings, Inc.
371 Little Falls Road, Suite 5
Cedar Grove, NJ 07009
USA
Phone: 1-973-857-0705
Toll Free: 1-800-772-3670
Fax: 1-973-857-3228
Email: inquiry@kingbearings.com
http://www.king-bearings.com/cat/Pan...mfamily=872302
kinglogo.gif
8 X
C4481
122CI /2.0Liter
G63B,4G63 L4 SOHC
8 Valves, vin D
Gasoline 02/1980 - 04/1992 1997
85x88 4
CR4481AM STD
/0.25
Shell No
C4481
Qty
4 Pairs
Diameter
1.7709/1.7717
44.981/45.001
Max wall Thick
0.0588
1.494
Housing
1.8899/1.8904
48.003/48.016
Length
0.9290
23.597
I want to change the front seal on the trany too since its down and accessible. I need to take my fuel pump block plate to auto store to find a better one then the one I made. This has been seeping a litte oil also that I noticed.
I don't want any more surprises this time when I am finished and everything is back in the truck. If I get a fail again, I am ripping it all out and going american with a V6 or V8. Tired of these surprises and stuff with this present engine and the cost of anything to replace is overpriced.
Last edited by BradMph; 04-05-2014 at 09:35 PM.
Here are those images of the doner crank stuff I took.
DSCF0006.jpgDSCF0007.jpg
Lower end open and a rod bearing with the A17X DOE L stamp
DSCF0010.jpgDSCF0015.jpg
Balance shaft bearings in doner engine. Notice single bearing side has no oiler hole in bearing, but the double bearing balance shaft side has oiler holes in both bearings. Only can see the front bearing but the back one has a hole to.
DSCF0019.jpg
Picked up a fuel pump block off plate today at O'reilly's Auto. Nice fit to the 2.0 fuel pump space with exact bolt pattern. Part Mr.Gasket #1516. They keep them up on the high performance chrome parts wall and there were only 2 types to choose from.
Part1516.jpg
Got my crank back from machinist today and we decided to order Kingbearing's Pro race bearings .25 clearance size. I need to get some plastic gauge tonight and pre run engine build grease and whatever. I bought a new torque wrench for inch pounds and things are rolling along. I'll keep you posted.
Here is Kingbearing's brochure on their racing new line and for G63x engines.
king-racing-brochure.zip
You need to unzip download and have Acrobat Reader from adobe.com in place for viewing catalog.
Pulled the crank out of my truck today and found some leftover gunk in the bearing channel of no1 main bearing. I am going to replace all the main bearing also. I might have some partially clogged oilers going to the wristpins and will check them. The main bearings were wearing all over the place. Each one was worn differently. The rod bearings were looking like they were right at a point of not being happy.
DSCF0005.jpg
click image to expand
I do have a concern question and hope some one knows better then I do. No3 wristpin has some stiffness. All the wristpins are locked into the rods and all the side to side and rotational movement is happening between the wristpin and piston bushing. But, this No3 is just stiffer then the rest. 1,2,4 rods don't stand up by themselves in the block. They are nice and smooth and freely move in the direction they travel when running. Will this No3 wristpin loosen up like the others. Everything was new in there and the movement is still smooth on 3 with no grabbing. But, is it normal for some places like these to be a little tight on clearance?
Here you can see how I can stand up the No3 rod held in place by the tight clearance wristpin while the others flop to the sides of the block.
DSCF0003.jpg
click image to expand
I would pull the pin on no 3 to see why it is stiffer than the others - may be something in there from the bearing failing - may want to check all of them to be sure nothing is lurking in the rest of them - is there an oil passage up to the wristpin?
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
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