Thanks again, will give that a shot this morning.
One other thing: seen/read threads on vacuum advance from Weber to distributor. My distributor has 2 vacuum nipples: I'll describe them as closet to dizzy shaft, and furthest. I spoke with people at TopEnd Performance (where I bought my Weber), they said it didn't matter which dizzy nipple I connected to, just cap the unused one.
Is that correct information?
Thx.
I see this is an old post but *** THANK YOU *** for posting the vids on here!!! I Will Be Getting This for my b-day, lol. I had no idea what I wanted until your videos THANK YOU! Already on Amazon list. I don't think I've cursed so many times in a row over something so exciting (vs. insane politics) in years, LOL. Very super awesome. Much thanks!!!Originally Posted by BradMph
That did the trick!!! Thanks.
Hey folks, glad I can help with my postings and installations. I continue to post here when it comes to need, but since my truck has been doing really well lately I haven't had to enter any fixes or updates. I have also been busy with this '85 Thunderbird I bought and tearing it down for some high performance updates and overall fixing.
Thanks for your compliments, its nice to know that I can help with information that I have placed here.
Also, Thank You Pennyman for stepping in and giving help as well. Your very appreciated and welcome to post anytime on this thread.
Got some weird thing with the temp gauge that just started after this cold weather just rolled in. I have been using the block heater and it works very well, but a few days later my temp gauge climbed to about 3/4 to the top. It generally sits about 1/4 the way up on the gauge. I check the engine and seems to be not as hot as the gauge showed it should be. So, I drove it for the next few more days and it was trying to climb a little higher each day. It finally got to a point that I was not going to trust it anymore and replaced the thermostat with a 180. I'm thinking that the block heater somehow worked the thermostat and it possibly caused it to not open completely. I have not tested the truck yet with the new install, but will relay it here when I do.
The truck rarely sometimes gets a grounding problem I am guessing with that left side temp/fuel gauge. The gauge will stop working on a first start in the morning or whenever. Once started, if I slap the dash right above the gauge, it reconnects and both needles move to their normal position. It has not gotten worse, so I have let this go unchecked.
If the gauge repeats what it just started doing, I will install a new gauge to verify if it's the gauge taking a dump or the engine actually increasing temperature.
dash.jpg
Sounds like a cold solder joint on the back of the cluster - reflow the joints first before replacing the gauges.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Good Idea Pennyman, That will be in the check list if I can't solve it using easy methods. I get occasional right blinker issues too and probably needs re-flow. The blinker will work 95% of the time and when it decides to glitch, it's only the light in the dash that stops working. I can hear the blinker relay noise and all lights are working but the in dash one. I Guess I can't expect things to keep working for 29 years problem free, though it has lasted well over its expected time.
UPDATE: After replacing the thermostat, the truck's temp gauge is still rising strangely and determined that it probably is a (as Pennyman mentioned) solder point that has broken ground contacts partially. Will check for this issue later when time and weather permit.
Last edited by BradMph; 01-03-2015 at 06:07 PM.
The Inertia Fuel Cut-Off Switch
I decided to put a plug here for this type of fuel cut off switch for all the folks that use Oil Safety Switches, which can be a PIA sometimes to install.
This switch is the Ford's version of a fuel cut off switch and is an inertia impact button release switch. Other car manufactures make these also, but I decided to post the Ford switch because of it's reset ability of the red button reset. This switch will shut fuel pumps off in the case of an impact and save you from possibly burning in a fuel fire. Electric fuel pumps can continue to pump fuel after an accident occurs and could very well cause severe injuries to you and the people in the vehicle. Fuel cut off types of switches should not be neglected or left out if you have update from a manual fuel pump to the electric fuel pump.
The Inertia Fuel Cut-Off Switch
inertia.jpg
The Inertia Fuel Cut-Off Switch is a relay of sorts, so it gets to be on this page. This little relay is in your car to save your life from fire by shutting off the fuel pump in the event of an accident. It cuts the power to the fuel pumps when a predetermined force is applied. Just like a circuit breaker the red button pops up when it is tripped. It consists of a steel ball held in place by a magnet. When a sharp impact occurs, the ball breaks loose from the magnet, rolls up and strikes a target which opens the electrical contacts of the switch and shuts off the electric fuel pump. It must be mounted straight up to work correctly. On some vehicles a fuel reset light will illuminate on the dash.
Last edited by BradMph; 01-04-2015 at 02:44 AM.
Although a good idea, this type of device can also trip when hitting a pothole or curb and shut down your fuel pump for the wrong reason. This becomes an issue if used on a lowered vehicle that contacts the bump stops due to shortened suspension travel. I have been in tha gas station when people have come in off the road and hit a bump or went over the entrance or sewer grate, and after filling the car, could not start until the cutoff switch was reset. I would never use this in place of the oil pressure safety switch - it can be added as an extra precaution.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
If it's engaging hitting a curb or pot hole, it may need to be moved closer to the center of the vehicle possibly. Though I think Ford would be very busy if these were engaging on vehicles hitting small bumps or curbs you think. IMO if Ford uses them for such a safety device and checked by the regulations required for such a device then there must be some quality with them. They use the ball and tube type of detection devices in other forms like with air bag deployment, among other triggers set around the vehicle.
I can understand what your saying and that our trucks are maybe a bit more prone to respond from a curb or hole harder then most vehicles. But, oil pressure switches have querks as well. Idling for one and if the pressure drops below the set allowance of the unit it will shut down. As well, if involved in an accident where the oil switch is supposedly to shut down the motor will not always happen. Cars don't always shut down even in a rollover. My experience in a roll over I had and my car continued to run until I shut it off.
The oil switch is a good tool for loss of oil pressure, that's what it is intended for and to save your engine. So if oil pressure drops, it in turn shuts the motor off through the fuel relay then to the fuel pump. I personally would use a dummy light to come on instead of shutting my engine down. The light would tell you faster that oil pressure is below level and to do something quick. The engine just shutting down as your driving due to the oil switch would be confusing I think.
But, I do agree on using both, perhaps that would be within reason. But, some people are putting in these oil switches thinking that will shut the Electric fuel pumps off in an accident. I would not want to stake myself on just an oil switch and hope for the best that my engine stopped running and power to fuel pump stopped in a collision. Oil pressure dropping because a collision is not a common occurrence especially in a rear-ender.
I asked multiple places... to AirTex' technical people when I was tryng to find an oil sensor switch, scouring my Chilton's manual, but never got a good answer: would be helpful to know G63B's oil pressure both when motor is cranking before a start, and at normal idle. AirTex' tech offered his best guess based on experience as a Chevy mechanic for several decades, saying GM 350's were min. 12 lbs @ idle... surmised G63B would not be much less.
Switch I settled on activated with low pressure (AirTex 1S6559):
- Terminal "P" to "S"- Normally closed 0-1.5 PSI
- Terminal "P" to "I"- Normally open 0-1.5 PSI
- Terminal "P" to "S"- Normally open 6 PSI and above
- Terminal "P" to "I"- Normally closed 6 PSI and above
Anyone w/an oil pressure gauge tell us pressure at idle?
Another thing I found out (the hard way): not all these switches manufactured to the same standard. Internal parts (conductors) used vary amongst manufacturers. 1st one I bought (so I could get it locally & avoid wait from shipping) was cross referenced from the above AirTex switch to Borg Werer: if failed immediately ("I" connector broke internally after 1st hookup). Asking @ our NAPA main store in ABQ, one of the old hands there said they carried 2 separate brands (Standard was premium, don't recall "value" brand) and that the value brand's internal quality was insufficient for application I was relying on. One would never know this just reading packaging (I could never verify on Borg Werner's site the pressures at which switch I mention activates).
Wells provides this info, as does AirTex: they both make many similar/identical switches, but both of them make several the others don't. Seems to be consensus Standard makes high quality switches, but they don't provide the specs (at least that I could find).
I guess, to summarize: in order for relying on switch to be reliable protection for the safety issue we're talking about here, both the quality and pressure ranges of the switch matter a lot.
as far as the idling shutoff problem - my first switch was a holley switch which had a small hole into the housing - it plugged one day with sludge somehow and I had to jump it out to get home. I then went to a GM monza oil pressure switch - it has a large hole and never clogged - afetr 20 years the seals went in it and it started shooting oil on the exhaust header through the terminals - surprizingly the motor did not shut off despite the massive oil leak, but at the rate it was leaking, my oil would not have been high enough for long.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
They do matter jdmk. The good ole oil switch should save an engine in it's own rights, if it is correctly made. I think the oil pressures range with our trucks as well. The range of older trucks have typical lower pressure. If I remember right, mine would slowly sink to 10-15 easily before rebuild and installing the larger factory oil pump. Now at idle it's about 25-30 and early morning it can really climb up.Type of oil probably can change the gauge too. I think we need to find the one that would be the best for our application for it's usage. Having one that could possibly shut you down with just a low oil pressure could be frustrating. I think the ranges you have shown are in the ball park for what would work great. Personally I still like a red light on the dash to get my attention, in turn will get me to look at my after market oil gauge for details. But, if your on the freeway and that oil pressure stops...you probably will be rebuilding a motor. I think our trucks need water temp sensor switches more also. The record for cracked heads from over heating radiators out weigh oil loss issues 10 fold.
Thanks Brad.
Briefly, I'm pleased w/operation of my oil switch... behaving just as it should. Truck runs like a top... couldn't be happier.
Still 2 do is install vacuum guage, per your excellent article here on what that can tell us. I will be installing oil pressure/coolant temp guages as well. I'll re-torque head bolts @ +/- 500 miles after this head replacement.
I'm running Valvoline full synthetic: motor has just over 6k after complete rebuild. Ran Valvoline conventional until pouring in syn this time.
FWIW, when I was restoring SAAB's did a pretty thorough investigation into motor oils. Some very very good, thorough testing done out there I was surprised to find. Of the conventional, Castrol proved the best... Valvoline a very close 2nd. NAPA's house brand is Valvoline, and I always stocked up when they ran sales every few months... can get if about 1/2 price.
I was very convincingly persuaded then (when I researched oil) that, accounting for all the things people debate forever on one side or another, good quality synthetic in well rebuilt (or new) motor after break-in is the way to go.
...
This last repair cost considerably more then I planned... with head work, gaskets/head bolts/wiring & fittings, and having to eat 1st elec. fuel pump I bought (was incompatable: RockAuto would not take a return) I spent about $900. With orginal R & R motor rebuild a couple years ago and everything I had to do to fix his shoddy work, total is somewhere around $2800. Or, a lot more then it should have cost or could have.
A lot of that was my bad: I didn't research/get to know this truck under the hood before that... didn't check up on builder like I should have (was just too busy then)... this kind'a thing just happens whrn I turn this level of work over to someone who I haven't verified to my satisfaction.
So w/that said... given attention to detail I gave this last round of repairs, performance of the truck w/the Weber properly installed, replacement of all the driveline/suspension parts I did, I'm pretty confident this little truck is going to be solid/reliable for a long time. In the long run, having spent an extra $1k more then I should have... not all that big a deal. Couldn't get another similar truck, in this kind of shape... anywhere close to that.
Paint is badly faded, but body is actually in very good shape... nothing worse then surface scratches. Only "crunch" is on front/passenger side fender.
Will probably pull motor/give it the paint job it deserves this summer.
Still a couple (unrelated to latest work) minor things that need fixing:
- just before I parked it 2 years ago, horn stopped working. Traced it back to steering well (where you press to activate horn) and pulled that assembly apart. Before I could get it fixed (days), the head gasket blew and it got parked. I twiddled with replacing contacts and reassembling, but getting that together looks like a puzzle at the moment. If anyone's done that appreciate being pointed to the how-to.
- "Brake" light is stuck on. I re-did brakes just before motor rebuild couple years ago... brakes are essentially new. Double checked 'em after last big test drive, brakes are fine. Most be a bad sensor and/or switch somewhere, but I haven't looked into this yet.
Other then that, truck's as close to perfect as I could have imagined... mechanically, turned out better then my most optimistic hope.
Put in new radiator at motor rebuild, am confident of cooling (you mention over heating problems). If there's one thing I would have done different, it would have been replacing the head w/a new non-jet-valve-machine head rather then "plugging" jet valves on the original.
Sometimes if you know your going to spend a lot of money on engine, take a look at car-part.com. Many places have no problem delivering one. I over spent on the truck too. Parts are expensive on these things, I got a pair of chrome headers for a ford 302 cheaper then a single header on the truck.
I like Castrol because the internal engine metal stays almost like new with that. Definitely don't want a wax oil. 20-50 I used for 275k miles. I should of went synthetic like you have. That oil is the best stuff. Though if changed from reg oil to synth later on say, it begins to drip a lot on the driveway. It gets worse and worse if it's left in the motor.
Ok, you (inadvertently) squeezing "the story" on this truck.
Wife & I had began a remodel of our mid-50's house here in ABQ in 2008. Long story short: we have a (very mildly) pitched roof. She had the house before we married in '04, and had never been up there or had it checked. Some asphalt tiles had blown off, so I went up to inspect prepared to simply re-roof (remove old tile, new tar paper and tile). Turns out somewhere along the line, someone had that asphalt tile installed directly over tar and gavel. The gravel was popping through all over.
When I got the tile up, turns out they'd put somewhere north of 6 layers tar/gravel underneath (maximum by code is 2), and the weight had begun collapsing the roof rafters. Had to strip entire roof structure down to ceiling and rebuild.
I was a tradesman for first 18 yrs of adult life (floor covering contractor)... done all this work many times. Been tennis coach and computer programmer for 20 yrs, and hadn't done any major work since I "got off my knees" (I'm 59).
I bought this truck from (literally) a little old lady down the street... used the truck w/her husband for missionary work in the summers in Mexico. Her husband had just died and I drove by the first morning she had a for sale sign on it. She had receipt for motor rebuild at 79k miles (had 119 when I bought it), and it ran fine. I liked these things because of it's large load carrying capacity... almost a ton. Good for all the runs to building supply for stuff I'd need to finish house.
Ran great for about... 3 months, then quickly got to the point it would barely ascend 5% grade up to our house. Taking it to a few local mechanics (one of which best in town... did a lot of work for us when I didn't have time for repairs on our vehicles) and quickly found out there was literally nobody in town familiar with these things, much less their quirks. All kinds of diagnosis/attempts at repar that didn't work... carb work, fuel lines replaced and some other "guesses".
I got on Google finally for a few hours and found an obscure "service bulletin" from Chrysler to it's dealers on these things from earluy 90's. It described my symptoms precisely as caused by clogged jet valves. I had never heard of Jet Valves!!!
That led to more Googling, and finally finding Top End Performance in LA... experts in these motors. When I finally got my head around ongoing problems with Jet Valves, found best remedy (if head not cracked) to plug them... then that original Carb had been out of production for a long time and did not rebuild well, began thinking about entire rebuild and Weber rather then fixing a few things and hoping for the best. 2 things sealed this decision:
- The shop that rebuilt motor for the lady I bought it from was still in business (she'd used him for years). Went and talked to him: he did no machining of block, checking/miking block, and did not redo the head (no machine work there whatsoever). So I didn't really have a rebuilt motor, just a few new parts in there
- considerable oil leaking from the oil pump seal.
Other research indicated problems with the balance shafts... both originally and better then original replacements.
Only reason I chose builder I chose: out of 5 shops I checked with, he was the only one familiar with jet valve issues and fixes (plugs) and balance shaft kits. All the reputable motor rebuild houses that would ship here were not familiar with any of this. So this guy won me over with this knowledge.
He turned out to be a fraud.
Made one trip with that truck to pick up what turned out to be about 1900 lbs of tar paper from a contractor going out of biz because of building crunch (got it for pennies on the $$), and drove that truck home on freeway with a load a GMC 3/4 ton would have a tough time with. No problem.
And that was the last use I got out of it for the purpose I bought if for (house rebuild)... came back from builder smoking like a '58 studebaker and it was all downhill from there.
I had an '86 SAAB 900 and '91 Alpha Spyder in the driveway (SAAB 95% rebuilt then, Alpha maybe 50%... motor done but needed new interior/exterior. Was driveable though... great little car). My Mighty Max got moved to the end of that line... just now got to it.
SAAB & Alpha both gone, no more project cars... I'm a MM guy now!!! (hope it will be my daily drive for years).
[/QUOTE]I like Castrol because the internal engine metal stays almost like new with that. Definitely don't want a wax oil. 20-50 I used for 275k miles.[/QUOTE]
Agree w/all that... very good performance for Castrol: no Penzoil or Quaker state ever in any of my cars.
I've ran a lot of Valvoline over the years and had very good luck with that as well. But research I read showed Castrol a smidge better. But... seems like most of Castrol's benefits show up in more high performance motors... running @ high RPMS, or turbo'd etc. The other thing, for motors running at modest rpms and driven conservatively: oil has just gotten so expensive. Castrol probably on sale somewhere from time to time but I haven't seen it.
We had (at that time) not a couple cars, but (for just the 2 of us and our octogenerian parents living with us) a fricking fleet... 6 of 'em including MM.
I did a lot of oil changes. Discount in NAPA (Valvoline) bought on sale added up.
FWIW, I think CarQuest's house brand of oil is Valvoline as well.
Got a case of NAPA 5/30 (what I use in winters here) last time for 1.57 p/qt. Castrol or Valvoline off the shelf here, now just under $6.!!!
How true that is... additives to the synthetic eat up older seals/gaskets. Also "knocks off" (dissolves) cludge, which added to the mix is like sandpaper in there. I've explained this to a few friends who bought trucks with "tired" motors, were excited and wanted to "treat 'em right" by pouring in Syn: didn't hear what i said, and still have large oil stained driveways reminding them of that hard lesson forever!!!I should of went synthetic like you have. That oil is the best stuff, but for an engine already running ash oil, then you switch to synth.... it starts leaking all over the driveway.
You're in Spokane, right? My 93 yr. old mom lives there now... in a big "retirement facility" on So. Hill near the big Morman Church (forget street names). I'm planning on driving my MM up there to see here this summer... take some of the back roads through UTAH and WYOMING I've never seen on the way. Maybe when I get there we could have a bite to eat, look under the hoods and chew that fat?
Sure, stop by... anyone is welcome...except that guy in Canada named Fordubishi,
That is a nice drive too going thru those areas. Montana is also a great drive and so is the 80mph+ speed limits.
Thread Update
__________________________________________
Little update to the truck interior with a gauge placement change. I bought this thing for a whole $16 on ebay and really like it.
gauge post.jpg
For someone who is going blind, it has helped allow me to see the gauges instead of just a blurry round thing in the lower console. The change came about when my temp gauge was telling me the truck was almost in the red. I bought a temp gauge and installed it in the tree with my volt and oil pressure gauge.
The pros out-weigh the cons on this update and I will mention the cons that I seem to have with this new gauge cluster so you will know them before installing.
Cons
*Gauge lights can be an issue if too bright. Pick a nice color bulb that will help allow you to see traffic without distraction and not bother your eye pupils from resizing constantly at night time. I'm using 2 ambers and one red for the temp gauge. I probably will switch to all red in gauges since red seems a bit easier on my eyes and will match dash red as well.
*Getting in and out of truck the gauges can be bumped, so you larger people need to take notice so you don't bang into them.
Wiring was pretty simple and it's a short distance from fuse panel and dimmer switch. Be sure to check your gauge diameters to the holes drilled in the panel.
Maybe I'll sport some photos later.
Who needs a parts washer? Pretty much all of us wish we had one some day or another. I have collected items to build your personal parts washer and for a very decent price. Here is what I came up with for a long lasting strong pressure and filtered Part Washer.
For around $200, you get a very good working washer. The pumps that come with the washer from Harbor Freight are crap to say the least. So, use it until it stops working and then install a Little Giant Pump to last the rest of your life. The chemical to use for cleaning is exceptional when cleaning parts. The best thing is that you can install one in an attached garage and the wife will not complain about the smell.
PartsWasher.jpg
(click on the image above to expand)
I did a graphic image placement of a BMW grill, around '88 model and placed it onto the front of my truck and I really liked it. I don't care what some beamer guy will say if he sees it, it looks different though. I ordered the piece from the Partsgeek.com for a whopping $8.00. They also sell on ebay for $20+, but for the price I got it for, what will I loose. It arrives Feb 26th 2016 and is identical to this one. Here is another graphic prefitting.
grill.jpg
It's kinda eye catching, lol.
Last edited by BradMph; 02-26-2016 at 04:51 PM.
Dare to be different BradI have an idea of making a custom front grille and using first gen Magna headlight assemblies (they're about the same size as the twin headlights but in a single frameless assembly) A friend of mine has a busted grille from a Scorpion that has a nice honeycomb pattern and Mitsubishi diamond.
Got the grill today and this thing is really nice. I am impressed for $7.00.
BMW_grill.jpg
I won't be jumping into an install right away. I have to change the TBird from a column shift to a console shift which will be a little involved, but I have the parts.
I will probably pull bumpers off the truck and redo them since they have not been done properly for a long time. A good sanding and primer, then paint them both. I will fit the BMW grill in when putting front bumper back on.
Anyway, the BMW grill was ordered from partsgeek.com for just over $7. Partsgeek.com also recently started a listing on my RacelineCentral.com website. They requested a year of advertising space so far.
I'll post some pics when I finish this BMW thingy.
Coool! I get bored with the same thing everyday and my truck has been through so many transformations. From tonneau cover to matching snug top camper shell and carpet kit and back to tonneau cover again, lol.Dare to be different Brad
Take some pics when you do your grill, I would luv to see it, sounds like it will look really nice.
Finally broke down and bought a Grant steering wheel for the truck. Go figure it only took 30 years to decide on the new one.
I didn't make any researched decisions on my purchase, I just wanted something nicer then what I have. The wheel is a Grant that comes with the extended hub casing which can't be seen in picture, but it will keep the wheel from being to close too the blinker and wiper arms.
The grant hub comes with 2 hub casing covers which is really helpful. This will help make it look fitted instead of having an oversized or undersized cover. The install kit is here now and the wheel arrives 03/22/16.
wheel.gif
Last edited by BradMph; 03-20-2016 at 07:02 PM.
Geronimo has had the Grant GT turquois wheel on him since 1985 with the same spacer - welcome to the club...
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Thanks Pennyman. I didn't get the one with holes because I got my finger stuck in one once when driving and almost cost me a finger and a ride. lol
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