"Mitsy" '86 Repairs, Renew, Rebuild, Replace

[BradMph]

This photo taken between 1987 - 1989 and after installing many extras. The truck was originally purchased bone stock with a leather vinyl snap bed cover and was it. I went crazy on it as you can see here. Just before heading to South California Mini-Truck Super Nationals in Narrows Park. We had the time of our lives.
original.jpg




The Automobile
A car is a part of culture because we spend a significant amount of time in our lives behind the steering wheel. We spend endless hours in traffic jams; we like to eat in a car, like to listen to music and so on. Our industry has made a great number of legendary cars and is a true argument that is an essential part of our lives. You know, psychologists claim that our style of driving shows some striking resemblance of our character, and you know it is true. A car is more than a piece of a metal, it has become a social phenomenon. Have you ever noticed that we often try to talk to our cars as if they were a human?

My '86 Mitsubishi "Mitsy"
A beginning of a never ending list of past & future repairs. I am figuring it will be a good idea to start documenting/logging all information so I can look back and use it when needed again. Some people say that they have too much on their mind and forgot things, but we all know the first thing that goes is the mind and I'm not ready to admit it just yet..
The vehicle for this thread information
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...hp?albumid=155



30+ years and a mountain of receipts
I recently garaged the truck due to some engine issues and thought I could fix the problem with a bandage and continue on as usual, but not this time. The truck began running bad one day as I was accelerating and she started bucking and then idling rough, you know the scenario. After a little bit it stopped, but I had that feeling it wasn't over. I brought the truck home, checked the usual and nothing looked out of place and I made some minor fixes that just didn't seem to help this time.
I used my other transportation for a few days and hoped the magic mechanic elves would come fix the truck while I was not using her, but I was wrong. I think the elves have left to go work for Keebler after so many years. Anyway after a few days, I jumped back in truck and it ran bad, gutless, popping out carb, electrical started acting strange, smell of fuel in the oil, things were bad. In addition, the poor truck has been through the effects of frozen ice forcing it's self into any cracks it can find during winter, to 90+ degree temps in the summer, it was time to do some major repairs.
I decided it was time to do the 4 "R's" for the truck and go through everything to make many overdue repairs that I have put off for so too long.

I call it...Repairs, Renewing, Rebuilding, Replacing

I'll update thread here with the repairs while she has been parked in garage for the major repairs and then continue on as I make other updates and modifications. I have a feeling this is going to be a never-ending story, but I'm not complaining.

truck1.jpg
Truck Photos Have Been Featured on Following Websites
-Castrol Oil.com
-Tire Rack.com
-Pierce Manifolds.com
-Raceline Central.com
-Car Domain.com
-Tire-size-conversion.com
and more...

[BradMph]

Well, got the head pulled tonight and also did some comparison from 1st gen and 2nd gen intake manifolds.

To bring you up to date on the work so far, here is a list of what has been done while parked in my garage.

Completed
* Complete rebuild of the 2.0L G63B
* Weber pre-installed prior to this work
* Replaced stock 45 amp alternator with a 100amp Starion/Conquest alternator.
* Installed Carter low pressure fuel pump, cockpit light trigger switch, replaced all rubber fuel lines, added fuel filter before weber carb.
* Installed a Holley fuel regulator with an attached mini gauge in engine bay.
* Added fuse block for 5 auxiliary fuses in engine bay, along with 3 re-wired relays. (removed the connector pile-up on positive post of battery)
* Replaced both timing belts, lower crank sprocket and crank timing plate.
* Had stock cam re-ground by Schnieder Race Cams.
* Replaced Distributor vacuum advance diaphragm and had distributor re-curved to the race cam.
* Adjusted carb float levels and installed the next larger mixture jets.
* Replaced center support bearing and all universal joints with seals.
* Changed fluids in differential, radiator, trany w/new tail shaft seal.
* Installed vacuum gauge in cockpit.
* Installed a D50 console, removed the stock gauges and installed 2 aftermarket gauges. Oil pressure/Volt oil
* Installed 2nd gen digital clock into D50 console.
* Removed all the aged added accessory wiring that was not being used, rewired existing accessories with thicker gauge and relays.
* Installed halogen driving lights.
* Removed sunroof, resealed & reinstalled.
* Lubed every knuckle, tie-rod end & ball joint.
* Installed a short non-cat exhaust with magnaflow 1 in and 2 out muffler, dumps just shy of rear axel.
* Replaced clutch with a F1 racing clutch with pilot bearing and throw out.
* Replaced the square original K&N Weber air filter to the dome shaped sponge filter
* Every last bit of factory smog installed plumbing has been removed.
* Electric fan w/adjustable temperature controlled relay- preinstalled prior to work.
* Installed an Oil catch can inline with PCV and a air vent filter on valve cover inlet.
* Installed a Weber carb hi-rise base adapter.
* Replaced the Gen 1 intake manifold with the 2nd manifold, cut the carb bridge and removed metal ring, sealed EGR cavity.
* Replace rear shocks to KYB's and now all shocks are matched.
* Installed an adjustable timing cam sprocket.
* Installed 110 volt block thermal heater
* Replace stock hood with a modified cowl Induction version.
* Replaced dash stock color lights to red color.
* Replace entire front headlight assemblies to the duel quad D50 headlight version w/new grill. (pre-installed)
* Installed hydraulic hood shocks, removed hood stay rod.

Here is the comparison of a 1st gen and 2nd gen intake manifold
-The 2nd gen intake has smoother ports, way less casting bumps then a 1st gen.
-2nd gen feels lighter then the 1st gen.
-1st gen intake tubes leading to head from carb are shaped like a horseshoe with basically the same diameter from head to carb, while the
2nd gen tubes are shaped sort of like a letter "M" with what looks like a tube compression as the tubes are reduced from the 2 barrel holes on intake.
-There is also a triangular area on gen2 that you can see thru the intake from above. The 1st gen casting are filled in on this area.
-To add, the EGR tube holes leading to the exhaust #4 port are all stuffed up with carbon suet as usual with these trucks.
-Grab a coat hanger and scrape these out carefully and watch all the crap that comes out of them.
-The thermostat housing tube drops into the air tube on the 2nd gen and into base under carb on gen1 intake.
-There are a couple other little things like an extra smog valve on bottom of 2nd gen and another sensor hole near water temp sensor under thermostat.
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(click on any images on this thread to expand their viewing)

Pulled intake and assembly attached off
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Exhaust port getting raw fueled & Un-burnt fuel beginning to self clean my valves
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This is what 275k miles looks like on cylinder walls, you can see we have a little wrist pin wobble scuffing.
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More tomorrow

[BradMph]

Got the motor pulled and what a mess. Got some power washing to do I guess. Shop is picking up motor tomorrow at 9:30am at my house and are dismantling it right away. They will be giving me a list of what they will need. I already ordered a full gasket set and brass freeze plugs and will order the ARP bolt kit today.
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After pulling the motor, the transmission about dropped to the ground. Going to replace trany mount as well since it never has been done. I'm pretty sure it was torn. I ended up shoving a board under trany to keep it from causing problems with the new seal.
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Here is the oil clod of an engine which will be all spic N span when it returns from the shop. Going to make them earn their money on this rebuild
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Here are a couple photos of the truck. Original paint and replacing my tonneau cover during spare time. Replaced all the snaps already and bought new material and edging. I have to wait for hot days to stretch fit the cover or it will never fit and then not unsnap it for about a week so it can adjust to the stretching.
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The shop will probably have the motor for a while and install parts as they arrive. I'll try to take some photos of the rebuild as I drop parts off for them. Mean while I need to locate a power washer and a giant scrub brush.

[Fordubishi]

well I see the problem with your engine its missing 1/2 its cylinders

[parrell456]

I love this truck. You'd die if you saw my motor... yours looks awesome and it isn't even done yet!

-RHP

[camoit]

You'd die if you saw my motor...

Then start killing us off, I'm starting to think he pushes his truck everywhere to take pictures of it.

[BradMph]

lol Fordubushi, and I agree 100% with you, it is missing and someday perhaps I will take a drive to your place and get those other 4 cylinders installed.

Thank You also parrell456

[BradMph]

Dropped the block off today and decided to use another machine shop. The first guy did not have the tools to do the job I felt should be done. I also asked him if I could get some documentation concerning his rebuilding specifications and this seemed to get him offensive about the build. The guy looks about 24-25 yrs old, but anyway he says if he supplied me with the measurements, he would charge me for blue printing the motor. I asked is it that hard to use a pencil that you have to charge a blue printing fee to do?
OK, I know I know,this guy must of had a lack of oxygen passing thru the birth canal because he changed gears after this. He got really upset about this simple request and made it sound like I was out of line for asking. I said it's my money, my parts, and it should be a normal routine to take notes while your performing such a job. I was staying rather calm about everything, but I noticed he wasn't, lol. He begins to go on about this little plaque on the wall he has that explains his wage for the labor and I think my butt started to itch about this time and it became more important than listening to him. Well, lol that was not funny to him and he went into a pouting and said, fine go somewhere else and get it done and then stomped off to the garage with no tools. At that time I had no one to talk to, lol...so I went down the road a 1/2 mile and found a more experienced and equipped machinist. This new guy ordered the parts while I was standing there, had his 2 man crew go out and get the engine out of the car trunk. It's raining like crazy and they bring the motor into the shop and the owner has one of them remove the clutch and timing covers and loose stuff immediately. Wow, what service...the motor will be about a week and a half which is perfect and will get all new pistons, rings, bearings, etc etc. What a blessing, I am glad I didn't have the 1st guy do this work, it would of cost more and most likely done wrong.
I did a BBB check on the place my engine is at now and I can relax finally, lol. here is their score sheet.
americanEngine.gif

[BradMph]

After good advice from forum members, I made a decision on the clutch and going to order Formula 1 Stage 1 kit. Need to get flywheel turned since there are some markings that can't be removed with a wire brush.
Presently while we wait for engine work, we are cleaning the engine bay and perhaps painting it afterwards, not sure yet. We started cleaning the area with some purple stuff I got at O'reilly's Auto Parts and by the smell of it, I think Easy Off Oven spray could of done the job too, lol. It's got that odor like when the wifey cleans the oven and it takes your breath away for a bit. It will sting if you get it on yourself too. Reading the uses on the back is interesting, cleans caked on oil, grease and grime, oil stained driveways, parts cleaner, and can be used as detergent for laundry too.

The head is getting a wire brushing then a hydro test to catch any possible leaks. I'm thinking at least one valve guide seal or guide is leaking a tiny bit into the exhaust port #3, but will check.

Going to switch intake manifolds from the original 1st gen to a better built 2nd gen that we have. Need to have some welding done on it first. I was reading somewhere on a forum that there might be a Lancer intake possibly that can be used for a swap, but need to look further on this. If you heard about this swap, I'd like to hear what you know. Sounds like an good idea if it will work.

Parts are starting to come in and we have our gaskets and brass freeze plugs 35mm. Got a carb gasket kit coming and will order clutch today.

UPDATE: Ordered clutch and got a dropped price of $95.00 Shipped, Should be here between 25th & 1st
clutch.jpg

[BradMph]

Was tripping the internet and came across a site with mufflers, AutoAnything.com and the prices were not too bad. I started looking for a single in, duel out muffler on a magnaflow. While I was looking, I found a mistake on one of the mufflers quoted pipe sizes. So, being the honest guy I am(smerk) I thought I would let them know. I noticed a chat box for contact and figured what the heck. Opened the window and a CSR jumped into chat named Noel. Yes Noel, like the X-Mas thing. We spoke a bit and I mentioned the mistake on the site and he asked that I wait while they checked it out. Sure enough there was a mistake and it needed to be corrected. Jokingly I said, "well do I get a free muffler for finding this mistake?". Noel answered by saying, not quite, but we will give you 10% off if you like. Well, I said hell yes... I'll take that and explained that I won't be able to pay until the 3rd and he said no problem and gave me the code when I do make my purchase. This was pretty nice of them to do I guess and dropped the price of the Magnaflow XL Turbo Muffler Part #13148 with single in, duel out to a price of $55.04 shipped. So I changed my mind from a flowmaster, which I found that the magnaflow got a little better reviews on. Price was a little better as well.
Muffler_Size.jpg

With that done, I decided a flex pipe was needed after the header and picked this up for $21.00
Pipe.jpg

Still waiting on engine from machinist and should be ready on the 3rd of July as planned. Dropped off the brass freeze plugs and my flywheel for grinding. $25 for flywheel grinding.

I have wire brushed both intake manifolds and checked the price for the heliarc on the gen 2 manifold. I will be doing the prep before the welding work since the price was not in my mind, worth it. I hope to get him down to about 50-60 bucks for all the holes filled and fixing the broken casting where the distributor bolts to. If not, I still have my stock manifold.
I am wire brushing the head now and it looks much better. I'll post some pics when it is completed.

[BradMph]

Better pictures of Gen 1 & Gen 2 compared intakes.
gen1gen2.jpg

Ports on Gen 1 cast have a very bumpy texture.
Gen 2 are noticeably smoother
intakePorts.jpg


Never noticed this angle either on the intake. I imagine it is to counter the angle the engine sits in the bay on the mounts?
carbmountangle.jpg

[BradMph]

Head is finished being cleaned and is ready for install when motor completed
FinishedHead.jpg
Carb & Intake cleaned, Replacing accelerator pump diaphram and all carb gaskets on 28th.
Finishedcarb_intake.jpg

[BradMph]

Waiting for the engine from the machine shop. Cleaned up the engine bay, photo taken late at night with a flash and doesn't show detail. Took a scrub brush to the place and re-skirted the sides since the old rubber was falling off. Painted with some rust inhibitor just to be safe and then glossed with some black. Rebuilding carb while I wait since I got the parts. Had to order pressure controller for my air compressor since it leaked. I hope it shows up in next couple days. Clutch is in, but not installed. Just buying time now. I have a feeling when it's all done and put together, I'm going to be a little hesitant to start it. I'm sure everyone has that moment like, did I do everything right, is everything tight, my settings set. Head bolts installed correctly, sort of eats at you I guess until you turn the key.
I am deciding on engine color, nothing fancy. I know a red block with a silver head and black headers would look clean, but I probably will go with a black block so dirt doesn't show. Do the head with a grey and pulleys in red. The headers would be sort of a waist to paint, but I may try that 2000 degree paint in a silver or match the head. I'll probably wrap them after the paint cooks. I know those bastards will get things hot under the hood and It is a main concern to keep things from melting.
enginebay.jpg

[Acuta73]

May I suggest a block color that actually shows oil leaks? There's a lot of Chrysler/Chevy orange engines here for a reason. It looks decent and shows leaks. Yeah, you gotta clean it more often, but there's always a trade-off.

NaviStar/Cummins Red or the like will look great, and show leaks...but more maintenance.

Just my .02

Just make a checklist for final assembly, and follow it. You will stress less. But I agree, turning the key for the first time on a fresh build has a high pucker factor.

[LSR Mike]

May I suggest..

[recian]

Mike I think you look for opportunities to show off your shiny engine :D I'm thinking of going with hemi orange when I do my diesel engine.

[mopar_ja]

Is that a custom built scatter shield?

[BradMph]

Thanks Acuta73, I could always use suggestions, I know the black hides leaks too. Maybe a lighter gray in between the header color and black. I like when the blocks are the color of the vehicle it sits in. It looks like it belongs there when it matches I'm not into oranges and yellows that much, those are great American Car colors though. Actually my Celica I owned had a bright yellow block and it looked great. I like red, but a darker shade of the truck's California Red.
I picked up some 2000 degree ceramic paint yesterday and painted header. Looks just like a Ceramic coated header...for now. I noticed on the paint can it says that its intermittent high temp resistant. Just as long as it's not too heavily painted, it should last long enough to take a snap shot. lol The head will be painted this silver ceramic color also.
I'm not sure if I will go with the bright red color Mike has there, Looks like it needs to be in a fire engine or Santa Claus's sleigh.
Mike, you definitely know how to detail those details bud. Damn that motor is friggin crispy clean and shiny. Looks good enough to be put up on the mantle in the house. What do you do when you hit your first mud puddle after all that work?. When I get ready for an engine swap, I know where I'm headed. I noticed the electric lift you have there also, Nice.

Well the schedule for my engine to be finished is delayed to next Friday. I expected it since this shop is so busy. Usually you can tell how good a business is by how busy they are. They are very busy, but the owner always has a little time to give me honest details. It's nice to walk thru the shop and see what they have. No one is standing around and they are all polite.
They turned the flywheel and didn't charge me for it because of the added time to the rebuild. Looks perfect...
finishedclutch.jpg
that is the new F1 clutch stuff also.

Here is the header with the ceramic paint. My Magnaflow muffler has been ordered from AutoAnything and is OTW here. They are going to send me a signed Mario Andretti Racing poster also since you get one for a limited time if you order anything from Magnaflow. lol we'll see if it shows up.
paintedheader.jpg

Carb is all rebuilt and finished. Since I have this extra time now, I am going to take head apart, check... then lap the valves, then put new valve guide seals in.
Took my MR2 to be smog checked yesterday. Friggin flunked the idle HC test. Seems strange since this is the last year it will have to do this. I'm pretty sure I will need to splice in a Cat to pass the next try. It re-test will be free, but the papers from a AES check station won't be. They can get $150 from me before they will waive another failed test, bastages. Here are my readings.

Cruise Results
LIMIT / TEST RESULTS
RPM LIMIT 2750

HC(ppm) 400 / Tested @ 225 PASSED @ 2660 rpms
CO(%) 3.0 / Tested @ 1.07 PASSED @ 2660 rpms
CO+CO2(%) NA / Tested @ 13.71 @ 2660 rpms
O2(%) NA / Tested @ 6.4 @ 2660 rpms



Idle Results
LIMIT / TEST RESULTS
RPM LIMIT 1100

HC(ppm) 400 / Tested @ 600 FAILED @ 660 rpms
CO(%) 3.0 / Tested @ 1.43 PASSED @ 660 rpms
CO+CO2(%) NA / Tested @ 11.09 @ 660 rpms
O2(%) NA / Tested @ 6.4 @ 660 rpms

[BradMph]

Grinded and lapped in all the valves today and they looked surprisingly nice before I started. Though now they all have a nice seal and with new valve guide seals. Checked oilers and they looked good also, but ran wire through the rocker oilers to be sure they are clean. All the valves were straight with hardly any visible wear as I checked them, but the place that I got the head from a few years back had the rocker assembly bushings torqued down extremely tight. This created some fine grooves on the center rocker assembly bushing and a little on the cam. I'll run some 1200 grit on the high spots of the rocker assembly bushing and then spin the cam to smooth the matching grooves. I was planning on sending the cam to Oregon next month anyway to have some work done to help benefit from the weber, plus the header and new exhaust that is going to be installed. In hopes to squeeze a couple more horses out of this tear down.
I didn't want to buy a valve spring compressor for a one time use, so I went to O'Reilly's Auto and got a free loaner tool. It looked like this...
compressor.jpg
As I was working along nicely, lol...one of the exhaust springs and cap decided to exit the tool. The spring flew into the garage door and the cap went the opposite way into the wall. Sort of made me laugh as I was thinking, "I am sure glad it wasn't a strut spring". The tools actually work well for the job and I couldn't beat the price for using it. Free!

[BradMph]

Got my Magnaflow Muffler the other day and doesn't it look Purdy?
Magnaflow_Muffler.jpg

Called the shop day before yesterday on the motor and it might be ready today. He had cranked finished and block bored and was waiting for pistons and rings from LA. It's getting close and the truck is all ready for the install. I will have to put all the seals in the engine and paint it before it gets the rest of the stuff put on. I'll probably head to muffler shop sometime today and see if they can bend header down an inch or two. I'm sure I will get the normal muffler shop whining they do when you ask for custom work. It seems that they always think of all the negatives of the job instead of the basics. It's all about money and this is their sales pitch to squeeze ever dime from you. Once they start doing that I just look at the next muffler shop down the street and that usually gets them a little more motivated, lol. Tell me that it can't be done? gimme the torch I'll do it for you, lol. Anyway, we'll be a little busy today I hope.

[BradMph]

Today was a great day!
I got my motor back from the machinist and it looks perfect. Put it on the engine stand and will start the process of going over all their work. I will be checking the torque settings they used and following up on each bolt and nut to reassure nothing was missed during the rebuild. All surfaces have been ground flat and new bearings placed in where required. The balance shaft needs to be installed back in, also the oil pump and plates. The seals that were not removed or installed for the build will be completed by me. I need to clean some gaskets off a few pieces because these items were not part of the rebuild. The shop was nice enough to remove all the extra items I left on motor and they cleaned a painted the parts that come painted from factory. The shop did forget to box my water pump up with the rest of the parts and they were notified. I will pick it up in morning.
Tomorrow I will start taking photos of the reconstruction steps through the build and install back into truck. It will take time because I do not want to miss one step and pay for it later. I still need to have header modified so it fits under floor board without hitting it.
I'm going to contact Delta Cam (Jon Bodwell) here in Washington for a cam upgrade and get some work done on this. I just can't stick the cam back in the engine with even the slightest groove scored on it like I found, after all this work been done. I'll see what they recommend is best.
Anyway, I'll post some images up tomorrow.

[BradMph]

Ok, here are some images of block. All shiny and new, actually it looks better then when it was brand new!
Some are fuzzy, but there will be more later. I got all the rest of my parts. He had more then I thought, lol. Now I think I can start to puzzle this thing back together.
engineblock.jpg
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[BradMph]

pump plate.jpg
When I picked up the block from the machinist, they removed the balance shafts. The left balance shaft was kept installed on the front case, so this is not an issue on reinstalling. In one manual it says to repack the oil pump gears with petroleum jelly before installation, so this is one question I have.

The next is...On the right silent shaft. After sliding the shaft into the block, the fit is good but what keeps this shaft centered in the block housing. There doesn't seem to be a thrust plate of any kind on either side of the shaft. What keeps the shaft from shifting into the block and hitting the back inside of the inner block and keep the belt gear from hitting the plate as the shaft spins? Is there a locking nut that maintains the shafts position in the block I am missing?

Plate assembly with parts
PlateShaftspump_assembly.jpg

Blow up of the left balance shaft seal on plate with balance shaft installed.
It is obvious that once the shaft is in the block the seal is not in contact with the shaft and the new seal shown is exactly like the old one. The manual also does not show the gear that is suppose to be placed on the end of this shaft, but I have it as shown in the above image of parts. What keeps the gear from scoring the plate since there is no outer or inner thrust washer and what seals the oil from leaking out of this area?.
seal_endshaft.jpg

This last image is of the oil pickup tube. Is there a "O" ring for this or is it just the gasket?
I found no "O" ring shown in the manuals, so I installed using RTV high temp silicone and the gasket that came with kit.
OilPump_gasket.jpg

[BradMph]

Went into my ASA Mitsubishi program and found the bushing that the manual doesn't show. I have seen this part in the box of stuff I got back from shop but 1st time I tried it seemed too small to slide onto shaft end. This will also be the same part that makes the seal also.
This is the bushing circled in red and the gear is shown too. Glad I have this ASA software, it shows what many manuals just don't.

bushing.gif

[pennyman1]

heat the bushing up in a toaster oven then slide it onto the shaft. Use gloves or pliers to handle the hot bushing.