Thanks Pennyman, we got it to fit.
2.0G63B.jpg
2.0G63B_2.jpg
Tonight we install intake, rear plates and I hope the clutch. I want to aim for tomorrow install back into truck.
Thanks Pennyman, we got it to fit.
2.0G63B.jpg
2.0G63B_2.jpg
Tonight we install intake, rear plates and I hope the clutch. I want to aim for tomorrow install back into truck.
Got a lot done tonight, but didn't get the clutch installed. No big deal that will only take 45 minutes. Got to get that header down to the muffler shop though. Been procrastinating, but I can't anymore. Soon as header goes on...I'm going to drive it uncapped to muffler shop to have the magnaflow welded on. Should sound pretty good with duel out.
Here are some more images of all sides so far. I hope it stays this clean for a little while after I install it in the truck.
motor_rightfront.jpgmotor_front.jpg
motor_carbside.jpgmotor_rear.jpg
Got bored and made this from my documenting video.
Sent the header to muffler guys yesterday and picked it up today all fixed. They decided not to bend the #2 and 3 pipe, but to remove the old one and replace it with another piece to specs that I asked for. Here is a before and after of the work.
Header_BeforeAfter.jpg
They said when I get the truck running to bring it down to have the exhaust finished which they quoted $100 to install my muffler and put the duel exhaust tips on.
Engine and header look awesome. It'll be a shame to get them dirty lol
You're moving right along and I did watch some of the video and I got bored also. lol
It looks nice and clean.
lmao Rick, thanks bud I know I did too. hahahah too funny. I guess I am putting members through pain huh!. Can't stop laughing though.
Motor is in the truck, Got to install starter and plugs and header and some wires. I think I am procrastinating this startup. You all know
that twitch in your arsk you get starting a fresh engine up. I hate to compare it to what would happen if you sat on a lemon, but I'm sure it is just about the same thing.
Well, if it crashes...that old line will be heard....I COULD OF HAD A V8!
Got her started tonight and it ran great. Still have to adjust valves, fix electric fan, have magnaflow muffler installed, install some new bucket seats.
First 7 minutes of rebuilt G63B
Sounds great so far, awesome job. But do want to know why you running the vac gauge just to see or is there a future upgrade.
Yep,, sounds like an old tractor.
20 inch of vacume must be a stock cam.
You need to hook up the PCV or you will wind up with water in the oil over time.
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I run the vacuum gauge for engine health reasons. It can tell you many things if used correctly. The gauge I have is a basic version but it does the work it suppose to. There are other models that have colored areas on the dial face for diagnosing problems and fuel usages, timing, etc. Very simple gauge to install and has many good features to keep an eye on when your engine is running. I feel it's just as important as the oil pressure gauge in many cases. When pulling a trailer it can show how hard your vehicle is working to pull the trailer, even on a flat surface compared to driving with no trailer. Mine was reading a little low in the video. When the engine has seated itself and put some wear in the new parts it should end up being right at 21 and no fluctuations. Before the rebuild the truck symptoms were #2 & #3 shown below. Along with harder starting and what not. #3 confirmed my issues for my rebuild.
An engine is just a big air pump anyway and what else to tell you what your pump is doing then a vacuum gauge.
CHART OF VACUUM READINGS
Indication of Engine Condition
Smooth and steady idle
(800 to 1200 RPM) Between 17 to 21 inches Engine is in Good Condition, but perform next test to be sure.
1) Open and close throttle quickly Jumps from 2 to about 25 inches Engine is in Good Condition.
2) Smooth and steady idle Steady, but lower than normal reading Worn rings, but perform next test to be sure.
3) Open and close throttle quickly Jumps from 0 to 22 inches Confirms worn rings.
4) Steady idle Intermittent dropping back 3 or 5 divisions and returns to normal Sticky Valves.
If injection of penetrating oil into intake manifold temporarily stops pointer from dropping back, it's certain the valves are sticking.
5) Steady 3000 RPM Pointer fluctuates rapidly, faster engine speed causes more pointer swing, Weak valve springs.
6) Steady idle Fast fluctuation between 14 to 19 points Worn intake valve stem guides. Excessive pointer vibration at all speeds indicates a leaky head gasket.
7) Steady idle Constant drop Burnt valve or insufficient tappet clearance holding valve partly open or a spark plug occasionally miss firing.
8) Steady idle Steady 8 to 14 inches Incorrect valve timing. It must also be remembered that vacuum leaks and/or poor compression can result in a low vacuum reading.
9) Steady idle Steady 14 to 16 inches Incorrect ignition timing.
10) Steady idle Drifting from 14 to 16 inches Plug gaps too close or points not synchronized..
11) Steady idle Drifting 5 to 19 inches Compression leak between cylinders.
12) Steady idle Steady below 5 inches Leaky manifold or carburetor gasket, or stuck manifold heat control valve.
13) Steady idle Floats slowly between 12 and 16 inches Carburetor out of adjustment.
14) Blipping engine speed Quick drop to zero then return to normal reading Muffler is clear.
15) Blipping engine speed Slow drop of pointer then slow return to normal reading Muffler or Cat is choked or blocked.
Going to go with oil catch can most likely Camoit. Picks up all the water vapors into canister and stops throwing oil vapor into the cylinders and valves getting them crusty. The PCV valve hose coming out the side of valve cover is still hooked up to intake manifold as it was stock. I just filtered the other side for temporary which can leave moisture inside like you said. The truck doesn't seem to catch much water like my MR2. The MR2 catch can catches much more water then oil since the PCV is just an open tube and no ball check inside.Originally Posted by camoit
Yep,, sounds like an old tractor.
20 inch of vacume must be a stock cam.
You need to hook up the PCV or you will wind up with water in the oil over time.
The cam is being a little harder to locate at this time. Oregon Cam grinders only have a stock grind cams for mine, Delta Cam needs to be called because they don't answer email apparently and Cam Quest has a few grinds, but there for the twin cam 4G63 w/hyd lifter. Mine is G63B with adjustable flat tappet, no hyd lifters. Comp has a grind that pulls well in all RPMs and fits stock engines w/ or w/o a turbo. Though, I also don't want to pay out the nose for the cam either which some cam grinders think you should do.
Getting muffler installed Aug 2nd 8:00am.
Also think I might of found a drip at the new rear main seal. Not quite sure if it is residual oil from build or spun the seal. Anyway, not a hard fix to repair now that everything is attached. Few trany bolts and motor mount bolts to separate the motor. Everything else looks promising, no water leaks or intake and exhaust leaks.
Got the muffler installed and it has the tone of a V6. The shop did a nice job running off the header, but not welded to them. They inserted pipe over header and slid it pretty far inside. Then installed a locking mount so the pipe has no chance to vibrate loose or away from header. They moved the flex down a little farther and made a short duel dump just short of the rear axel. So my ass does not vibrate, but there is more throaty sound from the truck. Idle is quiet and throttle up is nice and strong sounding. Far from Rice Rocketry and no raspy cheap noise at all. Decelerations are where the head turning sound is strongest. Though the Magnaflow XL Turbo Muffler is a louder muffler, I put most of the sound increase on the header itself. I will run some video showing the install and idle, revs, and then take you for a short ride. I hope a flip camera can pick up the gut feeling it gives while driving.
A slow and easy drive with new muffler and header
I have to restrain myself from hard stops and starts. The better you treat your break in, the longer it will last.
Nice, sounds really good! you should see mine, I pieced it together from oreilly stuff so I got like 4 joints exhaust blows directly on the rear axle kind of acts like a diffuser.
Sounds good, but you probably will get tired of the drone under the box at 60Mph. My old system was like that and after a while the exhaust bouncing off the road and resonating under the box was annoying as hell. Easy fix if you get sick of it, just get some rear tubes made up to go over the axle and dump outside the box.
I am a little weary of the drone sound. I have not put it on the freeway yet and it has so many different tones as I drive it. I'm sure it will be nice to listen to for a while and I hope to get use to as time goes. It has such a beautiful tone from how it use to sound. Vibration is no problem since my hangers are all rubber mounted and it doesn't drown out my stereo at all, like my MR2 can do since the motor is about a foot away. The MR2 has a Pro AMA muffler on it which gives it a distinct low beefy tone that sounds like it has a bucket full of balls under the engine cover. I'm just going to have to see what kind of harmonics I get from it and if it does become a problem it won't be hard to change out the tips and add a couple feet. My tonneau cover will help a lot to keep the bed from creating a hollow drone sound like a speaker, but I'll just have to find out how much I can endure as time goes on.
It certainly didn't take you long to rebuild and put her back on the road, sounds nice and fresh.
I just changed my exhaust to dump out behind the right rear tire, my drive way "up" to my garage is gravel and quite dusty.
I'd wash it, dry it, drive it for 10 minutes then park it back in the garage and it's dirty again. The two things I dislike is automotive wiring and gravel driveways.
Take note: when you notice you're yelling at the spouse or a friend next to you on the freeway while the stereo is off. That's the drone sound
Fordubishi and I don't miss. Uh yeah your header must have worked out good, obviously. more ground clearance?
Yes, the muffler guy is a lifetime muffler man almost ready to retire and he noticed in his muffler manual the pipe was to go under the round frame support. He went over it and gave me a ton of room. I still have this habit though of rolling over bumps in a way to protect the old pipe, but I don't hear it clang it anymore.No more speed bumping on the transition of the pipe as it curved under the truck from the engine compartment. I had more repair welds done there then anything, but it is finally fixed right.
The motor has been great. There is not a drone where I can't communicate with a passenger comfortably with stereo on. It just has a low toned sound that could possibly become attractive to a bored highway patrol. I'm waiting for the first one to stop me to see why it sounds this way. I drive now like my parents did when I was growing up, so there is no reason to be bothered by the man. I have respectfully not been pulled over for a thing in the past 11 years now.(knock on wood, I surprise myself sometimes).
I am chasing an oil leak now and every time I check for it, it relocates. I definitely think my rear main seal is leaking which isn't bad to replace. I brain faded and forgot that special stuff that was suppose to be placed on the crank shaft seal plate piece. The one with the hole placed in it for bottom placement. Then my oem fuel pump block plate started leaking. Fixed that, then the valve cover gasket some how got folded over on the same side the first leak dripped on. So, I fixed that tonight, along with new wires, oil catch can, fuel filter. While working I noticed near oil filter a drip starting to collect. Silicone may fix this one though. The last bug I have is a sound that happens about mid 1st gear into 2nd and stops in 3rd gear. It sounds just like a loose bolt on the exhaust pipe. If I push in clutch and coast, or take out of gear it still makes the sound with no change. So I think I can rule out driveline. It made me think that a spring on the clutch plate was loosen somehow, but again the clutching has no effect on this sound. I'm going to lift truck rear and run the gears and see if I can capture the location to fix it. The rear main seal will be done last since it is not pouring out, but it does leave an impression of an old Harley Davidson on my driveway every time I stop.
Here is the latest images of the engine bay...
Engine_top.jpgEngine_side.jpgEngine_right.jpg
Oh, that's it pull the motor do a full rebuild, LOL.
wow wow wow. looks and sounds great man! i still need to do my exhaust up! thanks for posting your build and thanks again for finding the header. hope my header installation helped out how you modified yours!
Yes, yours helped a lot. Even though I had the one pipe replaced with one that accommodated the change from over and under to side by side, it still had to be heated and bent a little more for the muffler guys to slide the pipe over the header end. It no longer hits the floorboard and is about an inch away, enough for my heat shield to be placed back on.
Anyone ever see a build of an Ultra Short Bed done before?
I'm not doing one, just thought it would be a weird thing to see.
After checking right rear brakes for possibly not retracting correctly and causing a sticking brake feel, I did not see anything out of ordinary. I cleaned entire area and drum, removed self adjusters and freed them up to do their job better. I did notice there was a sticky residue on inside of drum and a little on brake shoes. It also was on the emergency brake self adjuster in the brake area only. Sooo, I think I have a wheel bearing seizing up. This would cause the sound also that I described about loose bolt on muffler. Wheel bearings will make clicking sounds when their time is up. I'll get one ordered and send it to my machinest to be pressed when I get one. If this is what the problem is.
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