So I was at a car show last night and I was talking to a guy about the air filter to put my MAF in so I could do a cold air on my truck and he said if I want to do a cold air I could do what the old porsche guys used to so. Cheese grate the bottom of my air box aka drill a bunch of holes in the bottom of it. My question is does anyone know if there is any truth to this working.
I cut the whole bottom of my air box out on my 90 Sidekick and made a huge difference in the mid range and top end not breathing through a straw.
So basically what your doing is by passing the filter. Suppose to put holes above filter so u dont suck crap in.
No, you're not bypassing the filter drilling the bottom, the air is sucked thru the filter from the top.Originally Posted by Uneek98
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Did the same thing to my Lincoln MK VIII when I had it.
If u make it up here, u can have my old air filter can. It's all there so if it doesn't work the way u want u have a replacement. It's free if u want it. I think u have the same model 90 that I do.
Cool beans. I feel bad for still not being able to make it up there, but currently I am jobless sadly otherwise I would say fuck it and rent a car if not take my truck up there
The factory box has a tube that runs from the box to the radiator support. It sucks in cold air as it is. I've seen guys run without MAFs and said the truck runs fine. Idk how it works. Otherwise you can make an adapter for the MAF to put a cone on. Not much else can be done. Get a 2.6 carb'd or a 2.3 diesel if you wana mod that. I'm going towards diesel
Stick a hose from an AC vent to the air filter for ultimate cold air intake.
That tube suck air thru a 1/4 inch gap 2 inches wide...not near enough for "good" breathing.The factory box has a tube that runs from the box to the radiator support. It sucks in cold air as it is. I've seen guys run without MAFs and said the truck runs fine. Idk how it works. Otherwise you can make an adapter for the MAF to put a cone on. Not much else can be done. Get a 2.6 carb'd or a 2.3 diesel if you wana mod that. I'm going towards diesel
you can buy a Cone air filter adapter for the MAF.
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Screw that brad I'd just put the tube into the truck and crank the a/c. The auto stores around here don't make adapters that fit the maf.
Cosmo racing has everything u need. Filter and maf adapter plate. Think it was $70.
Please correct me if i'm wrong, but I believe it's the same MAF adapter as the early 90's Galant and Eclipse and you can get those on ebay for like, $9.
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After I found what I assume is the correct MAF adapter, I spent some time trying to figure out how I'm going to build up a heat shield box around the cone filter and pipe some fresh air to it too. But after cleaning my filter and taking a closer look at the oem intake, I'm not so sure how much better I could make it and if it would be worth it. I did find that where the air duct (#2) runs behind the grille, I used to just think it ended with a metal wall with 2" of breathing space, but I think it's actually a piece of plastic with 2 button-like fasteners to it. It's like a little removable wall that's just right of the headlamp, and just above the AC lines. I think I'm going to remove it, put a screen on the end of the airduct, and I think that should make a mini ram air situation with that duct now getting air straight from behind the grille! I've seen pics of people running intercooler piping through that hole and i just assumed they had cut metal but I don't think that's the case.
Oh yea, and whats that big black corrugated-waffle box that the air cleaner housing sits on top of? I thought that was actually a part of the housing and thought it was an intake silencer but it just seems to be a podium for the cleaner to sit on, and it acts as a heatshield to my windshield wiper fluid??? i dunno
Its the same MAF design as the DSM's, so you can just use one of those cone filter adapters from ebay. Find them all day long.
The air is going to be coolant temp my friends, UNLESS you disconnect the hot water from thermostat housing AND into block/firewall at engine block. Also I removed the plastic block plate blocking the "ram air" tube (probably just a CAI tube since its only an inch or so clearance from the block plate). ANyways seems to run a little better at highway speeds, but the intake not being heated made the best tq increase (and gas mileage from the boosted low end tq).
What is he talking about?
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The attachments are only to route the water into the head water ports in the front and back, not to heat the Throttle Body? all the parts get hot from heat soak. My air intake temps are well below my water temp even with 23lbs of boost.
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Not sure. Either way, if you want to make a custom intake as stated before, the large oval style MAF can be adapted to fit a cone filter from ebay, search : eclipse MAF adapter or Oreillys carries speed by spectre, and they make one as well.
The "Block plate" in front of the air box assy can be easily removed, (as stated on another post). The little plastic block plate is 3" x 4" approx., and if removed, should help direct some more cold air into airbox. WHen I have time, I'm going to try something I read about in Kitplanes this wkend where a guy is using an adjustable pipe to make 2+ h/g of positive intake pressure in his airbox. You MAY can read it online, not sure. Its in this months "KITPLANES" magazine, however, pretty interesting, and if it could be adapted for our trucks, a big help on the highway, (though at 65mph its gonna be less pressure than at 150 mph, cruise of the RV.) Sportbikes have and still use this trick, however, for a measurable, and consistant, few hp (dyno proven), so it does work, for sure.
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I just cut off the whole box beneath the clip ring and added the K&N Stock Replacement. I'm not racing Evo's or anything, but it makes a difference in flow you can feel. 2nd pic shows my filter facing the hood. I've since flipped it back down to face the fenderwell. It's not a real clean install because of the baby sized cut wheel i used at the time, and never got around to making a bracket or anything, but I've enjoyed it.
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