5 lug hubs: the simple solution.

[foolonthehill]

Let's get this out of the way. SO MANY threads and articles have been done about Toyota hubs, brake modifications, etc, etc.
What a bunch of crap!
Want to get five lugs wheels on your truck? Moser Engineering will redrill your factory hubs and axles, all four of them, for $160.00. Done, done correctly, no hassles. Never worry about how you have to order parts, what weird hybrid of mis matched equipment you've created. Remove, send, pay, re-install, go down the road.
How simple can it be?
Now I have to admit, I was chasing the Toyota parts thing myself until I went to a dragstrip in Tennessee while my brother and I were searching for his old Pro Stock Hemi Duster last year. I saw a little 1st gen Mitsu truck running a Mopar V8, and noticed the five lug wheels he had on it and asked him if he had the Toyota hubs on it. He just looked at me funny and said, "no, I had Moser redrill the factory hubs and axles"...Bingo! Lights went off; bells rang, I called Moser, sure enough they do it for $80.00 an axle, (meaning front hubs or rear axles, per pair).
So there it is, no hassles, no muss, no fuss.
I hope that helps people. Moser is probably not the only folks who do that type work, and really, any competent machine shop should be able to do the job correctly...

[pennyman1]

what about the drums - who drills those? Or do you send them with the axles?

[4doorciv]

That is a very valid point on the drums. Some people want to swap to the Toyota rear end or the ford 8.8 for the option of going to rear disc brakes. What about when your drums are out of specifications and need to be replaced? Redrilling may not be best for the long run but I understand about the mix matched parts. As long as you know what you need and can remember it I'm sure you'll get by.

[turbomax]

I called Moser, sure enough they do it for $80.00 an axle, (meaning front hubs or rear axles, per pair).

huh. when I first looked at that option I thought it was $80 per axle shaft. I'll have to definitely do the rears now.

what about the drums - who drills those? Or do you send them with the axles?

they can do the drums to, but is extra. You could also swap Mitsubishi Van drums which are 5 lug and use the same brake shoes, so they must be the same diameter.

[foolonthehill]

If I were keeping the factory rear end, I'd probably get new drums to redrill, and that's a good question and point to bring up.
I am installing a Mopar 8.75 rear in my truck, because 1) I'm a Mopar guy and 2) because they take about 15% less H.P. to turn than a Ford 9" and finally, because there's an awsome disc brake bolt on kit for them for under $400.00 that includes everything.
I had bought a LSD (limited slip differential, Or Posi to you Chevy guys) for my truck, but knew the ratios available weren't what I needed. I was going to redrill the rear axle if I used that.
Now, with the 8.75 Mopar rear, I've got a 2:76 gear ratio, which means my engine will turn about 2,750 RPM at 80 M.P.H. on the highway. The truck weighs 2,700 lbs with the V8 in it. It doesn't need taller gears to get moving, quickly.

[pennyman1]

I know an A-body 8 3/4 rear fits with just spring perch mods width wise - at least 1 guy in the Pittsburgh area is running the setup under his 1st gen D-50 with a built Mopar 340 or 360, don't remember which.

[DroppedMitsu]

Wish you could have posted this a month ago before I sent my rear axles to a guy on another forum to get redrilled for $300.... oh well thanks for the info

[foolonthehill]

Ouch! Moser'll sell you custom length axles for that much!

[l.k.]

great news to find out....was starting my search for five lug....

thanks.

[pennyman1]

FYI - I did post the A body 8 3/4 rear info on the forum a few months ago in another thread; the A body 8 3/4 is not as common and therefore more money than other 8 3/4, but can take up to v8 Hemi power.

[foolonthehill]

Right- 8.75's are rare enough especially compared to 9" Ford's, the "A" body rear's even more so. I just drove a 10 hour round trip to buy two complete 8.75's. They're "B" body rears, so too wide, but I'm having them narrowed to exactly what I want. They are virtually indestructable, and as mentioned, take less H.P. than the Ford to turn.

[4doorciv]

Wow. Thats a far drive. Determination right there.

[l.k.]

foolonthehill....i can see that you are gonna have some sticky-threads for us.. since you have all this knowlege and experience..

[4doorciv]

They both do. But I'm sure it's more along the lines of "ask the right questions and the right answer will pop up" kinda thing.

[l.k.]

They both do. But I'm sure it's more along the lines of "ask the right questions and the right answer will pop up" kinda thing.

and im sure that a lot of right questions will be asked along the way..

the moser info was great btw...thanks again

[Payrion]

what do ya do about the large hub?...5 lug rims still wont fit without boring them out will they?

[pennyman1]

Interesting question - it depends on the wheels you are using - never thought about that myself. A redrill alone will not solve the large hub issue...

[DroppedMitsu]

The toyota front hubs have a small hub on them, my aftermarket rims fit on no problem. The back axles would have the hub/centering ring turned down by whoever redrills them, that's what is being done to mine.

[Payrion]

i thought about the redrill and having the hub turned down for the front....but the back i never really thought much cause id like to have disk, so a toyota swap would be in order..

[74Dusted]

I think i know which guy you're talking about with the 340 powered D50. Not him personally, but the guy who helped him build the truck.

Yeah the A-Body 8-3/4" fetches a decent price tag, and the bolt pattern for it is 5 on 4" (not the more common 5 on 4.5" or 5 on 5.5"), which means new Axleshafts if you want a different bolt pattern.

I've got an A-Body 8-3/4" under my '71 426 Hemi Demon, it came with a 489 Chunk/Center Section (the desireable chunk) Open-3.23's. Last time i bought a 8-3/4" i paid $150 total for the Housing, Axle Shafts, and 2 Chunks (489 Sure Grip 3.23 and a 741 Sure Grip 3.23) It was a B-Body 8-3/4 (3" Wider than the A-Body, 1.5" per side) I installed that under my '74 Duster and robbed the Backing Plates & Hardware from an 8-1/4" Rear.

At one time i did have a 4.10 geared 489 Sure Grip Chunk in my Duster, but i had a hard time keeping the front wheels on the ground, so i swapped to 3.23's.

Also the Dodge Dakota (Earl7 Dak's, the first 2 or 3 years i beleive) ran 5-Lugs and the Rear is about 2" wider than the stock D50 rear. Should be a Chrysler 8.25" Rear, although i've heard some stories about 7.25's showing up in them too.

[foolonthehill]

Whoa! I just got a kick in the gut, or backside, or maybe both! So we finally got my front hubs sent to Moser, and guess what? NO DICE! After the guy in Tennessee told me Moser redrilled his hubs, after corresponding with a Moser Tech guy, Moser comes back and tells me the way the Mitsu front hubs are designed, they can't redrill.
I wanted to get this out as quick as I could and save anyone else the hassle.
I screwed up, and I appologize for passing on incorrect information!
Now, off to find the right model Toy hubs, I've got 15" 5 on 4.5 wheels on the way!...

[DroppedMitsu]

Might as well get Toyota front hubs anyways. You can get the hubs from a junkyard for much cheaper then getting the Mitsu hub redrilled, and the wheel bearings are the exact same size(ID) as the mitsu spindle is so everything bolts right up.

[foolonthehill]

I'm guessing this is just the old Toyota HiLux type pickup?

[DroppedMitsu]

Yes, I believe the years are 89-95. And I used 95.5-01? Tacoma rotors. Shimmed the caliper with like a 1/16" washer or somewhere around there, you'll be able to figure the exact amount pretty easily.

[turbomax]

Here's a more detailed swap info. The link is from the old board.
http://www.mightyram50.net/phpbb3/vi...70&t=267#p1515