So i just inhereted my grandpas ram 50 and ive been entertaining the thought of tossing a dohc head on it to try and get a little hp and make it more efficent for a better dd so im justwondering if anybody has done it or if its even possible im new to the mitsu world always been a mopar man and ive got a couple neons so the 4cyl is no stranger so if anybody knows anything about head swaps between the 8v and 16v sohc to dohc id be greatful
should keep you busy for a while...
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ap-information
http://www.projectzerog.com/
http://www.dsmtalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=72032
awesome thanks
new question has anybody had hard starting issues? it seems the iac position sensor is junk as unplugging it made it start better but when the engine is cold it takes forever for it to start as in 5 minutes and finally it will sputter to life and die repeatedly until it starts to get warm then it will try and idle almost like the choke is broken if it were carb'd but when warm it runs awesome and starts right back up
Water temp sensor
are there two? one for the ecu and one for the dash? i was thinking it could be something along that line but wasn't sure and haven't looked too hard at the truck. I have the full FSM for the truck what isn't in japanese that is lol. I'm going to try giving it fuel to see if it helps start and oil in the cylinders to see if it helps with compression but im leaning towards just a lean issue when it's cold. Besides that i was wondering if anybody knows off the top of their head if it is a 6 or 7 bolt because that seems to be the biggest difference between any 4g6x motor and head pattern, but out of all of the info i'm digging through i cannot find what my 4g64 is
Yes there are two sensors as you speculate. the switch between 6 bot to 7 bolt was in the 92 model year, so if you haven't had a swap, you're a 6 bolt. you can also taker your VIN to a dealer parts counter and they will tell you your build date.
The manuals section on this site has the Mitsu books and the Haynes manual, both good references.
It should be a 6 bolt as Mike has stated, should not matter for a head swap though, as your going to need all the new head sensors and wires to make it work anyway. The head itself will differ from a 1G to a 2G (DOHC DSM), but not from the crank difference.
awesome thanks guys ill let you know how it goes getting it running right but the swap is not going to be for a while likely one to two years away
well i finally got to mess with the truck and put in a new sensor and found out there is a third sensor for coolant besides the one on top (2 wire) one on the side right next to that one(1 wire) and forward of that one is another 2 wire with a white plug that im not sure what it goes to and i looked at the truck at the jy and theres only 2 sensors the third one on my truck is just plugged on the truck in the jy so any insight on this before i dive into my fsm would be awesome
Got the truck to start but its not rich enough when i start it i have to spray starting fluid in the intake to get it to start until it warms up so any ideas before i tear into it? anybody else have that problem?
Heres a couple pics i thought id throw up to show yall what ive got
Nice Macro cab, don't let that truck go to waste the ext cabs are rare. Sory I can't be of help I haven't owned a 2.4. Maybe I can go check out my buddies 2.4 after wrk and let you know
So since I have now taken posession of the truck I've had time to play with it a bit. The truck does not start cold unless I spray starting fluid in the intake, and will not idle once started until it warms up a little. At this point the idle air control is suspect since it does not have a high idle when it's cold or when i turn on the a/c and then the IAC would not function like a choke to allow it to start cold.
Here is the sensor I was talking about earlier
the sensor with the black on top in the center is the one i replaced and the one lower down to the right with the white plug is the one in question
brad this is a 1990 and is a mfpi engine not carb'd no vehicle in america newer than 1987 has a carb and most ended in 1986 although you can find 1987 vehicles with a carb anything newer was swapped and I'm keeping my mpfi its more driveable efficent and reliable than a carb. I'm saying that from experience as a carb owner in my other 3 dodge trucks and as an auto student through all of high school i just wish i had a 1996 with obd2
I cant see any of the pics at work ill have to check them at home. See what your talking about. This is not a swapped DOHC though, no yet right? Its still the stock 4G64 sohc?
The last vehicle that was carbureted in the usa that was sold new was the 1994 isuzu pickup truck I remember seeing that in motor trend years ago
Gm last vehicle was 1990, ford and chrysler(jeep) in 1991.
No the truck is bone stock the dohc is just an idea at this point
So ive got another issue the truck has had and just came back. At cruise be it 25mph or 55mph the truck will buck like im repeatedly tapping on the throttle but im holding steady and i dont have cruise and ac is off going in a straight line, so any ideas? Im gonna delete egr and other emissions bs here soon maybe some of it sooner like egr and evap but cat will wait until later so if one of those(mainly egr) is the cause, ill get on that asap
Clean your injectors.
1990 MM 4x4 3.0
1991 MM 4x4 3.0 Diamonte
1994 MM 2wd (work in progress)
Have you done a compression test? Also have a leak down test done.
That truck looks like mine.....luv it. Mine currently has the engine out on a stand.
I know just enough to be very dangerous, so I'll limit my response. Kewl interior.
check the tps
Almost every FI vehicle that sits for an extended period without running will have clogged or partially clogged injectors. What does it have for top end speed? When I first got my 91 running, it couldn't do 70 and also bucked at any speed over about 30. Four of the six injectors had less than 50% capacity, had them cleaned and it runs as smooth as can be.
1990 MM 4x4 3.0
1991 MM 4x4 3.0 Diamonte
1994 MM 2wd (work in progress)
It has top end just fine but it bucks at 2400rpms exactly when cruising and also realized its rollin coal like a diesel when i get heavy in the throttle and gets im guessing 10mpg right now
i come from a line of mechanics and ive been working on them for my entire life been to school a bit for them so im fairly proficient just tryin to get some ideas and hopefully someones had a similar issue before to make it easier but im still trying to run some tests and this weekend ill be testing the block to see if the head is cracked and doing compression and leakdown testing to make sure everything is good before i go trying to fix everything because getting the surge fixed wolnt do me any good if the head is garbage
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks