Roy's Garage: '90 2.4-4G64 5-spd D-50

[royster]

23,000 miles and still working hard for me.

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Turning THIS...

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Into THIS

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[geezer101]

Always good to see someone rolling up their sleeves and tackling the bigger jobs around the place by themselves - you're a busy guy Roy! And you're surrounded by some magnificent countryside.

[royster]

The project is just about finished. And thanks, Neil

This photo was taken back in June.

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[royster]

Hey, for those who don't get e-mails from Rock Auto, here's some stuff you might want to grab while you can. LOTS of offerings.

Hello Roy,

We have a limited number of wholesaler closeout parts available for your 1990 MITSUBISHI MIGHTY MAX, 1990 DODGE RAM 50 and possibly other vehicles you work on. Wholesaler closeout parts come from manufacturers, retailers or distributors who, for whatever reason, decided to reduce or liquidate inventory. We pay less for these parts and can offer them to RockAuto customers at bargain prices. Some of these products were discontinued by manufacturers and may be hard to find after these closeout parts are sold. If you're planning for future repairs or if you've postponed maintenance, now is a great time to buy the parts you need!

The links below display the wholesaler closeout parts available for your vehicles. Wholesaler closeout parts are also listed in the RockAuto catalog alongside our regular inventory.

Wholesaler closeouts for your 1990 MITSUBISHI MIGHTY MAX:
http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclef...l=en&html=true

Wholesaler closeouts for your 1990 DODGE RAM 50:
http://www.rockauto.com/RSS/vehiclef...l=en&html=true

We regularly add new wholesaler closeout parts to the RockAuto catalog. We will send an update email like this one, covering up to three of your vehicles, at most once every three months. To be notified immediately when a closeout part for your vehicle is added to our catalog, sign up for our RSS feed by clicking an icon in our catalog.

Enjoy the savings, and thanks for being a RockAuto customer!

Tom Taylor
Vice President, Marketing



www.RockAuto.com

[royster]

PONY GETS A DIFFERENT LOOK

A friend had a camper shell laying around his barn, and gave it to me...free. It's just a lightweight aluminum shell, but it will keep rain off tools and equipment. I will miss my lumber racks...I liked how they looked...but this even allows me to actually camp out if I want to.

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[pennyman1]

I had a cap on Geronimo way back when, and I bought it with a boat rack on it - it allowed me to move ladders easily. It was attached to the heavy metal bead on the front and back corners.

[royster]

That's pretty much the modification I have in mind for this one...I need to be able to carry a ladder, and occassionally a 10 foot something-or-other.
The little guy just turned 240,000 a couple days ago, happy as can be.

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EDIT:
The camper shell process is on another thread http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...-Royster-Shell

[royster]

Happy anniversary to me...26,000 miles on the truck, and three years on the forum. What a learning experience it's been, and how thankful I am to all of you who patiently helped me to learn here.

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[EL.95MAX]

^^^^nice

[Mrmontebuilder uilder]

Royster, the truck came out really nice!!! Thanks for all your documentation, it is something I am frequently referring back to as I progress through repairs and upgrades on my D-50. Thanks again!!!

[royster]

Wow, I appreciate the shout.

I came into this blind, and had to grope my way through a lot of stuff...but guys on the forum helped me through and I learned a ton about these engines. I've often thought to condense my experiences to a more manual form, but time has never allowed that. Glad that, just as it is, my thread has helped you.

[royster]

Rear Brake Overhaul
It was long overdue, and I wasn't going to get through inspection this year without it. As it turns out, many of the parts were pretty tired, and the shoes, themselves, were very ready for replacing...even though they still had plenty of meat.
BELOW:
With the drums off, the passenger's side before dismantling. I'm glad I got all parts and hardware for this project - re-using old springs or adjusters is risky business.

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BELOW:
All shoes and hardware off (including wheel cylinders) (driver's side), the backing plate ready to be washed. (I capped off the fluid lines before washing to keep water from getting into the system). I used "Awesome" first, rinsed with water (from a garden sprayer) then did a final rinse with brake cleaner spray. Later photos from the right side show the clean-up.

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BELOW:
Shoes and hardware installed.

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Next post I'll show the procedure - it might help someone in the future...there are a couple points the Haynes manual doesn't even mention that are pretty crucial.

[royster]

Brake Overhaul - preamble
First, when you start out on this project, get some J. B. Blaster or Liquid Wrench parts-loosener on the brake fluid line fittings and the wheel cylinder bolts. I did this two days in advance, to give it plenty of time to work. I performed two applications, one just before working on the project.

Second, do NOT try to get those brake lines off without using a brake wrench...it looks like a box-end with a small gap, to allow the wrench to slip over the brake line, and gives maximum grip on the fitting. This truck uses a 10 MM brake wrench.
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Attempting to use anything but a brake wrench on the line fittings guarantees you will end up trying to use a vise grip, because you WILL strip the fitting heads using a crescent-end wrench. And that means replacing the brake lines. You can buy just the single wrench in many places, or a small set for not much money.

The Haynes manual will walk you through taking off the old shoes and hardware. You might do well to set them off to the side, in the configuration they were in, for visual reference. (I had the luxury of my parts-truck differential to resource placement).
BELOW:
The backing plate all cleaned. I sprayed Awesome, then used a small wire brush to scrub everything. Be sure to cap off the brake line with a rubber fitting or something appropriate for keeping water out of the line...water in the hydraulic system can heat up inside the wheel cylinders and expand, binding up the brakes.
After the Awesome I used brake spray cleaner for a good rinse.
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Once everything was wiped down and dried, I sandpapered the contact points on the backing plate (that the brake shoes slide on), and reasonably greased them. Take note that the driver's side wheel cylinder does NOT have a bleeding nipple: the line to the passenger side is the upper connection, so if you order the set of wheel cylinders, be sure to note that only ONE has a bleed nipple, and you can be sure that is the passenger side.

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Next was to install the wheel cylinder...I opted to fit the brake line FIRST, then mounted the cylinder snugly before tightening the brake line fully. (I removed the driver's side wheel cylinder first, and rebuilt that side before going to the passenger side. During that process it's important to keep an eye on your brake fluid level in the reservoir).

It's helpful to have a short box to lay the parking brake connection on while attaching it to the brake shoe.

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Note the horse shoe clamp: I neglected to crimp the ends together (I was distracted with photography!), and it fell out once everything was in place. I was able to re-install it, with enough room to crimp it tight, without having to take everything apart.

Also note some grease on the pivoting points, and the Haynes manual suggests you put a bit of grease on the wheel cylinder shoe contacts. Anywhere there's movement, you want grease *ahem*.

Next, the self-adjuster goes on. There is another horse shoe clip that comes with the brake hardware set, and there is a groove it fits in. Note the spring placement.
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Please bear with my difficulties in this post: I'm working with a new system, and getting the photos right takes a hit-and-miss effort. In the two photos above, the picture on the right is absent the small blue spring...that spring is visible in the left photo. That little spring holds the self-adjuster arm in place, and there is no mention of it in the Haynes book. Getting that spring in place before securing the brake shoe to the backing plate is important, as there's no way to do it once the shoe is mounted. The photo below may or may not help you with the placement: this is looking on the back-side of the shoe, to show the spring secured to the shoe itself - the flat part of the spring connects to the top of the adjuster arm.
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Those parts secured, the shoe is then swung up into position. There are grooves on the bottom mounting in which the shoe fits into...
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I used small bungee cords to hold the shoe in place, while I got the hold-down spring installed (it requires both hands).

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BELOW- The other shoe is first held in place with the hold-down spring, the bungee cord helps with that. The top spring is then secured to the top of the shoe. Getting that top spring into position is a real effort, keeping everything aligned.
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[royster]

Next is to condition the drums and put them on, so I can bleed the hydraulic system, then adjust the brakes. I asked at a local shop how much they wanted to turn drums, and the answer was $30 each. Ouch!! I'll sandpaper-scruff them up, enough to break glaze and smooth down any high spots.

I had bought paint for the drums, but time won't allow for that detail. Also, I've come to the realization that I'm done spending long hours and deep dollars for details that few will notice...and what benefit is it if they DO notice? Answer: three seconds of "oh wow" then they're back to texting about belly buttons. In my old age, I just want to keep the truck operating in good order, keep it looking reasonably respectable, and enjoy reliability.

In regards to cleaning the backing plate: I have been in professional shops and witnessed the mechanic not bothering to clean off the backing plate, putting new brake shoes over dirt and gunk, re-using old springs, and generally not giving a damn about the job. The beauty of our being able to work on these trucks ourselves is that we CAN do clean repairs and maintenance, and know the job was done well.

This brake overhaul cost me near $80, all from RockAuto, so almost half of that cost was shipping. Advance doesn't even OFFER brake hardware for these trucks, and NAPA is more expensive than I can justify. All of us on this forum KNOW about waiting for parts.

But good things come to those who wait

Thanks for letting me share yet another adventure with my D-5o.

Roy

[royster]

Road tested, everything is working well. I'm going to do a final bleed, and a final adjustment, now that the new hardware and shoes have had a chance to seat.

[royster]

Just a couple of photos of the truck today: it's firewood season, so the camper shell is off. It reminds me of when I first saw the truck, some 4 years ago.

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[royster]

Having trouble downloading...

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[royster]

Oh, heck - I missed posting on my "Join Date" anniversary. I got to thinking, today, that when I joined, I couldn't figure out how to find the type engine I have.

Man, have I come a long way !

As always, much gratitude for all of you on this forum.

In recent truck news, I changed the oil, and was going to replace a radiator hose due to a leak I noticed on top of the radiator. Turns out to be the seam needs re-soldering. I also have a master cylinder leak, so that needs addressing very soon.

Other than that, the truck has been just great, giving good service.

[GotToGo]

You're my idol.

[GotToGo]

Merry Christmas!

[royster]

Merry Christmas!

Many thanks, GotToGo

I'm not sure how or why, but this thread has almost 80,000 views. Not bragging, more like stunned that I could come in here as a know-nothing and get that many views.

It's a great forum with great people.

[dash]

good job on the truck!
on the brake lines.... I have the flare wrench, and they too have slipped on the reeaalllly stubborn line fittings
For years now, I've gone straight to the vice grip, once the regular 10mm doesn't crack the line with a li'l effort.
Tighten the vice grip 'just the right amount' and it never damages the fitting. Then the wrench goes on fine. Works everytime

[claych]

^^^
Yes a great truck & build !!

[royster]

BJH324JH asked about jack placement - it secures under the driver's side, the base of the jack towards the tailgate. I tried to get a photo from the owner's manual, but it came out blurry.

Under the passenger's side there is a clamp for the lug wrench and wheel nut ("wheel nut" being the mechanism that holds the spare tire).

Hope that helps ya !

For the record, the truck just turned 250,000 miles.

[royster]

I want to shout out a "thank you" for the overall Good Will of the forum, and to thank camoit for his work to keep it respectable and moving forward.

Particularly, a repeat "thank you" to ragragtimetime, who brought me into the digital age...along with my sister, who gave me a laptop last year for my 60th birthday. Some might remember that I used an analog camera for posting, which required sending the film out to be developed. Ragragtimetime practically gave me his old digital camera, and I actually figured out how to use it.

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I actually still use that camera, although the Kodak digital's memory chip works in the laptop.

Because of this Good Will, I'm able to share and contribute. I'm quite grateful for that. I never expected to be much on this forum, other than a dumb guy asking stupid questions.

I'm STILL a dumb guy asking stupid questions, but they're illustrated better, these days

Thanks, each and every one of you ~

Roy

P.S.
I'm not sure what to tell you about all that moss growing on my computer and desk...


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