Merrill's 4G64 DOHC.

[Merrill]

Not a ton of progress lately. We have been swamped with new orders and builds. I have been collecting more parts and have repaired a few small fixes - nothing big.

The last owner sure didn't know what he was doing with it. The base timing was set at over 20* Adv. You could hear it detonating on a hard pull in every gear. It's insane though that it kept on running so well. I am averaging 30-32 MPG now which is awesome.


Here is a quick shot of the bump stops removed for reference. Like I posted above, you can reuse the split washer and nut from the bump stops as long as you get the same size hardware (12mm x 1.25 x 40mm). Make sure you add a flat washer at the top like so.

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I cut off a bit more than one coil when I dropped it, and I rarely smack the control arm into the coil bucket. I think I was making a hard right out of a gas station over a dip at the entrance and that was enough to smack it. It takes a bit of effort to do it.

I found some scrap left over from an intercooler piping job we did for a customer and made an intake. It's not one of our production intakes, but it will do for this engine until I get it swapped. The truck has a much stronger pull to it now and the little extra bit of growl under the hood is cool. It's a nice touch at least.

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Will post more as it happens.

[Merrill]

Here is what I am playing with now. I need to swap to 5 lug for better wheel selection and a few other reasons. The Tacoma hubs work great, except when placed on the Might Max spindle, the offset increases by almost a half inch. THat translates into a +48mm offset wheel needed to sit flush. That's not likely to find in the "large selection" category.


My solution - change the hubs. Here is a rough sketch with the corrected geometry.

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This will likely change again so I can correct it for rotor placement. The Tacoma hub requires you to space the caliper some 0.4XX inches to mate with the Tacoma rotor. I will not use the Tacoma rotor (I'm using a 3KGT rotor), so I need to correct the hub offset to fit rotor offset without spacing the caliper. These will eventually be machined from a billet of 6061 aluminum.

[Merrill]

snatched up 30 Pounds of 6061 billet rounds for hubs. Here are a few pics...

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I will get the final drafting 3D printed before I machine these. Hopefully I can get all this fitted and setup in the next few weeks.

[meandmit]

snatched up 30 Pounds of 6061 billet rounds for hubs. Here are a few pics...

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I will get the final drafting 3D printed before I machine these. Hopefully I can get all this fitted and setup in the next few weeks.

And make a few extra pairs for your friends WINK WINK

[Merrill]

Well I do this for a living so of you want a set, its not far out of reach.

[DroppedMitsu]

Very nice work, those hubs should be a work of art. Wish I had the machinery to make stuff like that

[Merrill]

Very nice work, those hubs should be a work of art. Wish I had the machinery to make stuff like that

Well the best thing about engineering and machining is being able to find someone to do it. If you can think of it, just about any competent machinist should be able to make it. Even if you can design it, just drop it off at a machine shop and tell them to cut it.

If you want something done, just let me know and I can point you in the right direction.

Right now I am sparking my curiosity to see if I can machine a hub that will allow a Montero Sport 314mm rotor to bolt on to a machined hub that fits the MM. This will make a 6 lug 2wd big brake bolt-on using the MP Machined hub and Montero Sport brake components.

[meandmit]

Right now I am sparking my curiosity to see if I can machine a hub that will allow a Montero Sport 314mm rotor to bolt on to a machined hub that fits the MM. This will make a 6 lug 2wd big brake bolt-on using the MP Machined hub and Montero Sport brake components.

Love it

[pennyman1]

when you get them done let us on the forum know that it would cost for the machined hubs - I am very interested in at least 1 set of those hubs, and I bet there are others that would want them also

[Merrill]

I dont mind organizing a group buy for hubs. I have a bunch of other business I must take care of first, but I will work on it in my spare time.

[Merrill]

Snagged some Evo Cams for this head from a buddy of mine. I'd post a pic, but they look just like the cams that are in there Who would know anyway?

50% off sale at Ecology is tomorrow and Sunday so I am geared up and will be out there pulling some goods.

[Merrill]

One of my favorite days of the year... 50% off day.

Here is what I bought

26mm Rear sway bar from a Montero Sport
33mm Front sway bar from a S10 Blazer 4x4
4x 16" wheels from a Rodeo
Solid rear window (to ditch the slider)
Clutch maser cylinder and pedal assembly (so I can switch to Hydraulic clutch from cable)
And a spare transmission


Here are a few pics of the goods

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Obviously the tires from the Rodeo are just a touch too big for a slammed truck, so I did some wheel n' deal action at my local used tire shop for 4 205/50's in very good condition. Walked out the door with them for $210 (haggled down from $260) And after a quick mount and balance at the shop, here they are.

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That is a terrible pic, but it dropped the truck an additional inch. I need to wash those wheels and paint them eventually. Definitely an improvement over stock. These will do just fine until I get the 5 lug conversion finished.

About the S10 sway bar - I noticed a few posts about upgraded sway bars and where to source them, but aside from the ones being sold online, I never found anything else. Truth be told, I didn't do a ton of searching either.... just a quick browse and that was it. I have no idea if the S10 bar has been brought up before or not, but as it turns out, the dimensions of the 2WD S10 and Blazer are very close to the MM, and the S10 and Blazer 4x4 is almost identical (except thickness). They are readily available in many different sizes to suit your needs.

It will take a bit of modification to squeeze in a 33mm bar where a 22mm bar currently sits, but no biggie. It's not rocket science or brain surgery.

To fit the rear Montero Sport sway bar on, brackets need to be fabricated for the axle and frame. That's a day job as well.

I ordered a bunch of other suspension bits recently and as soon as they show up, I will install the sway bars and such.

[Merrill]

So after a short trip up to San Marcos for my buddy to look at a mini truck for himself, I decided real quickly that this Mighty Max diff simply will not do. With the smaller tires, my engine was screaming, the speedometer read 87 MPH while the GPs pegged me at 79 MPH. As if that wasnt bad enough, it sucked my fuel tank near dry from all that continuois high rev. To hell with that....


I sold my factory 14's already, so the quickest fix I could think of without spending too much money is going back to the yard and grabbing an Explorer 8.8 with 3.73's and a locker. It is also equipped with rear disc, so it's definitely a good buy. The only money I have technically lost is 30 bucks for 2 of my 4 Rodeo wheels I just bought.

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The entire rear assembly, plus wheels and tires was $170 bucks. I will narrow this down and prep it for the Montero Sport rear sway bar as well. I will also provide a write-up on how to narrow the 8.8. Its very easy if you have the means, or access to the tools.

Every Mini-Trucker has their own right of passage during their build process. For some it is when they get their first set of ball valves and air shocks, for others it is the first peak they cleared after a torsion bar lift. All are moment in time where you know you crossed that point of having the "normal" truck, or the average mods. Before I started manufacturing aftermarket performance products, or built a single race car, I was a bag 'n dragger. Lowriders and Mini trucks were my scene, and chassis were all I built. My right of passage for every truck I built (for myself or clients) was the first time it rashed a speed bump.

Even after all these years, I still get a kick out of the little things
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Here is a decent shot of the truck. I really need the new '93+ front end already.... I keep buying everything else instead.

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[Merrill]

Got some work done at home today, I'm feeling rather accomplished. I don't normally take our shop days off, but today I wanted to catch up on the 'ol project. I had parts piling up as well, so I had to get to work on it before I started taking up all this space I don't have.


First I took care of the slider. I love having a sliding rear window but I cant stand the way it looks. Sliders usually have a larger frame so it makes the back window look much smaller than it is. It also allows me the opportunity to delete the cargo light that I don't need or use.


Here goes... First - pop the window out. It literally comes out with a screw driver, hook, or even a strong putty knife. All you have to do is get one corner out and the the whole window will slide right out with the weather stripping and all.
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Next I removed the paint and prepped for welding, followed by backing the large hole and plug welding the smaller ones
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A quick weld and smooth followed by a shot of primer was next. While the window was out, I shot the frame with some flat white so there wont be an ugly tape line when I go to paint it later. Then I slid the new solid window in.
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I think the solid window looks a lot better than the slider but I will definitely miss my slider. Cruising with the windows down and the slider open was like rolling in a convertible without being burned by the sun 8) but oh well.


I made another appearance gamble on this truck..... I always liked the clean look of F1 Mirrors, and I can't stand the Mighty Max ones. To me, they just look out of place on the Mighty Max. I tool a stab and spent a few bucks on some F1 style mirrors.

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The only problem is there is no adapter for a Mighty Max. My vendor sends the mirrors with or without adapters for the same price, so I looked at the Evo 1-3 versions. They looked close, but if they didnt fit I have back up. These trucks were often equipped with the giant towing mirrors that bolted to the door. Since the small mirror isn't used, the factory installed a blank cap in place of the mirror. I snagged a pair of those just in case.

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Turns out I needed them. The Evo ones are really close, but I wasn't going to bother with it since I have the factory blanks.


Here's how it looks
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I've never seen these on a Mighty Max before, but I think the gamble paid off again. I love them!


The rest of the steering and suspension parts arrived today as well. It will be good as new by the end of the week.

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I should be getting started on the 8.8 Diff on Wednesday as well. More updates as they come!

[meandmit]

looking good

[BradMph]

They use to make a rear window that would look like a non-slider, but it had handles on inside on the drivers side and passenger side that would bow the window open on these sides to ad venting. They were great back windows for trucks. Pennyman has one on his truck.

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If anyone knows of these or availability, let me know.

[BradMph]

Even after all these years, I still get a kick out of the little things

lol Merrill, these kicks you mention are what make us older guys feel young again. Playing with our toys and feeling like a kid again. That's what its all about...feeling young and having fun.

[Merrill]

Old is a point of view.... You can't let the pleasures of your youth slip only to be resurrected by the younger crowds. I love catching memories reminiscent of my former years, but I much prefer not losing them to begin with "Old" should refer to wisdom and experience. A couple School kids walking by must have thought I was a total weirdo for laying in the middle of the road to take a picture of a speed bump, but hopefully one day they'll get it.

[Merrill]

I wasted little to no time getting this Explorer 8.8 started.

First up was getting it on the table and stripped. After draining it, I started the hard work of cutting off the old sway bar and leaf spring perches.

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Next measure, cut and set it up to be welded back together

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I did order new perches for this axle. They do have a larger standoff than the MM perches, but there is a reason I ordered this particular size.

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The perch closest to the camera has a 3/8 (ish) standoff (height to mounting surface from the axle tube). The ones I ordered have a 3/4" standoff. The reason why I ordered them is because the 8.8 diff has a 3 1/4 inch axle tube while the Mighty Max uses a 3 inch tube. That 1/4 inch difference plus the 3/4 inch perch standoff will net me almost an extra inch of drop. If I was crazy enough to slap in a 4 inch block, I would net about 5 inches of drop without having to stack blocks. With the 3 inch blocks installed now, I will get almost an extra inch of drop (which I want) without having to buy new blocks and U bolts.

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I should have it all welded up tomorrow.

[meandmit]

did you narrow it for a certain type of wheel offset or just to the stock Mit width...can't wait for the updates

[Merrill]

I narrowed 2 7/8" which is the difference between the driver side and passenger side axles. It will be similar in width to the MM plus or minus a few fractions.

[amcervantes]

if you are in SD I would like to check out your build sometime

[Merrill]

Im in SD. Just PM me. It would be cool to meet some other members.

[Merrill]

Now I am at the point where I am almost ready to throw this under the truck. Here is the rest of the narrowing job.

First things first - clean up the metal. Some sand paper and acetone will do the job nicely. The inside of the axle tubes were all gummed up with cooked on oil. They were thoroughly cleaned as well before mating and welding.

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Next I welded the axle tubes to the housing. It has been reported that the 8.8 has a weak spot at the plug welds, so this is a solution. This really isn't necessary, but why not? Whats a couple extra minutes to lay down a couple more welds?
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I don't own an axle Jig (the through bar type) because I don't narrow axles often. However, there is an easy EASY solution to that. Simply take 2 pieces of channel and clamp them on top and bottom of the tube. This will allow you to rotate, move, slide, and place the end easily for tacking together.

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After lining up the reference lines, measure. After confirming the axle tube length was exactly the same on both sides, tack the front and back, then rotate the clamps 90 degrees to tack the top and bottom.

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Then weld.

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I also did a little "scar patching" from all the cutting work done during the strip down. Later on down the road I plan on adding a diff cooler. The ABS sensor port is excellent for a return port for cool oil since it will aim right at the back of the gear. I added a stainless -10 bung to it that can be capped off until I build the cooling system fro it.

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There was so much gunk, dirt and grime built up in the tubes. Since it is too big for the parts washer, and way too big for the hot tank, I made a nice concoction of solvent and degreaser to fill the diff with while I went to work on measuring the truck.

I took a measure of the pinion angle, driveshaft angle, leaf spring width, and perch width. With all that in hand, I can translate it over to the 8.8 and weld the perches on in the correct place and angle.

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All that was left to do was give it a final cleaning and strip down for coating.

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I still have to finish the paint and coating work on the rest of the components, but it's pretty much done. I will rebuild it before I throw it under the truck, but that was a given anyway.... kinda stupid to do all this work and leave it "used" inside.

The only hold up I have at the moment is finding a solution for mating the driveshaft to it. I'll probably just buy a yoke and modify the MM driveshaft.

Questions & comments - post up!

[meandmit]

I narrowed 2 7/8" which is the difference between the driver side and passenger side axles. It will be similar in width to the MM plus or minus a few fractions.

Ahh, so you'll just use 2 passenger side axles...nice