I wasn't directing my response at anyone in particular... I just needed to clarify is all.
I wasn't directing my response at anyone in particular... I just needed to clarify is all.
thats how i took it too...
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
I know it's been several pages but did you ever come up with a "KIT" for the brakes (all the parts, numbers etc..)
I found a 3000gt SL but not vr4. Can these brake parts work? (I've only seen 1, ONE vr4 Galant or any, in the past several years going to the yards)
It's not really a 'pull-it' type of yard and ALL vehicles are laying flat on the ground. (especially the ones I want to get parts from the under side)
My 88 long bed, 1-ton is going next week to get the 5.2 motor centered and mounts made.. Need to make it stop too!
Thanks E
So Sorry.. One of these days I'll learn me to read..
Post #27..
I'm pretty sure the base 3000gt is a 276mm rotor (you may want to look that up). If it is a 276, it will work as the smaller brake upgrade along with the Galant and Diamante front rotors.
However - all the info I posted on #10 and #27 is for reference to big brakes with 5 lug swapping - not 6 lug. The offsets are different with all the rotors, so 6 lug big brakes are a bit more of an issue and I don't have all the info since I swapped to 5 lug.
I'm already at a 5-lug Toyota swap fr/rr. Also, got a set of lowered spindles waiting too!
I'm envious on how it seem that you just "find" these parts so easily..
Thanks
Errol
Right on then... should be no problem. All you have to decide now is how big of a rotor you want. I've only confirmed one for sure, but the others are 99% sure they will fit and function. I just haven't installed them and tested them since I went to 4 pots and custom everything.
I do find a lot of parts often, but I know where to look at the same time. Most of the yard parts I buy are just for the purpose of mock-up or sometimes just a temporary part. Most parts I buy new. Important items (like brakes) will always be bought new or reman. One reason is they are easier to find. The other reason is being assured that you won't have a problem with it right out of the box (most of the time)
I do still have those red 314mm calipers that I was going to use before the 4 pots. If you need them, toss me an offer. I think I paid 40 bucks for them and I'm not going to use them... they're just sitting in a box looking pretty.
PRAISE GOD YEAH I'll take them!! (left a visitor message)
These are fronts correct? Just spent the last hour or so reading up on 5-lug rear discs, so I'm a tad cornfused.
And these are for 3000GT rotors? I just guess that the front rotors are different from the SL 3000gt versus the VR4.?
Red.. Those should look nice peaking through the Conquest rims.
Errol
So I PM'd all the info to you, but for the other readers here - I'll make this clear.Originally Posted by 77amc
The 2 piston Montero Sport calipers (as we are talking about) will fit if you machine both the rotor and the caliper to clear the thicker rotor. Spacing will also have to be solved for the change in offset of the rotor. The 3KGT VR4 rotor is thicker than the Montero Sport rotor, but is the same OD of 314mm. All this is explained on post #10 and #27. Since mine (and yours) are 5 lug swap, this is all we can confirm at this time.
I don't have much info on the rear disc since I simply narrowed a Ford 8.8 which is equipped with 285mm rear discs. Any other axle/brake combo would require me to engineer something, so I'm not much help on the info.
There are 3 rotor options for the 3000GT.
1 - non-VR4 276mm front rotors
2 - 1991-993 VR4 296mm front rotors
3 - 1994+ VR4 314mm front rotors
If you use the Montero Sport 276mm 2 piston calipers, you will need a rotor from any Galant, some Eclipse, Diamante, 3000GT (non-VR4), and a dozen other Mitsu cars that use a 276mm rotor (there are dozens).
If you use Montero Sport 314mm 2 piston calipers, you will need a rotor from the 1994+ 3000GT VR4. You will also need to machine the rotor and caliper down to clear as stated in Post #10 and #27.
EITHER size will require you to machine the center bore to 86.1mm so you can adapt to the Toyota front hub. Again, this is all for 5 lug swaps only. It will NOT work with a 6 lug Mighty Max hub because the rotor offsets are too high (they will hit the spindle). You can also use 3000GT VR4 4 piston calipers and machine your own brackets (that's what I did - post #'s 100, 104, 119, 126 have info and pics).
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So now that is all explained - here are some page 11 pics!
Since my RHD swap was finished, I havent washed the truck. There has been little to no time to do it. Since I was tired of looking at all the dirt and grease buildup, I decided washing it even at night would net a result that looked better even if I missed a few spots.
IMG_250085060319698.jpgIMG_250091899252559.jpg
The next morning revealed a damn good job for washing at night. I couldn't even find one spot I needed to go back over....
IMG_250102330563753.jpg
But the next day... It rained. Now my truck is all dirty again...
20150111_092950.jpg
I'm going to check the weather reports from now on....
Haha that's how it always works. Wash it and in comes the rain. I'm glad you updated some current pictures though. I've loved reading this thread, and keep bringing myself back for ideas and I start mock up on my 1st gen.
I think I'm stealing your door skin idea this weekend in fact =-D
Hey Merrill. I noticed you didn't cut speaker holes in your door skins. I'm wondering if you relocated the front speakers or eliminated them?
I intend to machine some quick release door hinges in the future. I can't have any electrical going to the doors.
I haven't decided if I will install a sound system or not yet, but if I do, front speakers will probably go into the kick panels and rears into the rear pillars.
Our doors take in so much water and door speakers tend to rust or get all crusty, so the kick panels are a good idea, I think under dash in corners would be better maybe though. Can't kick them, no water to ruin them and they are close to the ears, but this is 1st for dash, not sure if 2nd gen dash supports them to good.
I like his idea about the quick release door handles, no electric for them means you never get locked outside of truck when you have a dead battery, lol.
My factory dash speakers will remain out because I am routing the roll cage through the dash at the speaker location. Since I'm 6'2, and the truck is small, I decided not to bend around the dash but rather go through it. Since the RHD dash is not common here in the states, the only way to preserve it is to go through the speaker holes to avoid lots of cutting.
Quick release doors are there to make life easy at the track, or loading the truck into a trailer. With the door off, I can get in and out of the truck in a tight space. It's also easier to work on the truck with no doors attached when you are back and forth between working under the hood and in the cab. It's also "totally race car" to take your doors off
Oh crap, lmao didn't see the doors are going removable.Slipped under the radar on that one.
But wait, didn't Bo and Luke just jump in the window to get in their race car? Besides sliding across the hood on each show. JK!
Yeah the truck is much easier to load and work on in some situations when you take the doors off. I can also claim total baller status on a nice day and just go for a door-less cruise around the city lol.
By the way - Thank you for the sticky status (whoever did it)!
I swear I just bought the truck yesterday, but it was pointed out to me that this thread was started one year and four days ago. I've pretty much owned my truck for one year. It's hard to believe it has been a year already!
Progress and plans have changed over the past year, but the majority of it, though off schedule and full of setbacks, has been pretty good. I have received a lot of compliments, PM's regarding "how" I did some of it, questions regarding what parts I used, and all kinds of thanks for helping and even inspiring others. I am truly honored. This group is really awesome!
I have always wanted to make a kind of "timeline" post that shows the beginning to current status of my truck, so here it is. Everyone is welcome to comment in any way - I wont be hurt if you think my truck looked way better before I started it
I only make that statement above about the comments because I went back through this thread and pulled the pics for it. Some of them show the truck looking MUCH NICER than current hahaha.
The Exterior
This was the truck as I purchased it in January, 2014.
1991 Mitsubishi Mighty Max Exterior Before 1.jpg
Despite having some dings and dents, it wasn't really that bad at all for being 23 years old. I later found out I am the 3rd owner, and the first owner was a local bread company. This was a dealer maintained delivery truck! I totally scored.
Even though it was clean, it wasn't good enough. First I gave it some better looking mirrors (F1 style) and face lifted the front end with the '93 plus bumper and grille and a set of projector headlights. It didn't take long for me to realize that that wasn't enough. After attacking the chassis mods (314mm 4 pot big brakes, narrowed Ford 8.8 LSD, and suspension drop), I finished it off with a set of 17" Enkei wheels that are similar to Evo X factory wheels.
This was was where the exterior started to go down hill. Some full readers of my thread recall "The Crackhead" that banged out and painted my truck back in June or '14.... Long story short, the dude was literally a crackhead and turned my simple Flat White paint job into drywall texture that is impossible to clean.
I banged out Phase 1 of the chassis plus the interior in 4 months. I was going to debut this truck at MOD 2014. Once the crackhead finished texturing my truck, I cancelled my debut appearance. Some may even recall I wasn't able to get hood and tailgate back from the crackhead because he went to jail. This whole jacked up paint job literally derailed most of my plans and caused me to say "F**K IT!!" for a couple months. I even had a friend of mine make an artistic "rust look" on my hood and tailgate because they were never finished and painted when the truck was. I was so pissed.
Here is the current look of my truck One Year Later
1991 Mitsubishi Mighty Max Exterior After 1.jpg1991 Mitsubishi Mighty Max Exterior After 2.jpg
I o owe some thanks to the members here and all over that kept expressing interest in my truck even though I stopped posting and updating for a bit. I was totally derailed after that crack-ass paint job. It's still on there, but I have a few new additions I will take care of before I sand down all the texture and paint it again.
My Opinion & Review
1 - - - - - - - - 10
XXX XXXX XXX
I started with a very decent truck. Even though it was beat up and very stock, it was a solid 5.
1 - - - - - - - - 10
XXX XXXX XXX
Just before paint, I really feel I brought this up to a clean and very respectable look. It wasn't dead on my vision, but I can confidently give it an 8.
1 - - - - - - - - 10
XXX XXXX XXX
I'll be honest... I don't typically take pics that show off the shit paint
Once I get the new mods done and a fresh coat of paint on it, I know I can score a 10 in my brain and vision.
The Engine & BaySuch a beauty!! I was completely shocked the day I popped the hood for the first time. Incredibly clean - smooth running - and what a maintenance record it had! It showed.
It has been my intention from the get go to swap this over to a much more modern platform. The Evo variant 4G64 DOHC was being started before I even bought the truck, so I have left the mod list alone for this engine except for one item - a custom air intake.
This was such a simple mod and really unlocked quite a bit of fin in this little 8 valve. Even the sound was brought out a little. It sounded just a little bit more serious under a full throttle pull. All I wanted to do was keep the engine pretty until I swapped it. This engine bay was perfect until the attack of the crackhead..... Everything ended up getting painted after he got ahold of it. My prestine wiring harnesses were now white and flaking. My overflow bottle was color matched. My engine was speckle painted in white..... This bay looked like total shit. To add insult to injury, the crackhead went back and rattle canned over my radiator hoses, charco can, brake booster, wiper motor, and a dozen other parts of the bay to try and hide all the over spray.... a real class act douche.
Here is the current look of my engine bay One Year Later
1991 Mitsubishi Mighty Max Engine After.jpg
I'm going to say nothing else other than "LOL"
My Opinion & Review
1 - - - - - - - - 10
XXX XXXX XXX
I started with a damn near PERFECT stock engine and bay. Dealer maintained, extremely clean, un-molested, decent power. This was an easy 8 as far as stock 8 valves are concerned.
1 - - - - - - - - 10
XXX XXXX XXX
The intake really polished it off. I'm not going to duplicate my first score after an upgrade, so 9 it is.
1 - - - - - - - - 10
XXX XXXX XXX
One year later, everything is over sprayed, and the engine I wanted to have in is still not in. It looks like shit and it's still in the truck... its a 2.
We'll see what happens in the coming months, but I know what I need to do to bring this rating back up.
The Interior
I bought this with some random bucket seats wrapped in Hawaiian seat covers... It was laughable at best. I'm not sure if the "Ford Racing" steering wheel cover was to be funny or if it was just something the previous owner had laying around. I barely fit in the truck with those seats, but the owner did still have the bench which I installed very quickly after purchasing the truck.
The bench is much more tolerable for a guy my height. It didn't take long for the interior to get done. It was a short list, but a lot of work. I was chasing something clean and "as comfortable" as a truck intended for racing could be. I chose a nice set of red leather racing seats, dyed a second dash black, dyed the trim plastics black, added a red leather steeering wheel with quick release, and made a rear brake for some drifting fun. To top it off, I built a custom set of arms rests and made a color matched set of door cards out of 6061 aluminum. Id say the "mid point" of my interior was right where I wanted it. Hard to keep clean, but I love it!
It's pretty amazing how lucky you can get sometimes. I toyed with the idea of a right hand drive swap at the beginning of this build, but soon dropped the plan due to unnecessary "bling expense"... It just wasnt practical. Well, fate landed in my lap one day after a close friend was scouting the yards in San Diego. I got the call saying he had found an old highway truck that had been converted to RHD. Long story short, he bought it all, I went to pick it up a week later. After repairing the cracked dash and dying it black, I performed the complete swap in 36 hours (my personal best).
Here is the current look of my engine bay One Year Later
1991 Mitsubishi Mighty Max Interior After.jpg
Not bad.... just not with carpet anymore lol. It's been fun learning this truck all over again. I've been in the industry now for 15 years. Driving right hand drive has never been a big struggle or issue for me. Driving my truck on the right, however, has been interesting to say the least. After driving it for 11 months on the left, suddenly I am in the same truck now on the opposite side. It was weird at first (because I know this truck inside and out), but now I think it would be weird to go back to the left hahaha.
My Opinion & Review
1 - - - - - - - - 10
XXX XXXX XXX
This interior kinda sucked to start with. I'm not counting the first bucket seats with the flowers, but the bench was pretty torn up. The steering wheel was trashed and the cover simply didn't match. The dash was hacked beyond repair because the idiot previous owner tried to install speakers that were way too big, and the whole interior was riddled with wood screws and household wiring. Pure shit. With everything needing to be replaced, this interior was a 2.
1 - - - - - - - - 10
XXX XXXX XXX
I nailed it! Exactly what I was looking for as far as comfort and appearance. The only thing that was NOT changed before the swap was the carpet. Surprisingly enough, it was hard to tell it was still blue. So I will bump this to a 9.
1 - - - - - - - - 10
XXX XXXX XXX
Tough to score this one since it's still the same interior minus the carpet. However - that totally kills the look. It has no feel without the carpet, so down one point it goes to an 8.
If I could just toss some carpet in and my roll cage, I'd give it a 10 after my window crank and handles get dyed. Not having carpet REALLY kills it though, so that is first lol.
Everything Else
These 11 pages of this thread have a ton of mods and details listed in them. I know I didn't list them all, but I didn't get all the "before" pics either. It's also tough to break everything down into categories. One thing I do like is my chassis. There have been a ton of mods done to the chassis and I can easily label it an 8 with where I have built it up to.
So what do you think? I've got some time to kill before I decide if I will pull the trigger on the next direction of the build, but I would love to hear some feedback - good or bad (trust me, I can take it). Where do you rate my truck after one year?
Post up!
SWAP SWAP SWAP SWAP SWAP SWAP SWAP SWAP
I think its time for some 16v goodness =] figure out the supercharger later just get the engine in!!!!!!
Oh and did i mention 16v swap???? It would make the engine bay look awesome and make you feel a TON better about it
If i get my 16v swap done first ill be a little dissapointed lol after all my engine is just a bare block that needs all new internals and has no accessories and i have no job and no money so dont let me beat you!!!!
You've done a great job sir.
If it were me... I would try to locate an additional truck to play with. That way if you're really serious about drastic changes then you will still have your original truck to drive around in/ take measurements and comparisons/etc while building the newest version.
Looking forward to seeing more
Tremendous amount of work done in a relatively short time. I totally understand the work and the change of focus with a truck like yours - wish I have the time and talent to do half of what you did to your truck. If I had spare cash I would seriously either buy some of the parts from this truck, or have you build me some things for Geronimo. Your work is top notch and we all want to see more - keep it coming, doesn't need to be just on this truck either.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
So try and follow along with me here.....
I am dancing around with this build right now and I'm kind of in the middle of a "screw it" stage and trying to have some fun. I have encountered a bit of dead time and I decided to look into a few things. This is what I have found/am doing (possibly).
I had a client jump up and ask me to gather info on the 8V engines so I could possibly build a crazy hybrid setup. The discussion came up about tuning it, and I obviously just suggested the DSM ECU because it would be extremely easy to do - almost plug and play. In the end you get better tuning control, knock control, fan control, DIS (ignition), more fueling, more support.... the list goes on. The MM ECU is basically a dummed down DSM ECU, so patching it over would be cake. Hell, the cam/crank sensor wheels are near identical so as long as the phasing is correct, it will run all day.
DIS is a great option one would gain from the swap as well. More powerful spark, ability to tweak and adjust more directly, and less things to maintain are always better in the end. You could also keep it running with a distributor all day long provided that you add a couple diodes to the coil signal... it would go all day.
Changing up to a 2G ECU would be cake as well since you can use the combined CAS/CPS from a 1g on a 2g... etc. Thats not a hurdle at all lol. You could also gain from integrating the OBD2 system, and tuning gets even easier. DSMLink and a few other systems will tune either one all day. You could almost go completely plug and play with a 2.4 Spyder ECU and harness and be done with it.
This is where I am going to have a little fun with my build. I intend to run my DOHC setup on an Evo ECU since this is basically and Evo platform (the engine I'm currently building). I could shell out the dollars for an actual Evo ECU, or I could flash a similar ECU with the Evo ROM. I grabbed a 3G Eclipse ECU and harness today and checked it off my list.
20150202_153258.jpg
Heres the thing - 1G/2G DSM owners have swapped over Evo ECU's before (nothing new). Since the MM 2.4 is so much like a DSM, I may be able to stick this ECU and harness onto my 8V and run it. It would also add all the tuning ability without all the headaches. This is 100% a complete "maybe I will do it if I can find the time." However, there is nothing stopping it from working. If someone wants the info to do theirs, let me know, I'm sure I can help.
In the mean time, I'm still collecting parts and taking care of this busy season with my clients...
I managed to get my harness pinout complete for the 3g Eclipse ECU. One of the reasons I like to go back and do it all myself is because information tends to suck sometimes. The 3G and Evo ECU's are very similar since the same pin serves pretty much the same function, but they are not identical on the pinouts. The EVO ECU uses pins that the Eclipse unit does not, and the Evo pinouts seem to be missing 3G info. They also do not share the same wire colors (except the ground lol). I snagged up a FSM for the 3g and now I have a complete 3g pinout correctly written to the ECU and color codes.
Judging by the looks of the schematics I have been digging through, running the 8V 4g64 off of the 3G/Evo ECU would be very possible as long as you add the missing components like IFS, Transistor(s) for DIS, ignition coils, and swap the IACV over to DSM/Evo/Eclipse type. You also have to add the OBD2 plugs and you will lose your mechanical speedometer because the ECU needs to use a VSS. You can absolutely find a substitute speedometer easily once you convert to OBD2.
I do have some extra time over the next couple days. I will probably dig into some other FSM's and write some pinout/wiring info for DSM to 8V conversions for those who may be interested. This would be so much easier than building stuff like Megasqirt and tapping in piggy-back ECU's.
I'm still undecided if I will actually run my 8V on the 3G ECU or not. I really don't want to make a harness for it and then have to make it again for the next swap. Maybe I'll make an adapter harness or something.... I don't know yet.... Stay tuned!
So here is a little info after half a days worth of pinouts with 1G DSM and Mighty Max harnesses:
-60% of the wires/circuits are plug and play/same pin and function but different color on most(extremely easy).
-20% of the wires don't exist on the MM so they need to be added (semi-easy).
- the remaining 20% just need to be re-pinned (easy).
-A throttle body swap will need to happen/required (easy).
-DIS can be wired in (easy) OR you can leave the distributor in place and use it (better to have DIS though).
I'm trying to dig up the MAF pins to verify the wiring. There are also a couple circuits that I have zero info in. A wire is on my ECU, but there is nothing on the diagram listed for it. This is why it sucks not having a FSM lol. I'll figure it out soon though. If anyone has a known working 1G DSM ECU I can borrow to verify my pinout/swap function, I'd appreciate it. I'll return it when I am finished and replace it if I break it. I'm just not going to do a permanent swap is all. I'd rather have the work listed for others to use for their rides in the future.
Try this link Merrill...http://www.lilevo.com/mirage/ECU%20e...%20harness.htm
pinouts.gif
I can locate schematics on some stuff if needed.
there is a vss signal coming out of the cluster, i have been working on the same setup i have a 3g ecu and a evo and dsm harness
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