Yeah I'm still working on worming an S10 bar in the front, but it is just a wee bit too narrow and the mounting is odd. Chances are I am going to build a new system for the front end to adapt the bar.
Yeah I'm still working on worming an S10 bar in the front, but it is just a wee bit too narrow and the mounting is odd. Chances are I am going to build a new system for the front end to adapt the bar.
just read the whole build. good stuff. I'm down in phoenix with a 4G63 swapped 73 galant wagon. Once yours is running on the new engine i'd love to see it!
Thank you! I wouldn't mind seeing your wagon too if you can manage. I've always wanted one but never able to catch a good deal on one. Maybe one day I will...Originally Posted by incorporatedx
Well, it simply wouldn't be my build unless there are snags lol. Here are some page 13 pics and a very small update for the followers.
So back on Page 5 (post #103) I ran into a couple snags with the water pump and power steering mounting. Since this is a RWD application, the clocking of the Evo water pump puts the inlet right in front of the bracket blocking it. The solution was to cut the thermostat housing bracket and fab an elbow to mate the two. Since the block is RWD and not FWD, the castings are slightly different. There are no holes for the power steering pump to bolt to the block. The solution for that was adding a plate to the modified FWD mount and cutting down the Evo PS bracket to fit.
All of those were really no big deal, and once I have everything all assembled, I will make a post with all the details and happy little pics to explain what needs to be done to modify a RWD block to fit Evo 4-9 components. Again, this is ONLY for adding Evo 4-9 accessories and 4G64 accessories with the 2 belt system (basically anything FWD). If you used the factory accessories and such (AC/PS/Alt/WP) with the 3 belts as they are in the Montero Sport, you wouldn't run into these issues.
Here is the latest issue with fitment - the Alternator.
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Now one thing I ran into a while ago (and couldn't figure out) was why my accessories were not lining up correctly. It finally hit me when I was trying to mount the Evo alternator - the oil pump is different on a RWD block. That was a rather interesting find because I have never seen a difference in pumps between G63/64/69 of the later series. They're all the same pump (older DSM series have some differences like 6/7 bolt, FWD/RWD, etc.). What I need to do now is go buy a new Evo oil pump and toss the Montero sport one.
For future builders that want to tackle this engine in the same style I am - You can NOT just trim the tab off to mount the alternator. The reason why is the tensioner mount machining on the oil pump protrudes too far. It would have to be machined down to fit (which is not recommended). If you just said "screw it" and left it alone, the serpentine belt would get shredded and go flying off every chance it could because it does not line up with the rest of the components when mounted to the RWD oil pump. If you are building on a budget and can't afford a new pump (understandable because an OEM pump is about $250 retail), you can either source a good used one (not recommended because you don't know the history/condition), OR you can buy a cheap-o pump, use the case only, and swap over the OEM pump gears and regulator for peace of mind. Those are a couple options.
So that is what I have for now. I'll keep this updated as I go.
It has been brought to my attention that I have not updated in a while....
Well - I have no updates. That's why hahaha. Between the upcoming summer shows I have to build for, and all the other pieces I'm currently undertaking, I have no time to play with my truck. I was going to do a fit check on my engine and take a few shots, but a client brought his Harley in for a build. My time is booked for a while, but hopefully something frees up soon so I can take some time to play with the truck.
That pesky work that pays the bills gets in the way all the time...
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Hell yeah it does lol. But I really can't complain.... I love what I do, but damn I'm getting tired of staring at my engine in the corner lol.
Dude.....I know the feeling. Looking forward to seeing more whenever either of us gets back to it.
I just got a smoking deal on a trade to really amplify the balls of this engine. I'll have more once it all goes through. Gonna be a few weeks...
Good, wouldn't want it to be underpowered or anything.
I dont want to clutter up your thread, but here's a pic;
here's a build thread for it;
http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/sh...t=46017&page=6
Converting the engine to work RWD does take some figuring, here's mine once it was ready, i used a 6 bolt 4G63 from the early 90's;
^^I like it. Totally want one now....
So I had a bit of fun today. Along with all that fun came some cool discoveries for you swappers out there.
Lets start with the cool stuff....
Evo Swapped Powered Mitsubishi Mighty Max (7).jpgEvo Swapped Powered Mitsubishi Mighty Max (4).jpgEvo Swapped Powered Mitsubishi Mighty Max (5).jpgEvo Swapped Powered Mitsubishi Mighty Max (6).jpg
There it is in all its glory! One Evo powered Mighty Max (variant). Slides right in as if it were meant to be! I did make a couple really unique discoveries as well.
They are as follows...
Engine mounts:
Montero Sport 2.4 engine mounts (the lower/rubber portion that bolts to the chassis) are identical to the MM.
The actual bracket that bolts to the block is different. The difference is great, though. Montero sport block mounts move the engine forward to provide clearance which eliminates the need to jackass the install with hammer mods or cutting. This is a bolt-on solution for the swappers. You no longer need to make custom mounts - just find the MS block mounts/plates and have a good day.
Evo Swapped Powered Mitsubishi Mighty Max (9).jpgEvo Swapped Powered Mitsubishi Mighty Max (8).jpg
In addition, the tail shaft of the Montero Sport 5 speed sits about an inch rearward compared to the stock MM. This means the shifter will stay in the exact same place as stock if you use the MS tail shaft and shifter after moving the engine forward.
I have no info on the driveshaft. The reason why is I already had to modify mine to install my Ford 8.8. As such, I'm sure you still need to lengthen the driveshaft an inch to compensate for the engine position. Either way you slice it, that's 2 less mods you need to make since they can be bolted on as if they were stock.
Cam Position Sensor Vs. Heater Core
If everything was easy, hot blondes in bikini's would be doing it, right? Well this is one problem I need to find a solution to. The cam sensor directly interferes with the heater core tubes. This can be solved by phasing the sensor and reluctor, or finding another routing solution... I'll figure it out later and provide the solution.
Evo Swapped Powered Mitsubishi Mighty Max (10).jpgEvo Swapped Powered Mitsubishi Mighty Max (11).jpg
My Master Cylinder
This really only applies to the RHD community. Mitsubishi makes 2 versions of many master cylinders - Ones with ports on the right, and ones with ports on the left. I do have a giant custom intake manifold, but either way, find a master cylinder with its ports located on the right side. It makes for a much tidier installation and will not create an interference problem.
For the LHD community, use the LHD port master cylinder. This will give more space for your header.
I did have to trim down my intake manifold slightly for clearance, but there is still plenty of volume in the design without creating negative effect to cylinder #4.
My Header
I'm pretty sure I'm just going to have to rebuild it all from scratch. Of course I can "make it work" in its current design, but I'm just not totally satisfied with it. I did build it off of the truck to begin with. I'm pretty much dead on, but I just think it could look a bit cleaner.
That's all I got for now. Time to put the old 'n moldy back in.
That's good to know about the mounts
I'm seriously debating on finishing this by MOD. I'm not sure if I can get it done or not, but I'm thinking about it for sure.
Anyone else going to MOD this year?
Here are the part #s for the bolt-on solution to move the engine forward:
(Ref. #1) Right side mount - MD308249
(Ref. #2) Left side mount - MD322806
These are found on the '97-'99 Montero Sport 2.4 2wd. The rubber mou ts are exactly the same as the MM.
I can't find a breakdown or part number for the tail housing but that is also a part you might want to source. It will allow you to keep the shifter in the exact same location as your MM after moving everything forward. You could get away without using it, but this is an option for you. You will need to source the tail housing, shifter housing and shifter.
The driveshaft can either be lengthened - or - you can have a spacer machined that bolts on between the yoke flanges of the drive shaft and differential. It's up to you which one you want to go with.
MOD is this month correct? I would love to go(missing it again, wanted to make it to last years too) but my truck wont be don't until probably sometime next month.
MOD is Saturday, July 11. I'm pretty sure I'm gonna be there this year. I know 3 of my clients will be attending, so I guess I have to lol.
hmm ok a little more time than I thought. I might make it there we shall see.
I really hope you do.... They might actually give MM's a section as opposed to peppering them in the crowd lol
Here is a bit of an update for what I am calling "MOD Mods"
My hood will eventually be useless with a big supercharger sticking through it. At this point, I figured I'd make a subtle mod to it for the time being. Just tossed in some vents...
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Once again this year, I have no time for paint and body. I have my body mods list in order, but there is no way I can pull it off. I also don't want to show the crackhead paint job off. It wasn't good enough last year and it certainly isnt any better this year. What options do I have? Well - only slight modification. I spent 4 bucks on some flat black and slightly modified the paint job a little.
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I think it looks pretty good.
Finally, I am currently building a roll cage for a 9th Gen FG4 Civic, but I goofed on the harness bar. I completely spaced the fact that I have to recess the driver's side harness bar on the Civic. Every rule book states that there are to be no grinding marks or modifications to roll bars/cages. I also have a great reputation for not side stepping any of my work. As such - a new main hood had to be bent from scratch. A mild loss of materials cost and time - yes. Worth it in the end to maintain my reputation - absolutely; I'll bend a dozen more if I have to.
I tried to sell it locally on a couple boards since the dimensions are a lot like other cars. It will fit in a bunch of them easily. The problem I soon discovered is there are not a lot of fabricators and builders on these local boards, so who the hell would want "just a main hoop" without rear bars, door bars, and other supports? If you can't build the rest yourself, it is pointless at any cost (even as only the cost of materials that I was listing it for).
Moving on to today... This morning I tossed it in the truck for the hell of it. It definitely doesn't fit as tightly as I bend my other cages, but it is not extremely sloppy either. It's workable for sure. I plan to toss on some door bars and roll to MOD with a roll bar in the truck.
20150606_122836.jpg
I'll have more pics of this later. Here's the deal with the roll bar - I don't need it. I'm just tossing it in for the show. I'd still like to recoup my losses on the materials (which is about $150). If anyone is interested in a really cheap DOM bolt-in roll bar for a MM/D50, now would be the time to PM me. It will be available mid July. Obviously since my truck is RHD, the diagonal brace is backwards. If someone wants to buy this bar, I'll flip the main hoop around for LHD if needed (free of charge). All you need to pay is the price of shipping from Las Vegas, NV, plus $150 for the bar itself. For reference, I usually charge $750 for a spec built 4 point roll bar. This is a chance to get one for a MM for cheap!
That's all I have at the moment. I'll have more pics up later as things get built.
Is everyone ready for the most badass update yet!?!?!
Last night, I replaced my water pump. Oooohhh yeah. While that is the sickest mod anyone has ever seen...
I one-upped myself....
I noticed my tail light was out. You wanna know what I did about it....?
I replaced it!
I know you're all jealous of my maintenanced' out ride and all.... you don't have to say anything.... I know
Seriously, that's all I've done lately lol. I'm too busy with everyone else's rides. Thanks for the PM's and messages from everyone checking for updates! I tried to make these updates as cool as possible lol.
Well I now my last few updates kinda suck, but I didn't think this thread would completely stall out lol.
I guess I'll just post up only the significant updates....
Many years of wrenching has taught me that no matter what color you want something to be, it only ends up turning black. I know that sounds like it was pulled straight from the pile of extremely pessimistic shit, but the true story behind it is nothing can escape the touch of the auto workers hands. Grease, oil, metal dust, dirt and grime all end up staining virtually every surface even after you wash your hands. It's as if you sweat dirt all the time. There's just no way around it.
I tried very hard over this past year and a half to keep my vibrant colored interior nice and clean. The trick, I thought, was to utilize materials that are easily cleaned (like leather or vinyl and smooth painted surfaces). My bright red leather seats, steering wheel and vinyl arm rests turned out to be the biggest culprits of dirt catching ugliness. It seemed no matter how hard I scrubbed at them, they would never really get clean like they were after I originally installed them. The steering wheel itself suffered the worst when faced with my "Abrasive Hand Syndrome" after a long day of metal work.
It seemed as if I was not going to keep my bright red accented interior around much longer. The seats were starting to turn to maroon from the original bright red. The steering wheel was just about the same. The parts that did last quite well was the white painted surfaces. Of course a black stain is beyond accentuated on a white surface, but all I had to do was wipe it off. I had to rethink the surface and rethink the color. This offers an opportunity to play around with the whole look and vibe of the interior as well.
A few weeks ago, a client gave me a Leonard Volanti steering wheel he had sitting around for years. I particularly liked it because it is acrylic and it offered up a different color to the interior: Baby Blue.
Tossing the red and replacing with baby blue meant I had to add a couple more matching accents. A few updates ago, I mentioned goofing on the harness bar section of a main hoop built for a FG4 Civic. It is a loose fit for my truck, but it will do for now. I figured it would be the perfect match for the baby blue steering wheel. I modified the door bars only slightly to bring them up to shoulder height, but still allow the arm rest to clear and maintain a bit of comfort. The door bars just help hold the main hoop in place in this design, so I had a bit of design wiggle room.Merrill Performance Mitsubihi Mighty MaxRight Hand Drive Roll Cage Bucket Seats Show (1).jpgMerrill Performance Mitsubihi Mighty MaxRight Hand Drive Roll Cage Bucket Seats Show (2).jpgMerrill Performance Mitsubihi Mighty MaxRight Hand Drive Roll Cage Bucket Seats Show (4).jpg
There was no way I was going to install baby blue seats into my truck. It's a nice color, but I don't like it that much. I figured they would better match the black dash. One issue I naturally have is a "space tolerance" (if you will). I'm almost 6'3" tall and my fitment in this standard cab with a roll cage was extremely tight with the last seats, even though they were lower than the factory bench. In order to run the cage, I needed to sit even lower than the already low buckets. NRG recently came out with a Rally style bucket which features an extremely low sitting position, and an "anti-submarine" front bolster. They are also only available in black. I figured I'd give them a shot. Installation meant fabricating a new set of seat brackets all together, but that's no big deal.Merrill Performance Mitsubihi Mighty MaxRight Hand Drive Roll Cage Bucket Seats Show (5).jpgMerrill Performance Mitsubihi Mighty MaxRight Hand Drive Roll Cage Bucket Seats Show (6).jpg
Now we get to an annual show known as EOS Showcase. EOS is a non-profit organization that was established to raise school supply donations that benefit underprivileged children in Southern Nevada. It was requested of my by a few friends and clients that I attend. Personally I feel my truck is nowhere near ready to sit in a show with such fine vehicles, but I support the cause and figured "why not"? Besides, I figured this would be a decent opportunity to see where my truck really stands as far as interest and what not.
Merrill Performance Mitsubihi Mighty MaxRight Hand Drive Roll Cage Bucket Seats Show (9).jpgMerrill Performance Mitsubihi Mighty MaxRight Hand Drive Roll Cage Bucket Seats Show (11).jpg
Merrill Performance Mitsubihi Mighty MaxRight Hand Drive Roll Cage Bucket Seats Show (7).jpgMerrill Performance Mitsubihi Mighty MaxRight Hand Drive Roll Cage Bucket Seats Show (8).jpgMerrill Performance Mitsubihi Mighty MaxRight Hand Drive Roll Cage Bucket Seats Show (12).jpg
I really didn't expect to win anything as far as trophies or prizes (which I didn't), but all in all, it was a great show and I did get to meet a few enthusiasts and talk with a pretty decent crown about the MM. It was a great turnout.
That's all I have for now.
+284 views in 23 hours but no comments
I don't see why you thought your truck didn't belong there - it looks really good for under construction - you can't tell from the outside...
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
we may not comment as we're all in awe of your build and don't know what to say other the WOW!!!!
I think your truck belonged there, too. No reason for it not to! My dad once told a story of a car that was done on the outside, even underneath 100% but the interior wasn't 'show ready' yet. Him & the guys took it to the show anyway and put up brown paper in the insides of all the windows so nobody could see the 'unfinished' inside - the car ended up winning some sort of prize, forget what but it did... paint or customization (chopped/sectioned etc). So yeah.
AND if you take your truck again next year a lot of people will remember it hey yeah wasn't this truck --- blah blah yep! SWEET! Cool, right on, etc. I'm glad you took it, looks damn good as-is
Love the bar *though I'd tie the dog to it inside anyways
Everything ends up black & if it's already black it gets white fuzzy floaty things stuck to it. No winning. Pick whatever color you don't hate to clean all the time.
Have a charcoal grey dash/seats/carpet/etc. in a car & every time I'm at a stoplight I'm wiping white (??? something) dust type stuff like miniature bits of cotton off the dang dash & even by the gages. Ridiculous. Static or some BS. IDK! all leather seats so it's not like cheap seats are full of dust or anything. Stuff happens.
Your truck looks darn good man. Oh and if those seats don't give you enough room maybe look at the seats out of a lotus elise (not joking) those dang seats are the thinnest all around seats I've seen in person, maybe = max leg room? No telling how uncomfy they are though ...
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