86' Power Ram 50 Project: Desert Hunter

[Acuta73]

Been kinda lax about anything on my truck, fairly obviously... The bump was so I could link the thread to a friend of mine. Wouldn't link until I did for some reason.

Realize I shoulda updated a couple things here I never did. The stereo system is fully installed and sounds GREAT! Bit tinny because the truck isn't soundproofed, but I will be working on that whenever it is I get to the interior of this thing.

The MSD issues were cleared up in THIS THREAD

Ignition works beautifully, but thanks to PowerRam348, I am likely going distributor-less this summer.

[Acuta73]

Well, despite the Winter doldrums (WTB a shop/garage!!), I am taking a week off at the end of the month to try and get some work done. Plan is to finish the fab work on the HID projectors, get the LED markers/turn/tail/backup lights done, fab the new stealthed grill, remount the fuel pump (and possibly put it behind a relay or VReg), and change all the oils.

Am seriously considering buying some variety of shitbox car and asking my Grandpa if I can borrow some hangar space this summer. I want to get the frame off the old girl in a bad way. Mebbe I get lucky and can find a 1st Gen 4x2 and make that my NEXT project?

[Acuta73]

VAAAACAAAATION!!!

Shit, this means I gotta get to work.

Damnit...

On the agenda:

Relocate fuel pump/new fuel filter(s) (going with a primary and secondary system)

Change oils/lube order

Install LED marker lights

Front brakes (full rebuild)

Master Cylinder/Brake Booster replace (might wait for Second Saturday at Napa)

Get off my ass and fab the projector housings

Install HID

Find the short/ground fault in my dash


Have other things I can do, IF I can actually work through this list...

[Acuta73]

Didn't get shit done over vacation. Played lots of video games, drank beer, and slept (I needed it, sue me). Did get my oil changed and tranny fluid changed, LED markers done a few days after.

Today I wired up my HID high beams (4-headlight system on 86). They are ready for install as soon as I wake/sober up in the morning/early afternoon.

35w 8000k HID in Pilot H4 reflector housing (PN: WI-HL6A):


Will be changing plans and going with FX-R projectors (optical glass lens) for the low/high side. 4 headlights = 2x low/4x High. My ex gets the el-cheapo fleabay projectors for her Kia. She's happy, and I didn't totally waste my money. Gotta get the top-end and brakes done first, though.

[Acuta73]

Ok, broke the link for that last pic by accident...can't edit to repair it.

FIXED:



Got the HID high beams installed, finally! To say the HID are cleaner and brighter than the halogen is an understatement. Makes my normal lows look yellow and dim by comparison. You'll have to pardon the pics, taken with my crappy phone. Pouring down rain and I wasn't taking my fancy DSLR out in it. LOL

Halogen Low:



HID High:



8000k seems the perfect heat range. A touch blue for contrast, but not overly so.

[Acuta73]

Odd thing happened today.

Opened my rotors up again and realized I had the wrong ones. Looked like the 2WD version. SO, I took em back to Napa. Turns out the manager had grabbed the wrong rotor set, what I had was actually from a Kia Sorrento. Here's the funny bit...I bought these last June, the rotors that I had ordered for my truck were still sitting in inventory waiting for me this whole time!

Proof there ain't many D50 floating around, I guess?

Off to install fuel/air gauge....

[Acuta73]

Gauge is in...and the carb is stoich . Which confuses me as the damn thing smells rich as Hell.

/shrug

[camoit]

At least you got the dog...

[Acuta73]

Starion/Conquest OS stainless valve set is on the way!


http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-VALVE-SE...#ht_518wt_1396

[Acuta73]

New set of oversize stainless Starion/Conquest turbo valves in-hand!!








More fuel in, and should last longer. And.....Hell....they're SHINY!!! (shiny = better, no?)


Speaking of shiny, new booster and master are painted up!



Ignore the beer, I'm sure some other strange person left it sitting there. Don't touch the stuff myself...

[pennyman1]

You will have to have the seats cut for the o/s valves, but not much. Since you have an 86, the retainers are correct for those valves. Are you going to replace the valve springs with schneider ones with higher ratings?

[Acuta73]

You will have to have the seats cut for the o/s valves, but not much. Since you have an 86, the retainers are correct for those valves. Are you going to replace the valve springs with schneider ones with higher ratings?

Machine shop is awaiting me to get all my parts and head over to him. Not sure on the springs, certainly wouldn't hurt any, and I can. Perhaps I should? Few more RPM can't be a bad thing, and if nothing else it'd offer a bit of peace of mind.

Will have to poke around and see if I can find some. Those the bee hive type or dual spring?

[pennyman1]

Bee hive springs have been available on ebay - the schneider cams springs are just stronger single springs. Those are availabkle direct from schneider cams or engine machine services. There used to be a guy on ebay under the starion catagory that sold titanium retainers and locks machined from nascar engines - lighter for higher revs. I have a set for my conquest motor to go with the tim c monsta banchee cam and o/s ss valves.

[Acuta73]

Got the Schneider PN, will order as soon as I can source some damn mech rockers....

Got all my new fuel system together. -6 AN fittings and line. Overkill? HELL yes! There is NO kill like overkill! I want this truck to be bomb proof, this system will be.

9ft -6 AN sleeved hose (more than I need, but I hate being short)

25ft 5/16 hard line: only came in 25ft length and I needed to increase my return line size to make this work, so now both lines get replaced.

3x tube to hose adapters (hard line)

3x female -6 AN to hose (hard line)

2x 45° 3/8 NPT to -6 hose (canister in/regulator out)

1x 90° 1/4 NPT to -6 hose (pump out)

1x 1/4 NPT to -6 male nipple (pump in)

1x 90° Female -6 to Female -6 swivel (pump in)

1x 3/8 NPT union (connects canister and regulator)

1x 3/8 plug (for canister)

1x 3/8 to 1/8 NPT reducer bushing (for pressure gauge)

1x 90° 1/8 F to 1/8 M NPT (for pressure gauge)

Banjo Weber -6 AN fuel fitting

Stainless mounting hardware

Carter silencing kit (with lots of extra rubber gromets)

Billet 100 micron -6 AN pre filter

10 micron high-flow canister filter (HELLUVA lot bigger than I thought it was gonna be...)

Mallory 4309 3-12lb pressure regulator with return

Summit 15lb liquid filled fuel pressure gauge

Relay, 10ga wire, and breaker

thread seal tape

(pesky beer bottle migrated in there for scale)



Also got my Tuff Pan and a pair of manual hubs


Tuff Pan is more overkill, but again, bomb proof....

[Acuta73]

Got some stuff done this weekend, woulda got brakes done, but I couldn't get the damn spindle nut wrench to break my hubs until today.

Tuff Pan is installed:






Got my gas struts put in and the hood support yanked out (thans Fordubishi for the idea):



Went with 17" 90# instead of 70#, gonna be hood mounting my hi-lift.



AND, got the fuel pump bracket made, ala mopar-ja (yet another thanks):




Got the 1/4 fender off the bed, as well. All the further I got on fuel system.

[Acuta73]

SCE Ready-To-Run (O-ringed) 0.043 G54B copper billet head gasket ordered. Being made to order, so got a bit over a week before it ships. $130, but it's re-usable.

Had a long talk with the tech, suggested NOT going thicker than stock on a naturally aspirated engine, and if I do turbo it down the road, this gasket will still work, albeit not as well as a slightly thicker one.

[pennyman1]

Unless the head has been shaved beyond .010 or the block decked beyond .010, I agree with the SCE tech on that statement - these are low compression motors to start - 8.0 to 8.2 - so a thicker gasket would lower the compression too much and kill the power.

[Acuta73]

Part of the trick was, I don't know whether or not the block was decked. The issue of having my paperwork go *poof* for the short block. Guy who did it died and his shop was liquidated. Not very helpful. Guy felt it was still safe going OEM thickness, however.

[crvtec90]

My dog likes this build. Hes ready for desert hunting

[Acuta73]

Another small piece of the puzzle is here. SCE 0.043" Copper Billet re-usable performance head gasket!




If this F**Ker blows, the engine is in pieces.


Drew hunt 168B East White Horse for Mule Deer starting 9/28/12. Desert HERE WE COME!

[Acuta73]

In case no one has figured it out, project is on hold for a bit. Wanted to get down and dirty during the warm months, but I'm just not getting the parts together even HALF as fast as I'd hoped. SOO, going to go buy a DD this coming weekend (I think, got a couple Rangers and an S10 to look at, though), then I'm gonna find a house with a shop/garage. I have no chance of getting things tight enough to go into the desert in 6 weeks, so I'll just concentrate on getting what I need together.

Hopefully have a house with space soon, then I can just tear this SOB down to the frame. Be easier, faster, and much less annoying than trying to work on it while it's also a DD.

[camoit]

I'm just not getting the parts together even HALF as fast as I'd hoped. .

Welcome to the club

[Acuta73]

Well, 6 hours til I'm rolling East into the shrub steppe. Really pissed this truck ain't goin with, but, next time she will. Nice to have the DD though, can tear into this thing at leisure and not worry about having it back together for work!

Hopefully can find a stupid deer willing to stand still at close range, wish me luck!

[tanzytinkerz]

How much did all this cost? I want to replace my mechanical fuel pump and want to do it right, but try not to be expensive? Or how do I do it cheaply?

Got the Schneider PN, will order as soon as I can source some damn mech rockers....

Got all my new fuel system together. -6 AN fittings and line. Overkill? HELL yes! There is NO kill like overkill! I want this truck to be bomb proof, this system will be.

9ft -6 AN sleeved hose (more than I need, but I hate being short)

25ft 5/16 hard line: only came in 25ft length and I needed to increase my return line size to make this work, so now both lines get replaced.

3x tube to hose adapters (hard line)

3x female -6 AN to hose (hard line)

2x 45° 3/8 NPT to -6 hose (canister in/regulator out)

1x 90° 1/4 NPT to -6 hose (pump out)

1x 1/4 NPT to -6 male nipple (pump in)

1x 90° Female -6 to Female -6 swivel (pump in)

1x 3/8 NPT union (connects canister and regulator)

1x 3/8 plug (for canister)

1x 3/8 to 1/8 NPT reducer bushing (for pressure gauge)

1x 90° 1/8 F to 1/8 M NPT (for pressure gauge)

Banjo Weber -6 AN fuel fitting

Stainless mounting hardware

Carter silencing kit (with lots of extra rubber gromets)

Billet 100 micron -6 AN pre filter

10 micron high-flow canister filter (HELLUVA lot bigger than I thought it was gonna be...)

Mallory 4309 3-12lb pressure regulator with return

Summit 15lb liquid filled fuel pressure gauge

Relay, 10ga wire, and breaker

thread seal tape

(pesky beer bottle migrated in there for scale)



Also got my Tuff Pan and a pair of manual hubs


Tuff Pan is more overkill, but again, bomb proof....

[DroppedMitsu]

Braides lines and -an fittings are not cheap, thats easily $100 in those alone. As he said that is overkill, all you need is rubber fuel line and a fuel pump/regulator.