Fuse clip holders replacement/fix ideas anyone?

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As you can see from the pics, someone had used red handled clips (I took one off already) to hold 2 fuses in their place after parts of a couple fuse holders broke off somehow:

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After about an hour with a stripped rusty screw I managed to get a view of the back of the fuse box. No plugs All wires individually connected, so I can't simply unplug the whole fuse box & bring it inside to see about fixing it. Maybe I'm being blonde... but I'm wondering if anyone else had this happen?

Then I thought about getting a whole new fuse box, until I saw the bridges? (not sure what they're called) on the backside where like 3 fuses are attached to one wire and then 3 wires. UGH! I have no idea how to do that and don't want to start a fire.

Can I just use electrical tape for the time being to keep from having to use the big red handled clips to hold the fuses in place? I know I can't solder the fuse to the holder... heat bad & all that.

I WILL fix it the right way after figuring it all out & thinking actually about relocating the darn thing, but need a quick temporary fix to stop using those red clips

One of my kids has a FULL TIME job offer unheard of 'round these parts for entry-level w/his skills, but he needs his drivers' license... this week. I'm afraid the DOL testing person will see the big red clips & think the truck's not safe to drive. I'm even thinking about where I can relocate the box to maybe just for a day... to hide those dang red clips.

[pennyman1]

Get pig tail fuse holders and solder them to the tabs to fix the fuse holder issue for now. The permanent solution is to replace the whole block. The bar across the back of several fuse holders is just a common buss bar - wire can be used in place of it. Just be sure that you use the same or heavier gauge wire when tying the fuses together. That is only an hour or 2 job if you can solder, or they also sell fuse blocks with crimp terminals or set screws that use blade fuses.

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Get pig tail fuse holders and solder them to the tabs to fix the fuse holder issue for now. The permanent solution is to replace the whole block. The bar across the back of several fuse holders is just a common buss bar - wire can be used in place of it. Just be sure that you use the same or heavier gauge wire when tying the fuses together. That is only an hour or 2 job if you can solder, or they also sell fuse blocks with crimp terminals or set screws that use blade fuses.

***SQUEEEE*** I could just hug you !!!! THank you thank you thank you!!!! Yeah, I can solder but I'm one of those people that probably shouldn't because don't understand circuits too well it takes me a long time to understand though I can eventually get it... or at least think I do. Saw the bar on the back & freaked! There's an order they need to be in?! Uh oh. Not a quick job after all. Crap I didn't even know it was OK to use wire instead of that bar! SWEET!

Just got back from the store (again) and bought some tab pieces hoping I can make it work, but didn't know about the pig tail fuse holders - well, I saw them but didn't know what they were for. Oh, the noobie in me is overflowing haha! Lots more reading to do, thank you so very much!

[ragragtimetime]

should you need it....i have 1 of these: http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...useblock-cover

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Yep yep, that'd be great. Let me know a good address/po box or whatever to send the $10 to and I'll do that asap, too.

I relocated the fuse box for now, along with whatever that grey metal box was that used to be next to it. I'm pretty sure it didn't go where it was anyway, lol. Found an empty screw/bolt hole & used that. Planning on moving the fuse box elsewhere (again) eventually just not a priority this weekend.

Not positive where everything will end up, but it's all OK for now. Need to stop by Ace Hardware again this week and pick up about 7 more new screws to replace stripped/rusty ones. Whoever had the truck before sure knew how to strip phillips screw heads Add a few decades of rust & jeez, terrible.

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Ok so I decided to expand the fuse box, so it'd be silly to get the cover. Currently thinking of putting everything in the glove box (it seems to get filled with junk anyway lol) or behind the seat since there's really no room for storage back there & sort of wasted space. Not sure about the best way to re-route wires & such but that'll sort itself out once I rip out the carpet.

The kid got his license and now has a full-time job - miracles happen. He is currently saying he wants to buy the truck from me ... he's driven it more than me

[BradMph]

what about right next to the already there fuse box?

The first car I owned I purchased from my mom almost 36 years ago. I rolled it 6 months later over a steep hill and almost ended up in a swimming pool. The good thing about it was...I got my 1974 Toyota Celica GT from the insurance claim, lol.

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6 months later, wow. Yeah, I'm pretty sure there's going to be an accident in the first year, too! With such low mileage on the truck I'd like him to sacrifice something else! Maybe with 200k miles on it already lol. Yeah, I think 91k is low. I can't recall the last time I drove anything other than rental cars under 140k.

Well, I already moved the fuse box so it's not on that driver's side panel anymore. Tucked it up sort of center towards the gear shift (automatic) so nobody's knee or foot would accidentally hit on a fuse. There are interior lights to add, speakers to add, a fuel shut off switch to be hidden, some sort of noise making/remote alarm to add, etc.

I'm short but the kids tall, so there's no room behind the seat since it's usually pushed back all the way. Was leaning towards putting fuses back there but then what if the rear window leaks? So maybe glovebox - saw some set ups in there that looked VERY handy! Pretty sick and tired of vehicles w/fuse boxes positioned so I'm backwards upside down in a pretzel position with a flashlight trying to find which fuse to check. Almost makes me seasick!