This is going to be a great build, good luck with it.
This is going to be a great build, good luck with it.
Thanks it is going to be an adventure for sure. I just need the wife to keep letting me spend money HAHA. I didnt realize there were lower bolts to the timing cover. So i got to drop the oil pan. On a 4x4 is there enough room to drop it and access those bolts? Or do I need to raise the engine some?
I got oil pan bolts out and was able to take timing cover and head off. Had coolant in oil but no sign of a bad head gasket. Wont know condition of block or head until I clean them up. Will post pics.
Maybe a hair crack in the head, and depending on your location if freezing weather exist and your anti-freeze was not up to par, you could crack the intake and allow antifreeze to flow through it.
Anyway, coolant in the oil and not oil in the coolant makes me think you have a crack in a water jacket or the head gasket has been breeched on a water port to oil port.
Yeah that is what I am thinking. We do freeze here and I noticed that one of the freeze plugs blew and someone used the rubber style so I am sure that is why the motor was tore down that far when I got it.
Here are some pictures of the head and pistons. I included head gasket but I havent cleaned everything up yet or got the rest of the block out. Beware it is pretty nasty.
IMG_1472.jpgIMG_1473.jpgIMG_1474.jpgIMG_1475.jpgIMG_1476.jpgIMG_1477.jpgIMG_1478.jpgIMG_1479.jpg
Well, strangely your head gasket looks nice. Examining the head, It looks like the issue beginning to clean the #2 & #3 cylinder valves. Decarbonizing them. Were you getting water loss as well as water in the oil? Did you happen to do a compression test before the build? It does not look like it has been doing this very long at all and doesn't look real serious either. Most the time with our engines , after over heating they acquire hairline cracks between the valves or if installed...MCA jet valves. Might be also a good time to install the MCA jet valve removal kit. For about $20 it can take that problem out of the picture for a possible later return of trouble.
Sure looks like you have some cleaner and brush time ahead...keep us posted on your findings
Rubber plug? oh great...I had that happen once and it blew out the entire bottom on intake in that circle weld. took 3 freeze plugs out and cracked the radiator top from seal. My first year in WA state and anti-freeze is my best friend now, lol.
Should of pulled engine, if you had a stand available. Save your back.
Grab a manual in our library if you need one also.
Last edited by BradMph; 03-16-2015 at 08:38 PM.
I picked the truck up with the valve cover off and most of the head bolts undone. Have no previous info on why it was like that from the guy. So everything right now is just a guess and mystery to solve. I am assuming it has been sitting for about 2 years or so judging by tags. I didnt do a compression test cause it was partial torn apart by previous destroyer (owner).
Bradmph, I didnt pull it cause its in my backyard and my garage is full of bathroom remodel items. I told the wife I would wait to start the truck until after the bathroom, but I am a guy and the truck is just way better to work on.
Picked up cleaner and wire brush. Wont be able to do any work until this weekend. Will post some clean pics here in a few days. Got to tackle the shift kit in my ford as well so depending on how long that takes will eat up some D50 time.
Please take pics of your progress as you clean. Interested to see how this comes out.
On hold for a couple days. Tried installing a shift kit in my ford and B&M put the wrong separator plate in the kit. So the daily driver has to be back on the road before I get a chance to press forward.
Finally got the shift kit done. So I will be able to get back to work on the Power Ram. Head cleaning is where I am at the moment. Will post pictures once I get it cleaned.
So I am cleaning the head with a brush and noticed it leaves little lines. Is that normal and when all done you polish it or am I using to stiff of a brush?
Stop using that brush! It is way too coarse if it is leaving marks. If they are deep enough, they could cause detonation due to hot spots from the uneven surface. Work out the marks with some 600 or 800 grit wet / dry sandpaper until smooth like the uncleaned ones.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Use a soft wire brush on a drill can help speed things up too. I used one for my 302 heads and it did amazing on the combustion areas. I would even put the drill in a vise and lock it in ON and use it on the individual valves. It tends to not leave those wire brush strokes because they leave gouge marks. Little wd40 loosens the material to help remove carbon deposits and keep scratching to minimum
Penny and brad, thanks for the advice. I will switch it out and see what happens. I have never cleaned a head just replaced the old ones with new. I switch to doing the intake manifold last night since I couldnt harm it. I have a softer brush so that is what I will continue with.
I have been using a dremel for all those hard to reach places in the intake manifold. Had no idea the dremel would ever come in handy! HAHA
Here are some pics of the intake manifold so far. A little more time and should look close to new.
IMG_1504.jpgIMG_1505.jpgIMG_1501.jpgIMG_1502.jpg
Thanks for the advice on the WD40 and the softer brush. There are only a few scratches on one cylinder so I once all clean i will then sand them out. WD40 is working wonders and I switched to a brass bristle brush so I wont scratch. Will post pics here soon. Lots of deposit's and just plain old gunk.
This is of the cylinder that I scratched. Looks like it should all come out and that they arent too deep. Let me know what you think. I only had a tiny bit of WD40 so I will get more tomorrow and finish up the head. The scratches are in the upper left so if you click on the pic to make it bigger you can see some that dont follow the normal swirl.
IMG_1525.jpg
Here are the other cylinders. Ran out of WD so I didn't get that far but they appear to be cleaning well.
Last edited by BradMph; 10-29-2015 at 05:52 PM.
Any reason why the pictures arent showing and there is only a link?
Response from Bradmph
You took too long posting and the system flushed them probably
Last edited by BradMph; 10-29-2015 at 05:54 PM. Reason: fix
Well, spring and summer came and this truck took a back seat. Now that fishing and camping have stopped I am ready to start back at it. So I left off with head work and intake. That is where I am picking back up. I will post some more once I get everything back on track. Got to find a place for my boat this winter so that I can use the garage for the truck.
Are you going to strip the head down and send it off to a machine shop? It's probably due for some new valve stem seals, so now would be a good time do some light port work and round off the sharp edges in the combustion chambers. A little bit of a clean up will make the engine run smoother. Getting a head checked, refaced and the valve seats recut isn't cheap but is important. btw if the head is warped make sure the machine shop will press it straight and not just run it through the mill - this is a really bad thing to do to a cylinder head...
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