Hey y'all. I've got an 89 fitty with the 2.0 and 5 speed. Absolutely no power and bogs out severely, when you turn the key off it does that funky ain't gonna die tries to keep running and clattering. I know the issue when you turn the key off is usually timing on the v8's but I haven't had a 4 cylinder with a junky mikuni do it. Possibly the carb on both issues or a little carb and timing?
If it low on power and the 'diesels' after you kill the ignition then you definitely have carb woes. No mid top end power usually means the secondary on the carb isn't working. Dieselling means either the fuel cut solenoid isn't connected or is no longer functioning, or its severely overfuelling. If it stumbles from idle and is a little hesitant off the mark the accelerator enrichment jet isn't functioning. The Mikuni should be rebuilt every 10 years to maintain reliable operation but things like the auto choke giving out or the secondary vacuum actuator failing are wear and tear components (the auto chokes usually fail from overheating/lack of coolant) They're not a 'bad' carb but they hold these engines back on power - and they're complicated to pull down and rebuild. The Weber is easy to source and are a common upgrade plus they're simple in the way they function.
Thank you sir. Weber is ordered and on the way, white choke genuine of course.
just part of the dodgy-assed service I provide! (re-read my own post. Man, I should get caffienated before doing that again...even I could barely make sense of it and it was me who put it up there)
Haha...I understood it perfect, I have 4 kids so I'm fluent in some jibberish.
Alright I installed a genuine weber, tuned it, got my dizzy adjusted to what seems to be the optimal spot. I still have bog out and power issues. New plugs, wires, cap, rotor, gutted cat, new fuel filter and did a vacuum test on the vacuum advance with good results. What the hell is going on here?
fuel pump is weak - did you use the old mechanical pump or replace it with a pusher electric one back at the tank?
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Its got the manual on it right now. I put my pressure gauge on it and was getting 6 out of it. I put a mr gasket regulator on it and got it down to 3 psi
an inline reg drops the flow as well as the pressure, and will kill an old pump quickly with the back pressure on the pump. You may be able to run the inline reg off of a t fitting with the output of the reg going to the return line instead of the carb. The best solution though is an electric pump.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Yes sir I agree with the electric pump. Just have to get my money back right again
If it's a big flat spot when hitting the gas then you need more accel pump squirt. If it's just bog all the time the float can be to low. Of the fuel filter is totally plugged.
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What is the jetting like on the Weber? It may take a jet swap to get it running right. And did you go for the timing light 'by the book' tune or do it by ear and feel? I've suggested on a couple of different posts to dial in the distributor by holding rpms @ 2000 and adjusting the distributors' advance and retard until the engine rpm jumps, then dialling it back a little. When you get it right the engine will really come to life. You're close - it won't take much to get it running right.Originally Posted by TotallyBalistic
I've tried it both ways on the timing geez, with è different timing lights and they were all the same. Its a 32/36 dgev weber, the jetting I'd whatever came in it. I don't understand cause I had a 88 Ram50 I put a 79 2.0 in. Threw a weber on it with 0 tuning and an electric pump with no regulator and that truck ran beautiful and got 25-26 mpg. I never had a problem out of it until it dropped a jet valve on top of a piston.
I'll be talking from the aviation side of things as I'm a new mighty max owner.
So you done:
stock Weber jetting with idle system tuning
Ignition timing & advance
Fuel pressure to carb adj to 3psi.
The issue is still almost surely Fuel delivery but why not humor some other issues?
How do your spark plugs look?
Original catalytic, egr and muffler?
Here are the the jetting sizes for a 32/36 DGAV relating to a 2000cc engine-
Main jet - (primary throat) 1.35
(secondary throat) 1.30
Air Correction - (primary throat) 1.75
(secondary throat) 1.45
Emulsion tube - (primary throat) F50
(secondary throat) F66
Idle jet (primary throat) 0.50
(secondary throat) 0.50
Idle air (primary throat) 1.50
(secondary throat) 0.70
The cat is gutted, egr blocked, plugs are brand new neck v-power and show running lean, stock muffler
This is really puzzling. It sounds like the primary is blocked (?) and you're only fuelling from the secondary. The secondary is obviously working and it's running lean so it has to be a fuel delivery issue. I wouldn't want to strip down a new carb but it's beginning to look like you might have to just so you can get a better idea of wtf is going on in there
Have you put a vacuum gage on it to check the valve train?
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No I haven't. Haven't even thought about that camoit
It could be a burnt or stuck MCA causing your problem. God knows they never go bad.
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I was thinking that as well - jet valve delete for the win!
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Now to find the kit, any suggestions?
Courtesy of maxdsm - http://www.silver-seal.com/product/6...L---Short.html
Or go here where I found them: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHRYSLER-JET...RUfOMD&vxp=mtr
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Weird that they call them Chrysler jet valves. Nearly of our early Mitsubishi stuff was sold under the Chrysler Australia company name...
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