My first generation build

[Fatmanwa]

Ok, so thinking back on what I was doing. When I did the original timing, it was only a little off, adjusted it and was done. I went to the carb next and noticedoI forgot to reconnect the vacume line for the distributor. Redid the timing and that's when it was way off. Adjusted it and started the carb again. Had some trouble as I think the throttle cable or something is pulling just hard enough that it idles faster then normal. Like you are resting your foot on the gas pedal. I put pressure on he linkage so that it's at idle and need to have the mix screw out almost two tunes before the engine sounds decent. The idle screw isn't even touching the linkage.

My plan is to try and find the timing mark on the pully with the engine off. Then put the mix screw back to 1 turn out. Then try and set the timing again. Where on the pully is the mark? Previous owner marked several spots with some paint, so just trying to figure out which is correct.

[Fatmanwa]

Oh, the reason thevacume line was off was from replacing the I take manifold. And I also do not know what the exact ram is, might need to go buy a gauge or something to get a better idea. I just know it seems faster than what it should be.

[85Ram50]

The timing mark on my 85 Ram is a notch in the pulley if that helps figure out the marks. I marked it and 5btdc with a silver sharpie.

[Fatmanwa]

Don't know what the rim is as I don't have a tac. But it seems high as I feel like the throttle cable is pulling to much on the carb linkage. I can push it a bit and the rpms go down to what sounds normal. Gonna try and do everything over again tomorrow. Can someone post a pick of what the timing mark looks like? The previous owner seemed to have marked a couple spots and I just want to make sure I am looking at the right thing.

[Fatmanwa]

That last post was kind of a duplicate of the previous post as I didn't realize this thread made it to page two! Thought one of my posts didn't work, and I can't figure out how to delete things.

[Fatmanwa]

Thewe are the instructions I was following for the carb adjustment.

[Fatmanwa]

http://www.carburetion.com/Weber/adjust.htm

[Fatmanwa]

Ok, I am positive I did the timing right. I am positive I did the carb adjustment right. But when this engine goes down to low idle it still sounds like a diesel. It does not lag as much when I start to gain speed, but it still does. And if I push it it will back fire. What I find I find interesting is it out does this at a certain rpm range. Low it's fine, high it's fine. It just lags in the middle while gaining speed.

My current plan is to run sea foam through the carb and try cleaning it out. Also plan on replacing plugs. I will also look up how to see if the distributor is off by a tooth and adjust if needed. Engine also still runs on after I turn it off, but on do feel like it's not as bad, or I am getting better at letting out the clutch a bit.

[geezer101]

What do the plugs look like? If they've got carbon on them I'd suspect it's running rich (and/or the timing is still out). Maybe consider replacing the ignition coil as well. Have a good look at the throttle cable and make sure it's not over adjusted or binding somewhere as this will prevent you from getting the idle rpm in the ball park. If you can't set the throttle linkage stop it will mess with all your other adjustments (timing, air fuel etc)

[Fatmanwa]

Got the timing done with the proper procedure. Now it runs fine. Still has a bit of a run on, but I plan on doing seafoam today and plugs tomorrow. They are pretty dirty. Throttle cable seems tight, gonna try and figure out how to adjust it. But I also feel like the springs on it and the carb are weak. I plan on buying new linkage for the carb in the near future. Probably same time I do the rebuild.

[geezer101]

Give the linkages a spray with WD40. It might help freeing them up and getting them to actuate smoother. Also take the throttle cable out and give it a dose of WD40 as well. If it feels like it's grinding you might be better off finding (or even making) a new throttle cable assembly. I bodged one up out of a heavy duty MTB brake cable and a brass barrel lock for another project and it worked great and was dirt cheap too.

[pennyman1]

Graphite oil is better for cables - it stays long after WD40 evaporates and lubricates better. Locksmiths use it for locks.

[Fatmanwa]

I did the seafoam, and it only smoked a little while sprayijg. Zero smoke after soaking. Seemed strange after seeing all the other videos belching smoke. Gonna compare the plugs once the engine cools down. Probably buy some new onestuff tomorrow. Oh, and it didn't run on after I turned off the engine!

[Fatmanwa]

Decided to grease the fittings today, pretty sure I need to replace all the ball joints, tie-rods, bushings galore! Is it a requirement to replace the a-arms with all of these? I also noticed the bushings around the torsion (?) Bars peeled apart. They actually felt like grease or really soft rubber. What's up with that?

[pennyman1]

they have deteriorated from age - get the urethane bushings for the strut rod and lower control arm bushings.

[Fatmanwa]

Looking at ball joint tools, is there a specific size I should get? Or are the standard sets on amazon good enough?

[geezer101]

Get OEM replacements or nothing will fit back together. My recommendation is using ones that can be greased regularly. Sealed units won't last as long and have a tendency to be el cheapo quality.

[pennyman1]

regular ball joint tools work fine.

[Fatmanwa]

Been a long time since I have updated this thread. Haven't really done anything since the weather has been crazy. But I have decided to buy a 2" body lift from 4crawler and hopefully fit something a little taller than 27" tires in the truck. I plan on going with some general grabber at2's.

Does anyone have experience with the 4crawler body lift? Or any brand of body lifts? Care to give some advice?

[Fatmanwa]

Decided to rebuild the carb. Went to unscrew the cap for the filter, and the screw decided to break off. Now I have broken off threads in the housing. What to do what to do.

[Fatmanwa]

Boy it's been a ling time again. Got the truck up and running for the gambler 500 and had a blast!

Been working in this and that to prepare for the next race, but all of a sudden the head lights stopped working! The previous owner did something that "made" the lights work through a toggle switch. I tried repairing some of the crap wire job they did, but headlights still do not work. Think it's best just to rip it all out and start over. Anyone have a suggestion on a wiring kit for these trucks? The prvmivious owner removed all the relays and who knows what else. That's why I am thinking a lot would be best.

Also, once a weber is installed, can I just throw out the ecm? It is the thing on the passenger side right? Really wanting to clean up the wiring in this truck. If I had the time I would consider removing all the wiring and using some sort of harness from painless or similar brand.

[Fatmanwa]

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Here are some pictures of the wiring that is in the truck. The one I am holding comes from the alternator and currently splits off to the battery and the plug holding all of the wires for the headlights. I am assuming one of those plastic bits is a fusible link like the chilton manual says should be there.

[geezer101]

I am going to recommend you get your hands on another wiring loom from a wreck and clean slate the truck. It will make your life easier and will be cheaper than a full aftermarket kit that will have a bunch of connections you will still need to modify to make it work with the factory plugs. My advice is, while you're at it - buy an aftermarket headlight adapter loom from ebay and upgrade your lights to H4 halogens. You can get them cheap enough and halogens are by far one of the best improvements you can add onto your truck -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-Headlight....c100011.m1850

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOUR-4x6-Hal....c100005.m1851 (you can get them with sexy looking black housings as well)

As for the ECM module, rip it out. It's another electrical gremlin waiting to ambush you and it's just dead weight (when it comes to competing, light = might)

[Fatmanwa]

I am going to recommend you get your hands on another wiring loom from a wreck and clean slate the truck. It will make your life easier and will be cheaper than a full aftermarket kit that will have a bunch of connections you will still need to modify to make it work with the factory plugs. My advice is, while you're at it - buy an aftermarket headlight adapter loom from ebay and upgrade your lights to H4 halogens. You can get them cheap enough and halogens are by far one of the best improvements you can add onto your truck -

http://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-Headlight....c100011.m1850

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FOUR-4x6-Hal....c100005.m1851 (you can get them with sexy looking black housings as well)

As for the ECM module, rip it out. It's another electrical gremlin waiting to ambush you and it's just dead weight (when it comes to competing, light = might)

Thanks for the tip Geezer! I actually did visit a junkyard yesterday in hopes of finding some parts, but they must have just cleared the row that listed an 85 truck. There is another yard farther away that has an 87, not sure it will still be there when I get the chance to take a look at it. Do you think a wire harness from any truck would work well?

[Fatmanwa]

Here are some pictures of the truck during the Gambler 500. If you go to Instagram and look up FATMANWA, I have a couple videos there.

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