First Gen D50 Baja body kits Available now

[camoit]

Now Available First Gen D50. Complete fiberglass Baja Kits or parts of it. You are able to get any, or all of the body parts from my build. Price is listed in a lower post.

Here is what the cost is from fiberglass Jeff. Pricing does not include shipping.
Rear bed sides cost $575.00 each Or a full bed set for $1000.00
Complete Front End $1550.00
Complete package including left and right rear bedsides and complete front end. $2250.00
This does NOT include shipping or any hardware. Glass only.. Parts need to be fitted and there is finish body work involved. This is for the glass only. Carbon fiber starts as low as $8300.00 more for the complete package. This depends on the type of carbon fiber used.


This is cheep in comparison to what it has taken to make just one kit. My cost to produce the plugs, molds, and 1 full kit is around $18500.00 But this is the price you pay to have a one of a kind body. The good news is you get parts with out the cost of the molds.

Rear Bed Sides are cut around the stock wheel well by 2 inches, flared out 5 inches and shortened in the rear by 1 foot. They have plenty of clearance for over sized tires.

Front hood and fenders. Fenders are now 1/4 the size they were and the hood and flairs widen the front by 14 inches in total. The hood will be a 1 peace, with the 2 quarter fenders.

These pictures are of the unfinished plugs. I will get the finished pictures up Sunday.

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[camoit]

Here is what the bed sides will look like. This is only the Plug, not the part.
The actual part will only be a shell of the out side. Nothing on the inside, just a shell totally open with a 1 inch lip added for strength around the wheel opening.
I will have pictures of the parts soon.


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[LiL Bastard]

can't wait to see the finished product

[parrell456]

I noticed the body lines of the original parts were skillfully carried over to work with the look of the new parts. Fantastic work.

-RHP

[camoit]

I noticed the body lines of the original parts were skillfully carried over to work with the look of the new parts. Fantastic work.

-RHP

Thank you for the comment. It really means a lot when up against a truck like yours. Mabe we can meat up some day for side by side picts.

Since she is a D50 with a major over dose of steroids and has been working out in the gym the body has changed. The lines are only in some places and not in others. Like the very rear looses the but crack down the middle but still has the upper radius to show off them sexy hips. While the front end gets Brest implants and a face lift.

[camoit]

One peace hood weight :26 Lbs.
Front quarter fenders weight: 2 Lbs each
Rear bed side weight: 13.5 Lbs each.
That makes a total of 57 Lbs for all the parts.
Will add in pictures later on.

True race parts weight is about 1/2 of what I have. There made for street use. Race parts are known as a splash part. Thats why they just seem to blow up during a race. There designed that way.

[camoit]

Here is what the cost is from fiberglass Jeff. Pricing does not include shipping.

Rear bed sides cost $575.00 each Or a full bed set for $1000.00
Complete Front End $1550.00
Complete package including left and right rear bedsides and complete front end. $2250.00
This does NOT include shipping or any hardware. Glass only.. Parts need to be fitted and there is finish body work involved. This is for the glass only. Carbon fiber starts as low as $8300.00 more for the complete package. This depends on the type of carbon fiber used.





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[Fordubishi]

Now get a real big antenna and put it on top, then take some card board box's and make a huge radio control unit, place beside the truck and take a pic

[camoit]

I had a 102 inch steel CB antenna on the camo truck for a long time. I was able to break lots of florescent lights at drive through and gas stations. Just drive through in second gear and I could turn the place dark. It was pretty funny.

[4D55 Performance]

Very interesting, this is much different than the fiberglass parts I am working on. Yours is much more extreme than what I am going for. I am retaining the hood and bedsides and go with full fiberglass front fenders and some 5" fiberglass flares for the bed. I have really opened up the front wheel wells and the rears are already capable of stuffing a 35". The OEM front fenders were so small that you would experience rubbing even with a 30" tire. I am trying my hardest to make my fenders look 100% stock.

[pennyman1]

How did you do the flares on the rear of the 1st gen - metal or glass?

[camoit]

Mine is a 7 inch flair, but the truck is now 1.5 foot wider in the front end. The wheels still stick out side the flair by 4.5 inches at mid travel. One thing to keep in mind is the stock fenders are crap and there is a real good chance they will not survive the mold process. Mine folded like paper at the bottom near the door. Have you done many molds? In by build thread I show some tricks on the flanging process. Just look closely at the pictures.

It would be nice if you flange the mold around the flair it's self, before doing the rest of the fender. This way you can make just a flair or complete fender and flair. It might be worth the extra day just to give your self the option. Then you can sell the flair as a bolt on option for stock fenders. It just makes the mold more versatile for you. You would have somthing like a 7 peace mold when done. Mine is 6 just for what would be 1 fender if it was stock. Next year it might be a full stock fiberglass cab out sides.

[camoit]

How did you do the flares on the rear of the 1st gen - metal or glass?

On mine, the first thing that was done was to shorten the bed by 1 foot. Then cut the opening larger and weld in sheet metal to the width it was going to be. Next came a cardboard dam around the hole bed side about 8 inches high. 2 part, 4 pound expanding foam over the hole thing. Sand to rough shape. Fill in all the BIG holes with bondo and cover with 2 layers of glass to make a hard shell. Then it's the basic finish work after that to make the final shape. I go into a lot of detail in my build thread. Parts 1 and 2 on the molding.

[4D55 Performance]

Thanks for the tip but the front fenders that I am pulling my mold from are glass fenders so I will not have any issues with them surviving the process. I agree the OEM fenders are pretty weak in spots. My front fenders will provide 5.5" of coverage.

I am making my rear flares out of glass as well.

[4D55 Performance]

On mine, the first thing that was done was to shorten the bed by 1 foot. Then cut the opening larger and weld in sheet metal to the width it was going to be. Next came a cardboard dam around the hole bed side about 8 inches high. 2 part, 4 pound expanding foam over the hole thing. Sand to rough shape. Fill in all the BIG holes with bondo and cover with 2 layers of glass to make a hard shell. Then it's the basic finish work after that to make the final shape. I go into a lot of detail in my build thread. Parts 1 and 2 on the molding.

I have tried a lot of different foams and taxidermy foam is the trick. It cures in 5 minutes, it leave very small holes, and it does not shrink at all like other POS foam products. It's also much easier to work with and shape.

[camoit]

How much is the cost on it, and how sticky is it? I used a 5 gallon kit on my project. I think next time I will take the parts over to the spray foam insulator guys that spray houses and have them lay it on. It makes for a more uniform coverage and expansion. It would have saved time and money just to have them spray it when there doing a house. $20.00 cash and Jose would have had it done in a flash.

[yamahlr]

What fantastic work fellas!

[Sgt Mitsu]

Is this still available?