Fancy seeing you here fordubishi, I'm literally on your thread right now looking at those same things. It looks like you don't have little brackets on your wheel tubs to the top of the bed side either.
The cabbend panel of the tray on mine isn't rolled like the bed floor either, it's folded in and framed at the edges.
Looks like all the panels are the same, we just have them made a bit lazier.
I also noted you have the rivets too.
Wheel tubs fit in the same spot, look to be the same size. So I think any panel I make would work on any tray.
The flat panels Infront of and behind the wheel wells actually work better for how I'm going to modify the tray later on so that's cool
Someone just noted this on my other forum
But here is a bit of useless trivia. These were pressed in Palmerston North at a company called Coachwork International. They were the only company in NZ to have a press big enough (400ton) to emboss the lettering on the tailgate. They stamped all the major brands wellsides back in the day due to local content rules.
Mildly interesting... or not
Chopped some more off. The rails mount the bed to the chassis, both the upper and lower skirts are attached underneath them. Didn't really want to take them off but there was some rust creeping that I couldn't ignore.
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The ones in the middle are just to strengthen the bed and look pretty good so they can stay
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I also unpicked this corner. Very gentle not to ruin it, it's rusted through right across though. The other side is good enough to stay on.
Any seam that hasn't been unpicked will get scrubbed up and injected with rust converter, epoxy, seam sealer where needed, and the whole.lot will get chassis waxed
Ok I lied. There's not much holding these bits on and the pitting on the bedside seam is worth getting rid of
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The rust under the other seams isn't too bad considering the rest of the tray. I won't unstitch the tail light section, so I'm happy just loading it up with rust converter
Painted everything that was fixed and would be under a seam. Re used the wonky factory spotweld holes and added some where they were missing. Don't think I will take any dents out of the floor, I'm going to use and abuse it, I will out a thick layer of bedliner on it when it's done.
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Have some more bits to paint before they go back on and then I can start on the other side
Apparently I made this patch 10mm too narrow.
In my defence I made it to the same level as the rest of the wheelwell. On closer inspection it appears Todd motors just filled in the gaps on the front and rear with seam sealer.
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The strengthener on the underside only just lined up to where it should be, I think I even trimmed a little off but never clicked. Haha oh well, caught it before stitching the side back on
It's still better than what i did with my bed.
I cut it out and redid it, came out much nicer than it was too, so pretty happy. Hope to put the side back on this weekend
Ah crap, after all that nice work you had to go back over itStill, it turned out damned good!
Stripped the 4L60e right down this afternoon
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I was expecting it to have been ragged to death judging from the blown engines laying around at the guys I got it from, but is in great condition. A few orings were a bit hard, so definitely a good idea to do it
You're gonna have a new rig in no time.
Spend all day
1. Cleaning and reassembling trans ☒
2. Making a one time use tool ☑
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I'm guessing that is to compress springs? Nice work.
To compress the low reverse spring in the rear of the trans housing
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Need to compress it to get the snap ring out.
Looks like the commercially available ones lock inside the castings in the trans body and push it down. Which is kinda odd because then you have even less room to get your snap ring pliars in there, and if you are this deep in the trans the shaft comes out anyway. I'm sure there's a reason.
Should work on most GM autos too, not that I expect to rebuild any more
Learned a bit more about 4L60e's while stripping this down, which means more money and more waiting on stuff to arrive.
Being from a VS Commodore it means the trans is a fairly early 4L60e and there's been a few updates by GM over the years, so I'm getting some of those parts which will increase longevity and reduce parasitic loss (so increased power to the wheels and less fuel consumption which is ideal)
Glad I did the full strip down, I had it in my mind that VS commodres were fairly new, but they are actually from 1995, and so the seals have all had 25 years of heat and oil.
So many parts available to build these up it's easy to get in the trap of spending lots of money and having a beast of a trans. But I've managed to stay in control and come up with a mix of parts that should give me 25 more years of use out of it with only oil changes to worry about. I never want to take it back out haha.
No need to build it for 5-600 hp when I'm expecting 200, even a supercharged V6 doest break 250
tortron, I once owned a 1994 9C1 (police version) Chevrolet Caprice; it had the 4L60e behind the LT-1 5.7L Corvette engine with that Opti Spark distributor... When rebuilt it should last a good while; they make thick aluminum cooling fin oil pans & like you said all sorts of go better parts... I changed the torque converter from original to one from a S-10 Chevy truck; gave 800rpm higher stall speed but the original was a better match...
1st gen tray cab end
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Panel unbolt, has a 3mm or so flat bar as a spacer, that could be replaced with a C channel to make a headache bar.
2nd gen factory headache bar (nz market at least) is held to cab end panel by factory bolts and was welded on in the corners.
Spot welds, And by the 3 upright bars which were drilled through and welded into the end panel
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Some the 2nd gen end panel is wider than the 1st gen, so could cut a little out of the middle and weld it to fit. Or make a whole new one using some C channel uprights
Thank you tortron for all these details ~ I thought the headache rack was made from square tube but it is actually "c" channel ~
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