The snorkel might be the way to go if you're not against the ideal of blowing a couple of big holes in your truck. Still need an air box for the panel filter though and my bet is it's getting pretty cozy in there space wise.
The snorkel might be the way to go if you're not against the ideal of blowing a couple of big holes in your truck. Still need an air box for the panel filter though and my bet is it's getting pretty cozy in there space wise.
p.s. you've had a run of bad luck of recent with the flat tyre and now bending the front bar. Luck has to improve sometime soon!
Was a new tyre too. Need to get it patched today.
Start a new job next week so the good luck is I can throw some pocket money at this to make some problems go away
So, my bent bumper cap
Ordered a new old stock Taiwanese repro one. A local company seems to be the only place to get them from, but i assume theres a warehouse full of parts in Taiwan.
even though the metal is zinc passivated, i gave everything a coat of black zinc, along with the inside of the bumper bar, before installation
I have no idea what that threaded rod part is for?
nice fit, matches my other side too
had bent the end of the bumper a bit more than i thought, but it flattened back out with a BFH. once i get a correct bolt for the bottom hole i will give it a few small taps and it will be perfect.
and a wipe with paint thinner takes off the shed paint
nones the wiser
is that small threaded part on the inside next to the welded on nut for the bottom bolt for anything?
what about the link for the bumper cap?
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Horrible mess
see where the filter has slipped and the line has been rubbed by the throttle
so I bought some stuff
I ended up doing double flares.
also alloy fuel line is legal here incase anyone asks
bent up and flared
and installed
let the fuel pump prime for a while, and then let the engine run, gave it some revs, and no issues with leaks, so I'm confident its all ok. lines don't move about at all, but I do have some decent line clamps to mount them to the fire wall with on their way.
Need to relocate the fuel filter to the chassis rail near the fuel pump. old one I don't think has ever been changed, so might open it up and check
need to do something about the rest of the loom etc some time, but looks a lot better, its bothered me every time I open the bonnet
Nice work. Would've been 'entertaining' if the high pressure hose wore through. We aren't allowed to use braided fuel lines in Oz due to ADR not using an internationally recognised method of testing (but new cars off the showroom floor can have braided everything apparently...) The alloy lines look more finished anyway IMO.
Yeah imo full soft lines is a lazy way out. The law here is that hard lines "should" be used "where possible" hard lines can also go a little closer to exhausts etc i believe. But its more or less anything goes. Tidy lines says alot about a build
And it happens in 3s. Front left wheel bearing just collapsed with a pop.Originally Posted by geezer101
Strange. It had no noise apart from 15 seconds of slight squeel before it went
that sucks - seized then exploded.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Yeah what a pain. Went 2km from work on my way back from lunch. Luckily i get free tows and there was a bearing kit on the shelf at the parts store. Out of town for the weekend, but might get time to do it on sunday afternoon if its not a disaster
I think you got very lucky. If you were travelling at speed or were way out of town this could've been disastrous.
Luck loves a fool mate
so into the meat of it
how to change a wheel bearing on your truck
jack up, put on jack stands, remove wheel
remove calliper, 2 calliper bolts and one on the dust shield (2 17mms and a 10mm). Support calliper out of the way so its not hanging off the rubber line
Remove grease cap, pull out split pin, undo nut (30mm, it wont be tight) and remove keyed washer/spacer
Sparkle sparkle, lots of metal and no grease
Pull off the hub and rotor assembly
Clean up the spindle
mine has a few light marks, normally you can just clean these off of they are light. This one is not too bad, at least the gearing races came off with the hub and its not turned blue from heat or anything
Knock out the bearing races from the hub. Each race has 3 notches in the housing where you can place a punch to knock them out
My outer bearing had failed. The race split in half when I knocked it out, the bearings themselves have a blue tinge on the ends so they had gotten hot, and there was very little grease in the hub
Knock or press the new races in
in this case I used the old races to get them started, then swapped to a punch to seat them down
Here is where I ran into a problem. The outer race was a loose fit. Same part number on the new and old. Looking at the bearings they didn't look too old, what I believe happened was that the previous bearing failure resulted in a wallered out hub face, the last bearing was fitted, probably not packed with grease correctly either, and because the fit was loose the race has spun and cooked the grease out of the bearing and seized it.
Machining out the hub and fitting a sleeve would be ideal, however in this case I used a pin punch to raise the surface and shrink the hub hole (when you hit metal with a punch there will be a divot, the area around it will raise up). This should last a few years at least. In this case it was a good option for me because I have 2nd gen spindles waiting to be cleaned up and installed.
And that's the last of the pictures. Search online for how to correctly pack a bearing with grease, you want it totally packed with no air bubbles. You then rub a bit of grease on the spindle, install the inner bearing, install the lip seal ontop of that, load some grease inside the hub, place the outer bearing in the race. Place the whole assembly on the spindle and torque the nut down tight to seat everything, then loosen it off and retorque to the correct level. Pack some grease in the grease cup to stop water getting in, and make sure to use a new split pin.
spins nice now, I ordered a second bearing kit incase I need to do the other side soon too
There is an art to packing a bearing. You can buy a gadget to force it through the roller cages or keep scooping it through like ice cream but if you don't get it right, the bearing isn't going to give you it's best (as per the above pictures - geez people, grease is cheap - no excuse for it looking like that...) Did you take the entire Gen 2 assemblies? Once I get the right lower control arm bushes and pay someone to press in the ball joint (I DIY'ed one and wasn't super happy with the end result) I'll be ready to glue my front end back together. No cash, not much time
Thought I had better sort that fuel filter before it caused me issues
grubby existing lines and wires
Fuel feed kinked and not even flared
Area cleaned, painted with black zinc, mount position drilled and rivnut, fuel line bent up to meet new filter, and fuel line flared
Cheap filter/pump mount. I cut off one leg as its otherwise too wide for the chassis rail. I kept the cut off leg as a spacer so the body of the filter would clear the existing return and brake lines. drilled a new hole in the chassis rather than using that existing one as the cab floor goes up here allowing me to get the filter nice and tucked out of the way
And all mounted
Do need to do some nice tidy wiring at some point, and I wrote the km on the filter for the next guy (probably me) 250000km on the speedo (but it was 20% slow for 20 years so who knows)
And the results are in on the intake temperatures
With engine at operating temp and moving at between 30 and 100kph the temperature in the airbox (just after the filter) is consistantly 5 degrees C over ambiant temperature. Temperatures at the end of the air intake pipe just before the throttle body are consistantly 10 degrees higher than that.
So at cruise throttle body air is 15 degrees C warmer than ambiant.
This rises rapidly when in stopped or very slow moving traffic, but drops back within about a minute of free flowing driving. So no major heat soak issues. (there are plenum insulators / risers for the buick engine, i might try pull some data on the intake air temp one day)
So what next
I think i will fold up some small snorkle from airbox to inner lamp panel and see if sucking air from next to the radiator is any better. Then i might try a survival blanket or something on the intake pipe. Im not super worried about these temps
I doubt Holdens were either when they took an outdated FWD engine and jammed it in their bogan sleds (distinctive Australian cultural terminology). It's probably been affecting fuel economy and idle stability from day one. It would be beneficial to actually vent the bonnet/hood to let heat escape the whole engine bay (will impact both intake temps and radiator efficiency).
Although i dont boil over the temp gauge sits a little higher than i would like when coupled with hot summer days and bad traffic (if i ever want to drive this hard id imagine i could spend more time at hot temps, i also want to make a full engine and box under body guard which will reduce sump cooling and airflow)
So i think im going to putnone of these here
It tucks away quite nicely
Height is about spot on, and length goes to the end of the behind number plate hole, so almost made for it
It will go in nicely with some brackets from existing bolts, and i will shroud the edges off, and protect it with some mesh. I dont like to mount itbin the bumper because well they get bumped. Otherwise i could mount it centered
I think i would need to add speed holes though. Even then i think a small thermo fan would be ideal to get airflow when i need it.
But in that cases i may as well put it under the tray with custom venting and fan where its protected
Probably thinking too much as i dont go off road (bad roads yes)
And yes i have a thermo sandwich plate to go with it
You could do with a better thermo fan. That will at least decrease the cooling cycle times and draw less power from the system. Otherwise the extra cooler is sweet dude
Last edited by geezer101; 05-04-2018 at 10:03 PM.
Oil change today
Used a ryco long life filter and nulon full synthetic 10w40 last time, had done about 13000km since last change. Engine didn't use or leak any oil like i was told would happen on full synthetic, maintained good oil pressure since iv had the gauge, and it looked and smelt alright just now. So i have used the same again.
Had hoped to install the filter sandwich plate, but i needed the hose clamps i had for something else so no luck there. Had also hoped to fit an oil temp gauge to the sump, but ut looks like an engine out job (sump also had taken a few hits so i want to flatten it out) and i couldnt use any of my adapters in the sump plug (not ideal incase it gets pulled out) or inline with the oil pressure sender (wount be in the oil flow and barely fits past the belts)
So just maintenance this time.
Im going to also put an oil temp gauge in the trans cooler line, i hope to use one gauge on 2 senders.
Maybe all that will have to wait for a big service
Picked up a pait of hella worklights for $5. Bargin. Plus the holes for wiring were already in the bar. Will turn them sideways at a camp site or roadside repair. Haha
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