nothing like a minty fresh engine.
nothing like a minty fresh engine.
Wanting to get this done it’s cutting in on my doing nothing.
Engine pretty much in, now mounting and hooking up elec fuel pump. Taking off small fender piece for access, any wiring tips, to fuse box..? And I read somewhere ground up front.? Any suggestions? Thanks.
Hook the main power wire for your pump off the ignition power going into your coil (so it powers up with the engine running circuit) The ideal way is using that power from the coil as a relay trigger wire and have a relay with an inbuilt fuse run the fuel pump (the power wire is going a long way and you don't want it to accidentally wear through or make contact with the chassis anywhere) There are a few other things to consider like an emergency cut off switch (if you are unlucky enough to end up on your lid or a bad collision) and possibly a manual override switch in the cab as well (rude surprise for anyone who tries to steal your truck) I'd ground it off the frame in a good, clean location next to the pump - less chance of another wire wearing through from vibration or dropping down if the clips/ties holding it up break.
This looks 'chintzy' but it would work (offload the crap push button switch maybe for a toggle/rocker switch) -
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wiring-Harn...QAAOSwpxFaubpf
Thanks geezer I appreciate your advice.
Before and after of the fuel pump install, still need to build a cover for it, add some fluids hook up the new carb linkage and fire it up.
Make sure your fuel hoses are either well secured or sheathed. You don't want the hoses to wear through on anything metal.
It's in a good location - nice and high but accessible. A shroud will go a long way to prevent debris from hitting it. Make sure it won't collect dirt and water and it should be rock solid. Let us know how your test run goes and feedback on the pump and your set up. It will help members with future installs
Under the carb’s electric choke are two openings one closed off with a brass rod the other brass rod open ended and it’s the one closest to the cab. Does the distributor vacuum line go to it? I read some where interchange the two brass rods and plug the vacuum line into the port closest to the front of the engine and plug off the one closest to the cab.
Also no fuel return line to the tank with the electric pump? Can I disconnect and cap off the return line back at the tank?
Having some distributor issues figuring out the alignment to match up timing. Distributors are not my best thing.
This is the tricky part with installing an electric fuel pump on a Mikuni carb. You need to be able to split fuel delivery between the primary fuel inlet and the accelerator enrichment pump on the side of the carb. In this regard you can't delete the fuel return line. It is the only outlet for excess fuel to bypass the accelerator pump. Take a look at this post - especially the first image as it has the fuel recirculation cannister you will need to make your mechanical fuel pump delete operate properly (the can with the hoses and coloured tape on it).
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post60915
If you try to run a single fuel delivery to the carb, you'll lose the accelerator pump and it will end with a bad flat spot from closed throttle.
Last edited by geezer101; 06-24-2018 at 04:18 AM.
If you have gone ahead with the Weber install, then there's no problem. Some Webers have a return line but most 32/36-38/38 don't. Simple set up - one line in to the fuel bowl. In this situation block the return off, but leave the vapour line open or you will more than likely run into a fuel tank vapour lock issue.
So I'm finally back at it. had some timing issues, and then a lengthy wait on some parts, and to many honeydo's . I have done the weber install and blocked off the return line, and did nothing to the vapour return line. Is that the line that goes to the front of the valve cover lid?
Should be trying a start today Hopefully there will be no need for the fire dept.
Also did a Herculiner paint job on the inside of the box and bottom two sections of the rear fenders, have to do the bottom of the front doors and front fenders to match. Turned out well nice stuff to work with.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/HERCULINER-Bed-Liner-Black-Kit/4222493
Do I need to change the two drivers side fittings on the carb so the front one gets attached to the vacuum line off the distributor, and block off the rear hole with the old front fitting? Or what do I do with the vacuum advance off the distributor? Thanks.
Ok no spark at plugs, have spark at main coil wire to distributor with coil wire to dist grounded to engine and cranking. I guess I need to figure out if it’s enough juice. Otherwise suggestions, I’ve tried two different coils and two different distributors that were working before the engine overhaul.
edit tried a new rotor and distributor cap today still no spark to plugs. Looks like I need a pro.
Last edited by rranger; 07-15-2018 at 07:27 PM.
Resolved
So...don't leave us hanging - what was the cause of the no spark issue?
Would you believe the electric choke wire hooked to the coil. Took it off, end of problem just have to wire the carb to some of the pollution crap I’m going to take out, unless you have a better suggestion.
should be a wire from the old carb that is switched +12v - that is what I used on Geronimo...
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
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