I have a new head coming from allied http://www.alliedmotorparts.com/cata.../?q=ALL-20265N. I also have stainless steel valves and schnider heavy duty spring set coming from E.M.S . I plan to put them in the new head. Is this possible for my 88 or am I setting myself up for disaster. And if I am what can I do to make that set up work if possible. I'm am not planning on sending the old head in for core I will try to save to old valve train just in case.
Swapping springs and valves won't be a problem at all, but a cautionary tale must be told here. You can't go wrong with good quality valves. Don't ever just bolt a new head on out of the box without going over it thoroughly. Check the valve seats - make sure they pass a leakdown test, are all the valve collets and stem seals installed correctly etc. Is the machining solid (valve seats cut properly and matched with the valves). Really give it a good clean (you don't want any milling debris or worse - casting slag suddenly appearing and destroying the engine on first start up). I am apprehensive about using HD valve springs. Can't use them on hydraulic heads (not related to your install) but I tend to think they are rough on a stock valvetrain. The rockers get loaded up on their shafts and it will cause premature uneven wear eventually on both the shafts and inside of the rocker bushing/faces. Also I'd be concerned about the rocker arms showing signs of metal fatigue (we've all seen one or 2 break - it's rare but it does happen). I know the all mech G63B heads aren't super awesome for valvetrain lubrication but not sure what the 4G54 heads are like for getting oil through them.
They are the standard size valves. Lord knows I wanted too but, i think the old lady woulda killed me for spending the money for that upgrade lol.
are the SS valves standard size or 1 mm oversize - if they are oversized the seats need to be matched to the valves.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
What else should I consider in getting or upgrading to help the extra wear from the hd springs? This is kinda the point where I get confused about upgrades for the head like what can be used for what head and for what motors. Looks like it will be here tomorrow tho. I'm gonna break it down and check it over. Maybe see about some mild porting. Not sure yet. Wanna see it in front of me so I can get a easier understanding of what the threads are saying about port and polishing. I'm looking for some extra gains but still have decent mpg. Once I get it tho I can upload some pics of you want.
did you get the spring seat washers to go with the springs? they are a must for HD springs.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
I did not. I will have to order a set of them as well. The ones on e.m.s. website between the valve retainer and exhaust rocket shaft?
Porting and polishing by itself won't make gains in regards to numbers. But it will affect idle and how it responds on throttle by making it more efficient. If you have time and some simple power tools, anyone can improve their cylinder head (uber buck air grinders and carbide tips are optional but not necessary) It's all logic - take out sharp edges, get the walls of the ports smooth and as close to the same form as each other as you can. I went a bit crazy on my G63B head but it wasn't costing me anything (the head was in appalling shape from factory + some bad repairs in the past)
dunno how "heavy duty" schnieder springs r. Although common use with starions, the veterans rate em as 'weak'
...but boost on the back side of the intake valve definitely changes the picture, so may be ok non turbo
performance cam priced reasonable, but finding a good cam that actually increases performance proven to be voodoo
Aftr a couple shitty cams, an Isky cam in my old corolla, performance difference was startling. So they do exist
$390 seems like a fair price for an all new mechanical non jet valve head
Hmm, you thought about beehive springs? Not as rough on valvetrain components and can handle an extra 700 rpm over a stock spring. Have a read up on them. They look like they are worthwhile. RPW cams any good? They'd better be good (they are hell pricey but they are a billet cam...)
Just to show how far off the factory casting can be. Pix are from when i had my head ported...
DSCN2352.JPG
DSCN2355.JPG
washers go under the springs in the spring pocket.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
From what I've been reading (and a few observations from other people who perform headwork) it's not optimal to use a intake gasket as a port matching guide. The trick seems to be matching it to a specific manifold and then cleaning up whatever gasket you're installing as not every intake gasket will be the same. Older heads aren't as accurately prepared as newer ones (same goes with manifolds)
Ahh, using the Gasket to match both sides is the solution...
FI Manifold2.JPG
Also i cant turn the cam by hand. Is that normal as well. i thought i remember another person mentioning that when they bought a new head but i cant remember.
20180503_182311.jpg20180503_190305.jpgits missing the rocker arm end plu and has was cut at an angle should i send it back
Wait a minute...Looking on the site it shows the plug not in on that side. Is that also normal?
The link shows the plug in the exhaust rocket arm not in the arm in that head and any of the heads they have that i can find for g54b motors. Did they mess up the vehicle fitting list? Or do I have to plug that hole and if so where can I get the plug?
It would be unlikely you'll generate enough torsional force to turn the cam by hand when the valvetrain is assembled (you're fighting against a bunch of valve springs) And bear in mind that these heads are used on both front and rear wheel drive engines. The FWD engines run a water pump off the end of the cam via a belt and pulley (thus the lack of a plug there) The end of the exhaust side rocker shaft missing a cap is a different story - get in touch with the supplier and show them a pic of it.
Back to the potting part looks like my ports are spread out more than yours Mike but from what I'm gathering it's best to match manifolds and the head to the gasket and possibly if I got bigger than the gasket to match the gasket? Anyone wouldn't happen to have pics like Mike's but with the style of head I have would they? Just to give me a little idea. I have done a little bit of research on the beehive springs as well. I see so many pros from them. What are the cons? Should someone be cautious about shimming a valve spring? They are a smaller spring with less metal and can still handle high rpms, but how durable are they?
Well I should looked before I posted. Feel a little dumb because my head on the truck is open on the end of the exhaust rocker shaft. But that cam hole has a shaft or something in it I'm uploading a pic in a minute
LSRMikes' cylinder head is for a paired port G63B sohc engine. What I did to my head was bolt the manifold to the bare head and feel inside the ports where the head mates to the manifold and take out any ledges that you can feel to smooth out the transition between the 2. I sort of cheated by going into the head ports with a flap sander drum on a drill to taper them (an attempt to improve air velocity into the head without killing torque - remember Mike's head is on a big forced induction engine so he can get away with cavernous ports). A bit of a guide to DIY head porting (really needs a bunch more photos and I have put some up but you think I can find them?) -
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...hlight=porting
omg.....im sorry about this guys but i just looked at the gasket set and low and behold theres the plug. I was so scared the head wouldnt be the right one that i paniced before i just looked at everything i have. seriously sorry about that. i will read that thread you posted geezer just at glance i can tell what i said was wrong. i was gonna take it apart today but my little my little panic attack stopped me. ill get a better understanding before i attempt porting. btw pennyman i did call e.m.s. and they said that the stock washers should fit. once i get it apart i will see if they will fit .
Yeah the rubber on that end seal is a real mess. If anything bigger than replacing a gasket or 2 or a water pump etc seems daunting, don't worry. It takes time to gain confidence with trying more complicated jobs and the internet can be a huge lifeline if you know what to look for. But diving in is usually the best way to get to know your engine. The last thing you or anyone else wants to do is hand over a reasonable chunk of cash only to destroy it from either not realising something is wrong with whatever you've bought before you've even started bolting it up, or inadvertently killing an engine from a bad goof.
You took pics and asked questions - foresight and wisdom on your part
Yeah, a couple of the fast 2.6 starions run behives, great results. Perf springs, down under also has good stuffHmm, you thought about beehive springs? Not as rough on valvetrain components and can handle an extra 700 rpm over a stock spring. Have a read up on them. They look like they are worthwhile.
One starquestor posted his drama dealing with RPW, not supplying the profile agreed on. @ $950(WTF?!) I'd b pizd off tooRPW cams any good? They'd better be good (they are hell pricey but they are a billet cam...)
Another us clubmember got a 'street' cam recommended by austrailian 2.6 drag racer, same time he got his MPI magna
His car was an extrordinary performer. 60-1 @ only 13psi ET 12.4sec. Set rev limit 6500. Easily fried the tires first 3 gears
He said the motor was considerably louder after cam swap. Somebody ground that cam RIGHT!
Took his buddy (who owned a 10sec mustang) for a demo ride. When he got on it, car went stupid, pull was insane.
His buddy said his 10sec stang pulled nothing like it. Found out later, wastegate hose poped off, datalog showed 30psi
on pump gas = blown head gasket.
2.6 proven incredible potential. Must dig deep for that special cam (degreed to check specs), since no R&D nowadays
One of the quicker 2.6s runs a new non-jet head, zero porting. Auto trans; 9.5sec ET
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