My over cooling issue was easy to fix. 20181021_202204.jpg
My over cooling issue was easy to fix. 20181021_202204.jpg
new vacuum advance units are only 20 or 30 bucks, and are easy to change out. Looks like a fail safe thermostat. Must have gotten warm enough to jam it open.
I'm remembering back now, didn't you replace the entire distributor? Doesn't mean it's working properly tho.
I'm gonna try and get into the distributor and determine if its sticking first and trying tweaking the timing.
It's been running pretty good the last couple days "knock on wood" if I just drive it and not baby the throttle it does ok. It only leans out at a constant speed.
Went up to a 145 main jet on the primary and a 150 on the secondary and it ran better not too bad lean and maintained speed better.
And went back down to a 60 primary idle jet.
So far so good it runs much better. I'm hoping one I get the timing dialed in I'll be done with getting it to run better and I can go back modifying things on it. It still wants to diesel when I shut it off. Once I get that cleared up I'm gonna work on building some bumpers front and rear.
big beefy winch mount bumpers? I like where you're taking this truck
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to keep the spacer/adapter plates for a weber from getting loose I have developed a vacuum leak either between the bottom or middle or hell the bottom of the carb. But its making a good squealing sound and the starting fluid test makes it rev right up.
Any i made my own gaskets out of supposedly fuel resistant gasket material. They look saturated.
Try using stainless steel studs/bolts. They have a sharper thread cut. Probably need a little loctite on the threads too.
I used loctite. I made my gaskets for the carb spacer out of, the cardboard box that my intake manifold gasket came in... I was commuting 200 miles a day while in the process of moving and developed a vacuum leak on the adapter. The only card stock I had was that box, and it had a shiny printed surface on one side. It's been in there over 50k miles now. A healthy dose of permatex indian head gasket shellac on the gasket and mating surface, and some loctite on the fasteners worked for me. I took my adapter off and discovered that over torquing the fasteners had warped the adapter plate. I sanded it on a flat surface plate while I had it apart. Tractor supply usually has a cellulose paper gasket material in a roll in the tractor parts area. Cellulose paper is what you want. The rubberized fuel safe gasket material I haven't had good luck with.
Just a little update. Did u guys know that if u don't scrape the old gasket off the bottom of the carb u will get a vacuum leak in that exact spot. ** sarcasm** So yeah found my vacuum leak so now I'm back up and running with out an awesome reed valve sound.
You'll probably be playing with the jet sizing again. I'm curious if it pulls harder on the highway now?
Took it to the farm and it did good still need to lean it back out on idle. But other than that its probably running good enough for me. The 4x4 works really good.
Found a bumper that I'm gonna try and transplant on the MM.
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Woah that is a serious piece of metal. Anyone stupid enough to brake check you with that thing bolted up is in for a bad day.
I can't wait to get it on. I'm gonna add a stinger and shackle mounts to it.
Nice, skid plate too?
Nice bumper for sure. Nothing like showing that one in a rear view mirror. lol
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too bad that hangs down so low - negates the lift on the truck...
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Well I'm gonna have to build some brackets to make it fit the frame rails. It's about 5 inches wider than an s-10.
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