As long as they aren't eating the native birds I try attract and pissing in my garage I'm fine. Don't need any more strays around here
As long as they aren't eating the native birds I try attract and pissing in my garage I'm fine. Don't need any more strays around here
I vaguely remember reading that feral cats were a big problem in New Zealand. Really upsetting the eco system. Little fur missile hunters. Am I remembering correctly?
Yeah. Horrible things, probably the worst invasive species.
Today I dug out some Morrie parts. Have a 1098cc engine bottom end that was once in my red minor. A few months ago I bought 3 heads, all of them had worn out rocker shafts. I ordered a new shaft and it arrived just before our lockdown. So I took a break from some mitsi welding and thought I'd dig through my pile and get enough bits to slap it back together so I can sell it off to fund the other engine, and free up some storage space.
Cleaned it all up. It's got the original pistons in it. I have a stack of records for work done to it, dunno if I would go back to that mechanic though, all the seals have clear silicone on them.
Anyways. I looked it over and couldn't see any reason it wouldn't go back together and run. Would probably benefit from a rering. If it breathes to much I might do that before selling, top end gasket sets are dirt cheap.
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I cleaned everything up and thought hey I have an old tin of some kind of olive green. That's what it was sold to me as and the sploge of paint on the lid was kind of light but dull and green. Close enough to an old Morris engine.
Huh, it didn't mix up right, it kept leaving streaks, must just be too old, oh well it's a junk old engine, spray it on
Hahahaha
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It's way brighter than the sploge on the lid. And the wierd mixing? It's got gold metallic through it. Well at this point I figured I'd go all in and clear coat it
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Looks like a display engine. That metallic flipped green is out of control! It actually looks half decent. Metallic is a PITA to spray but it can only be worse if you didn't know it was metallic in the first place...
tortron, nice vid your country looks peaceful and quiet all pretty green...
Absolutely gutted. The rockershaft is for something else, possibly a b series. It's about 3 inches too long and also too large in diameter. This really put a damper on progress. I would have got it going today otherwise.
Went though my parts bins and picked out all theissing nuts and bolts and nuts and pieces
Fished up a spare starter that I put new brushes in years ago and never got working right. Will play with that in the morning and sort it out, a dodgy connection I think. Can Rob the generator from my 1300 as I'm putting an alternator on that. Then it's just missing a distributor cap, rotor, plugs and leads. Will retap the water pump bypass to the head in 3/8bsp as it's normally a unified special thread and not easy to get a tap and die in. Can buy a new fitting, but for a couple of dollars I can put a decent brass one on (or easily block it off as most people recommend).
Missing a disc in the oil filter unit, I wonder if it was run like that for a while, plenty of sludge in the tappet gallery, without the disk the oil bypasses the filter.
Then some seals for the rocker.cover bolts and the tappet cover bolts.
I think I will have less than $100 in it so hopefully I can get a little bit back for parts for my 1300
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Put the valves in and lapped them
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Dug out some parts from my stash and put them on, painted the remaining other bits gloss grey for some contrast. Starter and generator were already silver and black.
Then cleared this side of the garage out and slid the engine away till I get the missing shaft.
Start back in the L200 tomorrow
Noticed my pillion peg/muffler has fallen off
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Could weld it on in about 5mins but I wanna see what Suzuki wants to do under warranty. It's not even a year old and the welds are falling off? Not good
Bummer, where is the broken part?
The boss that the pillion peg and muffler bolts through has broken away from the small frame triangle
That's not good. I know that they break frame mounts for the engines on MX bikes but that peg and exhaust mount are hardly under any real stress. The fact that the pillion peg rubber has literally zero signs of wear on it would indicate this hasn't failed from abuse.
Yeah. I used to do jumps on my Japanese built gn250 and had no issues with it. This is just trash quality. My wife has sat on it a couple times, she's pretty tiny. I don't even think the muffler would vibrate to fatigue it. It just... Fell off...
Appalling for the cheapest new bike on the NZ market! Haha. Got in touch with the dealer tonight so hopefully hear back next week. warranty still has 2 months on it, but CGA would cover this regardless.
Just curious if they will just weld it back on and ignore that the other welds are potentially like this, of if it means a new bike/frame
Problem with welding bike frames is it makes them even more brittle. It would probably need to be TIG'd. I don't ever remember having a bike frame fail/warranty when I was assembling them for a dealership. It's rare. If it was a bad Chinese knock off I'd expect there to be all kinds of build quality issues, but there are obscure forums out there that help guys debug them and make them into half reliable machines...
GN isn't going to have heat treated steel, mig weld to your heart's content. I made note of the quality of welds on the day I bought it, pretty spattery. GNs are made in china now
^really? Suzuki needs a smack over the knuckles. I know the GN is a dinosaur but this is still a road registered bike (and a new one too) I'd weld the b@stard myself at that rateAnd China does know how to weld. Did Suzuki farm the frame assembly out to the guys that made K-Marts' kids bikes...
Haha we made the joke about those "not for off-road use" mountain bikes too when I noticed this
I'll see what Suzuki wants to do under warranty
Get them to fix it under warranty MIG 'n accept only an original joint design & weld... Later, you could add your own gusset use MIG
Oxy-Acetylene is still widely used for chromoly tubing frames in aviation and motorsports. I doubt this is chromoly, but The extra heat put into the tubing by torch welding allows it to cool more slowly and anneal the weld. you can also use dead soft filler rods. Lots of weld failures in high vibration environments occur because the weld has 2-3 times the tensile strength of the base metal. This creates a stress riser where the edge of the weld meets the base metal (typically where you see failure)
GiovanniOriginally Posted by Giovanni89
For welding -- Our USNavy required us to know the base metal material & then choose the specific filler metal + they often used documents called "Welding Procedures" that called out the filler metal, weld type & joint types... The tensile strength of the filler wire/welding rod was often similar to the base metal OR a little higher psi (never lower that I recall)...
For brazing -- Oxy-Fuel torch braze welding a socket type joint makes a stronger joint; not sure how it might soften the bike frame... This is often called silver brazing, it's 800F so it's a weld... Try breaking these socket joints; almost cannot, must destroy the item to do so... This is because the area bonded is much larger than external weld joints... Silver brazed socket joints are difficult to perform with good bond (80%+) because unlike regular weld joints, you cannot see the weld metal flowing and bonding inside the socket...
Stay Safe
My touring bike is all hand brazed. It's done a lot of hard miles. I did some work on it the last few days
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I have some pretty nice stainless steel racks on it, 30 year guarantee outta Germany. But the stays are aluminium and I snapped one of the eyelets, it hot bent around a bit in my travels. I don't like the one size fits all set up, so I made my own
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Stainless steel capillary tube and flat stock. Part of making new ones was that I switched my brake set up to V brakes and I now use two sets of brake levers on the bars, so I have to use a ratio corrector at the brake end.
The kink is to clear that
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Came out very nice. I used sil flow 55% silver brazing rod
Got a few other small jobs on it, a few repairs on old parts. Replacing stripped out threads in the derailleur, I stripped them out in the Atacama desert and Rand a nut and bolt through it, which means it has to be set in the perfect position otherwise you don't get all the gears, and I stripped that bolt last week haha. New shift levers to some that have a built in tag to adjust the, current ones I have to stop and find a coil every 600km. Fixed my bell mount. It was peened over on a spacer, that got torn out on a plane and re peened and then return out on the flight home.... I remade that with some titanium tube and bolt.
Did some more work to the wife's bike too. Lower granny gear on the crank, have a good sealed bearing bottom bracket to swap out the cartridge style one with and I have some cantilever brake posts to braze on. It was 27" now running 700c tyres and so I'm using some long reach rim brakes from the late 70s on it. They work, but don't look good. And my old canti set up will be much better
My frame is a 79 shogun 500. It was built from factory as a touring bike. It had some ok bits on it, but I sold most of that off and fully rebuilt it. The frame, cranks and seat post are original. I build my own wheels for them. Mine has tens of thousands of kilometres on it now, u have rebuilt it a couple of times to
YOU SUCK. Now I HAVE to learn how to solder and weld in house. I bought myself a portable MAPP/Oxy kit from a wholesaler for the princely sum of $79 AUD. First test is copper for me. I am going to plumb rain water into my laundry and toilet and I don't want to use poly pipe other than from the pump. I would like (well, love...) an oxy/acetylene rig but they are too expensive for me to justify using once every 3 years.
You have mad skills tortron - enough to inspire me to have a go
That's just with mapp gas and a "turbo" torch. The oxy kit you have will be nicer to use I think. I would prefer a finer tip. Oxy acetylene is pretty out of reach of the home gamer here now.
You can use normal plumbers "lead" for the copper, I did a bunch of that a few years ago with just one of those little pen butane soldering torches
They changed the rules (well, not the rules but gave CIG/BOC gases the finger) that you no longer had to lease the bottles from the monopoly holders and could just go and get bottles refilled that you can own. I liked oxy/acetylene at high school. Arc is rubbish and MIG is good if you can afford argon gas. TIG is at another level (haven't ever tried it and probably never will either)
TIG is easy. The hardest part is learning to start an arc w/o sticking the T or breaking the tip off. Once you get that it is actually nearly the same as oxy/acetylene in that you are working a puddle and dipping a rod in it. If you learn to rock the cup its even easier than using an oxy torch
Pay attention to estate sales. I got a plumbers oxy acetylene kit with carrying rig (two small bottles you can carry in one hand with the hose wrapped up on it) for pretty cheap. I forget the price now its been 15 years.
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