not sure what im messing up, sometimes the images emebed, sometimes they link
anyways lets try those 4 again
Honestly it kept me awake last night trying to figure out how to make the rear end look less bad.
i was looking for universal plastic rear fenders, and cheap ones off wrecked bikes i could go and measure up.
then i realised, ehh i already have a partly chopped up one, no loss in chopping it up more.
After sitting on a crate and looking at it while drinking my coffee, and looking up other bikes. i came to the realisation that the fender just looks wrong. Its for a much wider tyre. So i measured my front fender (both wheels and tyres are now the same size) and it came out at 100mm wide. I think it looks pretty decent. So i measured the rear fender - 160mm wide.
no bueno
I figure a rear fender should be a little bigger than a front one, to give the bike some form of directional presence. So i decided to lop off 35mm from the middle of it (just happens to be 2 strips of masking tape). This gives 125mm width, and will be good if i want to go up a tyre width in the future.
Honestly much better. Now the light isnt lost in the wide expanse
Will weld it up today and figure out a underseat shield, as i already cut some out of this one to make an under seat storage area which was ok for a mk1 but needs more work, might make something out of the spare plastic engine shield i have left over from it
Cool, this thing will go off the clock now. Very fun haha.
Going to change the rear sprocket to a gn250 one (not that sprockets are hard to get, but it just happens to be cheap). So that will take it from 14-43 to 14-41.
Would be good for a bit extra top speed, but mainly it will drop the bikes revs nicely to where it's on cam at 100kph. Should sit there comfortably now, will see how the lower speed stuff goes but I don't think it will bother the acceleration much. 1st gear is very low
Nope IMG_20201126_182441.jpg IMG_20201126_182459.jpg IMG_20201126_184900.jpg
150km into it and the engine locked up solid at 90kph. Kept it upright and loaded it on a truck back home. No loss of power or funny noises so I didn't have much idea of what might have happened, I thought maybe cam sprocket bolt had come out or something.
Nope it's dropped a valve. A bit strange to do after 400km of riding on current set up. I was really taking it easy today, just cruising at 80-90, so it didn't happen through bounce.
I have gotten the engine good and warm and done high rpm shifting and had no issue.
Might be that the big cam and 150cc piston don't work together (but again why not happen when I was thrashing it) I never measured clearance tbh, but I did put a second base gasket in to help with piston combustion. Maybe the timing chain slipped a tooth or the valve got hung up in the guide
Oh dude, that ain't good. Pretty disappointing after the number of times you've had this engine apart too. Hopefully it only took the valve out and didn't damage the guide or anything else.
guides are like $2 a piece, so i will probably change them anyways, the exhaust valve got a little bent and was a bit tight coming out. THey would most lilkely ream out perfectly
maybe me shaping the leading edge of them had something to do with it? seems a little odd tho as it was the intake that did it not the exhaust, so i dont think it was heat related.
Im going to see if i can find a decently priced open combustion chamber head before i put it back together. maybe now is the time to stroke the crank 5mm and bore the cylinder way out. Oddly enough there will be more clearance with the big piston rather than the one in the 150 kit.
valve springs should have been fine with the cam, dr125 guys remove the inner spring and have no issues with bounce.
i think probably a valve stuck in the guide (valve piston clearance wise i would have thought all the getting the engine hot on twisty uphill roads and then doing 10000rpm speed run shifts on the way home would have caused this, not just cruising a long for a couple hours like i was)
if i stick with the 150 kit this time i will double check the clearance and might alter the valve cutouts, but i dont think that was the cause this time
Id be more bummed out if it damaged the bottom end, but piston and bore look ok, i didnt check the crank (sudden stop isnt ideal for bearings) but it felt ok the small amount i handled it.
Actually looking at the picture of the piston, it looks like they might have kissed in the bottom of the cutouts, should go double check the marks in the carbon, i didnt notice that last night. The valves on my desk now, dont show any signs of hitting anything other than being bent
I have a few of the 150cc kit pistons as they are so cheap i order a few at a time and never had much luck with them lasting
The last one i took out had good valve to piston clearance
The one i put in last was machined slightly taller than that one, enough to kiss the valves apparently
i gotta say im over these pistons. I can either flycut the one in there to increase clearance in the valve cut outs
or the much better idea - bore it out to 165cc because the piston top is a much better fit to this head.
and if i stroke the crank and use a quad conrod i can get it to 185cc
(if i search harder for a conrod you can stroke this crank by 9mm which would be 195cc. you can bore the cylinder out more than that as well, so if you really wanted you could get a 71mm piston and stroke it 9mm and get a 230cc monster for way more effort than just putting in a dr200 engine)
https://youtu.be/-M19PQ79LzA
set the carb float so now it doesnt overflow. starts good, have only ridden it in the back yard but feels ok at idle and low rpm (its a pumper flatslide tm33 from what i can figure)
wants the cables adjusted id say
Done a bunch of stuff, basically finished now
Took the farm DF200 chain guard and cut it down to be like a road DR200se guard, was missing the tip but i cut it square and it looks ok
Rebuilt the DF200 swing arm and swapped it into the 85. Bearings were real crusty, needed every oz of my 20ton press. rebuilt with needle bearing allballs kit. Did this because the swing arm in there had its chain guard mounts cut off. It had all new bearings and seals so was an easy swap out. Now my 87 im building from spare parts has a fresh swing arm too.
Bar guards and shields installed
All ready for inspection and reregistration. Should be easy because it was first registered in nz before 1991 so no brake declaration needed (not that its anything difficult you can do it yourself) I just have to go to a J.P and get them to sign a form stating that i am claiming to be the legal owner of the bike. Then go book in the inspection and pay about $400 (inspection is about $80 but you also pay for a warrent of fitness and 6 months licence)
Got this new old stock tail bag locally. Very chuffed
I was doing some work on that diesel mitsubishi, with the payment being whatever the cost to get this inspected (id have done it for free but some people get offended at that, he was quoted 2.5k for the work, this is closer to 1/10th that) So thats done, i have the paperwork ready, and now im just waiting for our city covid lockdown level to drop hopefully this weekend so i can book in a time.
Then i can ride for 6 months, if i like the bike i might clean it up a bit more and have some decals made up
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by tortron
Bookmarks