We got them over here too. If you are real keen it wouldn't be "that" expensive to roll a Ute into a container and send to the USA (a few thousand nzd)
We got them over here too. If you are real keen it wouldn't be "that" expensive to roll a Ute into a container and send to the USA (a few thousand nzd)
Ruger 10/22 Takedown with Magpull Backpacker stock a Nikon scope and a few other little bits. I like good cheap functional firearms that can go anywhere and fit under the back seat.Originally Posted by xboxrox
gee Dr.G
So, mind telling us a little about that rifle..?
Back door glass was broken but the tint is holding it together. Looked pretty sun beaten and the seats are out of something else but if I get desperate for a part I know where it's at.The Monty looks right at home - well, yours does. As for the one sitting in that yard it looks like it could do with it's own resurrection. It appears to be complete and none of the glass has been broken. Good to see you didn't take any shortcuts when you had it all apart.
I've seen a guy that did something like what you're talking about but it was turned into a flat bed truck. Very cool. I'm the opposite cause I'd like to find a super clean regular cab Might Max
COOL Rifle https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0ZjwyZ48A0 @ 6:00 min he starts shooting (Yours is tricked out nice Dr.G)
There is a Chuck Norris movie you might like: "Invasion USA" No Montero but half way through the movie there is a brand new 1985 Nissan Pickup that steals the show...
Hickok45 is the man. I've watched many of his videos. This one is of my actual rifle before add-ons https://youtu.be/tVnxf73KKks . I did have the original 10/22 back when I was a little guy. Just like the one in the link you shared. Great little rifle.COOL Rifle https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E0ZjwyZ48A0 @ 6:00 min he starts shooting (Yours is tricked out nice Dr.G)
There is a Chuck Norris movie you might like: "Invasion USA" No Montero but half way through the movie there is a brand new 1985 Nissan Pickup that steals the show...
U wana trade once I'm done restoring my max???
I'm driving to California come end of fall, I'll even deliver it right to ur door...
After just checking out your build I'm surprised you'd trade! But no I'll keep my Montero.
Happy New Year! So far mine sucks... Days before Christmas my Montero developed a misfire and started consuming coolant. Yup it's a cracked cylinder head. Just got the time tonight to pull the head and its confirmed. Suggestions? I've found a new bare head on rockauto and I know a machine shop that might be able to fit ( still waiting on a text back ). Other than that I'll be looking here for help. I'm open to modifications like head without the weird little jet valves.
crackheadvlv.jpgcrackhead.jpg
Definitely get a non-jet valve head. They’re not as likely to crack if over heated and no more expensive than the 3-valve head plus a jet valve delete kit.
Would you go with this? newhead.jpg Will my hydraulic lifter work on with this head?
That head will work and the cost is reasonable although be sure to factor in shipping costs. Since it’s a bare head you will need to use the cam and valve train (rockers, lifters, rails, valves, etc.) from your old head, but don’t use the old cam towers. Use the new ones that come with the bare head. Also not a bad idea to get at least new exhaust valves. If you don’t have the tools to set up the new head, check with a machine shop. It’s a very straight forward procedure to move the valve train to the new head.
Another option is to get a new head that includes a cam and valve train. May cost 100-150 more, but that extra might be what you pay a machine shop to set up the bare head.
Whichever way you go, be sure to get a good quality head gasket and new head bolts. Do not use the old bolts. If you can afford the extra cost, get ARP head studs. They’re bullet proof and reusable.
Last edited by FMS88; 01-09-2020 at 11:10 PM.
Awesome thanks for the input. I've already got a head gasket set and head bolts. I also have all the tools to setup the new head. Shipped and tax I'm looking at $282 which like you said isn't bad. I like your idea of new exhaust valves. May main concern was that all the non jet heads I found had manual lash adjusters and I wasn't sure if that would work with my hydraulic lifters.
The valve stem lengths differ for the two head types so that’s why the two rocker assemblies aren’t interchangeable. Also, if you’re contemplating reusing the intake valves, carefully inspect the seating surface, the stem and rocker head for wear. If you have any doubt, replace them too. Otherwise it looks like you’re set. Have fun.
Complete set of valves ordered. Of course I was hoping to reuse them but the intakes have a significant amount of wear on the seating surface.
IMG_20200110_145216.jpg
Yikes! That valve is incredibly worn. The main seating surface is so dished, I'm not sure there's enough there for a machine shop to re-cut the seating surfaces if you tried to go that route. The stem is showing its age, too. Replacement was definitely the smart move.
i would return that head, the previous owner to my 87 d50 put a non jet valve head on it and it runs like crap. they lowered the compression from 9.2 to 8.8 and that along with the removal of the third valve and that crappy carb will make it run horrible. I even stuck my 38 38 on the 87 (restoring engine out 82 to put in 87) and it did almost nothing.
the jet valve actually helped with performance while reducing emissions. that's why a 87 is so much faster than a 82, even with its increased weight.
I switched to a non-jet valve head 10yrs and 30k miles ago and have no complaints. There's been no loss of performance or decrease in mileage and that's with the Mikuni carb. Compression improved from 165-175 to 180 all around. Emissions increased slightly, but they were still well below the legal limits.
There may be quality differences between heads of different manufacture (I recall those cast in India were crap), but as a rule, the switch shouldn't diminish performance. Take a look at Engine Machine Service, Inc. in Niles Ohio. They've been catering to the starion/conquest crowd for years and they sell only non-jet valve heads.
Currently I'm committed to trying this ITM head. Likely going to slap it on Thursday. If I have time I'll measure the combustion chambers and compare volume to find out if compression ratio will change. I'll report my results.
ITM has been distributing engine parts for several decades, plus most reviews I could find were quite positive. It'll probably be fine, but it's still good to closely inspect it just to be sure. If you're satisfied with it, blow out all the passages and the tapped holes before you start installing the new parts and the parts from your old head. On my new, bare head, I found a lot of filings at the bottom of the cam tower bolt holes.
Have fun.
Head and valves came in so I took some time between jobs to lap in the valves and assemble the head. I did do a non-scientific measuring of the combustion chamber and my conclusion is that the old head has slightly more volume. So maybe I'll get the slightest bump up in compression ratio. IMG_20200114_173849.jpgIMG_20200114_174001.jpg
I'm shooting to have it back together by Friday.
Beautiful
i love how straightforward these engines are. I personally prefer the 12V head with a 87 because of the new emissions stuff they had on it, but my 87 d50 2.6 only had a egr valve and a mini cat with a reverse flow muffler, the 82 2.6 had a ginormous cat in the header, egr valve, small resonator, big resonator, and a tractor muffler. the 82 had 1 3/4 pipe the 87 has 2" pipe (i am going 2 1/4" cat/egr/res delete and a cherry bomb vortex muffler)
there is no emissions laws or even vehicle inspections in the state of South Carolina, lol. its kind of a bad thing because we have a bunch of steryotypical 60 year old black ladies in pontiac sedans with a bouncy rear tire because the suspension is just crap.
I wanna say LOLGood Gossip
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