Take a look at some auto parts stores or harbor freight they have grommets. You may be able to make one work.
Take a look at some auto parts stores or harbor freight they have grommets. You may be able to make one work.
I found one in the UK, but in total it'll cost less than $40 shipped. In the meantime I'm building a new "harness" to try and figure out if the brand new ICM has already gone bad.
Is there any decent quality ICM that can be found relatively cheap? I would go with an OEM module, but they seem to like committing seppuku every time something else goes wrong and $150+ is a bit much to spend every time that happens...
The Ignition Control Module and Distributor Pickup Coil look similar, same part number so. Is this the thing you are dealing with? Note the prices.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...96286,ignition
Yes, I have bought both the Ultra-Power brand (and had to warranty it three times), and the Standard Motor Products/Intermotor brand (had to warranty it as well).
I'm just wondering if anyone has tried using one of the cheaper ICMs from Amazon or Ebay, if they had any luck with it, and which brand/seller they tried.
Found these two Mitsubishi brand https://www.ebay.com/c/1415035879
https://www.amazon.com/Mitsubishi-MD...productDetails
I expect that part number might help you.
You shouldn't be burning through ICM's like that. I'm gonna sit and ponder on this one, but something is up. Is it hooked up to the 12v side of the ballast resistor? If you're on the lower voltage side, you will draw more current, and that could be burning them up.
I think it was a combination of the dead MSD coil, multiple issues with the wires connecting the ICM to the coil, and the fact that I probably should have been using thermal paste from the beginning...
The ICM is getting +12v, or at least should have been. Both of the wires going to the ICM measured at over 1.5 ohms of resistance, which what ONE THOUSAND FEET of 12 AWG copper wire should measure at. On top of all the cracked insulation, the brass connectors being so fatigued that they just snapped in half, and the rubber grommet that is so old and hardened that it's crumbling and falling apart...
I finally got the flag terminal connectors and finished making the new wires. They will work for right now, but I'm not going to glob silicone all over the distributor housing in an attempt to make a new grommet to keep water out. I did manage to find this:
https://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/ge...wire-dist-4g5/
The price is pretty reasonable and the shipping is relatively cheap, even though it might be a few weeks before it shows up. I'm generally willing to trust a website that isn't blocked at work, unlike certain other websites that sell hard-to-find Mitsubishi parts.
I went ahead and warrantied the ICM through RockAuto, should be on it's way soon. I also went ahead and ordered one of these:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Co...9/164169903866
It might end up being a dud, but I won't be that upset if it doesn't work.
As for using thermal paste under the ICM, I feel really dumb that it never crossed my mind...
Quick update:
I got the new ICM(s), used thermal compound to mount it, and it seems to work just fine with the new coil and wires.
The website I tried ordering the distributor wired from refunded me, they didn't actually have them. Just my luck.
I tried going on a test drive, didn't get very far before I stalled out and couldn't get the truck started again. I noticed it started weeping from the water pump, decided to try and get it back home. I managed to get it started by popping the clutch while going down a hill, made it about halfway before having to shut it off and pull over because the temp started to climb.
I ended up having to call a tow truck, I'm going to start investigating what actually happened once I have the time to.
Never fails to fail....
After about a month of procrastinating, I'm finally starting to dig into the truck again.
I charged the battery outside of the truck, hooked it back up and tried to start it. The starter isn't doing jack, not even when jumping the solenoid with a pair of (insulated) pliers. I'm going to have to pull the starter back apart and see what went wrong.
YAY #1.
Like I said before, the water pump is weeping, I (finally) have the new one, which came with all new bolts (that I may or may not use). I ordered a new radiator cap and thermostat with the new water pump, haven't decided yet whether I'm going to install the new thermostat, because I didn't pay close enough attention when I was ordering and now I have a brand new 160 degree thermostat.
I have been racking my brain trying to figure out why the engine had started to overheat, then I remembered that I had reset the timing after replacing the distributor wiring. I decided to look at the timing light afterwards and sure enough, the dial was at 10 degrees instead of the zero I thought it was while I was setting the timing. So the truck was at 18-20 degrees at idle instead of the 8-10 I was going for... I guess I had bumped it without realizing, and the engine wasn't too happy with that extra 10 degrees timing.
My neighbor just bought a new truck, she thought it would be funny to park next to mine... Joke's on her though, my truck doesn't care if he's smaller than everyone else. He isn't compensating for anything.
nLtiKuE.jpg
xSFvD2g.jpg
Starter melted.
50105530521_7ee22c32ea_o.jpg
50104959093_547979422a_o.jpg
50104960723_13c606a679_o.jpg
50104960258_f75fb053e2_o.jpg
I have another armature and set of brushes, but I'm gonna have to re-solder the brush holder in order to make it work.
I looked online, but none of the local parts stores have starter brushes in stock.
It seems that, for whatever reason, I am particularly rough on starters. I don't know if it's something I'm doing wrong, or I just have terrible luck.
At least I know how to fix the things I break.
...you have no manner of luck at all (Pirates of the Caribbean reference)
Well, I did manage to put together a working starter, got it back in... That to starter bolt is a total pain in the ass.
New water pump is installed, everything is back together, but I'm gonna have to wait until tomorrow to drive the truck. It's a bit too late to be annoying the neighbors.
I don't know if the A/C has been switched over to R134 yet, there is a sticker from 2012 stating that UV dye was added to the A/C system but it doesn't say anything about the type of refrigerant.
Is there a way to figure out what refrigerant is in the system without having someone do a full flush and refill?
My solution to the top bolt is removing the air cleaner and valve cover, cover with towel I have small rubber mats I put over that, lay on motor and with my left arm around the back and my right arm under the intake I can get at least 1/4 turn each time. Careful if you have a metal gasket on the head its like a razor.
I stand on the driver's side, lean over the fender and just shove my arm down next to the clutch cable and brake booster.
The stubby ratcheting wrenches help a lot.
There is too much stuff in the way on mine and my arms aren't long enough
eek! That starter let the smoke out for sure. Long periods of cranking drastically shorten the life of starters. They can't dissipate the heat fast enough. I'd spring for a new one if you can. The insulation on the windings of the armature might not be much longer for this world.
^^
Giovanni (2 n's
As to the refrigerant conversion warstriker post some pics of the systems access ports.
Humble thanks.
Last edited by claych; 07-13-2020 at 01:35 PM.
Well the upper radiator outlet is now leaking, pretty sure it's cracked right at the joint...
As for the starter armature, I swapped the burnt one out for a spare I had. Eventually I'll be able to afford a new starter...
The A/C ports still have the 30 year old discolored plastic caps, so I have a feeling it's still running R12. That's gonna be fun trying to find...
Take the radiator to a shop and they'll solder it back up - no problem. If you are going to do that, I would also consider having a temperature sender bung soldered into the bottom tank so you can add an electric thermofan (install the sender, but leave it disconnected until you are ready to tackle the fan install)
If I can find a local shop that has the capability to repair a brass radiator...
Since Maryland has such strict inspections, there's practically nothing on the road older than 2005, and probably 25%-50% of the vehicles that I see on a regular basis are electric.
Most of these so-called "shops" are basically just expensive parts changers. I think I might have found a few places, that might be old enough to know what they're doing, but I'm still gonna have to make a few phone calls.
I feel ya. It took me 5 goes before I found a radiator 'repair' shop that #1 - actually repaired radiators, and #2 - didn't have 2 guys waiting at the door so they could pin me to the floor and rifle through all of my pockets looking for every cent they could wring out of me... $400 for a replacement core (not even a whole radiator - just the core and then I'd have to pay for it to be soldered in and pressure testedOriginally Posted by WarStryker13
)
*#3 was finding a shop that was still actually in business. They appear to be on the endangered list. I got lucky with the guy I found - friendly, honest and cheap as !@#$
I finally found a guy, didn't even charge me because it's a dead service and he was just happy to have the opportunity to practice again.
20200731_180616.jpg
20200731_180619.jpg
I'm not gonna complain about a free repair, especially since he went ahead and pressure tested it to 30 psi. Hopefully tomorrow I'll actually have time to install it.
Nice find. You need to keep this guy for later reference. The thermofan sender bung would be an easy job for him. A shot o' paint at it'll be ready to go!
Shot a fresh coat of black onto the radiator, put new clamps on the heater hose connection at the back of the water pump outlet, and now the battery is charging.
It might be back on the road later today.
So either the flywheel is falling off of the crank, the pressure plate is falling off of the flywheel, the clutch is falling apart, or it has instantly developed a really nasty rod knock while not running for two weeks.
I've already got a new clutch on its way, but it won't be here for at least three weeks (thank you Summit Racing for changing the shipping date from August 2nd to August 18th the day after I order the clutch).
Yet again........................YAY.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks