New Member, couple questions

[LONDART]

New member here. Just acquired a 1985 ram 50 2.0 as a project for my stepdaughter that is about to get her license. Se wanted something that we could get running together.

Currently not running, carb has been removed and has been sitting for a bit.

Already have the weber conversion kit, actually came with it as well as a timing belt and component kit. And yes it is a real weber kit not the el cheapo.

Plan is to pull tank and replace, already have a new 1 lined up. At that time I also plan to replace the manual pump with the p4070 elec conversion.

Question, Is there anything I should or shouldn't do when doing the tank and pump? I was thinking to replace the lines from the tank to the pump as well as from the pump to the carb. What size is everybody running and what other lines do I need to mess with. From my understanding there are 3 lines on that tank...supply, return and vent. Supply is pretty straight forward, what do I do with the other 2?

[pennyman1]

Welcome to Mightyram50 - unless the lines are really rusted, there is no need to replace the fuel lines - just flush them out to remove any gunk from old gas. The return line from the carb can be capped, and make a block off plate to cover the manual pump hole on the side of the head. All the vacuum lines can be removed, except the vacuum advance for the distributor, and the big one to the brake booster. Mount the pump as close to the outlet of the tank as possible, with a filter before it to catch dirt. Be sure to plug the coolant port on the manifold with Allen set screws coated with red Loctite to avoid leaks of coolant into the intake. We also love pics - condition not important...

[LONDART]

Appreciate the replyFB_IMG_1548734705419.jpgFB_IMG_1548734701009.jpgFB_IMG_1548734693513.jpgFB_IMG_1548734727543.jpg

[geezer101]

Hi and welcome to mightyram. Engine is a G63B (timing belt is the give away on that) so you'll need to edit your user info. To get the most out of the Weber - ditch all the EGR/anti pollution crap, tidy up the head ports and match them to the intake manifold. You will need a high volume/low pressure electric fuel pump to run the Weber (buy a Carbole 42S off ebay - cheapest pump and is the identical to the Mr Gasket 42S minus the stupid price tag). I wouldn't use the Carter P4070 - it is noisy, expensive and have been known to eat themselves, resulting in a bunch of fine brass shavings being dumped into the fuel line (a few members have had them fail, me being one) Go with everything else pennyman has recommended. Use the wire from the original carb to the fuel cut solenoid as the power for the electric choke on the Weber (super easy).

[LONDART]

Weird... I'm in the auto parts business, have been for about 15 years now. The mrg42s are notorious for falling, even to the point they diminished their warranty to basically nothing. I've had a p4070 on an 83 Nissan 720 plow truck for better past of last 10 years and haven't had a problem. Lil noisy but not bad, keep fuel in it and it should last in my experience but there's always gonna be a rotten apple or 2 on a bunch.
Wasn't sure on engine designation, used the wiki and thought I picked the right 1. It's the 85 2.0

[geezer101]

Hmm, always the way. My Carter failed spectacularly and I had a filter before the pump as well to protect it from possible contaminants and debris in the tank. I think it has a lot to do with how the 42S is installed (e.g. not hanging off the side of the engine block 5 feet away from the tank in the highest place possible) but if a manufacturer gets enough complaints from customers who aren't following recommendations they will react. You got the engine code right. I prefer the G63B over the 4G54. Easier (or maybe more forgiving) to work on, and cheaper to repair in some aspects.

[xboxrox]

Way to go..! She is gonna love that truck pops; you're the man LONDART