Look up zinc chromate. This is something you can definitely DIY
Look up zinc chromate. This is something you can definitely DIY
this is what I use: https://www.caswellplating.com/yellow-chromate.html
With respects to the O/P
M.I.G. or T.I.G. welding processes/over zinc chromate ???
Cool! will definitely look into that!Originally Posted by steve1814
With respects to the O/P
M.I.G. or T.I.G. welding processes/over zinc chromate ???
I am no professional welder, but I did stay in a Holiday Inn express!
Researching my welding course book (taking class while staying in said hotel) I found this tidbit:
The low boiling temperature of the zinc of the coating causes it to volatilize in the heat produced by an arc or by an oxyacetylene flame. The zinc in the gaseous state may become entrapped in the molten weld metal as it solidifies. If this occurs there will be porosity in the weld metal and if sufficient zinc is available it will cause large voids in the surface of the deposit.
The presence of the zinc in stressed welds can cause cracking and it may also cause delayed cracking due to stress corrosion. To eliminate this, the weld joint must be designed to allow the zinc vapor to completely escape from the joint. Fixturing, backing straps, etc., should be arranged to allow for the zinc to completely escape. Other ways to avoid zinc entrapment in weld metal is to use sufficient heat input when making the weld.
It is also important to secure complete and full penetration of the joint. The ultimate precaution would be to remove the zinc from the area to be welded.
When welding on galvanized steel or any coated steel, particularly those with coatings that produce noxious fumes, positive ventilation must be provided. Positive ventilation involves the use of a suction hose at the weld area. When using the gas metal arc process or the flux-cored arc process, the suction type gun nozzles should be used. Welding on zinc or other coated steels should never be done in confined areas.
For corrosion resistance of the weld it is sometimes advisable to use a corrosion-resistant weld metal. This can be done by using a bronze deposit such as a copper-zinc alloy, or a stainless steel electrode. In any case, when arc or oxyacetylene welding is used the area adjacent to the weld will lose the protective zinc coating which must be repaired.
Hope that answers your question....
Yes it does,
Thank You for taking the time, much appreciated!
Chuggin' along
I'm at the point where I can start putting things back on the truck. I did manage to get the truck to bump over on starting fluid, but the fuel pump still needs more priming to get the fuel into the carb. My goal is to get the truck back on its tires and everything connected so I can wheel it out of the garage to play with the engine.
The lower and upper arms installed, along with the steering and sway bar. Nothing is "bolted in place" as I want to make sure everything fits before tightening to spec.
Renovated hub
Brakes rebuilt. (yes, they are "ricer red" I wanted some color poking through the wheels)
Somewhat finished test fit. I was send the wrong lower arm ball joint (they had the zerk fitting on the top instead of the side) so I am waiting for replacements.
Last edited by SubGothius; 11-06-2023 at 11:36 AM. Reason: Fixed image display
.....
Last edited by claych; 10-15-2019 at 01:36 PM.
Part #'s for the steering stop bolts & lock/jam nuts.
Last edited by claych; 10-15-2019 at 01:43 PM.
Those on my spindle are the originals, just cleaned, but:
MF431863
NUT, KNUCKLE
MB192290
BOLT, FR AXLE
MB412060
CAP, KNUCKLE STOPPER BOLT
__________________________________________________ ____________________________
This is where I stopped for the day.
Last edited by SubGothius; 11-06-2023 at 11:36 AM. Reason: Fixed image display
Thanks again !
Were any of the steering parts worn & need replacement (?) pitman arm, idler arm, tie rod ends..?
If I was Santa Clause & you didn't already have it; I would get you another 1/4 acre expansion of your property, an automotive body rotisserie, a paint booth, yada yada...
All of the steering was replaced. And thank you St. Nick-it's just a hobby among many.
You made yourself a new truck steve and it looks better than factory new
Excellent project and attention to detail. You have outdone yourself. That front end looks better than new.
If you want to take it a step further and upgrade to Stainless Steel Brake Lines let me know.
Very nice work. All the pics and telling the story are a great resource. Thank you!
would you sell this unit
Well, I figured I would start to chronicle the work on my Ram 50 4x4 to keep track of all the things I am replacing, rebuilding, modifying, and cleaning.
I bought the ram 50 back last year sometime to use just as a pick-up , I bought it for $2,000 which was a bit high, but the body had no rust and the frame very little so I figured I was ahead of the game... at least here in the northeast where you can hear your car rust away.
The Top end
Things were OK for a while, but I noticed that the exhaust was starting to leak around the manifold and I discovered that one of the exhaust studs had snapped off and the exhaust was starting to blow out the gasket. I figured I would just pull the head off and have a machine shop extract the stud since it was broke off up inside the cylinder head. I did some reading about the MCA jet's/cracked heads and figured I would just get a non-hydraulic/no jet head from Clearwater.
Once I got the new head, I dissembled the intake manifold to have it media blasted and discovered that the threads on the thermostat outlet were stripped. The the PO rigged a "fix" by inserting a bolt through the bottom of the outlet and putting a nut on the housing. while it did work, I did notice that there was a persistent leak around the bolt and I was not happy with that. I then set out to procure a new intake housing. once located and delivered, I took the replacement intake and the valve cover over to the machine shop to have them cleaned and continued the disassembly of the original head. During the disassembly I also found that the fuel pump was blowing fuel out of the weep hole and that the plastic isolator was missing. The fuel pump was mounted directly to the head with a TON of permatex acting as a gasket - another PO "fix"... So Rockauto and I were becoming fast friends.
Once having all the parts needed to get the head ready for installation I went ahead and replaced all the sensors, gaskets and EGR stuff. What I could refurbish (nuts, bolts, brackets) I did, everything else was new.
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