Replacing a Mikuni Carburetor with a Weber Carburetor

[BJH324JH]

If memory serves right on the dual vacuum advance units used for Federal High Altitude converted vehicles and California emissions trucks the top port is a secondary advance for the "high altitude compensator" that advances the timing by 5 degrees and the bottom one is the main vacuum advance that is used by the carburetor. hope this helps

I will try the lower distributor barb and hope that is the correct one. Thank you btw. If anyone knows for sure if the lower barb on the distributor should be used for the weber, please confirm.

[StarquestMan]

Ill check my service manual tomorrow but i'm 95% sure that's how its set up. Geezer has a good point about trying them both though since the high altitude advance may have less advancement than the main lower section of the unit.

[StarquestMan]

Ok i checked the FSM and it does in fact use the top port for the HAC system and the bottom for regular vacuum advance. i couldn't confirm though that the top port advances timing by a set 5 degrees like i thought though. i'm assuming that the main vacuum advance will give more adjustment range than the top section would but like geezer101 said if the Weber does provide more vacuum then you will need to account for that. in fact im curios myself on what the best solution is since i may be using a Weber myself on my Mighty Max 4x4 that has a California emissions setup?

[BJH324JH]

Ok i checked the FSM and it does in fact use the top port for the HAC system and the bottom for regular vacuum advance. i couldn't confirm though that the top port advances timing by a set 5 degrees like i thought though. i'm assuming that the main vacuum advance will give more adjustment range than the top section would but like geezer101 said if the Weber does provide more vacuum then you will need to account for that. in fact im curios myself on what the best solution is since i may be using a Weber myself on my Mighty Max 4x4 that has a California emissions setup?

Thank you very much.

[SubGothius]

I gather from other threads here, our vacuum advance should be fed from the left (slightly higher) vacuum barb on the Weber carb, the one normally blocked with a screw in the end, as the usual vac advance barb on the right gives too much vacuum too early.

[BJH324JH]

I just got the electric gas pump and was wondering how you wire this thing up? There is a wire coming out of the electirc gas pump with a label on the cord that says "to ground only", "do not wire to positive."
IMG_20190824_164307.jpg
IMG_20190824_164321.jpg
IMG_20190824_164331.jpg

Also, how do I wire the electric choke?

[85Ram50]

BJH324JH
Look at post #37 It should all be the same even though you have a different pump. It is still two wires power and ground. The part about T'ing off an existing wire will help and the electric choke on mine is wired to the coil. Same pin the wire from the distributor connects to.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...9074#post69074

[geezer101]

Ground goes to the shortest path it can on the body/chassis of the truck (requires a good, solid connection). The electric choke is simply live power with the ignition on (like the coil or distributor as 85Ram has indicated). As mentioned, it's the same wire as the fuel cut solenoid on the factory Mikuni carb just repurposed.

[claych]

.....

[claych]

What do I need to do to replace the Mikuni carburetor to a Weber carburetor? I have a 1988 Mitsubishi Mighty Max 2.6l 4x4 manual transmission pick up truck.

UPDATE: 11:48 A.M. 6/16/2019 Sunday
I purchased the Weber 32/26 DGEV K610 carburetor from Carbs Unlimited and received it a few days later. Although, the carburetor has DGAV stamped on the base instead of what I believe is supposed to be DGEV. Anyone know why that is? I took multiple pictures of what you will get when you order the Weber 32/36 DGEV K610 carburetor.

I received this box that was in another box(inception :
Attachment 22818

Overall contents of package:
Attachment 22819
Contents laid out on table:
Attachment 22820

Pictures taken of the carburetor body:
Attachment 22824Attachment 22826Attachment 22827
Attachment 22828Attachment 22829Attachment 22830
Attachment 22831Attachment 22832Attachment 22833
Attachment 22834

UPDATE: 11:18 P.M. 8/11/2019 Sunday
The following pictures are the components you will receive with the k610 conversion kit. I took a picture of each component to show a closer view.

Attachment 23103 Attachment 23104Attachment 23105Attachment 23106Attachment 23107Attachment 23108Attachment 23109Attachment 23110Attachment 23111Attachment 23112Attachment 23113Attachment 23114Attachment 23115Attachment 23116Attachment 23117Attachment 23118Attachment 23119Attachment 23120Attachment 23121Attachment 23122Attachment 23127Attachment 23123Attachment 23124Attachment 23125Attachment 23126

The first three pictures were taken before the conversion started:
Attachment 23128 Attachment 23129Attachment 23130

These next pictures, I started removing...
Attachment 23131Attachment 23132Attachment 23133Attachment 23134Attachment 23135Attachment 23136Attachment 23137Attachment 23138Attachment 23139Attachment 23140Attachment 23141Attachment 23142Attachment 23143Attachment 23144Attachment 23145Attachment 23147Attachment 23148Attachment 23149Attachment 23150Attachment 23151Attachment 23152

Carburetor removed with it's annoying vacuum hoses:
Attachment 23146

Helpful Links:
Where I ordered the Weber 32/36 DGEV K610 Carburetor:
http://www.carburetion.com/Products/ProductDetails.aspx?Part=K610

Weber 32/36 DGEV K610 Carburetor Diagram:
http://www.carburetion.com/diags/3236DGAVDiaginfo.asp

Identifying a Fake Weber Carburetor:
http://genuineweber.blogspot.com/

Redline Weber Contact Information:
http://www.redlineweber.com/contactus.html

What DGAV, DGEV, etc... means:
https://motofaction.org/mechanical-1...l-differences/

I call bullshit !!! where is the picture of the weber mounted to the intake manifold???? & running.

[BJH324JH]

BJH324JH
Look at post #37 It should all be the same even though you have a different pump. It is still two wires power and ground. The part about T'ing off an existing wire will help and the electric choke on mine is wired to the coil. Same pin the wire from the distributor connects to.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...9074#post69074

Ground goes to the shortest path it can on the body/chassis of the truck (requires a good, solid connection). The electric choke is simply live power with the ignition on (like the coil or distributor as 85Ram has indicated). As mentioned, it's the same wire as the fuel cut solenoid on the factory Mikuni carb just repurposed.

Thank you guys for the help.

[BJH324JH]

I call bullshit !!! where is the picture of the weber mounted to the intake manifold???? & running.

I'm trying to make time for the truck, it's just that life throws things my way that I have to deal with first. I have yet to install the fuel pump due to trying to keep a roof over my head. As soon as I free up time, I will get back to trying to get the truck in working order. I will also take pictures of the new Weber on the intake manifold. I am not B.S. anyone.

[geezer101]

LOL don't sweat it. Life is what happens while you're making other plans. Hell, my trucks been off the road for this long. I'm still scrounging parts for it... I either have time but no money or too busy to direct my attention to it. You're a lot closer to having your truck running than I do atm.

[BJH324JH]

LOL don't sweat it. Life is what happens while you're making other plans. Hell, my trucks been off the road for this long. I'm still scrounging parts for it... I either have time but no money or too busy to direct my attention to it. You're a lot closer to having your truck running than I do atm.

Thank you for understanding geezer101.

[85Ram50]

Got a feeling this is the one - https://www.ebay.com/itm/SUZUKI-SAMU...kAAOSwzaJX7Yjb

I see how it would mount to the carb. I do not see how the air cleaner would be attached to it. I can infer that long bolt might be meant for the center hole to hold the top down, and by that the whole housing, Is that the case?

[85Ram50]

EDIT 5-22-20 - This did not work. It bolts on fine and has a center pin but it is too high and doesn't allow the OE air box to sit on it properly plus its like 3 inches above the studs it is supposed to bolt down on the valve cover.

I ended up ordering this https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toyota-Air-Filter-Adapter-20R-for-Weber-Carburetor-32-36-DGEV-or-38-DGAS-/400796653831

[BJH324JH]

I finally have a bit of free time to work on the truck. I had some questions regarding the fuel hoses though. There is two fuel hoses as you can see in the following picture:
20190920_143127.jpg
What do I do with them? I know one connects to the carburetor, but what about the other one. Also, which fuel hose connects to the carburetor? One is skinner than the other.

[85Ram50]

None of that looks familiar to me but I know on the first gen there is a fuel return line from the OE pump. Look at the fuel system diagram in the manual it should tell you. When I added the electric pump I blocked off the hard fuel return line with a silicon cap in the engine bay where the hose from the pump connected to it.

[BJH324JH]

BJH324JH
Look at post #37 It should all be the same even though you have a different pump. It is still two wires power and ground. The part about T'ing off an existing wire will help and the electric choke on mine is wired to the coil. Same pin the wire from the distributor connects to.
http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...9074#post69074

I was wondering, will the Duralast Oil Pressure Switch PS122 work on my gen 2 Mitsubishi MM?

[BJH324JH]

Ground goes to the shortest path it can on the body/chassis of the truck (requires a good, solid connection). The electric choke is simply live power with the ignition on (like the coil or distributor as 85Ram has indicated). As mentioned, it's the same wire as the fuel cut solenoid on the factory Mikuni carb just repurposed.

Geezer101, I wonder why do you need the shortest path for ground?

[BJH324JH]

[QUOTE=geezer101;69384]Ground goes to the shortest path it can on the body/chassis of the truck (requires a good, solid connection). The electric choke is simply live power with the ignition on (like the coil or distributor as 85Ram has indicated). As mentioned, it's the same wire as the fuel cut solenoid on the factory Mikuni

Also how do you know if you grounded it properly?

[geezer101]

[QUOTE=BJH324JH;69966]

Ground goes to the shortest path it can on the body/chassis of the truck (requires a good, solid connection). The electric choke is simply live power with the ignition on (like the coil or distributor as 85Ram has indicated). As mentioned, it's the same wire as the fuel cut solenoid on the factory Mikuni

Also how do you know if you grounded it properly?

A long ground lead is unnecessary as you will (more than likely) mounting the pump to the chassis and by keeping it short you reduce the risk of it failing (running a long ground lead will create resistance = drop in current. The fuel pump might struggle to work at it's optimal capacity...) Testing it - either live (the positive 12v power from the ignition circuit on to the point where you want to ground it to and check your voltage) or with a multimeter and check resistance from a bolt or bare metal and the ground point you're planning on using.

[85Ram50]

Also how do you know if you grounded it properly?

The only way I ever knew I had grounded properly was that the item worked. If it did not and I thought it was the ground I would check to be sure there was bare metal to metal contact. I did not have to do that with my fuel pump and I just used one of the bolts the mounting plate is bolted to the frame with for ground. Whatever bolt you are bolting the pump to the truck with will do fine for a ground spot as long as you are bolting to the frame.
On the Duralast oil pressure switch I don't see why it would not work, the thing is just a switch that cuts off when oil pressure fails.

[BJH324JH]

[QUOTE=geezer101;69968]

A long ground lead is unnecessary as you will (more than likely) mounting the pump to the chassis and by keeping it short you reduce the risk of it failing (running a long ground lead will create resistance = drop in current. The fuel pump might struggle to work at it's optimal capacity...) Testing it - either live (the positive 12v power from the ignition circuit on to the point where you want to ground it to and check your voltage) or with a multimeter and check resistance from a bolt or bare metal and the ground point you're planning on using.

The only way I ever knew I had grounded properly was that the item worked. If it did not and I thought it was the ground I would check to be sure there was bare metal to metal contact. I did not have to do that with my fuel pump and I just used one of the bolts the mounting plate is bolted to the frame with for ground. Whatever bolt you are bolting the pump to the truck with will do fine for a ground spot as long as you are bolting to the frame.
On the Duralast oil pressure switch I don't see why it would not work, the thing is just a switch that cuts off when oil pressure fails.

Thank you so much guys!

[BJH324JH]

Couldn't find t-fittings at my local auto parts store. So I machined one out of aluminium with my crappy tools. I hope it doesn't leak oil. Here are some pictures of the homemade t-fitting if you are interested:
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