Indeed, forum no like 2 meg pics, now they are "only" 200 K or so.
Here they are, long over due. Though these are from the Single and nor from Macro they are both the same. I just did not take pics from the latter one.
Only timing I did not take a pic from is the balance shaft on the passenger side.
Well, so much for that.
Driving to tax office yesterday and Pffff..... stall.
Engine died. Fluids are still present, for as recent as I changed the oil, it seems way too dark. Running the starter and that runs way too smooth. Sounds like I lost nearly all compression. Not tested anything yet, Wife dragged me home yesterday ( that was a trip in several meanings)
I guess this speeds up the thing I needed ( wanted ) to do anyway. Pull the engine and clean/fix it up. Been having little things a and such since I got it up and running again when I bought it. Now the just dropped me in the middle of no where and passes on the note. "I need TCL!!"
So for now while I wait for more parts I am driving Single. Shall keep you all posed on my findings and such as things unfold.
A little late for sure but hope you all have a good Easter.
Well,
I found the cause the engine stopped running. The cause here does not really worry me, lucky engine for being none interference.
The reason for it "snapping" the way it did though has me far more worried.
Not fully confirmed yet but I think somehow the oil pump seized up. Belt got stuck and well. Snapped there as the crank is wwwaaaayyyy stronger in pulling then the pump is in stopping, are the closely matched. Well.
The timing belt becomes the weak link in that and then you most likely get something like this.
Timing belt is only about 8000 miles young and the oil was replaced about 500 miles ago. Had something odd at that time already.
Work taking up too much time and the neighbourhood thinks that having an outdoor dog here is a crime....
Wife car still needs a radiator flush and I have 2 extra cars in the unfinished drive way.
1 day needs 50 hours. 1~10 for work, 8 for sleep and the rest for ones self!!
Picture of the timing belt after the facts.
Well crap,
After having checked the reason for the snapping of the timing belt on the Single, I just walked up the drive way ( FINALLY NO RAIN!! ) and took the timing covers off of the Macro also.
Cam has the same issue as the single and this one never overheated. Was always too cold as the thermostat was stuck on open. Hopefully the weather is going to permit me to take the followers off so I can see a little more.
Anyone have any ideas aside from cracking the head on what may have caused this?
Thx.
Fushy.
How old are the belts? Been sitting on the shelf for too long maybe (I was looking at fixing up a new beetle the other day and VW says change the belt every 3 years no matter the miles)
Any signs of cracking on them? Any coolant, fuel or oil will cut the life down. Condition of the tensioner/idler? Too tight or loose, Harmonic balancer? Wobbling out of line
Maybe they both got done at the same shop?
Haha, umm. Well
For sure they got done in the same shop. Kind of anyway. Single was done in my drive way by me and Macro was done at work in the work shop in my spare time. Also by me. Single belt can be oil and coolant as she leaks.
Macro is rather clean. Thought Macro finally seized up her oil pump as I know one of the bearings there is grinding.
After checking though I noticed both have issues with the cam "snapping" into place every 90 degrees. Not had the time yet to look into that and still not been able to drag single home either.....
I have not fully pulled the covers from Macro yet to check the B belt, crank or oil pump for good state/rotating.
Time to "yell" at the wife to get that done tomorrow. We need shopping for food anyway so have to leave the house.
Hope to find some better or "easy" to fix news once I have them both at home again.
Fushy.
Well, I gots some more news.
I got Single back on the road, driving her as a daily again currently.
Macro engine also runs again but still going to do a overhaul here as her engine has quite some more issues then I like. At least I do not have to strap pull her in the "shop" space anymore.
Anyone know if the 4G64 forklift overhaul kits are 100% the same as the ones used in the pick-ups? Seems to be getting a little more challenging to find kits for this. I may be forced to get all parts individually instead.
Fushy.
Meh, it has happened again. This time though the other party was forced to be present at the scene.
Not related to Mitsubishi at all and I still have to wait on the insurance company for all the details.
Some old lady ( I shall try to stay nice ) reduced my inherited vehicle from a perfectly nearly new state that I just did a major maintenance on ( all fluids changed, timing chain, ..... ). To nothing more then parts on wheels..
Only had it for 5 months and drove it for the first day after all the work and all gone....
1993 Saturn SL2 with almost all factory options that spend more time in the garage the garage running idle ( grand-pa started and ran the car for 15-30 mins ever weekend ) then it ever made road time or miles. Just over 20k miles on the clock and though Texas sun baked some of the interior plastic. is still clean. Even now ( aside from the oil spots and dirt the tow truck driver put on the driver seat ).
Hoping that insurance is going to permit me to use some of these nearly new parts like the seats and some other trinkets to make Macro a little nicer.
Keep some memories present.
Beg my pardon for the lack of Mighty Max on this post
Texas driving is really not getting better ( NYC was safer then here ). I needed a light vent and distraction.
Thank you
Fushy.
Oh man. Is this why they have open carry on fire arms... this was a nice looking car too. Hopefully the insurance will allow buy back
Some old lady !
I need 1.8 BAC to duplicate what she did !
Impaired driving can be from anything that get you high not just alcohol !
Or maybe she was guilty of distracted driving like using her smart phone to watch a movie while eating a bowl of ramen with chopsticks and putting on makeup while reading the morning paper !
Stay Safe & count your blessings that dent looks bad enuff to have injured soneone !
George
Impaired driving should cost a lot more then what it really does out here. Cops should also be out more to support this but state laws make that rather difficult also. Texas is not smart enough to enforce safe driving and what limited things they do try it lacking horribly. I feel for the folks that had limb or life lost here for car related problems. Having the state force you to watch people in the past having created accidents and loss of life does not work for the current generation ( nor the last one ).
Having car insurance companies recommend you use a cell phone so they can keep tabs on you only enforces the driver to stare at that screen more rather then having them focus on the road. Way too many dump rules and laws made by engineers that never drive them self.
Its no different that quite some years ago a woman was killed by a BMW convertable.
The roof top started closing on its own ( some type of timer caused it to do this ) and the woman got stuck between the roof and the windshield as she was trying to clean the car. There where no safeties at all to prevent this. Automatic roll-up ( or down ) doors are required to have pressure sensitive strips to stop them from closing is they hit anything and even open back up after the did. Elevator doors have the same safety in place for if something is stuck between the doors.
Too many engineers out there today that have no real life experience or are working in a field they are not educated enough in.
Meh, Me ranting and raving again I suppose.
I have to admit I make mistakes too but they at worse cost me a few 100s in parts or tools. Not limb nor life. I have hurt myself in not so smart situations but never others.
Next post shall be about my little 4 wheeler :D
Heya all,
Here something a little better, one content kitty. one of the many we have running around the house here.
But not for something more "on topic" Macro cab.
I finally got time and puff to do something. Texas heat it limiting me a lot though, working out in the back yard at 100+ heat, I would rather work in the snow for I am from way further North then this. Macro had issues of running and driving but almost no power. Lots of possible causes here. Pulled the exhaust, that went rather easy for it probably never having been taken appart since build some 30 years ago.
Some stripped bolts and nuts made putting it back together take a little longer.
CAT plugged with carbon build up. Ok, found at least 1 cause of low power and not I also have to search for what cause it to plug up in the first place.
I did all this work in the course of several days. The next morning I found oil on cylinder 4 exhaust valve stem. Well, new valve stem seals and while doing that I can clean the valve train.
Sure need some cleaning, also checked the intake valves and put new gaskets on there to make sure there are not intake leaks. What a pain removing that 30 year old stuff.
Here you can see the clean springs in front and the yet to be cleaned ones in the back along with the spring compressor tool ( or at least part of the tool ).
And here, not enough space for all that I am doing at the same time. Fixing an A/C, working on the engine and who knows what else I was doing to make that mess of tools and parts.
Time for the followers!
Looky, all sping sparkling clean.
Even got the valve cover mostly clean.
A night shot of the work space, it got a little late.
Seems I have not taken any pics yet of it all put back together.
Engine started right up on first try but runs horribly rich. Test so far indicates likely the fuel pressure regulator. At curb idle it its in the high 40 PSIs where it should be around 38. The high pressure ( vacuum disconnected ) is around spec at 50 ish PSI.
Ordered a new one and hopefully that will fix it. if it stays running rich I may have to revert back to the original injectors.
Anyway, here is all the work done so far.
New gaskets on all exhaust parts, new CAT and new O2 sensor
New spark plugs ( Irridium ones ), wires where replaced a few years ago and so was the whole distributor.
All cooling hoses replaced ( I had those randomly burst on my single cab, better safe then sorry I figure this time ).
New fuel pump and gas tank gaskets ( single cab tank was full or rust when I did that one, Macro was completely clean though ). Still 30 years old can use some extra love and care.
New fuel filter and injectors.
All intake gaskets replaced.
Hehe, I also got me new switch arms at the steering wheel to now have intermitend wipers. That was probably the most expensive part.
So well, there you have it. Single cab is still taking me to work and back or other places. I wish Single her A/C was working though, Macro hers still works so hoping to have her back on the road very much sooner then later with this heat wave.
Fushy.
Well, summer has passed and winter is here. At least for a few days we will get frost again.
Macro still running way rich. I installed the original injectors again and though that helped a little it did not help.
Fuel pressure regulator was also not the issue and having done a pressure rest on Single aswell. I would have to say it never was the regulator. Both single and Macro pressures are the same.
Other idea was also a dead end. I swapped the ECUs and even that did not resolve the issue. ECU of Macro is in better shape. Single has a diode or other small component that went missing when it was rebuild. Macro ECU still has it. Somehow it seems to affect the "learning" process of the ECU.
Last idea I have is an issue with the O2 sensor or its wiring rather. I was unable to remove the original sensor and I have to cut the wires to put my tools on it. ( This was before I had the proper sensor socket ). One of my tests to find the cause was installing the original sensor again and hook my multi meter up to it. measured out of specs according to online and the manual.
Regardless of what sensor I install ( original or either of the 2 new ones ) the effect on the engine is the same.
I found a bunch more wire issues on the passenger side that also prevents the AC from running as it should.
Current guess is the O2 sensor is not connected to the ECU at all or giving false infromation.
I connected all my electronics gadgets and I recorded some of the sensors.
Distributor fast and slow signals, all 4 injectors and the spark. I wired all this in on the ECU of the Single cab and used that one on both my Pick-ups. Only major difference I have spotted so far is a large difference in the injector timings.
Single is 2-6 ms shorter or about 1.2~3 % shorter per pulse for the same RPM. There is the rich running. Now to find out why.
Next time I hook my loggers up again I shall also hook the analogue signals such as temp sensor, O2 sensor
Is there anyone out there that has a schematic from the air intake sensor?
I found rather little of this one.
As usual I am doing way too many things ( or I have too much projects running ) at once.
You all better stay warm out there. I am still cruzing around in my little Mighty Max's. No AC but dont need that currently. No issues with my heaters, leaky or drafty door seals though :D
Following this, very interested in the pulse width variations,
any chance of posting screen shots of recorded data? Thanks!!
-in the mean time- some I.A.T. info
looks to be a generic ntc thermistor and circuit.
and
Did you figure out if the 4G64 forklift overhaul kits are the same as the ones used in the pickups? I'd like to overhaul my little truck. It too has more sounds than I like.
Here I am again.
I have some "new" news?
For the forklift overhaul/rebuild kit. Specs on the manuals say they should all be the same parts. Some references call the engine installed in the pick-ups the "Forklift" model of the 4G64. I have not bought a kit myself to really confirm this though. The need I not may have however.
Worked some more on Macro and found something I did not understand at first. Higher then normal compression before all my work. Did my work and not I have 3 cylinders with below normal compression and 1 that only just barely meats the low end. Changing the cat made this come to light.
Made no sense to me at first. Mostly found the cause now though. I noticed some really odd "wear" rust around the pick-up when I got it. Now I bought a bore scope and took a peek in the cylinders through the spark plug holes. Think I know why this engine only has 123k miles on it when I got it. I know my other one was a barn find but was more or less regularly driven when I got it. Macro would seems to have suffered from lack of oil circulation and in general internal engine components moving. Cylinder one seems to have what looks like "ingraved" piston rings on the top. Like the engine was stuck at TDC for a very long time.
Have been able to now detect minor compression losses through the piston rings but only minor ( I still need them replaced regardless ).
Found the main leak in the exhaust valve seats and valves. I took pics of both engines I have and compared to info I found online. Single her engine needs work also but the seal and valve surfaces seem "clean" where they touch ( seal ). Macro on the other hand seems to have either "rust" or a lot of carbon build up on the sealing surfaces. My scope did not manage to make pics clear enough to really see what it might be other then the uneven parts in the surface.
The rich running and hotter then normal exhaust cause found. Extra fuel is injected because the O2 sensor only detects part of the burned fuel due to a faction of the power stroke is blown straight past the exhaust valve. I doubt that these older ECU's measure all values constantly and rather only really read its sensors ( O2, air intake, ... ) at small parts of the engine cycle.
Replacing the valve seats seems like a "fun" task. Engine still runs and starts right up. Even on the "dead" battery I am currently using for it.
Driving around here and there now with Macro dispite the issues. I am done with this heat wave and Macro has working A/C in it! Still on R12 too lol Ice cold cab with 100F out here in Texas.
I may opt to do a lot more work though. put a 4G63 twin cam head on it or an other one with MiVec. I also found some other interesting info about the 4G6X engines. Stay with in the same generation and nearly all parts are ( somewhat ) interchangable.
4G61 crank ( Destroking from 2.4 to 1.8 )
twin cam head maybe with a cruse control throttle valve.
Cruse control with limits is easy enough to make on the existing throttle valve. Could say use the cruse control hardware from a Infinity QX4. Converting this setup over to the Mighty Max looks very doable. it screws on the existing throttle connector and adds a second cable for the cruse to open the valve without moving the existing pedal hardware.
So many ideas and so little time and other resources.
Will you look at that. I got locked out of the forum again....
Time is passing me by too fast.
Well as for Macro. About 9k itsh miles further. Stranded in the back yard agian. Wore through a set of tires, again. Too many times I had front end alligned and now finally have a shop that told me the real issue.
Both lower control arm bushings, all ball joints ( partly my fault as I never greased these ) strut rod pushings.
So far mostly rubber parts that are well. Mostly missing. As thus I am rebuilding most of the front end. With that I also likely found what really happened with this puck-up. Either the last owner or the one before him did a lot of off roading. Strange rusted parts now explained. Rusted valve seats. Well. Hit a puddle of water ( mud ) and have the bottom mudded in while the intake breath a nice glup of water.
As such this little one is currently not running. Soon will be. Summer is back and I am not liking the current heat.
There still seem to be quite a few scrap yards around the USA that have these pick-ups in there yards.
I managed to find quite a few with the A style clister, power steering, camper cab, seats in the macro instead of bench. Even 2 with the original Mitsu radio. I should save some money for a road trip to go scrap yard running for parts and such :D
Well. This one is puzzling me. Changed inner, outer tie rods and pit and idler arms ( 2 years ago ). This due to alignment issues and the old parts where toast.
Earlier this year I went to a shop for alignment and they found too many parts wrong to be able to do it. There advice was 300 ish dollars worth of work and parts.
Upper and lower control arms, both sides. All front wheel bearings and ther race's. Front brakes.
No idea currently why they have removal and reinstall of the steering gear.
Over the course of the last few weeks I changed.
Upper and lower ball joints both sides. Changed lower arm buchings. Changed strut bolt bushings. Changed sway bar bolts and bushings.
Front brakes where fine but the brake fluid was well over its usefullness.
While I was under there I also did gear box oil. Last owner would seem to have used GL5 instead of 4. There was what I would describe a lot of copper shavings in the oil. Changed if out got GL4 of slightly different weight over the recommended.
Did alignment myself ( not that I have the right tools or space for it ). Seemed not bad. Camber for as far as I could test it was the same left and right. Left set the gsuge on 0 and right gave me 2.5 degree's. Measuring slope on the ground with a simple level gave me between 2 and 3 degree's. Thus this would seem ok.
Not sure how to do Caster.
Shims where put back the same way I took them out after removing and pressing in the ball joint. Upper arm bushings I could not find thus the originals remain. They seemed ok. Least compared to the lower ones. Lower arm bushings where virtually gone.
The ball joints did not seem to have and marks on them as to what direction to press them in. So those where just pressed in. Somehow I magically pressed them in the same way with the hole for the pin in the bolt facing the arm... What a pain to put the pin in that way.
But got it all together. Surprised at some of the torque specs in the hanes manual though. They seem very high for some small bolts.
After all the work and hours sweating in the blazin sun out here. I would seem to have failed in my endevor.
After my own alignment I have horrible screeching tires. After I have had the shop I went to last time align them. It got no better. Crossing fingers and thinking "Put the other wheels on. It may help". Was no better. Worse even. Pick-up is janking me all over the place at the tiniest touch of the wheel.
I will have to re-check my work again but at the same time I would find it odd for me to mess up on these things. Really making me wonder what else it could be or what the last owners could have possible done that prevents this.
Time to hide somewhere and blow up some zombies!
Nice cat hope you get a member to help...
Daily Overhauls Do Get Expensive
That big ball off fuzz is "Stitch" one of our 3 cats with odd eyes. That body of his is way toooo big for that little soul that is hiding within
"Black Jack" below was my cat. Lost his life recently due to medical issue's. Good cat to me but hated the wife.
With all the work on the pick-up they have kind of been left out. Let go and attempt to make the best of my current time and yank the wheels one on the ground and 1 off. Maybe I can trace it. Thought about it all night somehow. Not sure you can call it sleep. Who knows what all the mind cannot come up with at night.
Current possible options. Lose nut or bolt. One of the new parts was broken. One of the welds on the frame is busted or something else broke. Not that I seen any of the latter under the there yet. Surface rust, yep. Real rot or broken. Not yet ( hopefully will not ).
I found some damage on the upper arms. Seems the arms are weak ( likely a form of metal fatigue ). The holes for the ball joints are not able to hold them in place and the safety clips on the bottom are preventing from falling off all together. Nice to know they are there and strong enough to hold the weight.
Quick solution to that problem. I have welder, arm and balls are metal. Conclusion : next time I will need new arms either way so they are currently fused as one unit. Welding job is holding but steering is still out of whack. As I am forcing work on my other pick-up currently I have not further looked at this one. Last guess would be the lower joints. I remember that the bolt holes on the arm and ball joints did not allign fully and I cheated. Having thought about it for some time now my "cheat" was probably just a stupid thought that it would work. I am searching for a little luck to have time this weekend for as busy as its going to be to be able to at least confirm my thought on one of the lower arms.
You all out there better be staying cool. 100+ weather out here is cooking me alive while I am attempting to get things done outside.
Fushy.
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