thats what made me mention it. the steering would require work as the s10 is front steer, whereas the mitsus are rear steer. The wheel bases maybe close, but as he said, the work on the s10 was bad, but the parts are good - the work to fix is probably more than to put the parts on the other truck.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Im thinking its a "single leaf" ( meaning he took the rest of the leafs out of the equation) and not "monoleaf" ( as in a specially purchased single leaf used to lower the rear) Ill have to ask him or look again. But yes there are some parts that can be sold or repurposed.Originally Posted by pennyman1
This particular truck is definitely ugly ,rusted and busted. No way Im swapping frames, way too much work to get it all together.
Im supposed to pick up the truck this weekend. Dude is gonna throw in two extra sets of aluminum wheels. I went to check it out in the dark and Im sure it only gets uglier in the daylight.
The rust hole in the roof let water ruin the floors and then rot out the rocker panel. The windows have been down for a while too. The whole inside is trashed. The air cleaner wasn't installed and the truck wasn't started in so long that the throttle plate is stuck with heavy white corrosion. Over 200,000 mile four banger with 5 spd.
Here she is
more pics
thats soooo prudy...ugly...
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
It's not rust, it's patina.
Got it home. Its really rusty. Driver floor board is completely rotted out. Alternator is locked up. No e-brake or brakes at all. Throttle plate rusted shut. Gonna save what I can before its demise. Started stripping it down today.
The headlights and turn signals are new and going on a friends truck
The door weatherstrip is new and I think it will fit on my 65 dart ( or so Ive read)
Three sets of aluminum wheels
Poly endlink bushings
Taillights and harness will go on my trailer
New battery / alternator cables
The Bags hold air but not all night. The rear was almost flat when I got back to it. The front went down a bit. One of the fill valves is stuck open and I think I can rebuild it. The welding work done was actually decent but Im probably gonna cut most of it out anyway. Just gotta get the bed off of my max again and see how close the frames are. Im not trying to use the s10 rear end since I bought a limited slip center section for the Mitsubishi.
Last edited by crvtec90; 01-23-2015 at 09:24 AM. Reason: adding parts to list
100_1592.jpg
Got the bags, lines and solenoid valves removed tonight. Bags are Firestone 224C 2600lb.
those s10 cups on the front bags should work well on the front of the truck without mods, but you may have to trim the upper spring pockets to prevent bag chaffing.
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
That's kinda what I was hoping for. I also have the front shock brackets for the s10 that were never welded on. They're covered in rust much like the rest of it but they'll clean up. Not sure if they're shaped correctly for mm/d50.
Ive been reading build threads on here and other forums trying to figure out which direction I want to go in. More than one way to get er dun
Pulled the rear glass out of the s10. Gasket and glass came out together by rolling the seal on the inside of the cab with plastic trim tools while applying light pressure on the glass. Had my buddy on the outside holding on to the glass so it wouldn't fall down and break. The previous owner had stickers all over it and I figured Id give it back to him so he can hang it in his garage as a memento. I was just gonna cut the gasket to get it out easily but I felt better knowing the rubber would protect the edges from cracking and then ruining the glass. I tried to get the stickers off the windshield and stuck to the back glass but they have thin lines that are difficult to not tear and don't like to stick very well anymore. I know its silly cuz they're just stickers but I luv me sum stickers and I know he does too. Any tips to get stickers to stick well again?
Lots of good build threads to read on this site and elsewhere on the net. One build made mention of the distance in between the rear frame rails. I imagine that my truck should be identical. That being said.... the s10 is narrower by an inch or so. Still haven't gotten the bed off of my truck to confirm. Also unsure if the s10 notch will fit the way I like. However the notches aren't very expensive so not the end of the world. Havent decided yet if I wanna just go bag over axle for a bit and then have to re work later for a nice four link. I get a little lazy and grinding the bag perches off the axle would be a waste if I don't end up using them.
Id really like to lay frame on my 17 inch wheels. Kinda scary to think if I possibly lose air pressure while driving that the truck will start grinding the road so Ill probably put some bump stops so that it stays up 1/4 inch or so. Any thoughts?
I know I have to rework cross members, maybe cut some inner fender out and pie cut the upper control arms ( to eliminate ball joint bind)... but DO I NEED DROP SPINDLES? If not then I can sell them and use the $ for something else.
Tank and bracket assembly cut out. They'll get rearranged /reworked and closer together . Need a good clean n paint
Use a heat gun might get your stickers off with the glue intact, go slow so you don't warp the sticker as you pull.
They also have 2 face tape available, in fact they use this tape in colder areas to tape cellophane to window frames to keep breezes out. It's a thin application that you apply the tape to and then remove the paper part of the tape which just leaves the adhesive only on what ever you placed it on.
Pretty sticky stuff too since it holds the cellophane to the window frame real well for insulation.
3M Indoor Insulator Film Mounting Tape
Thanx Brad. Heat gun is a great idea especially since its so cold out. Some of them are difficult with lots of detail/ skinny lines. Not your average solid stickers.100_1605.jpg100_1604.jpg
Performed the surgery on the rear clip. Shoved some 2x4 between the leaf springs and frame to keep it from dropping all the way to the ground. This way it will still roll around and onto a trailer.
With the rear frame rails removed it made plenty of room to get at the rear axle to grind off the rear bag perches.
The s10 is filling up with scrap metal but the price is kinda low right now for scrap. Still gotta go back to pick up the bed n tailgate
Those rims are worth more then the rest of the truck
lol, Fordubishi didn't notice that there is 2-toned rust on that baby and takes extra time to create.
Break out the giant wirewheel and start shooting sparks over to the neighbors yard.
Almost sold the wheels yesterday. A guy came by in a sweet el camino with an even nicer set of rims ( in my opinion anyhow). He said he was actually looking for the saw blade rims on the s10 . The s10 tires were new but sat for so long that theyre not worth driving on. We couldn't make a deal but I think we'll stay in touch and come to an agreement later. I wasn't willing to budge on price right now since If I sell them the truck wont have wheels to roll on. Price of scrap is low right now and Id rather have someone put them on their car/truck instead of throwing them away.
Thankfully the neighbors are pretty cool with it so far. Sparks and all.
I always offer a helping hand or loan tools. If they didn't like it Id just get a bigger fence.
Theres a train track that goes behind every house on my street so its pretty hard for me to more noise than a train.
Got the max back under the car port. I was supposed to get the bed off last night with the help of my brother but ended up doing a timing belt/water pump on his wife's civic instead. The cam n crank seals were leaking and she would probably end up blowing up the engine if we didn't hurry up and get it done.
Sold the saw blade s10 wheels yesterday for $100. So guess they are worth more than the s10. Ha!
The uncle of the guy I bought the s10 from is actually interested in buying the worn out drivetrain to put in an old vega wagon (or something like that) Not sure why he would wanna do that but "lets make a deal". There was hardly any fluid in the rear diff when I took the cover off. Noticed a good size chunk missing from one of the ring gear teeth
Still have 2 sets of wheels left. Unfortunately none of which have rubber to put on the s10 so its wont roll around for the time being. I think the ones on the right are "slots" Two of them are phoney but the other 2 have Chrysler stickers and a multi-lug pattern that I think will fit the smaller bolt pattern on my 65 dart.
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