used #2 port for fan switch
#1 - M16 x 1.5
#2 - 3/8" NPT pipe thread
#3 - 3/8" NPT pipe thread
#4 - 1/8" NPT pipe thread.
used #2 port for fan switch
#1 - M16 x 1.5
#2 - 3/8" NPT pipe thread
#3 - 3/8" NPT pipe thread
#4 - 1/8" NPT pipe thread.
Last edited by turbomax; 04-23-2011 at 08:47 PM.
Currently have port #2 filled with the temp sensor for my aftermarket temp gauge. The starions had the relay temp switch screwed into the bottom of the radiator . I saw an old caravan that way also and was hoping to do the same.Originally Posted by turbomax
used #2 port for fan switch
#1 - M16 x 1.5
#2 - 3/8" NPT pipe thread
#3 - 3/8" NPT pipe thread
#4 - 1/8" NPT pipe thread.
Our trucks don't have bungs in the radiator, but you could take it to a radiator shop and probably have one welded on. I put my starion temp switch in port 2 to for my fans. You could also try buying a hose adapter that splices into the upper radiator hose and screw the sensor into the adapter. Should be able to find one on ebay.
Also, if your not running AC you could try port #4.
Last edited by turbomax; 04-25-2011 at 04:24 PM.
With a reducer, you can probably get away without tapping 4, if you want to put the switch there.
Well my egr valve has been acting up. The spring is getting weak and it opens when its not supposed to causing a rough idle. Went ahead and picked up a block off plate from ebay.
nice....little dress up and problem solver...
I usually buy a shingle from home depot for like a dollar can use tin snips and a drill for the bolt holes. Also, turns this into a washer that sandwiches between the egr and intake manifold.
Energy suspension bushings and new coil springs installed. Time for some new shocks. My old coils were well worn and now my front end sits a little more level and doesnt scrape the fenders when I hit bumps. I had some belltech performance drop shocks on the front....probably not the best idea to have drop shocks without the drop coils since they dont have as much travel. The shock that was matched to the sagging spring is blown out. Im probably gonna get some kyb or tokico for the front and not sure about the rear. I have 3 inch drop blocks so I want some drop shocks but Im thinking of air shocks in case I want to put a load in the bed and not bottom out.
I should have changed out all the bushings years ago. They had worn so badly that metal was contacting on the shafts and removing material. Now its all nice and tight. No squeaking. I changed out the rear shackle bushings for the leaf springs no problem but the front eyelet bushing in the kit didnt look like it would fit correctly. The old ones were still in decent shape so I left them alone.
The front sway bar bushing brackets didnt fit very well either so I took the new bushings and installed with the old brackets.
I did take pics but for some reason my camera wouldnt give them to the computer. Selfish electronics piss me off. Or maybe it was the computer that wouldnt take them from the camera. Stubborn computers need a ho slap. Then theres always operator error.
Ive been trying to score a set of mono leaf springs to replace my sagging ones. I want to have them installed and check my final ride height before I set up the rear sway bar.
I took the sway bar and brackets, knocked the loose rust off with a wire wheel and grinder. Then I let them soak overnight in some evaporust. It loosens the old paint a little and dissolves the rust.
When you're done with your suspension, can you redo mine too? lol
Seriously though, kick ass progress man. That evapo-rust looks like it does a bang up job. Might have to try that stuff out.
Perfect wheel and tire set-up!
-RHP
Thanx man.....it was a trick to get them mounted up. I had bought them off ebay from the previous owner who had already had the hubs machined larger to fit an import truck. The problem was getting the center caps on. The cap has plastic lugs that screw onto threads on the outsideof the lug nuts. Chevrolet style. The full size chevy truck uses a 14mm lug while the max uses a 12mmm......so I had to get inserts for the lug nuts to make them fit. Then I had a sign shop make me sum stickers to cover up the chevy bowtie emblem on the center cap. Id like to get it a little lower but Im not sure the wheels will tuck the front fenders without going negative on my camber and eat up my tires.
100_1421.jpg100_1420.jpgBought sum new shocks front and rear. I was happy with the belltechs I had so I bought another set. The driver side was worn out from the weak coil spring. The truck feels way better....nice and firm. They are a lot beefier than the stock shocks and it takes some patience to get them installed. I had to grind the ends a little bit on the lower mount to get it to fit through the hole on the lower control arm. Also, the metal dust cover is too wide to fit so I had to use the original plastic unit with a spacer. The directions say you can run them without the dust shield but I didnt want any more crap getting on the shafts and sitting on the seals. They are supposed to come with a spacer that is used when not installing the shields but they were not in the box. I just used sum washers i had in the garage instead.
Unfortunately my driver side leaf spring is worn out. I can feel a big difference from the passenger side just by pushing down on the bed. Gotta get that handled before I wear out my new rear shocks.
got my rear sway bar all cleaned up and painted. I used truck bed coating on the brackets. Now i gotta go get some endlinks and set it up.
Nice progress....ill have some info on those rims n tires not too long from to now
Is that a factory rear swaybar
The rear sway bar is off a Ford F-150 (89 or 90 I think). I got the idea from turbomax.
Any chance you've driven your truck yet with the rear sway bar?
I did mount the bar to the axle, but haven't hooked up the endinks yet. Im slacking big time and been sick too.
Truck has been running good so ive left it alone to work on my other project .....I finally took apart my s16g to inspect.....looks like a rebuild is in order.
Limited slip differential is ordered . 3.54 gears....gotta figure out what additive I need for the fluid....also figure out how far off my speedometer is gonna be with different gears.
MPH RPM gears & tires:
mph = rpm x tire diameter / gear ratio x 336
rpm = mph x gear ratio x 336 / tire diameter
gear ratio = rpm x tire diameter / mph x 336
tire diameter = mph x gear ratio x 336 / rpm
tire size & their effect:
tire diameter = 2 x selection width x aspect ratio / 2540 + rim diameter
Easier for you..
mph = rpm x tire diameter / differential gear ratio x 336/ transmission gear ratio
0826111057.jpg0826111053.jpg0826111100.jpg
MP3
Not much new to share . A while back I tinted a spare set of taillights......turned out well
they turned out dark yet still bright when lit up
Junkyard score ! Minty fresh fenders . No dents and no rust.
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