The uncle of the dude I got the s10 parts truck from drove a few hours to come buy the engine and trans out of the s10. Apparently he wants to boost the lil four banger with a carb manifold and stick it in his chevy vega. $100 later we were both happy.
How hard was it changing out lower control arm bushings? Did you use a spring compressor to take out the coils?
The bushings aren't fun to change. Used a jack stand under the frame with a floor jack under the lower control arm to take out the coils. There might be a write-up around this site somewhere. Gotta be real careful with a big spring under pressure.Originally Posted by 85d50austin
Went to the junkyard with my brother looking for parts for his wifes caravan and ended up spotting a mighty max with tach cluster and dash clock. Unfortunately I forgot to get the oil pressure sending unit so hopefully it will be there when I get back. I was gonna grab the bumper brackets since I see members looking for them sometimes but the passenger side was beat to crap. The radio bezel isn't mint condition but still usable. Hooked up the clock to a battery tonight to make sure it still works but Ill have to wait for another day to install the cluster.
^^^^^^^^nice
The electrical connector for the clock was already in the dash so its installed and operational.
Went back to the junkyard and grabbed the oil pressure sending unit. Cluster is installed loosely and so far just the tach doesn't work. Googled and searched but all I see is people jumping a connector under the hood. I no longer have the stock engine or engine harness so I need to know which wire color and pin corresponds with the tach cluster. I already have a wire run from the coil to my aftermarket tach. My Haynes manual just says connector c07 but no wire color or pin location.
Im guessing it its the very last white wire on connector c07. When I follow the trails on the circuit board it goes near the tach and has "IG-" written on it.
I'd love one of those
I wish I could got to the junkyard for parts up here. I called 8 yards in Ontario and none of them have any ram 50's..grrrr
That's about how it goes. They only show up once in a while around here. Usually in bad shape but I always take a good look for anything I can use. Theres gotta be parts from a dozen different trucks used to put mine together.
Took it for a drive this weekend. Didn't get very far before I realized the RF brake caliper locking up. Figured I would swap over the caliper from my parts truck only to find it locked up as well.
I already had it apart and couldnt find a store that stocked new calipers so I managed to disassemble the LF caliper from the parts truck and use the piston/seals to quick fix my RF caliper. Working okay so far but I went ahead and ordered new calipers today.
Took the rear leaf spring assemblies apart. Removed the helper springs leaving only the main spring and a three inch block. No bump stops. Just trying to get an idea of where my ride height will be. The drive shaft is already hitting the tunnel. Looks good though. Had some friends stand in the bed to weigh it down to see if the tires rub the wheel lip. Its gonna need some massaging.
Thinking about all the metal I have cut up.....and then looking at all that I still need to cut ......Decided to buy a plasma cutter.
Picked up a versa cut 40 from Eastwood. Got it super fast after ordering. Having difficulties right now as it only strikes an arc when it wants to. It will blow through metal once it gets going but when I let go of the trigger to pause and start again it gets no go.
Maybe just operator error but Ive used a Hobart at work and never had any problems. Ive got an electrician to help guide me through a new circuit in my fuse panel for a dedicated circuit.
Got a replacement plasma cutter. Working well but not in tight spaces so I picked up a set of extended tips that are good for getting into corners. Still playing with it before I start cutting on anything real important. It draws a lot of power and I still need to work on a better dedicated circuit. Thinking about using my dryer outlet which is on its own 30 amp breaker.
The s10 parts truck is gone to the big scrap pile in the sky. Filled it up with as much junk as possible and drug it away. The whole time I waited for scrap prices to go back up they just kept going down but it was time to get it out the way.
Thanx to Woody65 for driving up and buying my old gray truck bed. He brought the whole crew which made it a lot easier to get it out of my back yard. Ive still got the green bed from my parts truck which I dream of making a trailer to pull behind my truck. Not that I really need a trailer but I just like it. Maybe some dump action so I can scrap metal with ease.
No problem man, thanks for making my truck look soo much better.IMG_20160103_120620.jpgIMG_20160103_120620.jpg
Hey woody......Looks much better on your truck than behind my garage.
There was a mm for sale locally with no engine for $500 but I missed out. I had called during the week and planned to go look at it over the weekend but then they wouldn't answer my calls or return texts. Hopefully whoever is in possession will end up on this site. Way too nice to scrap.
I went to send you the ad for it the other day
https://ocala.craigslist.org/cto/5404677454.html this one just popped up a couple days ago but I don't have the money
Well I came across the 87 that I sold to my friend a while back. I was hoping to get it back if he ever sold it but I missed out. Didn't last very long and now its on the death bed at the local pick a part. I saw it online but didn't recognize it since they painted. Once I got to the yard it was obviously my old truck.
20161112_131655.jpgbyebye
sad to see it go like that...
It's not so bad, it's an '87. LMAO....I sent an '87 to the metal scrap yard once. It was weird to see a decent looking vehicle get grabbed by that metal eating monster crane and lifted off the ground like it was it's bitch. Crane man slid it over to the pile and dropped it and then started beating on it like it owed him money. What a great job he has. hahahahah! They ain't getting my '86, that is for sure.
Its been far 2 long. Jax Max registration expired in October 2012. Finally putting it back into service after 7 years of sitting. Its been mostly under a makeshift pole barn so not just out in the rain under a tree. I made sure to at least run it every few months and try to move it around. Its just a shame to have it sitting around but Ive been driving a much newer ford ranger with cold a.c. and alot less miles.
Well the ranger has been sold and the license plate is now on the max. Actually drove it to work today after putting the leaf springs back together and replacing both front calipers. I never got around to installing air bag suspension like I wanted but maybe someday before I cant drive anymore. Just too many projects going on right now and wanted to use jax max as my parts hauler again.
Which brings me to actual progress. Got the parts truck unburied from the back yard. Unlike jax max, it on the other hand has been outside, under a tree, and in the rain. I towed it up to the shop I work at to get moving on my bed trailer. The cab has been removed. Its just junk and patch panels for jax max. I stripped all the fuel/brake lines and extra pieces from the frame. Picked up a trailer tongue to weld on and a new trailer jack.
With cab removed from frame I started to strip everything else that wouldnt be needed for the trailer. Motor and trans came out together very easily when there's no body surrounding it. I removed all the fuel and brake lines as well as the spare tire with mount. Trying to remove as much weight as possible. Looking back now it may have been better to leave the brake shoes and e brake cable to have a parking brake but a block of wood under the tire works good too.
I cut the frame off right at the point where it begins to slope back upwards forward of the cab. I then pie cut the frame twice on both sides. There was hardly any planning or actual measuring. I knew the pie cuts would be equal on both sides because I used the factory punched oblong holes in the frame. First bend near the bed goes inward. Second bend goes outward. Made both the pie cuts on the inside of the rails. That way it will have a smooth bend visible from the outside.
Once I had the bends close I clamped the tongue assembly into position and measure from multiple spots on both sides of the frame rail to make sure it was square. Once I was sure it was where I wanted I made plates to go inside the frame rail to tie it back together. I will smooth those out after welding and then make more plates for the outside of the frame rail. So it will be welded inside the actual rectangular tube and outside the tube.
I bought a pre made trailer tongue from Northern Tool supply. $20. 5000 pound class 2. It has a 50 degree angle. Also got a tongue jack for another 20$. Used the factory wire harness for the lighting after removing the extra wires.
Its turning out very nicely. Still needs finishing touches but its getting there. I will eventually get a matching set of 4 rims. 2 will go on the trailer axle and the other 2 will each be a spare for the truck and / or trailer.
Also need to find a cheap truck bed tool box which will serve 2. purposes. It will hold stuff locked out of the weather and it will also add a bit of weight to the front of the trailer. I need to be careful to balance the load.
I was trying to build it where it would tow well and look good. I honestly think it could use a little more length on the rails to help when backing up the trailer in reverse.
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Other side
Havent decided if I should build/buy a tubular bumper or just a hide away hitch reciever. The current bumper is in rough shape and needs to have the ball slightly lower in order to level out the trailer a bit in the front
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