Got to play with my exhaust a ill bit. I had the resonator tip underneath the bed in front of the axle. It was way loud inside the cab so I put on a magnaflow muffler and stuck the tip out the back. Now its super quiet.
I'm gonna mess with it a ill more and probably take the giant tip off. I was just trying to have fun with it. I used to have a 95 camaro cat-back exhaust with the dual tips on the back but it would get in the way of the engine hoist legs when I was loading engines in the bed.
Last edited by crvtec90; 04-19-2012 at 03:16 PM.
I'd leave the tip on, but suck it back under the bed some more. Maybe notch out the roll pan and tuck it up in there some so it doesnt sit so low to the ground.
ditto...
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no to the tennis ball launcher!!! lol
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
I think its a good idea to notch the bed and tuck the muffler tip .....that's something I'll try for....thanx guys
If you get the notch cut nice and round to fit well with the muffler it could almost look stock.
Originally Posted by pennyman1
OK now thats funny.
Add more angle, and then add an auto loader. Maybe give it some ribs to give it the back spin. Longer hang time. You could have a new driving game. Knock the motorcyclist off his bike. ....
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Its actually big enough for a softball.OK now thats funny.
Add more angle, and then add an auto loader. Maybe give it some ribs to give it the back spin. Longer hang time. You could have a new driving game. Knock the motorcyclist off his bike. ....
Rocker panel repair today. They were pushed up and bent at the pinchweld on both sides. Had to clamp on to the pinch weld and get it chained to the floor. Then jack the truck up slowly by the frame to pull the pinch weld back down into place.
Clever way to straighten that - I like it!
Pennyman1
The best Dodge that Dodge never made
Living the D-50 lifestyle since 1980
Had some fun stripping the parts truck. Got the doors off and gutted them. Gonna straighten them up and paint them before I put them on my truck
My starter quit working after I filled up at the gas station. I got the truck rolling by pushing with the door open, hopped in, stuck it in first gear and then dumped the clutch. That got it fired up so I could get home. I have several extra starters (some are 2.0 and some 2.4/2.6 or are they all the same) But to my surprise there wasnt anything wrong with the starter. The positive battery cable had broken off right at the crimp in the terminal. I guess maybe the cable wasnt secure enough and it just wiggled so much over time that it broke.
Bed rails have rusty holes from where a topper was bolted on. I drilled the holes out a lil bigger to clean up the rust inside the holes. Then I welded them up and ground them down smooth again.
Found another parts truck last night about 45 min away. Went to go check it out and it looks halfway decent. 1987 shortbed 2.0 5spd.....he took the carb off because he thought that there was something wrong with it.
The seller wouldnt let me take it away before I got the title transferred into my name. I guess thats just to protect him. Personally never done it myself or had any problems but he wasnt gonna let me. I was so excited last night that I couldnt even sleep. Took care of the title today. They really bent me over at the dmv for a title transfer. Geeeez!
Went to go pick it up tonight but Its raining like crazy and I didnt want to be on highways and bridges in the rain towing a truck. Damn.
I was hoping to throw the carb back on it and see what happens. Maybe Ill get lucky and it just needs some tweaking. possibly just remove some emissions stuff since we dont have smog inspections here. Most likely its trashed though. I see most of u guys go with the weber conversion. I looked into rebuild kits for the mikuni but they all look like gasket kits with no enrichment or accelerator pump stuff. I saw a techinical service bulletin about not removing screws for the accelerator pump or the enrichment valve because they were installed with special sealant and the screws would probably snap off in the housing. It also goes on to say that those parts are not available and i would have to get a whole new unit. This is an old publication so maybe or maybe not still true. The main thing is I would like to hear it run so i know the engine isnt shot and maybe move it around a lil bit so it doenst become an oversized lawn ornament. When i get the carb bolted back down ill squirt some carb cleaner into the intake and see if it fires off for me.
almost wish I would have started with this red truck instead. Mine was beat to crap when I first got it. Im gonna canibalize it to get mine straightened up. Between the two trucks I hope to end up with one nice and one clunker. The parts truck has rusty rocker panels, cracked windshield, dented hood , but the bed is even better than the one bought a while back from the junkyard . If im really lucky ill get it running again and sell it to get $ back
Last edited by crvtec90; 06-08-2012 at 07:43 PM.
After a quick inspection I noticed that several vacuum lines and block off caps were all dried out/ craked broken. I used some new hose and bolted the carb back down. Took quite a while to get fuel back up to the carb so i just poured a lil bit down in there to get it to pop off. Voila! she runs pretty good. I dunno why the previous owner took the carb off but it might have just been the vacuum ports were leaking.
Unfortunately the a.c. doesnt work. I was told it worked 3-4 months ago. I can see the clutch is slipping on the compressor and I might be able to slap another one on there for the time being.
The interior is in bad shape. Most of the plastic is decaying and flaking apart. The armrests are way beyond repair. BUT! it actually has the factory jack and spare tire tools. Ive never see them for myself and was wondering if they ever really existed at all LOL.
It also feels like the brakes are dragging. I took it around the block a few times. Not bad for 175,000 miles.
The little buzzer box that lets you know the key is in the ignition has its benefits. It does a good job of warning the driver not to leave the key on. But when its old and worn out it lets out a horrible sound that drives me nuts. I just reached under the dash and followed the screaching sound then unplugged it. Sigh of relief for silence.
This red truck is like a time capsule. Its mostly original and unmolested. As far as i can tell, all the emissions/ a.c./ coolant decals are still there and visible. Original vacuum lines with the color stripes and emissions switches and valves. The owners manual is in the glove box too. The radio is not original but it still looks like it has the factory mounting bracket. There is also a metal shield under the front by the crossmember that I dont recall seeing before.
Super rare 87 armrest with custom decay and patina
Jack and spare stuff
That's not oil leaking ......its just sweating from too much horsepower
Another cool score is the Mitsubishi bed mat
Removing the old graphic pinstripes from the door with a razor blade scraper
When I first got my truck the previous owner had cut holes in the door panels and installed speakers. Several years ago I had rewrapped the door panels in black vinyl and just left the speakers where they were. Unfortunately since the truck didnt come that way from the factory there was no flex joint in the door jamb for the speaker wires to go through. He had just drilled holes in the body and door, then had the wires running through them with no seals. Didnt look too great. The big problem I had with it that way is he put the speakers in the way of the door stop ( that metal plate that stops the door from swinging wide open until the hinges stop). So when I open the door it just swings wide open......usually right into the car next to me or some other door damaging object. This is not good.
I started messing with my kick panels to see if I could come up with some speaker pods. I already had fiberglass and bondo left over from another project as well as some mdf board so I figured "why not" Well it probably would have been much easier to just buy some already made. If in fact they exist to fit these trucks.
Fist I cut a hole in the plastic kick panel to mount the speaker. The depth of the speaker was too deep to let the speaker sit flush so I started to angle it out a bit. That way the speaker would face more towards the passengers anyway. I cut out some circles of mdf , screwed the speakers into them and then kinda set them in place. When I finally got the angle and placement( I set them in the truck a few times and stared at them) I screwed it down and used some two-part epoxy to kinda hold it in place.
Now for the passenger side I pretty much tried to mirror the driver side. However instead of using a totally round mdf mount I decided to square off the rear of it, thinking it would make an easier platform to lay out fiberglass. The whole time I kept thinking i was just gonna lay the resin and glass mat all over the plastic and then shape it up with bondo glass ( fiberglass reinforced body filler). Well I learned the hard way that
Fiberglass Does NOT stick to plastic! lol
It will lay out and harden up, but then u can peel it right off like a sticker. So I drilled some holes in several places and then glassed up the back side so that the resin went through the holes and stuck to the glass on the front side. This kinda sandwiched the plastic kick panel in between the mat on the front and back. It made it hold okay I guess but I wanted it to hold better. Google is my friend and after a search I found an alternative. Using plastic two-part epxoy in the syringe to lightly coat the plastic and then lay on some glass mat ( with no resin of course) and try not to let the epoxy soak all the way trhough the mat; just enough to get it to hold the mat to the plastic. Then when its all dry you are ready to apply the fiberglass resin.
Last edited by crvtec90; 06-15-2012 at 06:53 PM.
Removed the ugly topper to unveil the pretty bed.
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