Just heard back from Mitsubishi Parts Central. All switches are gone and obsolete. Ditto the multi switch.
Just heard back from Mitsubishi Parts Central. All switches are gone and obsolete. Ditto the multi switch.
I hooked someone up with an aftermarket switch not that long ago - they are around. The switch assemblies were used across a number of models so it might not necessarily be under D50/Ram50 etc.
If you remember where let me know please. All I find are the ones wired into one connector. Apparently they can be made to work but I am not very good with wiring without specific instructions.Originally Posted by geezer101
Member MAXDSM uses Aliexpress web site to buy new Mitsubishi L200 truck parts... Same as our trucks, Aliexpress is a Chinese version of our eBay 'n Amazon... A similar web site is WISH... You might find a new ignition switch check with Gary at MPC which vehicles used the same switch ( he might have a cross reference)
Happy Hunting
https://www.yoyopart.com/oem/1146139...y-2011159.html
Cross reference what vehicles use the same Mitsubishi MB 414579 ignition switch...
OK just spent an hour. Found two sites who listed one of those parts but they did not have it. Call first these folks out there are listing products they don't have to phish you for your saleable data.
the dodge Challenger switch that come sup is never for 78-80 the years in that link and looks wrong. aliexpress and Wish want you to join before they let you search. Ali will show you stuff but its not specific to your search.
Update.
I found an after market ign switch the Standard US118. It has an extra wire to the connector which doesn't matter. That two wire connector that was taped to it is a separate part of the switch, well it did not come with anyway. I got it for $15 shipped. ! folks on Hollander and car-parts.com priced it and shipping different but it always ended up at $60 or better shipped for a used one and they insisted on sending me the key lock even though several did not have the keys! I decided to spend on a brand new "Mopar" multi switch too. see pic
I learned that the headlights do not work with the steering wheel off.
I put them both in and it started no hesitation 4 times. I put all it back together. The picture of my instruments is what it does when the key is on and the head lights are on. At least this time the blinkers worked but that right indicator light stays lit and the left one glows dimly when the head lights are on.
Edit- Oh yea the radio wouldn't turn on. :/
Did some driving and when I shut it off it did not want to start. Tried 4 times no light on the dash nuttin. I squeezed the multi switch connector and it started. I can't say for certain that is why it started but I did not shut it off again til I got home. Knowing nothing about electrics, Something the key turns on in the engine bay seems to be the issue with starting. The rest of my long term electrical issues seem to be lack of enough power. That battery light is new which makes me wonder if the alt is not working properly or generating enough power. Does anyone have the exact diagram of how to wire a 90 amp alt?
More fun I have a radiator leak. Dam thing is only a few years old. I have no idea where. There is a drip spot under it. The bottom inside the cowl is wet and the fan is wet on the side that faces the motor?? but there is not water on the face of the motor or if I run my hand under the radiator.
Last edited by 85Ram50; 08-31-2020 at 04:59 PM.
Could the hose be punctured? I remember with my F150 I had a coolant leak. Bought a new rad and hoses, still leaked. My new hose had a big slit in it. Also check around the water pump, I've seen a 2.4 just randomly leak there
Thanks. The only wet spots are where i said. Hoses were dry as was the front of engine. Only spot dripping is off the fan cowl.
Check the radiator cap seal, then check that the fill neck isn't dented. Look around the top inlet pipe as the soldered join might have failed, then look under the edge of the top tank for a similar failure. If it's a perforated core, you normally can see a vent of steam or coolant seeping somewhere.
Thanks Geez. This is a "new" plastic marvel. I put it in when I blew the head a few years ago.
On another note That new overflow made a big difference, the drive I took then it stayed cool until I got home and let it idle for a bit. It drew up almost all of the contents of the overflow which was my first indicator I was losing coolant somewhere.
Ah, ok. Have a look up at where the top of the cores butt up against the tank support for any signs of green sludge as an indicator that a core has let go. The top tank seal might have a breach in it. If you find it's leaking from the top tank seal, get a pair of locking jaw pliers and gently go around the tank 'claws' and squeeze them down. I've had new radiators leak from not having the claws closed sufficiently (and some not even closed at all...) I don't like the plastic/alloy radiators. The top tanks are prone to failure but that is only if you don't monitor the coolant levels and the quality is hit and miss on aftermarket units
I haven't done anything to it. Its been sitting and leaking, stopping, then leaking again. You are probably right Geez. I've been doing other stuff. More other stuff to go tomorrow. I should be able to get back to it next week.
9-15-20- The leak is in the top corner, inside driver side. I squeezed it with some small pump pliers. Still a puddle under it. I have the cowl off. I am going to do a engine flush when I get the Alt going and after that replace the freeze plugs I can get to easily and the plastic with an all aluminum rad.
Last edited by 85Ram50; 09-15-2020 at 03:59 PM.
Got a new all aluminum radiator. I am going to flush the system hoping to clean out the gunk and make the heater hotter then I will replace it.
The leak from the top corner of the radiator got worse and when the sun was on it, it leaked more.
Damn, that's no good. I really don't like the plastic tanked radiators. It's like they're engineered to fail...
Yea I think climbing om top to work on the starter bolt had something to do with it failing. I drained the radiator. I took off the thermostat housing cleaned it up and took out the thermostat so I can aggressively flush it. Got that side bolt loosened the gauge mount bolt. Cleaned the rust off the mount bolts and used copper anti seize on them. Have you got any idea how to search for a water temp gauge to screw in to that thermostat housing? I think it is 1/8" NPT
I drove around with some flush in it but it never got very hot even with the cowl off. So I came home and put a paper bag in front of the rad and it heated up. The heat wasn't getting better, my main goal, so I tried moving the lever to open and close the heater valve. Then I revved it with it closed and opened it and the air got hotter. I have left it sitting and will empty it and flush it again tomorrow. I've still got the oil flush in there I started before it got decommissioned. I added some oil today just in case.
The first flush was Zerex. I drained it this morning. then I put about half of a gallon of distilled water I had dissolved a pound of TSP in. Filled it with water and got it warmed up. The heater control had come off the valve. I reconnected it and left the cover off of the lever valve connection. Heat got really hot. YEA! the whole point of the TSP flush. Went and did my errands, got T boned see other post in fab thread, came home and after my body calmed down enough I made myself go out and finish the flush. It took quite a bit of flushing and i figured out a way of doing it. The motor running I'd fill it rev it and then pull off the bottom hose and let the radiator drain out it back on (no clamp) over and over and over until after revving there were no suds in the water streaming by the top. Then I took the radiator out and put the thermostat back in with a new gasket. Install new rad tomorrow.
Edit-10-1-20 Turns out I cracked the housing when I put the thermostat back in. New one on order due in tomorrow afternoon.
Last edited by 85Ram50; 10-01-2020 at 11:24 AM.
OK I got the new thermostat housing on and filled it. It did not take 9.5 quarts as the owners manual says. It took about 6 The gallon I drained into a bucket and half of a new one. with the thermostat open. Top hose was very hot and the heater was too. ???Maybe I read the owners manual wrong. I filled the overflow with new fluid to the line. I assume it will go down if the motor wants to take up more.
Fan question, When I was flushing it I hit the fan with my thumb a few times and stopped it once. Today when I was letting it warm up the fan was barely spinning and the belt is tight. Is that normal? It eventually started to spin I am assuming the clutch in it operates on heat from the motor. I have never seen that fan not spin before.
It uses a friction coupling that relies on heat so there should be times when it isn't spinning. CHUCK IT and install an electric thermo fan. The clutch fan is a piece of neanderthal tech, although it is mechanically reliable is really inefficient (stinking hot day, stuck at the lights and only pulling air at idle speed - not good...)
Good to know. What fan do you have? did it come with a thermostat? Where did the thermostat mount?
#1 - generic slimline push/pull fan (came with a less that adequate wiring harness but it had a relay) IIRC it's a 10" but I have it paired with another 10" for the A/C.
#2 - no thermostat or install kit was with it.
#3 - I had a radiator repair shop solder in a sender bung in the bottom tank (brass and copper radiator for a Gen 1 - well, it was out of an early van which required more modifications to make it work for the truck...)
I would install an in hose sender adapter in the bottom return hose as they are easy to set up and are cheap. The bottom hose (or radiator tank) is the best place as the fan will shut off once coolant temperatures have dropped to ideal conditions. I've added aluminium extrusions for the fan mounts as I don't like the surface mount zip-tie things that come with a lot of aftermarket fan kits.
I have less than helpful links to my thread here - http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ll=1#post70328
I really need to find time to get back onto the truck
Well I installed the LILAND GLOBAL 700AA all aluminum radiator and the fan shroud. The shroud rubs on the lower hose but everything bolted up as the original and plastic replacement did. I am going to drive it to the tire shop today and maybe go run around in the hills and do some highway miles to see how it acts. I'm just real happy it has real heat for the first time since I owned it!
I'll have to search for fans and find out how to use a relay.
Edit- Maybe I should say the shroud presses against the lower hose. I'm not sure how it might rub unless the shroud comes loose.
Edit2- I filled the gas tank up and put 40 highway miles on it. the arrow stayed below half at 65mph and went vertical at 70. When I opened the hood this morning the overflow liquid had been drawn up into the motor. I over filled it thinking it might need more. The level has not changed yet.
Last edited by 85Ram50; 10-04-2020 at 07:29 AM.
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks