Sight unseen

[fullchoke]

Hello, just joined this site. I have looked at a few Dodge D-50 trucks, that were for sale online as surplus over the years and this last week I bought one.... for better or worse. I don't know what I'm in for because I bought it online by the pictures. I have collected military vehicles and this 1987 Ram 50 is a USAF original. It was picked up by the National Park Service when the USAF was done with it and that is where I got it. I actually haven't got it or even seen it in person yet. It was listed as not drivable, so I'm planning on trailering it home. Anybody here have one of these little dark blue pickups? I have seen them up for auction every now and then, but don't know much about them or how many the air force bought or how they may be different from any other 1987 2wd model. I hope it doesn't take much to get it going, but I might need some help.
Thanks,
Greg

[tortron]

ahh i think someone posted that one up here if it was for sale recently, blue with what looked like sun damaged paint?

From what i have seen of ex military trucks it will more or less be a base model interior with certain thing optioned out (no cigarette lighter for example)
might have some holes drilled in the dash and exterior to accommodate radios, antennas and lights

otherwise it will be the same as any other civilian one



The army utes over here get a hard life from the drivers, but because the tax payer is footing the bill, nothing is repaired, it is replaced. Noisy gearbox? just put a new one in etc

[fullchoke]

It probably is the one you are talking about. It closed on the 13th. It has peeling paint or clear coat. It also said it has a stuck odometer, because they said it had to have rolled over 100k, but I think it may not have. I haven't heard of an odometer doing that. Stop working yes, but not 1 digit stop working. But who knows. I'm not too nervous about it cause the price wasn't too bad.
My experience with surplus gov't equipment that was free to them from the military, is they don't repair. They just get another free one, or cannibalize it for parts if they do repairs.

[xboxrox]

Hello fullchoke, congrats on winning the bidding on your new truck! I posted it for sale in the shout box -- tortron sums it up well as probably a base model & they just painted it USAF blue -- check out my photo album "truck from Barstow" a NAVY owned truck sold at govt auction --
Aloha -- George

EDIT: I bought sight unseen like you did & came from Hawaii to California to get the truck

[fullchoke]

I looked at your photos....nice truck and 4x4 to boot! Mine is only 2wd, but I'm ok with that as I hope the MPG is good. Will these trucks cruise at 65-70mph? The one I bought is supposed to have the 2.6L with auto.
Thanks

[xboxrox]

I looked at your photos....nice truck and 4x4 to boot! Mine is only 2wd, but I'm ok with that as I hope the MPG is good. Will these trucks cruise at 65-70mph? The one I bought is supposed to have the 2.6L with auto.
Thanks

I just looked at your trucks auction photos again too -- you have a nice truck as well ~ I noticed the hood release latch is hanging down & a not too bad dent FR fender ~ otherwise a solid looking rust free canvas for you the artist ! Should be ok @ 60 mph 65 to 70 not as quiet but it can do it ~ my MPG mostly 20 mpg maybe 22 at best ~ 4x2 better on gas I bet ~
Have fun & get it home safely

EDIT: Radio Delete truck ~ no antenna & has DIN radio block off plate ~ !?!

[fullchoke]

I found out a bit more about it today. It was used in an area that was inaccessible and had to be barged out, it was captive by only a few miles of road. Plus only used during the summer. Battery sounded bad. It doesn't sound like it could have the miles listed. The Odometer may be right after all. Fingers are crossed.

[fullchoke]

Went and got the truck yesterday. I think the roads it was on were mostly dirt. It is very dusty, but not rusty. Has some bondo repairs on the outside bed sides and tailgate, but the bed itself looks pretty much unused. It started with a jump and drove up on the trailer.
Do these trucks have any problems that I should look for? My son said the engine moved a lot when it initially started and until the idle smoothed out. I will check the motor mounts 1st.
The window cranks are missing the handle. Any easy solution to this? The seat seems comfortable in the short time I was in it. I had a Ford Courier that was a back breaker, but you find that out after a little ride.
And the little air deflector under the front bumper is flimsy and quite mangled.

Thanks

[tortron]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/WINDOW-CRAN...QAAOSwg3tar1G9


window cranks available new out of Thailand


Generally you just want to get up to date on the maintenance if needed. All mitsis had an issue with the heads going soft/cracking, but you dont need to worry about that till it becomes a problem

[fullchoke]

I have asked for the maintenance records, but I'll be changing oil and filter and lubing the chassis anyway. I asked a guy I have known for many years that has a 1993 Toyota he bought new. It has 468k now and still on the same engine and no rebuild, but he changes the oil every 2k.

[tortron]

Yeah, i havd a 1948 commer superpoise on its original engine, original chrome bores. It never had an oil filter, but came with a stack of records for decades of work.

[fullchoke]

The problem that I don't have to worry about until it becomes a problem is a problem before I have even taken the truck off the trailer.
When we loaded the truck my son said it made a lot of white smoke. I thought it was only condensation he was seeing. It was raining at the time and we didn't go any further. Now that it is home. I changed the oil which was a light milky muddy brown... not a good sign. So these engines have cracked head problems? If that is what is expected then I shouldn't figure on a head gasket solution. Please fill me in on this, especially if the head is repairable or not. I'm going to need to figure out where it will need to be parked and if I should start on the repair before I have what is needed to complete it. I have no idea right now what is available. It is supposed to be a G54b engine.
Thanks

[tortron]

its entirely possible that the oil has moisture in it from lots of short runs, never getting the engine warm enough to boil off the condensation inside.

What you should do is - check for oil in the cooling system
compression check
if possible - a leak down test and cooling system pressure test

depending on the results of those
- engine is fine, its just condensation from short runs (on an island right, i wonder if they would turn it off each time, or leave it at idle for hours, probably turning it on and off if petrol)

- engine is not fine
- pull head off and inspect the head gasket. Send head for crack and hardness testing before rebuilding it
might come back ok, might come back no good, hard to say

[fullchoke]

When I saw the white film on the engine oil that was drained I hoped it was from condensation, because I was told it was not started much and not at all in the last month. Smelling the smoke it has a bitter odor, it is not condensation. The cloud is very slow to dissipate, not like condensation coming from the tailpipe. Is it advisable to just buy a new head? I don't how true it is but online says they crack because of the jet valve. Non jet valve heads are available on ebay. My thoughts are to get everything in hand before I start. There is definitely a problem. I checked the coolant level and it was out of sight, another bad sign.
Thanks

[fullchoke]

Forgot to add it misses badly when 1st started but pulls out of that shortly after that and runs smooth. Especially smooth when reved some.

[xboxrox]

Troubleshooting to identify problems 1st before $pending unecessarily is time well $pent -- I' m thinking warm engine to full operating temp then change engine oil (cheap oil) & oil filter -- next with cold engine drain coolant & install new thermostat (OEM Mitsubishi stat is available) refill with premixed 50/50 coolant -- now tests can be accurately performed -- rent this for free ---> http://https://www.oreillyauto.com/d.../67094/4700290


Test for leaking head gasket /cracked head: http://https://youtu.be/QA7KVQq9vKA

If engine misses too much to run or reach operating temp then you need to remove all spark plugs & check each one for spark -- I used a remote starter switch with ignition key ON -- getting the battery fully charged and load tested for free @ OReillys is what I did (batt acts ok even tho OReillys said it failed the load test -- they said maybe it had a weak cell!!!) Battery so far works good -- need a fully charged battery to properly test for spark ORANGE color spark works ok on my truck -- I chased the head's spark plug threads with a 14mm thread chaser coated with anti seize compound -- then I cleaned the head's threads & used antiseize to install new spark plugs --

My truck had white smoke when 1st purchased a bottle of Barrs Stop Leak fixed it !!!!

$pend Less & Enjoy Wrenching & your new TOY

[xboxrox]

The rubber diaphragms, O rings etc are 30+ years OLD on your truck's carburetor (most likely original carb on the eng???) It will not run smoothly or like new with rotten cracked broken split screwed up deteriorated carburetor parts --

EDIT: Don't trust the gasoline in the fuel tank to be fresh clean dry -- drain it or burn it up driving & put fresh gas new fuel filter too --

USE THIS IT REALLY HELPS https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...120007/5587420

[fullchoke]

The links didn't work, so I don't know what you had in mind. I will try the stop leak, I like that idea, can't hurt. The radiator does hold pressure for hours or more, and was down about a quart. I did change the oll and filter. I never got the truck to full operating temp. It did get to the low side of the normal range. I filled the gas tank on my way home, it took 5.5 gallons. How big is the tank? What would happen if diesel was put in instead of gas? I don't think that happened. I'm in Oregon so we don't pump our own. My pickup is diesel... I told the attendant to fill the Ram 50 with reg. gas and he said he did. Which brings the question what would happen if 5.5 gal diesel is mixed to make a full tank?

[xboxrox]

It would not run with that much diesel I did'nt like buying gas in Oregon

I sound bossy on paper but in real life I am a Saint so here is my best advice for getting your truck running with safety, economy & dependaility in mind (assuming your truck is not California emissions..?)

1) Dump the old gas, install a new fuel filter & add no more than 1/4 tank of 87 octane gas
2) Charge & load test the battery (free @ O'Reilly's)
3) Change the engine oil & install new oil filter ( done, good job sir...)
4) Dump the old coolant, install new thermostat (Mitsubishi brand is best) install new premixed 50/50 coolant
EDIT: Flush cooling system with flush product as well & use only premade coolant, don't use regular water
5) Install 4 new NGK spark plugs (compression tester is free @ O'Reilly's) test fire each new plug on it's wire, remove all crud from head thread holes & use anti seize (a remote starter switch with ingition key ON = easy job)
6) Use combustion leak tester (free @ O'Reilly's) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v0U8Iyf0kk4
7) Easy Fix of leaking head gasket https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YL9QjN7AcW8
8) I think my brother used Barrs Leaks best product when he did step 7 above, about $12..?
9) My truck came with Hercules Terra Trac A/T tires (THE BEST TIRE I EVER DROVE ON, PERIOD..!!!)
10) Buy a new set of tires with the money you saved by not buying a new cylinder head..?
11) Hercules tires are not sold in Hawaii (DANG IT) my truck lost 2MPG & rides rough & noisy on BF Goodrich tires
12) Tire Comparison Calculator https://tiresize.com/comparison/
13) Terra Trac II A/T tires are available in 215/70-16 my truck came with 205/75-15..? Heck I can't remember..?
14) THE BEST TIRE IMHO https://www.herculestire.com/tire-de...rra-Trac-AT-II

I'm too tired to continue ~ best of luck & have fun fixing your neat truck ~ it should run 65MPH & get 20+MPG
Aloha --
George

[xboxrox]

1 bottle CATACLEAN added to 1/4 full gas tank & drive it on the freeway 35 miles or until empty -- it will help A LOT -- drain out the old gas & take it to a waste disposal station & install a new fuel filter --


CHECK THIS OUT ~ https://jalopnik.com/here-s-exactly-...d-t-1795160777

[fullchoke]

Thanks guys for the pointers. I wish I knew how big the gas tank is, because the 5.5 gal. of fresh gas that was put in it should have freshened up what was in there.The gas that was in there should be less than 3mo.'s old and with the new gas it should be good enough.
The truck had new tires put on it in July so it is good there. I don't think they would have done that if they intended on disposing of it, so I think it was used for a while after that. The truck was in a dry climate, and only used in the summer on top of that so there is no rust.
I watched the You tube videos and I will try that process. I'm not sure the truck will run on 3 cyl for hours but will see. That is if I can determine which cylinder is leaking.
I always buy the concentrate anti-freeze, because I'm cheap. Distilled water is pennies per gal and I don't mind mixing. I just pour it in and let the engine do the mixing.

Thanks again,
Greg

[fullchoke]

I pulled out the spark plugs to see if I could tell, which cyl. might be leaking. #1 & 3 looked to be burning the best. Light brown and no deposits. #2 was noticeably whiter and #4 was quite a bit darker on the insulator.
Since nothing was conclusive I cranked it to see if anything came out with all the plugs out....nothing.
I used a compression tester and these are the readings. The low reading on each cylinder is:
#1-145
#2-140
#3-120
#4-155
The odd thing is the spark plug in #3 looks the best, but being it is the lowest compression. I will try to treat that cylinder. I don't know how old these spark plugs are.
I'm going to put in new antifreeze and Steel Seal (if I can find it) and follow the online suggestions.
Any ideas please let me know.
Thanks

[FMS88]

The tank on as 2wd short bed truck is just under 14 gal. The long bed and extended cab trucks have 18gal tanks.
It does sound like coolant is leaking into one or more cylinders. Try this: run it long enough to pressurized the cooling system (10-15 min) and it smooths out. Let it sit overnight then start it for just a few seconds. Remove the spark plugs and look for ones that are very wet. If not sure or more than one is wet, position a piece of cardboard over all four plug holes. Turn it over a number of revolutions then check the cardboard for fluid ejected from the cylinder(s). This test worked for me revealing #4 had a coolant leak.
If you find coolant is leaking into a cylinder and you need to run the engine or drive it, loosen the radiator cap after each shutdown. This will relieve the cooling system pressure and reduce the amount of coolant that will seep into the cylinder. Just use a towel over the cap so it catches anything that sprays out rather than on you.
Good luck

[xboxrox]

I pulled out the spark plugs to see if I could tell, which cyl. might be leaking. #1 & 3 looked to be burning the best. Light brown and no deposits. #2 was noticeably whiter and #4 was quite a bit darker on the insulator.
Since nothing was conclusive I cranked it to see if anything came out with all the plugs out....nothing.
I used a compression tester and these are the readings. The low reading on each cylinder is:
#1-145
#2-140
#3-120
#4-155
The odd thing is the spark plug in #3 looks the best, but being it is the lowest compression. I will try to treat that cylinder. I don't know how old these spark plugs are.
I'm going to put in new antifreeze and Steel Seal (if I can find it) and follow the online suggestions.
Any ideas please let me know.
Thanks

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDuGeQnMOzk <----- DO IT

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/he...ket-blown-test <----- DO IT


OK, you asked for it LOL I wished I had a NDT liquid penetrant test kit (cleaner dye developer) to check the head for cracks -------

Maybe O'Reilly's rents this tool for fully refundable deposit (did you really do this test as tortron suggested..?)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDuGeQnMOzk

DO THESE LINK STEPS FOR SURE (free tools @ O'Reilly's) THEY SAY "BLUE DEVIL" is the possible best fix @ AMAZON
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/he...ket-blown-test

So, a spark plug that shows heavy whitish to brown deposits may indicate a coolant leak. This type of problem will only get worse and lead to even greater problems if the leak isn't fixed. Coolant makes a lousy lubricant and can cause piston ring; cylinder and bearing damage if it gets into a cylinder or the crankcase.

If you have an oil leak, it will be oil fouled. If it is a coolant leak (more likely) your spark plug will be very clean. The coolant literally boils off any dirt and deposits off the spark plug, valves, and piston.

Yes to the above about coolant leaks. A cyl that has had coolant run through it will often have a very clean piston top, the others will be black/sooty in color and have carbon deposits on them.

From Dodge Forum: https://www.turbododge.com/threads/r...-guide.624186/ <---- PLEASE LOOK AT THE SPARK PLUG PHOTOS

My 1986 Ram50 Owners Manual Booklet (specifications page) says 2.0L engine fuel tank 14 gallons & 18 gallon is optional AND 2.6L engine fuel tank 18 gallons... Do 2nd Gen trucks have completely different fuel tanks I dunno..?

Please (for all of us trying to help here) try using a coolant leak fix product before yanking the head & buying parts ~ that way, if it fixes it good enuff, you can thank all of us here (ALSO PLEASE follow the directions on the label to the letter I.O.W. VERBATIM COMPLIANCE) That means if the stop leak product says "for best results" drain old coolant & flush the system & refill with new 50/50 premix and drive 30 miles at 60MPH or faster THEN DO IT..!)

Did ya think to squirt oil in the cylinders on 2nd round of compression testing..? I did not think, I just used a can of fogging oil spray on the one round of compression testing that I did and my results are posted here somewhere at MR50 ~ I never tested without using oil, duh..! I think my results 3 cylinders @ 165PSI and 1 @ 135 or 145PSI

I'm thinking that UNLESS your truck has an obvious gross coolant, oil, engine, transmission, differential or other type of leak OR A BRAKE leak or brake problem or loud as heck knocking sounds THEN it needs to be outfitted with good fuel & new fuel filter & good engine oil & new filter & new air filters 2each & new good coolant & a flushed clean cooling system & new spark plugs that test fired sat on their respective plug wires & ignition initial, vacuum, centrifical advances all tested & adjusted... THEN WHAT YOUR TRUCK NEEDS IS TO BE STARTED WARMED UP (PER THE STOP LEAK PRODUCT INSTRUCTIONS) AND TAKEN OUT ON THE FREEWAY TO A SPEED THAT GETS THE CARBURETOR OUT OF THE IDLE CIRCUIT (The main metering circuit comes into action above fast idle, as airflow through the venturi increases)

Ya gotta get your truck on a good run with engine RPM above 2,000 or more RPM for a good long cruise (25 miles..? at least..?) Try finding an uphill grade and gun it in whatever gear keeps RPM above 2,000 RPM ~ hopefully you also have new fuel with no more than 1/4 tank and you added a bottle or TWO bottles of CATACLEAN (available @ O'Reilly's) then I think your truck has a good fighting chance of not needing major repairs ~ all you can do is try, right..?

Hope you have major success to report & we love photos
P.S. Keep an eagle eye on the gauges ~ they work, right..?
P.P.S. I did one thing different when I took my truck out on the freeway ~ I added 1 qt of Rislone (?) to flush the engine oil to fix noisy tappets and it worked it fixed them ~ then I changed the oil & filter right after the drive...
P.P.P.S. you really should really really should REALLY SHOULD have a new thermostat in your truck right after you flush the cooling system..! YEAH REALLY

[fullchoke]

I'm going to use K-Seal. It is a Napa product. I looked for Steel Seal, but I think I would need to order it through the mail. The directions call for driving it if possible, and idle it for a half hour if not. Since this is a former Gov't vehicle and has no license plate, I will try the idling it routine. The directions don't call for removing the suspected cylinder's spark plug. Only adding product and running it. For all I know more than 1 cylinder is leaking, because 2 plugs looked cleaner than expected. I did drain the coolant and bought a new thermostat. So I plan on leaving the K-Seal in there long term, if it works.
Thanks