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Thread: Not The First Time

  1. #101

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    ^^^ I am using a tall Weber style rectangular open element filter. It has plenty of flow capacity.

    Screwing with small block Chevys/Fords/Mopars over the years, I've found that open plenum intakes are better in the higher RPM range, where a split plenum is better for lower to mid range performance.
    This usually doesn't apply to 4 bangers since the intake pulses are completely different.
    Since the Weber 38/38 has sequential opening venturis, it may work better with an open plenum (?)

    I have several Weber side draft carbs, 40s and 45s... There is a guy who sells the intake flange for these engines. It would be pretty easy to fab a dual Weber side draft intake. I have access to a TIG that will weld aluminum.
    We'll see.
    My job changes so rapidly, that I don't have much time to do custom projects like that.
    Most of the time I work in parking lots and rent storage space on the road.

  2. #102

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    Yeah having somewhere enclosed where you can wrench makes a big difference. The air flow capacity of an open element filter is good but the carb drawing in hot air from the engine bay isn't. If you cut the bridge out from the middle of the intake, then add an enclosed air box with a longer intake tract you will reclaim some torque. Funny that you mentioned side draft Webers - last night I was trawling through some of the old threads on carb options and quad rack bike cabs have been suggested. Cheaper than a pair of DCOE's, take up a lot less room and perform better.

  3. #103

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    Here's a pic of the wiring I had to do to make this POS work.
    As I may have mentioned before, I had to use a multi meter to back track all of the wires and re-pin the plug so it would work.
    This radio is so primitive that the speakers don't ground independently... they ground by the radio chassis.
    I even had to find the illumination wires - they run the internal light only when the headlights are turned on AND the light bulb has its own ground wire! It's separate from the rest of the grounds. FTW.
    Anyway, the radio was acting stupid. I finally figured out that the radio chassis also needed its OWN ground.
    Attached Images

  4. #104

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    Yeah having somewhere enclosed where you can wrench makes a big difference. The air flow capacity of an open element filter is good but the carb drawing in hot air from the engine bay isn't. If you cut the bridge out from the middle of the intake, then add an enclosed air box with a longer intake tract you will reclaim some torque. Funny that you mentioned side draft Webers - last night I was trawling through some of the old threads on carb options and quad rack bike cabs have been suggested. Cheaper than a pair of DCOE's, take up a lot less room and perform better.
    Damn... I should have thought of the bike carbs. I have several sets of Kawasaki and Suzuki carbs from past projects. It would be pretty ez to build an intake manifold for those since I can mount them independently of each other. Only problem - the ones I have come from a 1000 CC engine. Probably too small for a 2 liter.
    I know 2 stroke carbs are different than 4 strokes, they have different idle and full throttle requirements.
    Maybe I can use (4) 500 CC single cylinder cabs. They are huge.
    Thanks for the idea Geezer

  5. #105

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    The bike carbs will run on a 4 cylinder engine. Might need to go up a main jet, but a set for a 900cc engine will have throats and butterflies that will work with the intake ports on the head (38/39mm?) Basically use the same size main jet that is in the existing carb and it'll be in the ball park. I have posted about a member from an old forum that used bike carbs on a 2.6 and they worked very well. I've looked at Kawasaki ZXR 750-1000 carbs, Suzuki GSX-R carbs and Honda CBR 600-1000 carbs. Individually spaced carbs would be good for the Astron engine. Paired carbs would be easier to set up on a Sirius (belt drive) engine as the intake ports are paired and I could cheat by cutting up the intake off a 4G64 EFI'ed engine.
    Last edited by geezer101; 05-26-2021 at 01:22 AM.

  6. #106


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    NEAT WORK ON THE RADIO ~ you got talent my friend !!
    Last edited by xboxrox; 05-26-2021 at 02:53 AM.

  7. #107

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    ^^^ Thanks for the props Box!
    I'm not really that talented, just know what to look for and where to look.

    Think of it this way: if you are interested enough, you could be a brain surgeon.
    All it takes is ambition...

  8. #108

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    I'm playing hooky from work tomorrow.
    The local (sort of) Pick n Pull has a 50% sale this weekend, and if you're a member of their club, they are giving you a shot at the parts area before the crowd arrives at the weekend.
    I signed up a while ago.
    Half price front brake upgrade, complete A/C conversion, and I saw a Weber 38/38 on a Mazda. I'll grab that if it's still there.

    I'll finally be able to assemble the dashboard and have the correct A/C fascia installed.

    When does it stop?

  9. #109


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    Hi hero ~ man
    If you happen to trip over a decent pair [or just one] of front 4X4 hub caps 1986 variety painted not chrome ~ you will get a profit from me AND one interior door way plastic clip for the lower front corner at the end of the trim webbing
    Respectfully George

    Did I forget to mention a profit can be made for a 1985 or 1986 OEM MIKUNI carburetor too :^)
    Last edited by xboxrox; 05-27-2021 at 12:38 AM.

  10. #110

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    Quote Originally Posted by boozehero View Post
    I'm playing hooky from work tomorrow.
    The local (sort of) Pick n Pull has a 50% sale this weekend, and if you're a member of their club, they are giving you a shot at the parts area before the crowd arrives at the weekend.
    I signed up a while ago.
    Half price front brake upgrade, complete A/C conversion, and I saw a Weber 38/38 on a Mazda. I'll grab that if it's still there.

    I'll finally be able to assemble the dashboard and have the correct A/C fascia installed.

    When does it stop?

    Answer - it doesn't. Wait til you have to pull apart your heater/blower and clean out the case and the heater core so you can attach the evap unit to it and have air that doesn't smell like damp dog coming out if it. And 50% off is a noble cause for a day off

  11. #111

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    Quote Originally Posted by geezer101 View Post
    Answer - it doesn't. Wait til you have to pull apart your heater/blower and clean out the case and the heater core so you can attach the evap unit to it and have air that doesn't smell like damp dog coming out if it. And 50% off is a noble cause for a day off
    Def not looking forward to being folded like a pretzel under that truck dash...

  12. #112

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    Actually, this job isn't that bad. The worst part is disconnecting the heater hoses (and sourcing replacement ones ) IIRC I used a heater hose from an '88 Nissan Pulsar and cut off the long end to make the upper chicane hose. No luck in finding OEM heater hoses for a Gen1. Hope you took the big joiner clamp that goes between the evap and the side of the heater case!

  13. #113

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    Xbox - There are 2 first gens at the yard. One is an 83, the other is an 86. Both are 2x4, and the interiors are wasted. No door panels, bombed seat etc.The only possibility is the 86 that has a 2.0 in it, but it does have a complete Mikuni with enough electrical connections to call it "Fuel Injection"...
    It is pretty crppy looking, but it may be able to have a good cleaning and a second chance at life.
    Why you want a problematic Mikuni over a Weber is beyond me. If you think the 2.0 carb will work on a 2.6, I can grab it for you. I have to go back to the Upull this weekend. I didn't have the correct wrenches to pull the passenger side disc assembly from the 94.
    I'll check this thread a bunch of times for your response.

  14. #114


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    hero ~ thanx a bunch but wait on yanking the carb ~ am not sure if the 2.0 & 2.6 carb are same or not ?

  15. #115

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    Maybe check Rock Auto for interchange? They are usually accurate

  16. #116

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    Be 100% sure it's the same carb. There are so many variants of the 32-35 DIDT carb you could easily get the wrong carb (OK if you are going to build a frankenstein out of parts...) The jetting will be different between the 2.0 and 2.6 carbs.

  17. #117

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    ^^^ I figured as much. That is why I didn't grab it. The bolt pattern is the same, but there are so many electrical connections that it could have several different functions than another mid year truck. There is a computer box on the upper passenger kick panel too. I was almost intimate with the box when I removed the evaporator box inside the truck...

  18. #118


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    Good Job & THANKS again hero ~ I just phoned Alan at Carburetion Technologies in Seattle ~ he said it's not the same https://www.carbtech.us/
    Thanks for watching my back too geezer - man
    Last edited by xboxrox; 05-28-2021 at 09:03 PM.

  19. #119

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    You can swap carbs with the matching manifold but the ECM is the tricky part. Not something you want to mess with if you haven't touched them before... bad enough just rebuilding the carb

  20. #120

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    bike carbs on 2.6. Interesting info in the comments also
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFunG5Ku-fI

  21. #121

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    ^Superscans' build. He was a member on Sigma-Galant.com back in the day and this is the set up I've been referring to. It looks rough, but it works well. He has a video of road testing and it pulls like a train

  22. #122

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    Today I went to the upull yard again. I grabbed the right side disc brake assembly. Bagged the left side on Thursday, along with most of the A/C assembly. The truck that was the donor had a later Sirius 2.0, mine has the Astron 2.0, so the compressor brackets are different.
    I have a feeling that I'm going to be looking for a while - for the correct brackets and compressor. I think that the alternator was also relocated to the other side of the block. If anyone has a picture of the A/C assembly on a 2.6 or 2.0, please post or PM me.

    I will be installing the newer disc brake assemblies tomorrow, with new lower ball joints. I don't think that the newer assemblies are going o make a difference, even though the caliper is in a different location, and the rotor is vented. They look to be the same size rotor, only the newer style is vented, and the caliper is in a different location but it is still a single piston caliper. What do you think? Maybe a waste of time and pesos?

    So, after all of this BS, I may finally have a start to A/C. I am going to try and install the evaporator unit under the dash and the A/C dash panel. That will complete the interior. I'm debating whether to replace the expansion valve just to be safe. It's a PIA to change once the system is in place, plus you have to vacuum the system. Again.

  23. #123

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    It's worth upgrading the brakes. The calipers are a newer design, the vented rotors have better heat dissipation and you will actually be able to get replacement parts for it if you need something new off the shelf. If you've ever run solid rotors hot before, you will know how much it sucks to have the pedal feel like a sponge. You will need the compressor + mount off a 2.6 as they are the same block design (it's usually harder to find the bottom drive pulley, compressor and mount for the G63B than the 2.6)

  24. #124


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    boozehero ~ if you make more yard visits I'll pay for your labor parts & shipping for one interior door trim piece ~ not sure the part name but it holds down the end of the plastic rubber trim around the door opening ~ am needing the front lower corner piece

  25. #125

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    Quote Originally Posted by xboxrox View Post
    boozehero ~ if you make more yard visits I'll pay for your labor parts & shipping for one interior door trim piece ~ not sure the part name but it holds down the end of the plastic rubber trim around the door opening ~ am needing the front lower corner piece
    Can you send a pic of the location on the panel? Usually when I arrive at a yard, the interiors are stripped or bombed.
    People tear the interiors apart with no consideration for the next guy. Aholes.

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