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More...
I have been keeping track of fuel consumption.
When I first bought this rig, it was getting consistent 16MPG. The exhaust system was so small, it might as well have been welded shut
The carb was also JUNK. The jet valves were leaking oil into the cylinders and the timing was retarded.
New headers, large exhaust, rest timing and replaced the carb with a Weber 38/38. Also eliminated the jet valves.
The last three times I've filled the truck with fuel, it has been getting 20 to 21 MPG. No oil consumption at all. It does puff a small cloud once in a while, but nothing like it did when I first bought it.
I may have mentioned that I found an 86 Mighty Max with A/C. I removed everything but the compressor. Mistake. The engine in the truck was the twin exhaust port 2.0 where mine is the Astron 2.0 even port. I installed the evaporator inside the truck, as well as the dash fascia, (it has the A/C control printings on the front) and went to install the condenser.
Well... no cigar.
Apparently, the radiator support is different from 79 to 86. I had to cut the top condenser mounts off, then cut the bottom mounts off and re-position them so the condenser sits lower on the mounts. I'm still in the middle of that. I hope to have the install completed today and re-install the grille.
The truck looks like and old skool hockey player missing front teeth...
I haven't figured out what I'm going to do for the compressor mounts. I'll buy a new compressor, and looking on eBay and Rock Auto, they are about $225.
Some ahole on ebay wants $250 for a ratty looking used one. Imbecile!
Anyway, if anyone reading this has the compressor mounts and the idler pulley assemblies, please PM me.
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Yeah the radiators and condensers are different between Gen 1 and Gen 2. Core support is smaller in the Gen 1. The compressor mount off a 2.6 'should' fit (?). I used a condenser off ebay but it was a little on the generous side. I had to trim out the top condenser frame to get it to squeeze in. Pics of the original condenser my truck came with vs the aftermarket unit (following post has references to the condenser I've used and a smaller alternative part#) Prices were reasonable and I've opted for more efficient thermofans compared to the puny desk fan that it had installed. Easy enough to make brackets to install everything
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I've been considering an aftermarket condenser, but I did manage to fit the stock one in the opening.
I may also go for an aluminum radiator, although the factory unit works very well. More of an appearance thing than a functional issue.
If it wasn't so time consuming to post pix on this forum. I would be plastering this thread with photos. As it is, I have to download them from my camera, onto my computer then resize them so I can post them. Not much fun at all. And - trying to attach them from a photo sharing site... uh, no.
My biggest problem (now) is finding the compressor mounts and idler pulley/adjustment assembly. It was mentioned that the 2.6 mounts would work, and there is a block mount on eBay for $55 that is from a Starion. If it doesn't fit, bye bye 55.
I thought of some of the Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth 2.6s in mini vans or cars, maybe that will work too.
Anyway, it is a total PIA finding parts for these rigs.
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have you checked starquestclub ?
big clear photos of AC compressor mounted
Quite a few folks yank off all their AC equipment. Just saw a thread somewhere
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Thanks for the note Dash.
I don't follow a lot of Diamond Star forums, but will def check it out.
I wish I could find someone who is dumping their A/C.
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Now it's all back together it looks awesome What are you using for the A/C condenser fan? And I would use an electric thermofan instead of the pump driven clutch fan. The A/C does cause a restriction, but the mechanically driven fan was kinda crap from the get go. I think the electric radiator fan should fix the issue. And with the big, clunky clutch fan gone it will de-govern the engine and you'll gain throttle response.
Everything is a pain in LHD trucks. A/C hoses have to take a long route, the clutch and throttle cables are looping back at themselves, the brake booster and master cylinder are packed up against the intake...
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I have used Ford (US) Taurus fans on some of my projects. They are like tornadoes and pull some serious air. Ebay fans (for the most parts) are rubbish. Only problem with the Taurus fans -- they draw HUGE amperage. The first time I installed one, I smoked 2 circuit breakers and some light gauge wiring. I learned the hard way I guess.
I will chase down one of those fans and will also source a large alloy radiator from a big block Mustang.
I'll also install a thermo sensor and 40 amp relay with at least 12 gauge wiring.
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both the huge alloy radiator & ford taurus electric fans sound like overkill
i suspect the stock clutch fan may be the same as early starions, dunno.
If so they are the preferred choice for 2.6 veterans, even on their hi strung 2.6s.
Montero/Raider turbo conversions retain oem mechanical fan/shroud. Seen stock mech fan on a 600hp ca18 for eg.
Neat Spectra Premium CU700 Radiators seen in a few turbo mitsu pickups. Also a hopped up turbo deisel Mmax
used to see em on ebay ~$70. Looks like a perfect fit/match
mitsu alternators lifespan struggle with "normal" loads. Many starions upgrade
U can find neat efficient electric fans in numerous oem applications... mainly imports
sohc ford escorts run a smaller 2 speed elec fan. Average amp draw on low speed
with such a small cabin + low hp, the cooling fan demands should be minimal
I added a smaller pusher fan in front of AC condensor on my old rwd corollas. Huge difference in traffic
Lots more volume to cool also, especially the station wagon
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+1 on the alternator. Really underpowered output for the truck once you add any demand on the electrical system. Some accessory lights and a decent stereo system will push it to the brink - 45 amps just won't cut it. 75 to 90 amps would be ideal. I don't know how big the evaporator in the cabin is on your truck, but the one fitted to mine was stupid big. The condenser and the fan were a joke though. It was running a Sanden SD 508 compressor which is ancient now and I happened to have a Nippon Denso compressor and mounting cradle from a FWD G62B engine that was compatible. All I need to do is find the time to invest in putting it all back together
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Dash---
You're probably right about overkill, but I want COLD!!
NO OVERHEAT!!
Since I'm in North Nevada at the moment, it's hotter than sht here. I noticed that the temp gauge must have been lying. It went way up, but hasn't done the dance since. Must have been adapting to new stuff...
A big block early Mustang radiator looks almost like a direct fit other than the inlet and outlet hose location. I wish I was at home, I could move the inlet/outlets easily - since I have TIG equipment.
Anywaysssss,,,, I'll figure it out.
I'm also ready to go 5 speed. Looks like I'll have to pay a shop to do the swap since I am NOT going to do it on my back. I've done enough of that in my past.
I almost don't care about the cost anymore.
Just do it.
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Geezer - I'm at the mercy of parking lots and storage facilities. Not so easy for regular work on truck.
I will be looking into a bigger output alternator soon. The Asian alternators have similar mountings and wiring.
I haven't decided on the next upgrade for this rig.
I'm still considering an early Trans Am 340 six pack or Starion 2.6 turbo.
More dreams.
Shade tree work doesn't cut it.
Maybe just drive the b*tch...
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Well, this weekend I may do some measuring and front brake upgrades. Depends on how long I can take the Nevada heat. 100*, but low humidity.
So you say - low humidity and high heat is bearable?? Uh, NO.
Anyway, I am going to try and install the '97 (2) piston caliper assembly on the driver side - that includes the plated/drilled/slotted rotors with ceramic pads.
I bought a bunch of cardboard freight power tools to assist with this endeavor, and I hope it will all work out.
I'm also looking for a class 3 trailer receiver for this rig. It's looking like I'll have to use a "universal" style hitch receiver.
Anyone encounter this problem?
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I have several rotors in excellent condition, both vented and solid. They fit all years of MM, Arrows and Dodge D50s.
I also have spindles and several sets of single piston calipers. They even have decent brake pads.
PM me if you need any of this stuff.
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There was a lot of debate about front brake swaps on the Gen 1 trucks. I went out of my way to do a comparo in a JY to end the confusion. Awesome when everything is a nut and bolt swap - your new brakes will be a massive improvement and they look cool too. How much overhang are you getting from pad to rotor on the twin piston set up?
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you get like 4mm from memory on mine
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I'll check, but 4mm doesn't sound like a big deal...
It is surprising how well it fits, although the caliper is huge compared to the old unit.
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4mm is acceptable. The factory Gen 1 brake assemblies are almost comical compared to the twin piston and vented rotor brakes.
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^^^ Funny, all of the MM brake assemblies (2x4) are interchangeable if you use the entire units. Pop the upper/lower B joints, the tie rod and the brake hose, then bolt on to any MM first or second gen. Maybe even the later ones.
Even the calipers have the same mounting bracket bolt pattern.
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*only Gen 1 and Gen 2. Gen 3 has a much taller steering hub assembly but the caliper 'will' fit (I tried messing with a caliper swap and the caliper touched the edge of the rotor - a tiny bit of grinding and it would work) Know you guys didn't get Gen 3's but in the event that someone stumbles on one...
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^^^ Thanks for the info Geezer
I have several Chevy S10s that I have done similar upgrades.
There are many upgrades from later Blazers and trux that interchange similar to this caliper/rotor swap.
I have a 1991 S10 that handles like a late 70s Corvette. It has a modded 3.4 60* V6 and runs low 14s at the 1320.
I'll see if I can find some pix...
I just thought of this... I am pretty sure that the States did get 3rd gens. They were called the Dodge Raider (?)
Last edited by boozehero; 08-19-2021 at 07:57 AM.
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The S10 has aftermarket coil over kits. It looks like with some modification they'd work on D50/MM's. That would be the final piece to a full front end brake/suspension upgrade. Are you going to use braided stainless teflon sleeved hoses?
*and do post some pics of your S10 in the other vehicles section - that would be cool
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Gotta be the -biggest caliper to smallest rotor- award winner. Looks wierd
the S10 and the nissan D21 sound like cool projects. When you're not on the road, and have access.... take pix, post 'em
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Here's a bunch of my projects...
https://www.s10forum.com/threads/too...#post-11568057
I still have most of them, I have 2 large barns and a toy shop full of stuff.
I'll see if I can find pix of the Nissan/Ford turbo.
Last edited by boozehero; 08-20-2021 at 09:57 AM.
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