Well that sucked you got burnt by someone who either didn't know the difference between a narrow and wide transmission or didn't care. But the good thing is you found the right one eventually and someone was kind enough to leave you a good clutch kit. And nice work on the performance upgrading. It's surprising how well these engines respond to a few bolt on mods. The 38DGES was a better idea to run with than trying to re-jet the 32/36.
Thanks for the note Geezer. The auction for the transmission stated that the transmission would fit a 1979 or 1980 2.0/2.6. I guess I should have known better(?)
Anyway, I got tagged for $400 total - shipping too. He said he would refund my $$ but I would have to send it back.
Not likely that I will pay $150 to return it. He claimed that eBay provided the interchange.
Yeah, I figured the DGES 38 would be a better route, but I am sure my fuel mileage will suffer accordingly.
I may even have to re-jet it too. The truck looses power as it increases RPM/MPH. I don't want to burn a piston or valve.
I may install an AFR gauge for the hell of it.
I just hope that this 5 speed tranny works ok.
I've already had the 4 speed in and out with no improvement... basically a huge waste of time.
I still need to find a shift stick since someone already grabbed it before me.
I guess the next step is to use oven cleaner and de-grease this nasty unit. I was planning to remove the bottom plate and clean the internals. Hopefully, if there are any bad gears I can see them directly. I did take a 13 month guarantee on this one.
Knowing my luck, it will be a dud also.
The shifter should work on the 5 speed IIRC. Non caustic oven clean is good for cleaning engines and general grime but it seems to struggle against gearbox oil - be armed with spray can degreaser and a decent stiff scrubbing brush just in case. I'll have to look up in my Weber carb Bible what appropriate jetting is recommended for the 38DGES on a 2.0. Hopefully there's a reference specifically for the application...
I went through the shifter exchange routine when I pulled the 4 speed out the first time.
Reverse is toward driver and rearward, where the 5 speed is away from driver and rearward.
The shifter detent plates are different as well as the shifter guide pinion on the end of the shifter above the rotator ball end.
I have a broken shifter which I welded a threaded rod to, I'll find something I can screw onto it and it should be ok.
I had a 1970 Ford F100 that had a golf club handle through the floor to shift the C6 transmission. Worked great, but it flipped passengers pretty badly.
Off ceramic coat header, to a 2.5" custom bent "S" pipe, then toward the 2.5" cat
Off of the header, 2.5" pipe to a high flow 2.5" Cali certified cat, then reduced to 2.25" and pipe to Spintech muff.
2.25" Spintech muff. Unusual design, looks like it was hand built - not machine made.
Exits into a 2.25" tail[pipe that ends just under the right rear valence panel.
No rice here. Sounds excellent.
Sorry if this is a repeat, but it is now in chronological order.
It looks like a custom glass packed muffler. Haven't seen a square profile muffler box before, and it looks like there's a manufacturers' plaque rivetted to the underside of it too. Cool!
When I fist bought the truck, it smoked pretty badly. I eliminated the "Jet" valves and the smoke decreased but was still there. I changed the oil and filter which helped.
I was sent out to a new assignment in Carson City, NV, so I drove from Sacramento to CC. The truck ran super and ran 75 MPH most of the way over the mountains loaded with about 600 Lbs of my crap.
No more smoke!
Don't know if I posted this before... The ceramic coating is amazing! Stays clean and doesn't radiate a lot of heat.
Another one of my toyz...
1985 TVR 280i. (Look it up in GOOGLE)
Anyway, I replaced the 32/36 Weber with the 38/38 DGAS. Didn't make a huge difference, but the throttle response is better and higher speed cruising is a little easier. Acceleration is close to the same.
Here's some tail light pix:
Old...
New...
On eBay, a lot of these parts are coming from Thailand. And it only takes 4 to 5 days for them to arrive!
I ordered new window guide weather strips on Monday, they arrived today. Very impressive.
The repro tail light lens fitment is 'iffy' but they are pretty cheap and are better than a busted up tail light. It may take a little messing around to get the chamber divider inside of the lens case to fit. Other than that - good news on your well your truck is running now! And your TVR is a nice looking car. Rare too...
TVR has mechanical K Jetronic (SP?) injection. It does not like corn.
I'm changing the injection to a custom built intake and Holley 390 carb.
It will be more reliable than the injection, and it will add more power.
I'm adding a 5 speed and a custom built headers.
I'll be posting more about the Mitsubishi PU soon - with pix
I bought a Mitsubishi Electric factory radio on eBay a while ago. It came without any wiring, connector plug and was missing some of the control knobs. Didn't know if it worked.
After a crap ton of research, I found a plug that would work on the connection at the back of the radio. It came with wiring, but it wasn't pinned for this unit. I never found a wiring diagram after hours of searching. I did find a picture of the same radio in an '82 Mitsubishi Sapporo which gave me a clue to when it was manufactured.
I took my multi meter and traced all of the pins to speakers, power and illumination, the re-pinned the plug correctly. That was fun - no.
I connected to a 12 volt power source and found that the damn thing worked!
I went to a local Goodwill store and bought a set of high end Yamaha box speakers to use as a temporary set up until I can find some factory door speakers and possibly pre-cut factory door cards. I don't want to hack up the current door cards - they're mint.
The radio actually sound excellent through the Yamaha speakers and fit up against the bench seat firing right towards the driver/passenger.
The radio fits in the exact location where the AM unit was and bolts in the same way.
I'm trying to keep this rig as close to original as possible with good upgrades and factory optional parts.
Nice work on keeping the truck legit with Mitsubishi parts. The 3 spoke sports wheel is as good as any aftermarket wheel. Just need to find an instrument cluster with a factory tach
Thanks for the tag Geezer
I did find a factory tach gauge cluster. Paid heavily for it too, but it is the correct year and style for this truck. The later trucks (1983+) had different style gauges. They had white striping around the outer border of each gauge. I have one of those clusters also.
I installed LEDs for the back lighting and had to run a wire from the coil to pin #7 on the plug to the instrument wiring. The tach trigger wire is white, I was looking for the wire in the harness, but DSM did not run one. Dicks. I spent a bit of time with a multi meter looking for the wire hoping that it came from the factory. It didn't.
I have installed the cluster and also installed the original speedo into the tach cluster. Everything works correctly.
I have pix and will post them shortly.
Damn picture won't post correctly. Oh well, you see what I have.
This cluster is spotless. It had 47K miles on the odometer and I tend to believe it's accurate.
Since the tach cluster doesn't have idiot lights for oil pressure and alternator, I also bought the console that holds an ammeter and oil pressure gauge. I'll be installing that soon. I also have the correct oil pressure sender. I was thinking of retaining the idiot lights too. The console was cut up by an idiot owner, I'll have to clean it up and make it presentable.
I also bought new window felts since the old ones are bush. That should eliminate the wind noise and window rattle when I close the doors.
This project is turning into a serious money hog. The window felts were $50!
A lot of these parts are available on eBay and come from Thailand. I have bought a bunch of stuff from the "Atomboys" shop on eBay. They ship ultra quick - most of the parts I've bought arrive within 5 days!
I saw a truck with A/C at one of the upull yards here. Thinking of installing factory air. We'll see...
I mentioned in post #45 on this thread... I found the correct narrow block 5 speed at a Upull near Seattle, WA.
I'll be installing it some day - since I don't have a place to do it at the moment. I will probably go back to Sacramento (I'm in Carson City, NV at the moment) and do it there.
I pulled the the bottom plate off and the gears look good. No chips and the synchros still have teeth on them. I did an inital clean up, but need some stronger degreaser to eat the oil deposits on it.
I also read a thread somewhere that mentioned a performance cover - I don't remember much, maybe it was stronger and had cooling fins on it (?)
If anyone knows about this, please post or PM me. Tnx.
You can't be serious about this rotor...
I must weigh 20 Lbs.
Again, I thought I remembered a thread mentioning that the later Mighty Max disc brake assembly is a direct bolt on to earlier trux.
They are also vented. I guess you pop the upper and lower ball joint and tie rod and the assembly bolts on (?)
I know on my Nissan D21, and my Chevy S10s there are direct bolt ons from other models that have much larger capacity disc assemblies. Same with my Chevy C10s and my '68 Mustang.
The Mighty Max steering hub and brake assembly is a complete nut and bolt swap. They use the same upper and lower ball joints and the control arm and steering hub geometry is the same. I actually went out and bought a front set just to 100% confirm this is the case. A lot of guys were trying to change only the rotors and calipers only to find the brake caliper would foul on the end of the steering pivot due to the brake caliper mounting angle is different between the Gen 1 and Gen 2 trucks. The trick is going the extra step and finding a twin piston caliper to upgrade to. I bought a pair off a Mitsubishi Challenger but they have some overhang from the brake rotor...
I figured the brake swap was a direct bolt on.
Does the 87+ Mighty have the better disc brake assembly? There are a few at the local Upull here.
I've had several later Mighties but don't remember the front brake specifics.
If the assemblies are better, that will be another upgrade on the list for this rig.
I may have mentioned that I bought an expensive Bell Tech front sway bar. It's not much bigger than the stocker.
It does have Delrin hardware though. An improvement over stock rubber swill.
I've been thinking about a MOPAR 340 six pack/5 speed swap. Very expensive, but it would be an amazing vehicle afterwards.
BTW, are we the only ones on this forum? I guess this thread isn't that interesting.
boozehero ~ awesome upgrades good work ~ no MM or Ram50s in Hawaiian wrecking yards ~ I miss PickNPull ~ seems you have a supply of used vehicles ~ makin me jealous a little ~ I remember when you had trouble just getting your truck to run right
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