Originally Posted by boozehero
Last edited by xboxrox; 06-02-2021 at 05:25 PM.
I'll check it out. I don't remember seeing any, but I didn't look. Now I see what you're talking about.
Filled the POS again.
20.6 MPG.
Bigger carb, better gas mileage...(?!)
Better performing carb - less right foot
If my GF doesn't show this weekend, I will be visiting the Upull yard and seeing what's left (XBox, the web stay). From what I can see, they scrapped all but one Dodge D50. There is only one Mighty Max (1994) and one D50 (86) left in the yard. Boo.
I will also attempt to install all of the interior A/C components and re-assemble the dash - this will finish the interior dash upgrades.
Of course, the stock fuel pump was leaking gas, so I installed an e-pump. Then the stock pump started leaking oil... FTW!!! So, I went to pull the mechanical fuel pump and discovered that this was not possible without removing the cam/rocker assembly. The fuel pump activator arm snakes through a head bolt and the Jet Valve block off I installed. The arm is almost shaped like a "Z". I bought a block off plate from a big block Chevy which bolted up correctly. No more problems.
Since i bought the later disc brake assembly (94 Mighty Max) I installed the driver side with a new lower ball joint. I have to do the passenger side soon.
BUT... reading through Tortron's thread, he noted that 97 Montero dual piston calipers are a direct bolt on to the later (Mighty Max) spindles.
Yeah, $160 later, I ordered the calipers. So, now I have a set of early spindles/caliper/rotors, a set of later type calipers and a new set of dual piston calipers and pads on the way.
I also ordered drilled/plated/slotted rotors with ceramic pads (which pads won't fit now)I guess a lot of it will be for sale in the market section and on eBay.
I lose my shirt every time...
Last edited by boozehero; 06-10-2021 at 05:09 PM.
Dang hero you know how to stay busy !! If you go & happen to see a 4X4 1986 front hub cap I need it ~ one more of them front painted types and I will have a full set...
Xbox - I have only seen one 4x4 in the upulls around here. Of course it only had 2 wheels on it and they were after market.
There were 2 Mighty Maxes and 2 D50s at the yard closest to me... and of course - they crushed the Mightys and one D50. All that's left is an 86 D50 and a 94 Mighty.
My GF was here for 10 days, so you know that yard visits were out of the question.
It doesn't help that the yard is 32 miles away...
I don't know what gives with this rig - last time I checked mileage - it was 21 MPG. (!!??)
That includes 75 MPH freeway cruising and sometimes my right heel gets stuck in the Weber...
I haven't been babying the truck.
Maybe I should try for a real mileage run and see what happens.
I've used the same 10% ethanol fuel from (remember these?) Sinclair dinosaur filling stations.
I never expected this kind of mileage from this rig.
Things to know about fuel. Ethanol molecules are bigger than regular gas hydrocarbon so 'technically' you need bigger jets to run the stuff - and the Weber is sensitive to tuning. Global standards for fuel is all over the place so I'm not 100% sure what fuel to recommend in the US (anything better than regular gas - 89/90 would be the best bet). If you nail the tuning and have it running for a specific fuel you can get 25mpg or better out of the Weber carb (right foot pending). It leaves the factory Mikuni for dead on all fronts. I personally would steer away from E10 though.
Thanks for the note Geezer
Unfortunately, most f the time, there is no choice for non ethanol fuel. Most filling stations are carrying 10% to 15% mix. In states like Nebraska, the mix can go to 20%.
I've considered installing an AFR gauge, but that would only help rejet the Weber accordingly. Once "tuned" the gauge would be of little use.
When I return to Baton Rouge, LA., my friend has an in floor dyno which I can use to tune the truck.
Meanwhile, I am happy with 21 MPG, and it may improve with "easy" driving.
boozehero ~ I got the hub caps off ebay BUT I do wish that plastic door trim piece was available (maybe the Gen2 trucks use the same piece?) THANKS for thinking of me & the hub caps ~ I gotta clean em paint em attach em including a few dabs of silicone ~ dang front 4X4 things fall off so easyIf my GF doesn't show this weekend, I will be visiting the Upull yard and seeing what's left (XBox, the web stay). From what I can see, they scrapped all but one Dodge D50. There is only one Mighty Max (1994) and one D50 (86) left in the yard. Boo.
I will also attempt to install all of the interior A/C components and re-assemble the dash - this will finish the interior dash upgrades.
Of course, the stock fuel pump was leaking gas, so I installed an e-pump. Then the stock pump started leaking oil... FTW!!! So, I went to pull the mechanical fuel pump and discovered that this was not possible without removing the cam/rocker assembly. The fuel pump activator arm snakes through a head bolt and the Jet Valve block off I installed. The arm is almost shaped like a "Z". I bought a block off plate from a big block Chevy which bolted up correctly. No more problems.
Since i bought the later disc brake assembly (94 Mighty Max) I installed the driver side with a new lower ball joint. I have to do the passenger side soon.
BUT... reading through Tortron's thread, he noted that 97 Montero dual piston calipers are a direct bolt on to the later (Mighty Max) spindles.
Yeah, $160 later, I ordered the calipers. So, now I have a set of early spindles/caliper/rotors, a set of later type calipers and a new set of dual piston calipers and pads on the way.
I also ordered drilled/plated/slotted rotors with ceramic pads (which pads won't fit now)
I lose my shirt every time...
It is a complete PIA to load pix on this site!!!!!!!!
Anyway, here's a pic of one of the new front rotors going on this jewel
This is a comparison of the 2 piston caliper from a Montero vs the single piston caliper from a 1994 Mighty Max.
The dust shield needs to be trimmed, otherwise it's a direct bolt on.
Here's another shot. The rotor assembly in the background is from a 1994 Mighty and is a direct bolt on to my 1979.
I've already sourced ceramic pads for the Montero calipers.
I guess this rig will STOP....
I'm also ordering stainless braided lines very shortly.
Included: flush all brake fluid and replace with DOT 4 synthetic juice.
I've seen the deals on ebay for slotted and cross drilled rotors - those look like a good upgrade. Once you've fitted the braided stainless steel brake hoses and it'll haul up on a dime. Anything you can do to upgrade the rear end?
Super Smart Performance Upgrade LOOKING GOOD
Nice rotors. Grab stainless lines yet?
I have an Isuzu Trooper disc brake axle assembly, but it's geared to tall for what I want. It looks like an almost direct bolt it.
The ratio is 4.29 IIRC.
I ultimately want a gear close to 3.55 or 3.23.
I am looking at Chevy S10 axles, but I'd have to re-drill for 6 lug or change the front to 5 lug.
I have several S10 axle assemblies.
The other alternative is a Ford Exploder 8.8 disc, but I'd have to re-drill the lug pattern and shorten the passenger axle 3 1/16"
Undecided, and since I have no shop where I am, it's not likely to happen until I'm back In Baton Rouge or NY State.
Meanwhile, I installed the evaporator assembly in the cab and the A/C dash. I am putting in the hoses today and bought all new seals (the green ones)
Didn't realize that the radiator core assembly is different for the 79. I bagged a condenser from an 86, it is slightly larger than the opening in the space for it. I have to trim the top frame and it will (hopefully) fit.
I bought a new receiver/dryer, the next hurdle is the compressor and the mounting brackets. The 86 is different.
I need to find a 2.6 or Astron 2.0 assembly.
I'm thinking of looking at some of the Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth 2.6 assemblies and adapting the hoses to this application.
Also looking at a Starion bracket assembly from a 2.6
Any suggestions?
Rear disc - Montero/Raider? Full axle swap - don't know what the track width is like though, might get lucky with an LSD centre. Don't forget a crank pulley with the provision for an A/C drive belt and a tensioner pulley assembly (got no idea what the compressor cradle looks like for a 2.6) A bigger condenser core will make the A/C more efficient. Add a decent fan as the factory fan was kind of pathetic. Looks like you are making all the upgrades that a Gen 1 could do with! Check how thick the front stabiliser bar is on your truck. If your truck has a thin bar, a Gen 2 stabiliser will swap into the Gen 1 - take the 'D' bushes and mounting brackets for the install.
Thanks for the input Geezer
The engine already has the double pulley on it. I checked.
I also bought a very expensive Bell Tech performance front sway bar with Delrin mounting hardware (bushings) Haven't installed it yet.
The 2.6 and 2.0 (Astron) blocks apparently have the same compressor mounting brackets/location from what I have seen.
Chrysler (Mopar) used the engine in millions of mini vans and K cars (upgraded engine)
A former fiance's father had a 2.6 in his 84 Chrysler New Yorker.
I was thinking of looking for that compressor assembly from one of those maybe - since they are (hopefully) more common than the Mighty Maxes.
I tried to install the used condenser from a 1984 D50, the opening on my 79 is smaller than the later models. As you know, the later D50s/Mighties had quad headlights and at the same time, they must have opened the front up a little. The condenser is too big to fit without modification.
Typical.
Anyway, it is hotter than a McDonald's kitchen in Nevada. Seven days in a row of 100+ degree weather.
A/C = mandatory
All of the evaporator housing and electrics went in without any issues. I re-assembled the dash and it looks good.
One other question - I know that Mitsubishi had/has a pretty good performance backing in Australia. Lots of performance parts available.
I looked on the webz and found Solex/Mikuni/Weber side draft inlet manifolds and other miscellaneous parts. I haven't seen any camshafts other than stock.
Maybe you know of any Geezer?
I also have a non jet valve head at home. I forgot I have it sitting at my shop. It's an aftermarket (new) unit. I may install it since the current head on this truck (had) jet valves and it needs valve seals.
Keep dreaming son...
Australia lucked out with performance stuff from Mitsubishi. Hardly got anything. A few Galant GSR fast back coupes back in the 70's that were very rare, very basic turbo stuff imported in the 80's (1.8 FWD Cordia turbo and RWD 2.0 Starion) and after that it's Evo, Evo, Evo... We did do some local development with production cars like a Turbo variant of the Sigma RWD sedan and built a widebody version of the early FWD Galant under the 'Magna' name (this is where you guys in the US source 2.6 multi port injection manifolds from) As for summer - Adelaide gets hot. Hottest temp recorded in the city was 115 F/46.6 C in 2019. That summer was hell. Overnight temps didn't drop below 84 for 2 weeks.
A few companies made inlet manifolds for Mitsubishi engines (Lynx, Kilkenny castings, Redline, Pierce) but they're all for Weber DCOE's. Awful for a street car. Funnily enough it seems Malaysia and the Philippines got a lot of cars with factory twin side draft Mikuni PHH carbs. Cams - don't know. There are companies that make street cams for the Astron and Sirius engines but there's a lot of talk about how they aren't ground correctly and don't hit the mark. A friend of mine bought a Sigma Turbo that the PO fitted a hot cam in. Dumb move for a turbo engine and as an added bonus the heat treatment was crap so it wiped off 2 lobes. I did run into a company called Top End Performance in CA that claims to be the #1 performance heads and parts supplier for the 4G54. Don't know anything about them or what their reputation is like...
^^^ Once again, thanks for the info!
Topend has a bad rep with us starion owners forever. Other better sources
RWD corollas axle close in width to chevy S10. I got a few free ones. All low 3.xx:1 gear ratio range
Perfect for a boosted 2.0 5spd corolla + my tire diameter
3.545:1 is Starion stock gear ratio, but taller tire diameter and ~700 pounds heavier.... so taller low 3.xx is ideal
most swaps screw up the gearing, results = under-performing
Max/D50 axle ~5 inches wider than S10 iirc
8.8 way heavier. A waste if you're not chasing 500+ ft-lbs torque imo = Useless dead weight. I dumped 2 lsd 8.8s
Boost is a natural for a Max/D50 engine bay. Folks still sell good complete 2.6 starion drivetrains
then there is always the mighty 4g63
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WLv4mO6Ygs
^^^ Thanks Dash. I've considered the Starion/Conquest swap for many years. I've owned numerous Diamond Star vehicles, including many MM/D50s.
I do have several different rear ends I've sourced at Upulls during half price sales. I just haven't been home to do the comparisons.
The last MM I owned was a pretty minty 88 that I bought to do the 2.6 turbo swap.
My problem is - I live in hotels because of my job.
So... I work on my vehicles in hotel parking lots, under a tree or in shops where I meet guys during my assignments with work. Sort of stifles my major plans for projects.
Crappy pic, but you get the idea.
I have a pretty serious toy shop at home with almost anything needed to destroya stock vehicle... (spelled modded)
Anyway, when I return home, I will be finalizing this project and (most likely) selling it. I have way too many other projects waiting.
Meanwhile, I'll keep moving ahead with more upgrades.
That's good to know Dash. They advertise on their site they're the #1 source of performance heads for the 2.6. Scratch them off the list...
Way back we had a guy who was working on something truly scary - a BMW 16v head on a 4G54 block. It appeared that the coolant and oil galleries were pretty close to being aligned and the fact that both were chain driven valvetrains made this a plausible project. Never found out how far he got, but if you were patient (and nutty) enough to tackle this you would end up with one hot 2.6 that could run injected throttle bodies.
I have an 87 Nissan D21 with a Ford 2.3 Turbo T bird engine in it too. There is a swap where a Volvo DOHC 16 valve head is modified to fit the Ford engine. It's a pretty popular modification.
The truck looks like a "farm truck" and surprises a lot of people. It runs consistent 15 flat at the 1320. The engine is basically stock. It's also a 5 speed.
It has the potential to run much much faster....
Lack of vebdors perhaps the best thing to happen for the starquest community. Spawned cool innovation
Boosted SOHC can get anything you need for street performance. DOHC not worth the fuss imo
Ford 2.3 Lima motors deliver the goods wherever you like. Quite a few 11/10sec full weight street cars, reasonable cost
booze,
You seem deep in the game, bring alot of energy. Still find time to play with your odd work situation. Kudos
^^^ Gracias Dash.
Keeps me out of the bars (for the most part) and it sure beats drugs - although some people may consider it an addiction (!)
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