G54B Engine Differences?

[bchavez93]

Hello everyone,
this is my first time posting even though I've been signed up for a little while.

I was given a 1979 or 1980 Dodge D50 Sport with a G54B Engine in it. The truck is automatic but my neighbor who gave it to me, stated his daughter ran it low on oil and a rod ended blasting through the oil pan. I dont think its rebuildable or how much damage was done. I'm assuming the engine is done for.

I've been trying to find a replacement engine in my local junk yards for about 3 years now and no luck.
I found a truck that has a G54B engine, 6.5 hours away from me in a junk yard and I'm willing to go pull it, but as I was doing research to determine whether the engines were compatible, I read that there is a narrow block and wide block g54b.
My truck is an automatic, the would be donor truck is a 1988 dodge ram 50 sport standard.

Would this engine be a good direct fit replacement? or do I need to keep looking? I really want to get this truck going.
Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance.
I attached pictures in case it helps.
this is the junkyard engine
This ones mine...

[boozehero]

Good that you posted pix.
As I remember, the automatic 2.0 block is a "Wide" block, and the 2.6 at the junkyard is also a "Wide" block.
There are a few differences between the 2.6 and your engine, but the JY engine should bolt in.
I would PM Geezer, StarionGuy or Xboxrox (forum members) to verify. They may see this and add information. They are pretty active here and know their stuff.

A along time ago I had Mighty Max 2.0 automatic and had a PIA dealing with the Wide and Narrow block issue.
Funny, I still have the 2.0 auto engine sitting at my shop in NY State.

If you don't have a lot of mechanical knowledge, the JY engine might be a slight challenge to install in place of your current engine.
Since the engine in your truck is blown, a good start would be to remove the engine/transmission and see how bad it really is.
I suggest taking lots of pictures as a reference for future use.
Label parts and where they go.

Too bad you're in Bakersfield, there are 5 Mighty Max/Dodge D50s in a upull in Sparks, NV.
It's a 7 hour hike from you to here.
I'm a little fuzzy brained on exact interchange with the automatic.

[geezer101]

Engine swapping in CA can fast turn into a PITA. You can use an engine from a 2.6 Dodge Raider/Mitsubishi Montero/Ram50 and early second Gen Mighty Max's had the 2.6 as an option before they all went to 2.4 EFI and 3.0 V6. All 4G54 engines are wide block so it's only a matter of swapping the flywheel and starter motor from the manual trans optioned engine + the carb (needs the auto kickdown function) It gets weird with a 2.0 4G52 and the auto on a 2.0 G63B. I would take 'heros advice and pull the engine and take the sump off it to know what you're getting into. It might be a bad bottom end bearing and with a linish and fresh bearings on the crank it might be viable. Engines gotta come out anyway...

[bchavez93]

Thanks for your replies.
I agree, I should probably take the engine out of mine and see how bad the damage really is. I thought that maybe having the "new" engine ready would motivate me to actually pull and place the new one back in a weekend or so. I may just have to bite the bullet and take it out.
Ok, so if I understand correctly, the two engines should be compatible then, even though mine is and earlier automatic, and the donor would be a later standard? Both engines are G54B and I would just need to swap over some parts from mine to donor?

The engine from the donor truck in my post is now gone, but I found another standard truck that is a G54B on row 52. If you guys say it fits, I will get it.
Thanks again!

[geezer101]

Should only need to install the flex plate, starter motor and carb (to have all of the correct linkages) from your dead engine onto a manual to be able to swap it in. There are FWD variants but they have a remote water pump driven off a pulley on the back of the head (if you see a 4G54 head with the rear end of the cam exposed you know where it came from...) To keep it simple, take pics of your engine from all sides and use it as a reference when scrounging through yards for a donor.

[bchavez93]

Good news, I just picked up an engine Friday from a JY in Stockton, CA. Made sure to take reference pics to make sure it was a compatible one.
Thinking I will send it to the machine shop while I work on getting my old one out. I've removed and replaced a few engines and transmissions on 90's Asian vehicles and I like to believe I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but is there anything I should look out for when swapping these out?

Can't wait to get this truck on the road.

[boozehero]

A suggestion...
I would not send the replacement engine to a machine shop. You may be whacked with a very large bill.
Instead, bring it home, remove the oil pan and see what's in there. You can remove a rod bearing or 2 and see the condition, and a main bearing cap too.
If good, re-assemble and re-torque.
At the same time, you can clean the oil pan. Replace the timing belt, clean up the rest of the engine, paint and swap over any missing parts.
You can also remove the valve cover and see if there is any "mud". If not, most likely the engine was taken care of.

Pull the spark plugs, if they need to be replaced... A strong shot of WD40 or similar in each cylinder, then spin the engine with a big ratchet.

The bottom line - don't spend any $$ unless you have to.
I have a feeling the carb will be junk (usually are) and you may need plug wires.
You may install this engine and it may fire right away. It's happened to me many times.

Did you see how many miles were on it, or was the speedo gone?

One issue with these engines - the "Jet" valves are crappy. They usually blow seals and then the engine will use oil.
How do I know?
You can source block off units to replace the Jet valves. My engine smoked pretty good. I bought the eliminators, no more smoke. They are easy to install.

There is a lot more to consider, but you can do most of the work yourself.
Start with removing your engine and transmission, then see what else you may need.
Only use a machine shop for work you can't do yourself (boring, balancing, valve job etc.).

It is surprising how fast an engine replacement can cost. It adds up quickly.
Post more pix if you can.

[geezer101]

+1 on 'heros advice. Factor in at least a new timing chain and guide kit (with the front crank seal), a water pump (easier to do with the engine out), new accessory drive belts and a new oil filter. CHECK THE CONDITION OF THE HEATER BYPASS PIPE (the one that goes around the back of the block from under the exhaust manifold - prone to rusting out and a bit of a biatch to remove while the engine is installed, and to actually find a replacement unit...) Taking off bottom end and main journal caps is a breeze and will give you a good idea of it it was run dry or looks tired. If all looks good and you drop it in your truck, do an oil flush with diesel fuel and fresh oil and baby it for a few days. It will scour some of the crap out from the piston rings and hydraulics (use the OLD filter to do this before installing new oil and a filter - I have a how-to write up)

[bchavez93]

Ok, so I finally got around to pulling some thing off the engine. I didn't find or see anything in the oil pan. I removed 2 rod bearings and a main and saw some haziness on them. One looks like it has score marks from maybe a piece of metal getting caught between bearing and crank. (I'll post pictures below).
I didn't see any sludge buildup anywhere inside just dirty oil.
Unfortunately the speedo was gone when the engine was taken out so I couldn't tell how many miles it had.
I have removed the timing cover but have not removed the head yet. Any recommendations on where I should get a timing chain kit and gasket set for the engine?

This is the first Rod bearing I pulled off

Here's the second

Here one of the mains
I'm not too familiar with internals of an engine but I know the basics, so I was hoping you can tell me how bad these bearings are?


And finally... here's a picture of my truck

Overall, I think its in pretty good condition, except for the engine of course. The previous owners backed into a pole so the tailgate is smashed in, but it may be able to be pulled out.

[bchavez93]

So apparently my last reply didn't post. Something must have gone wrong. Here's what has happened since.

I took 2 rod bearings out, 1 main bearing and noticed some "haze" and some scoring. Not too sure how bad they are.


I didn't know where I could find gaskets for this engine, but after much searching, I have ordered a head gasket set, Timing chain kit, lower gasket set, and water pump. I know I will need a few more things but I will get those as I go. Right now the head, oil pan, timing cover and most of the old gasket material is off. Still needs a bit more cleaning.
Since the parts are going to take a lil while to get here, I will be working on taking the engine out of the truck this weekend.
What do you guys think about the bearings? I'm not very familiar with dealing with internals of an engine so I was hoping you could give me some advice.

Here's what my truck looks like...

to me it looks in pretty good condition... except for the fact that someone backed into a pole and damaged the tailgate and bumper. Interior looks pretty good for its age though.

thanks again for your replies

[d50Lewis]

I have a 80 D-50 sport 5speed. The head went out in it, twice! having the crack welded didn't last very long. I got a 92 mighty max 2.4 and it was a bolt in! motor mounts, radiator fan shroud, the drive shaft matched up perfectly. Mating the wiring took me a week to do, the PCM for the fuel injection to the old wiring harness required a lot of solder and heat shrink tubing but everything works as it should. I was lucky to get a wreaked truck as a donor. I have put over 200,000 since doing this swap. Letting you know the bolt in part is easy.

[dash]

d50Lewis,
that's how you do it. 200,000 miles ? Durable & reliable
post some pictures of your project with a little writeup, in Member Introductions or so
helpful to those upgradeing these older fossils to later drivetrains

[geezer101]

^you could cheat and use the intake and distributor off a G63B on a 4G64. Go full neanderthal tech but with a 2.4. No wiring and messing with a high pressure fuel pump. Set it up like you'd install a Weber (this is where a 38DGES carb would be perfect)

[pennyman1]

He can't do that in Kommiefornia - sadly...

[boozehero]

Chavez - Those rod bearings look fine. If you are worried, you can replace them at little cost. They're about $20 on eBay. The crank looks good too.
Looks like you may have found a decent replacement engine.
I've found replacement parts for these engines are inexpensive.
I know it's a PIA to post pix on this forum - other forums it's easy - but you have to reduce the size to a thumbnail or they are too large.
Anyway, if you can, post more about your progress.
BTW... good looking truck.

[bchavez93]

I finally got around to taking the engine. I went ahead and power washed the engine bay and everything dirty I could see. Since holes had been blown in the block, there was oil everywhere. I ran into a road block. When comparing the old and JY engine block, it seems like I somehow ended up with a wide block g54b. *facepalm*
Now I'm back to square one since this JY engine won't bolt up to my transmission.
once again I'm on the hunt for a narrow block G54b.

I will be posting more pics as soon as I get the chance.

[geezer101]

All 4G54/G54B engines are a wide block configuration*. I am hedging my bets that your engine is a 4G52 2.0 unless is specifically says it's a 2.6, then you have the last of the Astron I G54B engines. Just need you to verify the engine code. This is a difficult engine to get parts for and to source as a complete engine. It's an all mechanical head/valvetrain, no jet valves and the rocker cover has a shallower profile than the Astron II. Find a KM145 5 speed transmission and you'll be able to install the engine you've picked up.

[dash]

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...-6-Litre-Block

1979–1989 2.6 L G54B (4G54) I4, SOHC, 105 hp (78 kW)
Wide block design for all 5 spd and 87-89 automatics, ~13.25" lower bell housing bolt spacing. 79-86 automatics are narrow blocks with 12.5" spacing. Motors have a timing chain with engine i.d. plate located on pass. side of engine by water pump.

[geezer101]

And there you have it sportsfans, I didn't read the first post of it being an auto. That is still going to make it a little harder to find the corresponding engine. Could be worse, you could be looking for an Astron 80 engine. Dash gets the Scooby Doo trophy

[bchavez93]

Thanks Dash
I wish I would have seen that sooner, or I might have and forgot idk.

So what I need to look for now is a 79-86 2.6L block (auto only)
This is gonna be fun. lol

How plausible would it be to have a machine shop plug, drill out, and tap the wide block to the correct spacing?
Does anyone know if the internals of ALL G54b blocks are interchangeable?

[bchavez93]

Hello everyone,
Is been a couple years and still no luck finding a narrow 2.6L nearby.

Does anyone know if there is another engine that will bolt up to my Auto trans?
I was thinking maybe a Narrow 2.0 with my current 2.6 head?

[bchavez93]

Hello,
its been a while.

Does anyone know if a 1981-1986 2.6L is the same as a 2.6l from 1981?? they both would be from Automatic Trucks.