My Electric fuel pump install

[mopar_ja]

Going to repost my fuel pump install here so everyone can see it, since i can't transfer it from the blog. i will also try my best to go step by step breaking it down big purple dinasaur style, exactly what i did.

Some back ground info my truck 82 Ram 50 4x4, 2.6l Carb, 5-speed, picked it for $500. out of Plush, Or. orginal engine bad compression needs rebuilt so found a replacement at the local Sacramento AREA 51. Since the new old motor already had header and weber carb upgrade i didn't have to do those. That was one of the upgrades i was planning.

[mopar_ja]

Step one decide what fuel pump use the one that i got with motor, after researching on this site and knowing i wanted to do some future upgrades to the motor later, went with more fuel pump than what is needed at the current moment.

Carter P4070 rotory style, i got my from Auto Parts Tomorrow. it cost $60 delivered

http://www.autopartstomorrow.com/

Step two where to mount, again after reading here decided to put between the bed mounts where orginal fuel filter is located. sorry no pics before i started.

I removed the front lower bed panel to get better acess to the area i was working.

Removed all brackets for original fuel filter and return fuel line with sawsall, grind flush what remains if any.

[mopar_ja]

Bought a 6x18, 22 gauge sheet metal from Ace Hardware like $8, $9 dollars.

hold it up in front of bed brackets centered ( i eye balled it ) mark sheet metal with sharpie top and bottom where it intersects with brackets. use ruler draw line connecting your two marks, now you have rough angle where to bend. Now use pliers, hammer, vise, workbench top anything you can get some sort of straight edge. Bend sheet metal on the drawn angle take your time bend a little at time unless you own or have acess to ( press break ).

DSC09732.jpg Take back to truck test fit. i held it in place with vise grips marked where the front edge of bed bracket runs down the length of new fuel pump bracket and cut off excess, it should look something like this when excess is removed.

Little line far left is fuel return, next is line to carb then from tank.

[mopar_ja]

the pic in previous post the return line and line to carb are actually touching the bottom edge of bracket, i did not like this and did not want to take a chance on kinking the line if i just bent it by hand so i clearanced the braket for the lines.

DSC09744.jpg Here the back edge of bracket notched for fuel lines.

DSC09745.jpg Here before i marked and drilled the holes for mounting the bracket i was checking for plumb or get as close as possible. i did this since this is a rotory pump i wanted to give it the best chance possible of survival.

[mopar_ja]

DSC09747.jpg This is what it looks like all bolted in.

DSC09751.jpg This was my original plan to reuse stock fuel filter, my mistake here was i did not pay attention ( guess i was too broke) to the forum posts saying ( When upgrading your fuel pump to a higher flow you should also upgrade your fuel filter. ) So after reading this i upgraded the fuel filter, which inter changed my fuel pump location actually making for a cleaner build.

[mopar_ja]

DSC09975.jpgSo after redrilling the holes for fuel pump loaction, and checking the fit and adjusting the fuel elbows so the filter is also as plumb as i could get it. This is what it looks like.

From here i removed everything clean bracket and bed brackets sprayed them down rust converter, i used Dupli Color Rust Fix two coats. Then i used Marhyde rubberized under coating both sides of bracket and inside of bed brackets.

DSC00005.jpg Here is the final finished product. The fuel return line i hooked it back up and ran it behind the bracket and plug it off in engine bay side. This pic also shows it fully wired in with a relay, i will take some pics of that set up as well and post later. Since i did not take any at time of install.

The only thing left i will eventually make a shield for this, not some much for dirt and grime just rocks or something else might decide to say hey "lets fly up there and beat that thing up" Still working on design as well.

[mopar_ja]

Here is the fuel filter i went with:

pfs-10211_w.jpg In line Street series by Professional Products Model # 10211; 3/8 NPT both ends, 2.4 inches long, 35 micron, rated for 160 gph @ 7 psi. this should clean up the build a little more and allow me to center the pump. I will hard plumb this to the pump and use hose from tank to filter.

Got is from Summit Racing

[pennyman1]

That's the way to do it - I still haven't had the time to get better pics of my setup - well done.

[mopar_ja]

ok got some pics of the relay. Here is the relay i used http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-890023/?rtype=10

DSC00178[1].jpg I mounted here because hole aready there and didn't want to drill new one, mainly not sure if this is going to permenant location future upgrades may move relay. I had to replace lead from relay to pump which was only 12g and (A) wire too short (B) run was long enough needed to be at least 10g so that is what it got. I pulled wire, carefully uncrimped female connector recrimped and soldered 10g in.

DSC00179[1].jpg Here is the circut breaker that came with relay, right post from battery left to relay.

DSC00180[1].jpg DSC00181[1].jpg Here is pressure switches, left or top is safety switch for fuel pump other is just oil pressure. I put them up and angled for built in drain back feature didn't want switch(s) just sitting in oil, been working good so far.

[flbadrian]

ok got some pics of the relay. Here is the relay i used http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-890023/?rtype=10

DSC00178[1].jpg I mounted here because hole aready there and didn't want to drill new one, mainly not sure if this is going to permenant location future upgrades may move relay. I had to replace lead from relay to pump which was only 12g and (A) wire too short (B) run was long enough needed to be at least 10g so that is what it got. I pulled wire, carefully uncrimped female connector recrimped and soldered 10g in.

DSC00179[1].jpg Here is the circut breaker that came with relay, right post from battery left to relay.

DSC00180[1].jpg DSC00181[1].jpg Here is pressure switches, left or top is safety switch for fuel pump other is just oil pressure. I put them up and angled for built in drain back feature didn't want switch(s) just sitting in oil, been working good so far.

I know old post but what did you do with the old fuel pump??... take it off and put a metal plate so nothing will get inside or leave the pump and cover the holes???

[mopar_ja]

Yes, took off cleans up engine bay, but not required you can leave old pump if you want.

[Soular]

Can anyone share what size or what parts are these as I need to do the same thing and I can't find anything that will fit in the oil pressure hole...everything I try even stuff that claims to be the right size will not fit... its mind numbing... Thanks

ok got some pics of the relay. Here is the relay i used http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-890023/?rtype=10


DSC00180[1].jpg DSC00181[1].jpg Here is pressure switches, left or top is safety switch for fuel pump other is just oil pressure. I put them up and angled for built in drain back feature didn't want switch(s) just sitting in oil, been working good so far.

[pennyman1]

Good Idea about pointing the inlets down on the switch and sensor. I also ran 10 Ga wire to relay, but my relay is back about a foot from the pump because I had a good place to mount it.

[blensen]

How would someone go about removing the front lower bed panel? I cant seem to find any way to get at the stuff in front of the tank on my 87 D50.

[DroppedMitsu]

if you are talking about the actual lower beside then it doesnt remove unless you cut it off, the little mud flap type piece in front of the tire does and thats usually how I get to the tank

[blensen]

It would appear the the second-gens don't have any close-together bed mounts like what's pictured. Any real downside to mounting the pump on the outside of the frame rail in front of the rear wheel? Keep in mind that my truck is 2wd and won't ever see anything but street duty.

[mopar_ja]

Not really, but it would definatley need some sort of shield, also take in consideration any future mods you might want to do as well. You could also if you have the room make some custom brackets that bolt to the frame or weld and extend up towards bottom of bed that would allow you to mount fuel pump above frame and below the bed kind of like mine.

[revvedUpToTheMax]

How does your truck pull at high rpm with the weber carb on it? I still have the garbage stock carb on mine want to get a weber but don't want to lose power in the high RPMs... My truck hits about 3 thousand rpm and absolutely impresses me cause it just hauls ass and I want less hesitation off the start. But just let me know. Thanks

[BradMph]

IMO the weber is a totally great modification. Better around town fuel mileage and for my truck, getting on freeway is definitely easier when the carb is opened up. It pulls much better then the Mikuni ever did. There are items of the smog device that require removing(disconnecting) also and just that is a benefit itself to the engine. I don't think you will find anyone say the performance dropped installing a weber and it's properly tuned.

[revvedUpToTheMax]

Thank you for your input I put one on a mazda b2200 and the thing was a tourqe monster but it just wouldn't pull above 4 thousand. Went there that motor twice ported it and polished the intake and some on the head and it just unloved the tourqe even more. Idk how, I heard polishing improves in the higher rpm but it depends I guess

[mopar_ja]

Thank you for your input I put one on a mazda b2200 and the thing was a tourqe monster but it just wouldn't pull above 4 thousand. Went there that motor twice ported it and polished the intake and some on the head and it just unloved the tourqe even more. Idk how, I heard polishing improves in the higher rpm but it depends I guess

Porting and polishing only really improves hp not torque, the best way I have figured out to improve torque is stroking. So look at this way torque gets you off line or out of a corner quicker but horse power keeps there over the long run. That is why so many high hp motors require you to run in the upper rpm range of the motor all the time, in order to reap any benefit out it. But the down side of stroking it usually takes the motor longer to spool up and has lower upper rpm limit, so its a give and take. And my truck will pull above 6k with the weber I have done it. Now I printed off about six different articles on weber tuning bought the weber manual and used them all "AS A ROUGH GUIDE" and ended up with a way different tuning than they all suggested or hinted at what my should be for my given elevation, which is about 4k.

[revvedUpToTheMax]

Exactly, I had to jet the weber on the mazda a good 2-3 times before I was satisfied with the engines performance and spark plug color. But thank you for the info, other than a weber and a header what other engine modifications have you added? Cam? I bet a cam in one of these 2.6's would make a hell of a difference in power!

[mopar_ja]

Actually my motor has a 2.0l head, with the 2.0 cam. and when I found an air leak on intake manifold gasket, I ended up making my own gasket. So when I was matching the gasket to the intake ports I used a rattail file and kind of ported slightly and then polished out all file marks for about the first inch inside the port. Did it help not a clue didn't really get to drive the truck but maybe one time before intake gasket change. I do know I have almost every jet available for my weber and I tried it I can actually run my truck with "NO" idle jets primary or secondary fuel economy sucks but it works.

[revvedUpToTheMax]

Did the older 2.0's have a timing chain or did they have a belt as well? I have only ported a few things I ported the intake manifold on mazda where the carb bolts on to all the adapter plates for the weber I hogged that out to oval with a carbide took and I loved it way more efficient.

[mopar_ja]

yes, first gen 2.0 G52B all timing chain, there was a discussion on here about that supposedly it in creases comp. by .5 to 1 point and take a look at Acuta73 build he sent his cam off the Oregon Cam grinders and they reground it for an RV style grind. Found the old thread: http://www.mightyram50.net/phpbb3/vi...p?f=105&t=1181