HELP! New Weber 32/36 install, Now engine running too hot/fast

[clunkheads]

Hey guys I just installed a brand new Weber in my '89 Mighty Max G63B 2.0 automatic and I'm having a few issues with it now

Issues
1-its running too fast
2-running hot
3-if I drive it more than 10 min and turn it off it still runs/putters then dies
4-it shifts hard going into a different gear

first off the truck ran OK before the install. sometimes it would stall out if it was too cold or too hot,
I figured the weber would change that.

Once I installed it, it ran really HIGH to where I had to run and shut off the ignition

I took another look and I figured it was because the electronic choke wasn't connected...
So I connected it to where the old mikuni electric choke was connected and I attached it there.

-Still high

I figured I was the mixture but it's backed off 2 full turns like in the manual.

-no change

I thought it was because it was getting too much gas from my electric fuel pump flooding the bowl

-So I bought a fuel pressure regulator. it goes up to about 3 PSI then drops to 0 then back to 2.5 PSI

I'm at a loss

Any help on this??

THANKS!!

[SubGothius]

The dieseling (engine run-on after it's shut off) is probably related to the high idle, maybe the mixture too. The choke mechanism also operates a fast-idle mechanism, so if adjusting the screw on the throttle linkage didn't change the idle, it's probably stuck on high-idle with the choke engaged. I cover basic Weber tuning and choke adjustment here:

http://www.mightyram50.net/vbulletin...ith-weber-carb

Also verify the wire you hooked up to the choke is getting voltage at all times with the key in the Run position. If it isn't, you could just run a wire to it from the same terminal on your ignition coil's ballast resistor that has all the black+white-stripe wires connected to it, or use the same terminal you're using to power your electric fuel pump.

I don't think running hot or hard shifting of your auto trans would be related to the carb at all.

Hot running could be related to your ignition timing however; insufficient spark advance would run hotter, as later spark would result in less combustion energy going towards work (piston pushing), leaving more of that energy to be lost as heat. The temp gauge should normally read at around the midpoint or slightly below that when fully warmed up.