Need a dependable electric fuel pump - Carbole 42s died in less than two weeks

[pandemic326]

Did a Weber swap on my 88 2.0 and from what I could gather going to the electric fuel pump seemed to be the consensus. I realize I might of just gotten a dud but I bought a Carbole 42s. Took me a bit to get it installed so of course just outside my return time with Amazon but been running it almost two weeks without issue and then this morning just dead. I’ve reached out to Carbole regarding the 12 month warranty yo see what that is about but… I need a replacement and I need something dependable. Is the consensus to try again or do you all have recommendations on something else to try? Seems everything between the different manufacturers looks like the exact same part just rebranded with a different paint job. Though I do see different ratings on the GPH so maybe they are really different. Hoping to get some input so I don’t get stuck out again because the pump decides to take a dump.

[SubGothius]

I've always favored the Carter P90091, never had any issues with those or their similar predecessor versions. Native PSI is perfect for Webers, and the "gerotor" design delivers smooth flow, no need for any pressure regulator.

I found a good place to mount it was on the support rail across the front of the fuel tank on my longbed, not sure if shortbeds have a similar arrangement:

[pandemic326]

Any issues if the pump isn’t 100% below the tank itself?

[SubGothius]

No issues with pump mounting height AFAIK, think mine sits at roughly the midpoint of the tank. Theoretically you could even put it underhood, but it's best to put it as close to the tank and as low as practical. That helps ensure the tank-to-pump line remains primed with fuel most of the time and, even if it drains dry somehow, minimizes how much time the pump would try to pull an air vacuum until fuel reaches it. BTW, in case you wanted to try mounting it vertically somewhere, I'd put it intake end down, output end up.

[pandemic326]

Really appreciate that info and sorry for my delay. Ordered one and will be here tomorrow. Should be able to install this weekend. Carbole is also replacing my bad one under warranty free of charge so might make a little transfer pump out of it.

[Lil Red]

How did the pump work out for you? I have been looking to get a electric fuel pump looking at getting this one.

[Lil Red]

Just noticed you are down the street. ��

[pandemic326]

So far loving the carter. Also went with a carter oil pressure safety switch. Was chasing a gremlin with the pump getting power then not. Then not cutting off when the truck did etc and ended up being two faulty Napa units back to back. Perhaps I just always get bad napa electrical components so not sure why I keep giving them a chance as not the first time their stuff as sent me on a goose chase. But since replacing that with a carter unit it has been working exactly as expected! In terms of reported noise I can’t say the carter is any louder than the Carbole as some others have reported. Could be my hearing though.

[pandemic326]

New question for anyone. Having a problem with my relay clicking like a machine gun but the truck is running. Went ahead and wired around the oil pressure safety switch to rule it out but same behavior. So now I am questioning where I am getting my ignition power source from. I wired a lead to a stud on the coil. Guessing that was a no no? Where do you all connect to?

[camoit]

Don’t use the coil power. There’s a dropping resister before the coil. It drops the voltage to 9VDC @ idle. Do to the fuse box and get power there. Use a piggy back tap if needed.

[SubGothius]

The "relay clicking like a machine gun" sounds like it's being triggered in time with the coil spark, rather than getting constant power whenever the key is on.

You can use coil-adjacent wiring to trigger the relay, but not connected to the coil itself nor the coil-connected end of the ballast resistor. The opposite end of the ballast (with all the black+white-stripe wires connected to it) can trigger the relay, via an oil pressure safety switch if you wish. Power to the pump (switched via the relay) should come directly off the battery (+) terminal.

Relays are typically marked with industry-standard (ISO) terminal numbering, which should be hooked up like so:

85: To ground;
86: Trigger power (e.g., from the non-coil end of the ballast resistor), can route this wire thru oil-pressure safety switch if you wish;
30: Power from battery (+) terminal (recommend having a 10A inline fuse on this wire);
87: Power to pump;
87a: (if present) Not used;
87b: Power to electric choke (if not present, use 87 for both pump and choke).

85 and 86 are the trigger/switching circuit; you can swap these wires around if that makes for easier/tidier wire routing.

30 and 87 are the main power/switched circuit.
87a is a NC (normally closed) terminal that receives power from 30 when the relay is at rest (thus not used in this case).
87 (and 87b if present) is a NO (normally open) terminal that receives power from 30 when the relay is triggered On.
Relays typically have an 87a or an 87b or neither, but not both.

[pandemic326]

Thanks everyone. Just moved the wire after using a voltmeter to confirm voltage rather than just a test light and things are working great. Really appreciate it as always!

[Lil Red]

Did you use a fuel pressure gauge using the carter? At start up I have 3lbs of pressure after the truck warms up I have maybe 1/2lb of pressure.
Pump is running and not hot. I removed the stock filter just to check same deal??? I have used electric fuel pumps before and they will pump and then stop when the pressure is built up. Is this pump suppose to continuously run it never cuts off? Not familiar with it, that is why am asking? Any info would be helpful.

[SubGothius]

AFAICT the Carter P90091 pump runs continuously and probably just regulates pressure with a built-in relief valve that diverts excess pressure back to the intake end.

On another car running that pump I'd added an inline pressure gauge on a Tee off the supply line to the carb, can't say I've noticed any pressure drop there. Make sure your gauge points off sideways rather than straight up, as the latter mounting could trap an air pocket that may result in odd readings. Did you plumb in a return line, or is it just dead-ended at the carb?

Anyway, Webers don't need any pressure, just adequate flow to keep the float bowl primed. Max. pressure spec is just to avoid forcing fuel past the needle valve when the float should be holding it closed at full-bowl.

[Lil Red]

I left the stock fuel filter in place. Came from the stock fuel filter fuel filter to the filter included with the pump to pump to stock metal fuel line (that use to feed mechanical pump) straight to a gauge with about 2 in of hose then weber carb. I just capped of the old return line.

I was running the mechanical pump to a holley fuel pressure regulator with gauge set regulator at 2 1/2 to 3 lbs. truck started acting funny no performance backfiring through intake noticed fuel pressure was really low after truck got hot. Bypassed regulator went straight to carb gauge inline still no fuel pressure truck would run but if you ran it 2500rpm it would popback like starving for gas. I have read in 2 or 3 threads that the mechanical pump would eventually fail so I figured that is what happened and I added the electric Carter.

Do you have a stick of dynamite??

Lost

[Fingers]

Many, many moons ago, I had an 80's f-150 that I upgraded from an I-6 to a 302. Started with a Carbole 42s, it died in less than a week. Had it warrantied, died again. Guy at Checkers (showing my age) said "they weren't made for that purpose". Went to Carquest (age, again) and got the Carter. Never had a problem again.

When I do my Weber swap, I'll be going with a Carter. And adding a regulator for why not's sake.