a few questions

[ma3600vz]

so I have figured out that I have a 2nd gen ram 50 it is 4x4 with a 2.4l and the data plate shows that it was not swaped.

1 what one should I get https://www.amazon.com/Pick-ups-Plym...s%2C122&sr=8-4 or https://www.amazon.com/Dodge-Arrow-1...%2C155&sr=8-10 or should I get both

2 the fan shroud and mechanical fan and clutch are gone and there is a small electric fan mounted to the radiator is this okay or bad?
do I have the km132 or km145 transmission any idea what my gear ratio is and what is the low range ratio on the t-case?

3 truck has a pop out sun roof was this a dealer option or aftermarket?

4 what do I need to do to move the rear end from on top of the leaf springs to the under them?

5 did these trucks come with sliding rear windows? if so I would like to find one

6 this is broke on my truck is this the right one? https://www.ebay.com/itm/37488001407...Bk9SR_zetLjnYg I also might need one of these is it right? https://www.ebay.com/itm/36437766126...Cclp%3A4429486

[ma3600vz]

I have read while doing a search online that of all the ram 50s that were made only 2000 were 4x4 dose this sound right? I saw it here see post #10 https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/ho...0-31s.1421515/

[FMS88]

What year is the truck? (The plate or sticker low on the driver's door post should show a manufacture date along with the VIN #.) Also is it a regular cab, extended cab or long body, manual or auto trans? Depending on the year, trans and body style, the answers to some of your questions above may vary. For instance and related to question #2, if it's a manual 1989 or older, it has the 2.6L engine and a KM145 trans. If a 1990 or newer with the 2.4l, it has the V5MT1 manual trans.

Regarding the other questions, the step-by-step Haynes manual is good if you're new to the truck or wrenching in general. Don't know about the Chiltons. Another option is to find the two-volume factory service manual. It is year-specific and has illustrations and diagrams not included in the Haynes guide. The FSM assumes basic repair steps but includes details and whole sections (like trans repair), that the Haynes doesn't touch. Both the Haynes and factory manuals are on eBay for less than on Amazon. A third option is to use the Tech/Manuals section of this forum, but you must donate first to get access. (It's well worth it.)

If the fan was properly installed and of sufficient CFM, it should be fine and some on the forum consider the conversion a definite upgrade.

Not sure about the sunroof, but the rear slider was a dealer option, and both were available on the aftermarket. Generic sliders might still be out there. Otherwise a wrecking yard will be the only source.

If the truck has a 14-pin combination switch connector, the one you referenced should work. However, one forum member found them to be cheaply constructed. Don't know about the ignition switch or the rear axle mod, but perhaps another member can help you with those.

[ma3600vz]

thanks I think it is a 90 or 91 it is a 2.4 5 speed 4x4

[ma3600vz]

thanks I think it is a 90 or 91 it is a 2.4 5 speed 4x4

regular cab short bed

[FMS88]

regular cab short bed

Thanks. I have a 1991 factory manual and looks like the 4G64 2.4L was only available in the regular cab. The manual trans code is V5MT1. The transfer case ratios are 1.000 (High) and 1.925 (Low). The diff ratio is 4.222. The trans ID and the final drive ratio are also stamped on a plate riveted to the firewall to the left of the valve cover.

[ma3600vz]

thanks for the info

[SubGothius]

Those column stalk cluster photos show only 2 speeds on the wiper stalk, no position for intermittent if your truck has that feature.

Those ignition lock photos show a button to release the key, not sure if any of our trucks had that, but if not, could be an impediment to installation if there's no way to remove and disable that captive-key function. There's some other odd contours on that lock assembly as well, not sure if those would pose any interference.

If your key is turning fine, and it's just the electrical functions of it giving you trouble, you don't need to replace the entire lock assembly; you can just buy a new ignition switch that fits into the lock assembly opposite from the key cylinder, and swap that out of your existing lock assembly without even removing it from the column.

Even if your key is balky, it might do wonders to just thoroughly flush out the key cylinder with some Brakleen spray, then relube it with silicone spray or any other lock-suitable lube you prefer. In this case, you might want to remove the lock assembly for cleaning/lubing, so you can easily insert/rotate/remove the key repeatedly while flushing and then lubing the cylinder, then reinstall it. Use a Dremel to cut slots in the 2 breakaway security bolts that hold it to the column, then you can just use a flathead screwdriver to unscrew them.

[ma3600vz]

thanks for the reply 2 days ago I went to check it out the steering column cover are not so I am thinking that some thing is not right. the guy we got the truck from was not around and to give us the title however the truck was open so I checked it out needs a lot of work before I even think about upgrades and mods

[Fingers]

Switching the axle to the other side of the springs is certainly a task. Cut off the spring perches from the axle and weld them on the other side of the axle, hoping you have them spot on so it doesn't try to throw you in the ditch at high speed. Then you'd have to extend the brake line(s) and longer shocks. Gotta consider driveshaft geometry and length. I'm not sure about 2nd gen, my 1st gen reg cab SB has a single-piece shaft. Would it pull out of the trans at full droop if you relocated the axle? Then what about the front? You can crank the torsion bars only so far before you hit the max travel of the control arms and alignment issues.

If you really want to lift it high, maybe axles and springs from a Jeep might be less complicated. Slightly.

[ma3600vz]

yeah I am do not know how I am going to go about lifting it I want to run 33s maybe 35s on 15x10s maybe 15x12s I have lots of thinking/planing to do while I try to fix every thing that is broke/overdo for service once I get it mechanically 100% functionality 100% again then the real fun starts